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That's a good idea. Two regular bottle jacks are cheap. If you can find an inexpensive hollow bottle jack I would use that.

@barrydandrews I bought one for 150$ 20t. I use it for injectors, wheel bearings and bushing

The title of the video tells you what chemical to use - Aluminum Sulfate. I guess that's 3 minutes 15 seconds of your life that you won't get back!

Agreed. In this particular case, I obtained the Mercedes from an auto auction and it would seem routine maintenance was not something the previous owner was aware of.

@@barrydandrews It's a shame how these cars were treated by the previous owners. I obtained one that also was poorly maintained. It's amazing how these cars can still run and drive with so much wrong with them. I'm having to replace the timing chain in my om648 as it has stretched from dirty oil 8 degrees.

Yes, that will probably work too. I may make another video that shows this same engine pulled from a wrecking yard where someone has attempted to pull the injectors and has cracked the cover. In this case the engine is not in a car, not running and the injectors are stuck. So it is good to have different options to pull these injectors.

if i turn , the top part only loosens not the hole injector...

Over cleaner works but don't leave it in contact with aluminum for too long ...

ruclips.net/video/XwZOTf8vYhE/видео.html

You have never had a seized injector I guess. This particular vehicle was not that bad but on Mercedes CDI sometimes removing the injectors can be difficult. Other methods involve unscrewing the solenoid and threading in a rod but that usually requires an injector rebuild. eg. ruclips.net/video/4gJjywZTTJc/видео.html

Have you drilled all the way into the block? Removing the head is not too difficult and so you might consider doing that. At least you will be able to assess the problem better and hopefully achieve a better solution. To remove the remnant of a steel bolt that is surrounded by aluminum please look at my other video for a novel approach.

Tried that, a couple of times I actually lifted the entire front of the car by pulling on the injector. This way is better. The problem with a lot of pullers is that they have no solid surfaces to push against and this gentleman has come up with a brilliant option with those sockets and extensions.

Each bottle jack was labelled as 8 ton. Smaller jacks might works as well.

I find keeping the injectors intact and not unscrewing the tops is an overall better approach. You might need to test/recalibrate the injectors if you start pulling the tops off. The car had the "black death" when I acquired it so I don't know how long it was running like that.

I'm guessing a similar approach for the 2005 Sprinter should be possible and work well.

You may need to get creative if the 5th injector is stuck as access may be difficult.

Did you find a way to remove them?

@@berniemac8413 Bit the bullet, ordered the Cheap puller where you have to unscrew the top off the injector, bought new injectors to replace them with, didn't want to mess with having them cleaned, tested....all good now.

@@jpmorgen5726 ahhh okay. Where’s a good place to purchase replacement injector’s?

Try comparing to the other holes. Does that drill bit go in as far? If not, you probably have something in there.

@@barrydandrews Ok Barry, thanks for the comeback. Comparing bolt/drill bit drop there certainly is something in there. So..decided to bite the bullet and drill it out. Started with a 200mm long 2mm tungsten tip bit and got (turning slowly on drill speed) to full depth. Drilled all the way up to 3/16....then the bit broke (not the 12"). So i now have just the tip of a drill bit stuck in there, AND the original problem. The only thing i can think of it was some kind of bodged heli coil done by the previous owner. The car was awash with "Bodge jobs", and its taken me 2 years to work my way through them. Am stuck now between a rock and a hard place with the car, and this could well be the end of its days. I guess its a warning to everyone. Thanks for your help anyway.

@@bladerunner350 Sorry to hear that. For stripped threads without broken drill bits etc. this is a good solution: www.timesert.com/html/1610E2-note.html

If the drill bit is broken inside aluminum you might be able to use the technique in my other video: ruclips.net/video/NUPlGhuLHXo/видео.html

www.idparts.com/mercedes-injector-bolt-repair-kit-time-sert-om642-om648-om647-ts1610e2-1610e2-p-6653.html

I bench tested all six injectors - they were fine and so I reinstalled them.

@@barrydandrews how did you bench test them?

@@erikgreen9716 Search on eBay for "CR-C multifunction diesel common rail injector tester S60H Nozzle Validator". I used something like that.

Perhaps you did not watch the entire video where I show and use the slide hammer set. The whole point of this setup is to give an option for situations when injectors are VERY stuck. This can happen when the injectors are physically deformed from heat or in situations where the engine is not running and you do not have the benefit of engine heat to help loosen the injectors.

There is an o-ring (approx. diameter 6cm) and a rubber grommet (approx. diameter 1cm). I hope this helps. Cheers.

Yes, it does! Much appreciated. Cheers to you

Yes, this is the om648. We don't have the om613 in North America but I'm guessing the injectors would be similar with similar problems.

Yes, the point of making this video was to show a method that works when you have really stuck injectors. Injectors can be stuck for a number of different reasons. For example, the engine may have been removed from the vehicle and not running, or the injector bodies may be warped or cracked, etc. For this particular Mercedes E320, ALL of the injectors could have been removed with just the slide hammer. But I have encountered other cars with stuck injectors where every method failed except for the press I showed in this video. I am not trying to say that this is the best method that should be used in all situations. But when you run into that VERY stuck #1 injector in a 2004 Mercedes Sprinter, give this method a try and let me know how it goes!

Please get the engine heat soaked as much as possible and work fast so it does not cool too much before attempting to lift the injector. Every bit of help with this project will be necessary. Good luck!

Mon français n'est pas bon et je ne suis donc pas sûr de comprendre votre commentaire. Plusieurs fois, une approche à marteau coulissant fonctionnera surtout si le moteur est à la température de fonctionnement. Mais parfois, les injecteurs sont tellement bloqués qu'il est plus facile et plus rapide d'utiliser l'approche que j'ai montrée dans la vidéo. (Traduction gracieuseté de Google Translate). My French is not good and so I'm not sure I understand your comment. Many times a slide hammer approach will work especially if the engine is at operating temperature. But sometimes the injectors are so stuck that it is easier and faster to use the approach I showed in the video.

@@barrydandrews OK! I undestand the problem.

Yes, that approach often works. But sometimes the injectors are so stuck either due to injector damage or the engine is not running (maybe it was removed from the vehicle). In these cases it is much easier (and faster) to use the approach I showed in the video. In much less than the 2-3 hours you take to get the engine hot, the job is done!

Thank you for the compliment. I live in Northern California. Cheers.