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Just outside Edinburgh, Scotland.

@@epfvs3527 Thanks.

Yes the owner is continuing to use the MDS 40. The MDS 40 has been problematical. On the positive side, it always starts easily with an electric starter. Difficulties are many and varied. Issues we have encountered. 1.) Unable to achieve a slow idle so aircraft moves on runway unless held (no steerable nosewheel on this aircraft). 2.) Unable to cut engine from transmitter. 3.) No increase in engine revs beyond half throttle. Happens sometimes, probably depending on mixture. 4.) Too rich when idling. Best to open throttle first and close to clear throat before attempting take-off. Once in air okay. 5.) Both slow and fast idle needles are very sensitive. The situation has improved over time after the engine got some time on it. Switching to an Enya #3 glow plug helped. The engine can now achieve a slow idle and the other problems are mostly solved with a good high speed needle setting. All the issues can be blamed on a poorly set up carburetor. Improvement was achieved by leaning out the low speed needle but very sensitive. Having thought we had it solved, we recently had a cold day and had to adjust the high speed needle. Three dead sticks (2 on runway) before a full length flight. The needle has to be within a few clicks. The bottom line is that it is possible to use successfully but tricky to set up. I handed a Super Tigre 40 carburetor to the owner last Friday so we shall see what that does for the engine. I hope it fits.

@@epfvs3527 I'd encourage him to buy another engine. Anything except an MDS or a Leo unless he likes mechanical obstinacy!

I flew the maiden and took the video but the plane was actually built by Harry. He was on the buddy box. Harry actually worked as ground crew on the Folland Gnat so it has a special place in his heart. The battery capacity was 3900mAh. The first flight was 1 minute 45 sec and the second was 3min 45 sec. Harry has now changed to a 4500mAh 4S battery but we have not flown yet with that battery. At the field we did not know the recommended deflections to check so don't blame Tony Nijhuis for the very twitchy ailerons. I will post an update after the next flight, hopefully with the results of the 4500mAh battery and the reason for the twitchy ailerons.

@@epfvs3527 wow it's amazing a 33" EDF jet can fly with such a large battery. Thanks for the information.

Not actually my plane but I have emailed the owner to try and get the information. As I recall the rudders were made from the original tailplane by cutting it in half. Height would therefore be half the tailplane.

I have some information from the designer. Booms are 18 inches long and made from wooden arrow shafts. Distance apart is 11 inches. Rudders are made from original horizontal tail and are 4.5 inches above shaft and 1.25 inches below. Centre of gravity is 2 inches from leading edge.

Gary you certainly can program in flaperons if you want to. You need to wire each servo to a separate receiver channel. The owner has not tried it on this model because he did not feel it was necessary. The ailerons on this model are towards the wing tips so you want to be a little careful. Increasing the camber on the wingtip may make the tip more likely to stall before the root of the wing resulting in a tip stall. Try flying slow and high first with flaperons on. You may also be interested in this mod ruclips.net/video/dwmrE66LYR8/видео.html

From the pilot/owner. I think the crash was caused by a faulty Y-cable connecting the aileron servos. I flew it recently and one of the ailerons stopped working completely. At home I discovered that the one of the Y-cable sockets has an intermittent connection on the white wire, perhaps a faulty crimp. I now suspect the crash was caused by the aileron freezing in mid-air in a non-neutral position which caused the plane to roll into the ground.

@@epfvs3527 that's too bad.....at least you figured out what caused it......

Yes I printed the parts myself on a Creality Ender 3. The wing is made from 8 sections superglued together. The white band represents one of the sections. The filament runs from the front to the back of the wing, parallel to the fuselage. On the fuselage the filament runs parallel to the wing leading edge and is made of many sections glued together. I notice the thingiverse link I used to download the files no longer works but here are a couple of alternative links. If you follow the links there are more pictures of how it is constructed. cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/das-liddle-stik aerofred.com/details.php?image_id=99742

@@epfvs3527 Thank you for your response. I have more questions. What nozzle size did you use? Did you use regular pla or lw pla? Did you print at normal speed or slow it down? What did you find to ensure good bed adhesion? Appreciate your help.

@@markfernandes8623 Nozzle size 0.4mm, eSun PLA + Fire Engine Red. It was a while ago now but I think it was printed at normal speed. I used the standard Creality Ender 3 printer bed which is a semi flexible slightly textured surface with a heated bed. No problem sticking to the bed but the front and back of the wing do tend to curl slightly meaning that when you try to join them you can end up with a slight gap at the leading or trailing edge. I included the optional carbon fibre spar so no worries about the strength. I edited the downloaded gcode files to change the retraction values to suit my printer rather than re-slicing with Cura. I don't think this plane is suitable for LW-PLA. I have printed a LW-PLA plane here ruclips.net/video/lJsJhASYdHs/видео.html and you can also see the equivalent PLA plane here ruclips.net/video/lxSCbQTPT5A/видео.html.

@@epfvs3527 Thanks for your reply. Noted with interest. Am curious about the wing spar. Do you know of a link for the exact requirement?

@@markfernandes8623 Listed in the readme.txt file in the download as 40cm of 10mm diameter carbon fiber tube (optional). Note that it does not go the full length of the wing. The first two innermost wing sections are printed with a cylindrical tube that the tube slides into.

Fortunately I have the natural LW-PLA but I painted it. I am currently re-printing the wing and will avoid painting it. I suspect that will be insufficient on its own so in addition I am also intending to fill the wing with expanding foam. The foam is intended to do several things. First it will provide some structure to prevent the wing warping, secondly although foam is a good insulator it will provide some kind of heatsink. The foam does add weight. The Spitfire L3 wing in LW-PLA is 12g, PLA 23g and LW-PLA with foam is 18g. I may be able to avoid the carbon strip that I used on the original wing due to the foam and get a bit of weight back. I'm testing parts right now waiting for the sun to come out. Meanwhile the original is still flyable I think.

@@epfvs3527 In my case, the lw-pla wings were contracting and wavy in the sun, so filling them with expanding bubbles seems like a good idea. The idea of not concentrating heat is also good. Thank you!

Yes the same problem. I believe it is caused by the internal rib structure being cooler than the outer skin so the outer skin expands and has nowhere to go except by forming dimples or waves.

@@epfvs3527 That explanation makes sense. To fill it with expanding foam may be a good idea , but since it becomes heavy, it may be better to completely remove the ribs. The following URL idea. www.thingiverse.com/thing:3558276 Wings are fixed only “by pressure”.....

Yes no motor. This one (regular PLA) needs a good hill and a bit of wind. The LW-PLA version here ruclips.net/video/lJsJhASYdHs/видео.html is much better in lighter winds. LW-PLA definitely solves the weight problem but it melts in the sun . The model ended up badly warped after one days flying. It will fly again but I have to wait for a cold day.

@@epfvs3527 Thank you for your reply. There really is no motor! excellent! It's hard to think of comparing with BF109F(not H) of 3Dlabprint printed by normal PLA.

epfvs I'm doing exactly the same thing during the lock-down. I got it for a price I couldn't refuse. An untouched Balsacraft Sea Fury kit. I took the video but the one in the video belongs to the guy you see flying it, not me. It does seem to fly well. After I get it built we will have two flying at our flying field.

@@epfvs3527 Great to here that. The wing skins are together & the central wing part is taking shape. It won't be long now (so far so good). Have fun!

There were actually two pilots involved. The less experienced pilot took off but the more experienced pilot took over for the first landing. It was highly unusual for him to crash like that. His current theory is that it was something to do with the flight stabilizer and he is not used to flying with one. His recollection is that he put in a little down, nothing happened, then he put in a bit more and it went straight into the tarmac. Next time he has declared he is switching the stabiliser off before landing.