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Which battery has longer cables in method A? Which has longer cables in method B? See, method B both batteries to have the same resistance in the cables for both batteries. That is why I made the video. This is not obvious. Most people will just automatically use method A but method B is much better and uses the same wires!

Hi, I have posted this video in replies I have made to people who think that I am full of crap. He using hard data because he has bluetooth built into his batteries. It is a great video. It shows the huge difference with the piggybacked set up compare to the others. He uses 3 batteries not 2 as I have shown. The difference with my version (method B) show a very close voltage drop with the middle battery. He uses buss bars if I remember in his 3rd trial. I personally feel that this video is being watched by DIYERs Bus Bars use about 2 times as many connections. The risk of poor connection is not worth the minimal voltage drop difference he was getting. However if you are using 3 batteries with very high currents, maybe bus bars are a better choice. For 2 batteries I never use them. For 4 batteries I always use bus bars. To answer your question of "why is it so?" the current always flow highest through wires with the least resistance. It also flows highest from great differences in voltage. The idea with a bus bar is to have all the cable the same length so the resistances with all be the same. Then, "if" the batteries are perfect, their will not be significant differences in their voltages, so the currents in and out of each individual battery with be the same. There are always minor variables but this gets everything as close as possible. It a piggyback system like my Method A, the first battery has very short wires with much lower resistance so it discharges high then the second. (of course they them slowly balance out). In Method 2, this simulates having the same length wires on a bus bar. However with three batteries it will not be quite as balanced. As I mentioned before, it is close enough in most cases and uses less connections and crimps which are the most common area of failure. I hope I answered your question. BTW, I made this video because I kept seeing people using Method A because they did not know the difference. Method B is just as easy! So I want to share this. Maybe I could do I video with 3 or 4 batteries and multiple shunts.

@@TravelingLightReflections thank you

Yeah, Martin has really stuck to their roots with their style and design. The 0XK Uke Life is Good is a real break from their original looking ukuleles though. www.martinguitar.com/ukuleles/0XK-Uke-Life-is-Good.html?cgid=ukuleles

Yeah and it looks so sweet!!

Hi Thanks for commenting. I am not sure how big your batteries are but is sounds like you are running pretty low currents. The higher the current the more important in is to use method to help balance the batteries. Anderson connectors are great! I use them too.

Thank you, I just wish I could play better.

Thank you. Us too. Every experience with a Harvest Host is different. Some are as expected and some are surprisingly unique.

Thanks for comparative relationship. I appreciate it.

I would recommend using Bus Bars, with all cables that are going from the bus bar to the batteries being the exact same length. Keep all your cables as short as possible too.

@@TravelingLightReflections Impact Battery has an article showing how to achieve "Perfectly Balanced Charging." Google: "How to Charge Lead Acid Marine and RV Batteries in Parallel"

From the details and quality of your post, you sound like a smart guy. So if you have two lithiums in series, check the current going into or out of each battery when wired as method A. If not look at You will see they are quite different and the difference becomes greater as the currents increase. This is especially true of lithium batteries because of their low resistance. Yes, they of course will balance out over time but.... the first battery's BMS will show it is charged before the second in line. For a simple change of wires, you can closely eliminate this. Yes, I firmly agree lead acid is old tech and the use of properly sized wires are extremely important. I made the video because this other wiring method is so simple to do, but so often overlooked. Thanks for your comment. I was emailed you original pre edited version and the edited one. I can see you put a lot of time and thoughtful thinking into it. Actually here is a link to a video that it better than mine with more detail and visual values to look at. I tries to make mine short and simple. I get a lot of negative one or 2 word replies from people who have no clue. Your reply had quality and informative info in it. I only disagree on some of it. Think you will enjoy this video. ruclips.net/video/_pQ0WjpSEa0/видео.htmlsi=5f3AITrXq593UIaD

anythnik what is really important is to use thick wires !!! connect batterys together like i do = differenz in curretn flows, on lithium batterys that is no problem coz a haft cycle is a half cycle for them not importand if battery 1 delivers 2-3% more current. if u use thick wires =lower esitaqnce= current matches more. same on inverter use thick wires = no resistance + no warm wires more and stable current. the thicknes of the used wires is more important then where u place it. the fats degration from lead acid you can not stop on any way also thick wires will not help that this stuf becomes fast usless.

I do not have a video about this. Make sure you use good copper cables. Do not to tempted to cheaper use Copper Clad Aluminum (CCA). Use wire the in the size recommended by the inverter manufacturer or larger. Run the Red positive cable directly from the battery to the inverter and be sure to put a fuse in it. Run the negative directly to the battery, unless you have a shunt. If you have a shunt, run the cable from the shunt to the inverter. If this is the case, be sure you cable running to the shunt is big enough to handle the loads on everything in the system. Windy Nation on Amazon is a company I get good caple from. There are many others. You can also but cable with lugs already crimped on. If you crimp your own like I do, I only but black cable. I wrap my positive cables with red electrical tape like a candy cane. This way I never run out of one color. If you have not crimped you own cables you may want to stick with buying cable with lug terminal already installed.

Just for a moment, rethink your thinking and include OHM's law in your thinking. Doe wire length affect resistance and current flow. Which battery has the longer cables? By how much? Does method B change how the cable length affects the batteries? Also think how easy it would be to arrange 2 batteries in this manner compared to method A. I am just sharing a concept that most people do not even realize and can easily change. If you really believe this is "poppycock", I am sorry I cannot help you.

I was thinking about what you said, about your membership fee being locked in. I looked into it. We also have a legacy, generation B membership with a locked price. They may not be offering this anymore. They always seem to have sales though. On your other point, I agree, all Harvest Hosts we have been to have been very welcoming. We have been to some were we were the one one and other where we had many other RVers. It is often another good opportunity to meet new people with things in common and chat about where we have been or are going.

Thanks. BTW we enjoyed the Alaska Bear videos on your channel!

Yeah, it makes things easier. I am using 4 12V 300Ah LiTime batteries in my RV power system. I would have gone 48V but I was using a 12V Victron Multiplus 3000VA inverter.

So...are you hinting at a review of a 48 volt inverter? Lol There's so much so all this. Especially for a 61 year old solar virgin!

@@TravelingLightReflections , wow, that is a pretty substantial size system, you must have many days of reserve battery capacity.

@@guydemers7607 I live all summer off grid with the system in a 28ft 5th wheel. During the winter we stay in RV parks and are usually plugged in. I built the system gradually, not intentionally. I upgraded RVs before we went to full time and then a month after. So, I reused system components as I designed the system for the next RV. I went with the 1200Ah because solar barely recharges the batteries when it is full grey cloud cover and we get next to nothing when its raining. There are times this lasts for over a week. We usually keep the inverter on 24/7. The inverter, Starlink and the 12V refrigerator use a lot of power. When we get under 50% we turn off the inverter at night. This saves a lot of energy. We have not used a generator in over 2 years. So, we are happy with the system. Check out my Power System Calculator. I developed this from 6 months of data collected from my Cerbo. It helps decide on both what size batteries and who many watts of solar you may needs. I broke the weather into 4 main categories. The biggest unknown is what your personal daily power use may be. You can play with that and plug in considerations. I added a section that tells how long you may need to run your generator to recharge at a reader's request. ruclips.net/video/mIKc81QS_Fw/видео.html

@@YouLookinAtMe-Bro I built my system with a 12V inverter because I did not expect to go as big as I did with the system in the end. If I had only know now what I did not know then!!!! I already spent the money on big copper. If I had gone with a 48 volt system I would have needed to install a drop down converter for the 12V RV part of my system. But....... Instead of 107mm2 wire (4/0) I could have used 1/4 of that size and gone with 27.6mm2 (3 awg) wire and saved a lot!!!!! I probably would have gone with 2awg because of the availability. Here is an article I wrote on my website that brings you through my story of trying to make coffee in the RV and how this brought me through many inverters as I upgraded RVs. I tried to put some humor into it. www.travelinglightreflections.com/choosing-how-to-power-you-rv

For parallel, as long as you run black (neg) to black (neg) and red (pos) to red pos it will work. However when possible arrange the batteries so you have the shortest cables connecting them. Also, try to make all red all black the same length if you can.

@@TravelingLightReflections thanks

nothing matters. the battery with the lower internal resistance delivers or draw more current. only look to use thick wires, anythink other is 100% not important.

@@ThomasNowicki-m5s ruclips.net/video/_pQ0WjpSEa0/видео.htmlsi=5f3AITrXq593UIaD

I don’t know what you are asking.

@@TravelingLightReflections how long will 100ah/200ah etc will last if my bulb,etc consumed a total of 600w or 500w or 800w. cause i dont know how much amp they are

I may have used the term source when I meant load. If so thank you for pointing this out. Being as we are talking about batteries where the current can flow both ways depending on whether it is being charged or being discharged. I wish I had put more emphasis on this.

@@vicman1288 I am at the Albuquerque Balloon Festival for 2 weeks so I closed the store because it is too hard to get out to ship. I will open it now. We leave in 2 days so it will not ship until the 16th. Thanks for reaching out. JT

Resistance is directly proportional to the length of a wire. In other words, a wire 2X as long as another will have 2x the resistance. If batteries are wired piggyback like in Method A the battery at the end will have a greater resistance and it will get/give less while being charged rapidly or used heavily. Of course, their voltages will even out over time as they equalize. However, the first battery will get charged fasted and will then charge the second. The same works in reverse. This put a higher workload and more abuse on the first battery. It will wear out faster than the other. If you are only using very low currents on these batteries then it will make little difference because the charge/discharge of each will keep up with each other. However, the faster/harder the batteries are used, the more important it is to try to keep a balance current flowing in and out of them. Look for other RUclips videos that explain this. The main idea is keeping all the batteries in your bank the same. You do not want one battery charging others nor do you want to pull more current from one than the others. Inevitably, they will all balance and equalize because they are in parallel. It is just that one will go bad before the others. You do not want a bad battery in your bank and you do not want to replace only one battery in a bank. Ideally you want them all to wear out equally at the same time and replace the entire bank at the same time.

@@TravelingLightReflections ok, generally well explained, but without measurement units, how many ohms is the greater resistance, how many amperes is the difference in currents, what is the difference in voltage in volts between the batteries, what is the voltage drop in volts due to the increased resistance... with a sufficiently thick wire that is well connected at a length of less than half a meter, negligible

I do not have bluetooth batteries but the guy in this linked video does. He did a great job of demonstrating the effect of 3 different ways to set up your batteries. Check it out. The drops are significant. Also, when using lithium batteries, they have a low voltage vs state of charge curve. This means that having a your voltage match during both charge and discharge is much more important than with a lead acid. In truth, you will never get all batteries to perfectly match, but you can get them as close as possible by setting them up correctly. For 3 batteries, you may even want to use bus bars. My only concern with bus bars is that people watching this video are likely DIYers. Bus bars use a lot more connections. These crimped connectors can introduce an area of high resistance if not done perfectly. Personally, for a 3 battery setup I use the way I showed in the video. (Less connections and closely balanced system) For a 4 battery setup I use bus bars. When the bank is built, I crank up the load and use an infrared thermometer to check ever connection for heat not matching the others. Yeah, watch this video. It is long but worth it. ruclips.net/video/_pQ0WjpSEa0/видео.htmlsi=uQw4q4-d-cchyZsH

@@TravelingLightReflections thanks, i made battery from 20 Lion18650 cells, 16 v, 20Ah, 5 in parallel connection and 4 of them in serial connection all are soldered, all are connected a little bit on wrong way but that was the easiest way, and every 6 months i open cover to check states of cells before charging and after and no bigger differences than 0.1V between the highest and the lowest voltage , no bms or any electronic device , just wires and cells

​@@makantahi3731 The chemistry on those cells are a little different from LiFePO4. I have made batteries from the small A123 size cells fr hobby use. I soldered a small 22ga wire off each connection and put them into a JST connector. I use this for balancing each cell in the battery. Astro Flight used to make a plug in balancer for this. Now hobby chargers often have them built in. Mine were up to 5Ah not 20Ah. What are you using these for?

@@fitzwilly7132 The longer wire has more resistance. In fact if one wire is twice as long as another identical wire it will have twice the resistance. But really don’t take my word. You do what you want.

@@kerrytodd3753 Do just a little research!! Your ignorance is sad. You are so quick to dismiss this but if you are willing to learn you will discover this is not only proven but it is a simple example of Ohm’s law.

@@TravelingLightReflections as is voltage drop, that’s what you’re seeing here. It’s not gonna make a .05 worth of difference at the end of the day. The batteries will always equalize to the same voltage. Battery one may work a little harder at first, but once it becomes discharged to the same voltage the electrons will begin flowing out of each battery at the same rate. So, ya, it does make a slight difference for a minute. But when you consider the amount of wire used, you won’t see a difference. But hook ‘em up however you wish, neither one is wrong but in most cases this ain’t gonna make a bit of real world difference. Carry on Mr ignorant

It's the best way to do it, but most people don't do it!

Your welcome. It is an easily overlooked installation error but so easily fixed.

I can not believe you wrote that comment. Do you think this is wrong? If so, do whatever you want. Or, do some research.

@@bivideo7 The problem is getting DIYers to understand how to arrange their parallel batteries so that the resistance is distributed better and each battery gets equally discharged under heavy loads. I see the first method too often. I looked at your videos, you are a smart guys so I am guessing you did not actually watch the video. Corrosion is not mentioned or a concern. You know enough about electricity to know that the first battery will get worked harder than the one with longer wires.

Thanks for the warning. What about placing a fuse on each battery terminal directly to prevent this worst case?

@@hansonic2938 - Good Question. You Tube is full of ideas. No matter what you do, remember that no two batteries are the same. Also remembeer that the battery is part of the charging system. All batteries have an unwanted internal resitance. Lithium Ion batteries have a low internal resistance. You connect batteries in series to up the voltage. When connected in parallel the current is upped. A fuse would add to the resistance and lower the power delivered by a small amount. It would also become part of the charging system. I have a 48 volt golf cart with 4 12 volt lead acid batteries. I use a BatteryMINDer Model 483CEC1 48 V 3 Amp charger that pulsates the batteries. It is temperaturre limited and can stay on the cart charging 24/7 if I wanted. It charges overnight. The original charging system was left intact. I personally do not like paralleling at all.

​@@titusllewelynhow about using a terminal block sir?

@@balsmit1 - It is not the type of connection. It is just not recommended to parallel batteries. To get more current batteries are connected in parallel. To get more voltage batteries are connected in series. That is in use. If they are charged in parallel the charger can not determine what is happening with each battery. Perhaps in a model plane or something it might be OK to use, but for charging the batteries need to be seperated.

That is when a balancer comes in to play

In some cases this works.

I am glad it was helpful for you. Thank you, I appreciate the feedback!

Do you have a clamp type amp meter? If you do, test it for yourself.

Theoretically you can connect these 2 different batteries in parallel. However, I would not recommend it. Others may say it is okay, but I personally would not recommend it.

@@TravelingLightReflections ok sir but I can use it through change over switch. This way I can use both the batteries one by one.

@@user-zy2kh2rp4m It is most important that you keep the voltages of all of the batteries in a parallel system equal. If by using a change over switch, you will be connecting and disconnecting the second battery, You will cause a rush of high current between any battery of unequal voltage. If you intend to always keep them isolated from each other and charge the 30Ah and 18Ah separate, you can use a change over switch. Just never connect them together when they have even slightly different voltages. With Lithium there could be a bit SOC difference with a slight voltage difference. This can cause a very high current enough to melt small cables.

@@TravelingLightReflections sir ji I will use both batteries separately. When I will switch the change over switch on mode A, scooty mains positive and negative will connect on battery 1(30ah). Then scooter will use battery 1 and charging also. When I will switch the change over switch on mode B, scooty mains positive and negative will connect on battery 2(18ah). Scooter will use and charge only 2nd battery. At that time 1st battery will be fully disconnected. What do you think sir about it?

@@user-zy2kh2rp4m Sounds good!

Please share where you found info stating it is not safe. I am very curious about this. I read the MSDS sheets and how not seen this.

Yes, I would agree that is probably so. Flight has so many great looking Travel series. Plus the sound and play well. Their images and colors are very attractive. I currently own a Magic Fluke Flea. They are very similar in design with the molded body and wood soundboard. It sounds better, is made the US, is made with the a wood neck but cost 4 to 8 times as much! For the price the Flight is a much better deal for a decent relatively inexpensive ukulele. He is the Flea I own. I will review this soon. magicfluke.com/Flea-Concert-Walnut-Ukulele-with-Cherry-Blossom-Design_p_558.html

.

If you look at the model number of the slide and reference that to Lipperts parts list it may tell you. The model number is behind the seal . I can not exactly remember where but I know there is a RUclips video that shows where to find it. That is how I found mine.

@@TravelingLightReflections I bought a set of high torque motors on Amazon for $130. Will replace eventually whether OEM is 300 or 500:1.

You can do this under two conditions. One, do not use the chassis as a ground. Run equal length wire Red positive as Black Negative. Because you are running parallel batteries you can should wire larger than your expected load and fuse the positive wire. Being as your system currently has a battery that already handles your load, your single battery under the bonnet, will still get a large percentage of your load, unless you run third wire as I showed in the diagram. In other words. The positive load wire from the positive of battery 1 and the negative load wire from the negative of battery 2. My concerns are, the cost of the wires, the voltage drop, any heat and protecting the wire from a short. Hence the fuse between the batteries. Is it possible to by a double size battery that with will fit in the bonnet? The cost may be more for the battery but it will save a lot on wiring, components and work. It will also be safer. So, yes this is possible but use GOOD wire, fuses and do not use the negative as ground. Determine your max current before you buy wires. This is one source to look at a good variety of batteries. www.litime.com/?ref=q12mEP4EB0Q2EJ

Yes, I only made it for 12V. I should make a note of that in the description. I can easily tweak it for a different voltage. What voltage do you want? I will also think about adding a voltage cell that will adjust the Ah cells to reflect that specified voltage. Adding the voltage variable may be easier than tweaking the sheet to a different voltage.

@@TravelingLightReflections I appreciate the publication of your prepared table and the fact that you are willing to improve it. Unfortunately, apart from yours, I have not yet found an effective calculator. In my humble opinion, 24, 48 Volts would be ideal, I specifically use a 96 Volt system (due to better efficiency and because I got access to such a UPS/Inverter), but I could not find such an option anywhere. If you could make 24, 48 and 96 Volt choices, I would appreciate it and I think your other visitors would too.

AH has nothing to do with voltage! The video is not about Watt hours nor is it about reserve capacity. It is about Amp Hours. Yes voltage is very important when specifically comparing the capacity different batteries and when using Watt hours. However, this video is not about Watt hours. It is imperative that new or beginning RVers, boaters, ect have a firm understand of Amp hours before they begin to understand about Watt hours. However, there are many people who do not understand Amp hours and many will never even need to understand Watts hours unless they are comparing power systems or calculating how much energy an appliance uses. 90% of battery users are only caring about how much energy is left in their battery, leaving their battery or being charged back into the battery. Amp hours is more than sufficient for these people . This video explains that and is for them. Reserve capacity used the 20 hr standard, today people are moving to lithium batteries which are measured in Amp hours and Watt hours. The capacity of lithium does not change to the extreme that lead acid does when put under heavy loads. The internal resistance is far less than lead acid. Also, shunt battery monitors are very accurate when measuring battery charger and discharge. BTW, If you care, the unit Ah is Amps X 1 hour.

@@TravelingLightReflections You need to revamp your definition of battery capacity - it has to do with stored energy - not amps x hours.

@@TheCSRTech I am not interested in arguing with you but I and the rest of the world will strongly disagree with you. Find any reputable source that will state that Amp Hours is NOT a measurement of Stored Electrical Energy. I have been using Ah to measure battery capacity for over 25 years. Did you learn some magically physical theory that no one else knows. Seriously though, where are you coming from? I am baffled at your confusion or stubbornness of this basic and common understanding. In case you have not noticed, I have spent time communicating with you and being respectful. Now you are wasting my time because you are unwilling to learn something or agree with a concept that I am an expert in. Here, I did the google search for you. Choose one! www.google.com/search?q=what+is+an+amp+hour&oq=what+is+an+amp+h&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUqBwgAEAAYgAQyBwgAEAAYgAQyBwgBEAAYgAQyBggCEEUYOTIHCAMQABiABDIHCAQQABiABDIHCAUQABiABDIGCAYQRRg8MgYIBxBFGDyoAgCwAgA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Thanks for your feedback and support. I use my Waterman as a beater uke that I will not be super upset about if something happens to it. We have quite a few different ukuleles that both my wife and I play. She is the banjolele player in the family though! I grew up listening to my father play the banjo so it's sound brings my happy feelings. I will be reviewing the Kala Dog Hair Concert Solid Mahogany very soon. It sounds as good as it looks. It is definitely not one I would subject to abuse though. kalabrand.com/collections/solid-doghair-mahogany/products/ka-sdh-c?variant=40812697649222

Your capacity should be at or very close to the rated capacity. Also, LiTime is a reputable company so they should definitely be at or very close to the rated capacity. What I am saying in the video (if you have only 1 230Ah battery) is that the concept of Amp Hours says you should be able to deliver 230A for 1 hour or 460 A for 1/2 hour or 115 hour for 2 hours. Being as you have 4 X 230 you could deliver 920A for 1 hour or 460A for 2 hours or 230A for 4 hour. To more directly answer your question. Your LiTime 230A battery has a 200A BMS. This limits each battery to only 200A. (the math still applies but your BMS limit each battery to 200A. So, if you only had 1 battery you could, at maximum deliver 200A but for 1.15 hours not 230 for 1 hour. This is 200A for1 hour and 9 minutes for a 230AH battery with a 200A BMS. However being as you have 4 230 Ah and assuming they are set us a 1S4P you can deliver a max of 800 amp in 1 hour and 9 minutes. If they are in series then the max current would be the maximum of the # of batteries in parallel. For example, if you have a 24V system of 2S2P you would be able to deliver 400A but a 24V. Please let me know if this makes sense. In summary, the BMS does not have anything to do with the battery capacity. One of it's jobs is limiting the current, going both in and out of the battery. The stated capacity is independent of the BMS performance. However. As you add batteries in parallel you can add the current limits of the BMSs. If you tell me you battery set up I can share more.

@@TravelingLightReflections Thank you for the detailed explanation. My batteries are in 4S for my Growatt 5000 ES. But no need to go any further, I get it now. I have 230Ah capacity, I just can't deliver it all in one hour because of the BMS limitation.

@@azycray4801 Yes exactly as you said about the battery's BMS limitation. Your system is 48V with 230 Ah of capacity. The next and better way to describe batteries is to use Watt Hours instead of Amp Hours. Where Amp Hours is good to discuss many aspects of battery usage it does not take the voltage into consideration. Watt Hours does. Watt Hours is the Amp Hours of a battery, multiplies by it's nominal voltage. For example: 230Ah X 12.8V = 2944 Wh. Or in you case, 230Ah X (12.8V X 4) = 11,776 Watt Hours. Another example of this is. someone can say to you, "I also have 230Ah". However if they have a 12V system, you both my have the same Amp Hours but you have 4X the Watt Hours. So... why did I make a video about Amp hours and not Watt Hours? Because understanding Amp Hours is very important and often misunderstood by beginners to battery systems. Also, it still very useful and finally, it needs to be understood before one can understand Watt Hours. I have an article about Watt Hours on my website. It is definitely time for me to make it into a video. www.travelinglightreflections.com/what-is-an-watt-hour-ah

The BMS takes care of the balancing among the cells that make up each battery.

I can give you a copy and you can add that if you want. I bet you can just expand the columns and the formats will follow. If not, being as you were going to create one yourself you can probably figure out how to adjust it to fit your needs. I am linking a version as Template/Preview. When you open it, click on Template. It will open a sheet without locked cells. You can edit this in any manner you want. docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1kW7hYQn1PQxSeNe7aN877LyxVme7FiH3ftYJT667ZaY/template/preview

@@TravelingLightReflections Again, thanks a lot I will try that first.

If you have a 2 battery setup with the batteries in parallel, then the inverter should be connected the same as any charger. Use method B. Regardless of whether the battery is being charged or discharged the connections should be the same. Throughout the batteries' life it will get an equal amount of charge as it get discharge. I hope I answered your question.

I have connected as the B...I was not sure but finally is the best way.also the chargers cables are connected as the B. Thanks a lot!!!!also I don't know if you can help batteries during day are full charge 13.8v as the panels produce power.with no loads and the 12v power inverter off at next morning controler shows 12.7v.batteries are 2x 12v gell deep cycle 150ah each connected parallel.any ideas?connections are ok charger is an mppt powmr 60a maximum

@@djperfecto1 Your batteries look like they are okay. The float voltage is also higher than the resting voltage. Your solar controller is correctly bringing the batteries up to 13.8 volts. When it shuts down the battery voltage settles down to it's resting voltage. For AGM the fully charged resting voltage can be between 12.7 and 12.85. It depends on the manufacturer and also on the whether there is any voltage drop in the device you are reading the voltage from. Regardless, from all that you have told me, your system is working fine.

Okay

Check out this power system interactive I created. It may help you predict how well you planned system will work. ruclips.net/video/mIKc81QS_Fw/видео.html

I agree and you are absolutely right watt hours are a much better and precise way to measure energy. However I made this video to be a simple as possible. An understanding of amp-hours is needed to understand watt-hours. I have an article on my website about watt-hours. www.travelinglightreflections.com/what-is-an-watt-hour-ah. I actually have a written version of this video too. Maybe I should make the watt-hour one into a video too. The battery world has slowly moved from Reserve Capacity to Amp Hours and now Watt Hours. Mostly because lithium has a different voltage than lead acid, it is import to compare using watt-hours. However, when we are reading a battery monitor to see the State of Charge (SOC), we use Amp-Hours. Thanks for your comment on this.

It can keep you from overloading one of the batteries.

@@TravelingLightReflections Nope, incorrect, try again.

Thank you for your well thought out and detailed expert response about this.

If you are building a lithium battery from lithium cells you need a Battery Management System (BMS) for each battery. This BMS will manage the cells contained in each battery, as a unit. This video is about batteries. All lithium batteries already have BMSs managing the current and voltage of the cells. No large lithium batteries are sold without BMSs. You can get small lithium batteries for model aircraft that do not have BMSs. The ones that do not have BMSs will have balancing leads with a JST connector. However, this video is about power system batteries.

It does. It actually makes a big difference. That is why I made the video.

As an auto elec, yes, it does make a difference.

wow Ai is doing it's job living loud with Andy

Dudes actually right I'm about to drop a video on this right now I actually killed one of my lifepo4 batteries because of this. Let them sit in the garage for a whole year connected the same way as in the original diagram not the second diagram(the way hes showing you to do it) and the one works great and the other one won't take a charge but I saw a video where you can jump start the one that doesn't take a charge with the one that is fully charged and it'll actually charge back up normally

I would love to know the reasoning behind it it wouldn't make any difference it makes total sense open up a lithium ion and I believe they're in seres.