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@@perksperky3812 Glad the video was of help! Cheers 👍🏼

Hello, yes any handsaw from a hardware store should be fine, typically something like a Bahco prizecut are good value and can do good job.. hope that helps!

Thanks for that. I was advised to use a coping saw but it did not cope while I was using it.@@ambrantdiyseries2832

😂 why yes! 7 likes for you today Sir! 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼 - have a great day!

Thank you!

Much larger than this and you’d be replacing with full weather boards.. glad you found the video interesting otherwise 👍🏼😊

Hello, yes most definitely, you'd be wanting to use treated timber - cheers!

Excellent - Glad you found the video useful! :)

Hello, yes you're right, a lot of fillers can have this issue. It is best to look for one that has a little flexibility to move with the timber, and of course make sure you have a good primer and get that 3rd Coat on ;), it'll all help! - thanks for the comment.

Thank you!

Thank you!

Exactly!

Hello, thanks for the comment! - I'll do my best to explain what would be considered standard practice where we are : what we do is to nail the weatherboards through the thicker part lower down. However you need to know your overlap (the two weather grooves should line up best as possible), so lets say overlap is usually around 25mm (depends on the run). The nail should then be placed at around 30-35mm up so NOT to penetrate or cut through the top of the board below, so each board only has the one row of nails, allowing for expansion and contraction. Now sometimes to speed things up, you can mark your studs/framing on your bottom board... and then pin each board on using a brad gun, up where you said you'd secret nail, say every 2nd or 3rd stud.. then once they're all on, plumb up each marked stud line, and drill and nail off your boards using the correct nails. I hope that explains it and helps somewhat! :) Good luck and Cheers!

@@ambrantdiyseries2832 Could you do a follow-up video explaining this better? Thanks

Tom Thumb - yes that is true, great tip! 👍🏼

Hello!, you can do it either way if you have the room behind your facings/architraves.. You'd just want a wider jamb if you wanted to run them behind the facings, so you're not just cutting small wedges(if that makes sense). Otherwise 99% of the time I'd but them up to the facings... most weatherboard houses are done this way. Cheers! :)

@@ambrantdiyseries2832 cool thanks for the reply. I'm planning to remove the asbestos brick sheets that is covering weather boards on my house. This detail will be perfect for the Windows because they are sitting about 30mm more passed the weather boards. The only other solution was to remove the Windows and rip down the reveals 30mm and then reinstall which is much much more work. Cheers for saving me time

This guy could be wearing a dildo on his face for all I care, he showed me exactly what to do perfectly

Don Don - sure do, everything is primed with oil base before being top coated. Durability is the goal!

Hello! Thanks for your comment, fair enough too.. I guess I could've completed it with the final painting steps. Yes I would usually wait till the primer dried and then spot touch up the area with 1 top coat, then probably coat the entire board with another full coat also (often even include a 3rd coat myself). What I did actually end up doing in this instance, was stripped the whole wall back to primer/timber, re primed and changed our top coat colour to white, as we were changing the paint scheme for the whole house. I hope that answers your questions! :) thanks again!

@@ambrantdiyseries2832 THANKS FOR THE REPLY! I'm doing my weatherboards right now (prepping and painting), it's winter where I am. You said that in this instance you "stripped the whole wall back to primer/timber". Did you mean that you scraped it back, or sanded it back (electric sander), or did you use paint stripper? If you used paint stripper, what kind of paint stripper works? There are weatherboards of different ages on my house ( 90+ years old), so some of the boards MAY have originally been painted with oil paint. And there is lead paint in at least 1/2 of the boards [and all the exterior window frames, and doors and door frames :-( ] I've got a 'painter' helping me, and he just goes gung-ho with the electric sander (with no mask), and now there's lead paint chips & dust all over my driveway and garden. Cheers :

Ah excellent - always difficult this time of year being windy/wet prepping your house for paint.. we often try wait till September ourselves when it starts to warm up before we start prepping for paint.. but thats just personal preference. We also have a 90+ year old house - and as we've done each wall, we typically strip it right back using a combination of sander and scrapers (if the paint underneath seems gummy, and clogs the sand paper, we will scrape it back, sand to timber, then prime with oil based primer). Haven't used paint stripper in a long time myself, as I'm not a fan of such harsh chemicals/burns etc. With the lead paint, you'll definitely be wanting to use a mask/gloves, and sweep up as much from the ground if possible also.. Good luck with the painting! always nice seeing the end result :)

@@ambrantdiyseries2832 - Thanks and cheers!!

Thanks!

Cheers!

- Glad you found the video useful! Yes it’s definitely quicker to cut on the bench saw if you’re confident enough 👍🏼 cheers for the comment! 😊

@@ambrantdiyseries2832 lilies and the