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The lightbulb that was missing from the center console is supposed to have a small circuit board. That one is for the low fuel warning light and if you put a normal bulb holder in there the light will stay on all the time. You need a low fuel warning module. Or just leave the bulb out because the primitive technology that they used for this light is not up to par with modern stuff.

You don't line up the rotor to the physical location of cylinder#1, you line the rotor to the #1 spark plug wire on the distributor cap.

I just changed my lights to LED on my 81 vette. I had a problem with the check engine light staying on. I was told not to use an LED bulb for the check engine. Something about the older bulbs allowing it to have a complete circuit. I took out the LED bulb and the check engine light went off. Not sure if it’s just a coincidence or if it really worked.

Thanks for sharing. Once I’m running, I may take her ratty ass to a cars and coffee. Do you see ratty cars at these venues?

Nice to see it out on the road

You have to be one of the few who make a bigger mess than me working on their car. 😂

I believe you held the gasket upside down. Same shape, but the bolt holes won`t line up.

The fact that you have two C3’s and stay motivated, helps motivate me on my one C3. I am learning from your videos. Sometimes it’s what not to do. 😂

I'm sorry I was wrong after I got a better view, It is a double pumper. Looks good. Holley can be bugger to get adjusted

What you have is a dual fuel inlet with vacuum secondaries and the front bowl has the accelerator punp

Thank you for the information boss.

Looking forward to seeing how well it works

Needed to support motor with a jack, and a block of wood on the oil pan, otherwise your distributor will hit on the firewall. Possibly damaging the distributor or the firewall. Emergency brake cable is released by removing pressure on the adjustment area, then remove the pulley. Drop the tranny mount, tilt the motor back alittle bit, drop the tranny. Sry brother, i rebiuld vettes all the time. I've follow your channel, and others, giving advice where i can, i do not judge anybody, or anything. Already to many haters out there, and i don't need to be one. If ya need any help, just ask, I'll help any vette pilot out there to keep their vette on the road. I'm rebiulding the 74's t400 tranny right now. Complete rebiuld, bushing, seal... everything. Keep doing your thing, and I'll keep watching.

I used ceramic coated shorty headers on my 81 and 74 vettes. Long tube headers are not good on a C3 vette. They hang too low under the car, making speed bumps a nightmare. Also the ground wire with the starter wiring goes to the bottom bolt for the tranny to engine mount bolt, torqued to 25-30 ft lbs. According to my factory assembly manual. (ie.. 1974 assembly manual, L48 engine). With stock t400 tranny. But my 81 has it going to the same bolt on the stock t350 tranny. Also same location on my 86 C4 with 700R4 tranny. Red wire goes to main battery line, purple wire goes to s post, yellow wire goes to r post on starter. ( yellow if you have a coil system).

great video, what are the cons for using header wrap? are there any particular reasons as to why you might not choose to wrap your headers?

Comment just for effort The header wrap seems like a real PITA. You need an extra pair of hands

I had a major problem uploading this video. This was the sixth up load. One part got corrupted and deleted and then it said I didn't have permission to customize a thumbnail. That the Hell!! Anyway I hope it turned out ok, enjoy

Where do you buy this Front and Rear Bumper?

Better you than me brother.i wouldn't work own it for it the car

If I'm not mistaken those melted white things on your starter harness are fuse links to protect the rest of the cars wiring harness.

Thanks for stopping by...and thanks for including us in your video!

I do the same thing to remind myself, I need to buy certain things. When I can afford them of course.

I really dislike electrical work. I’m putting it off, but I can do that for so long.

I’m looking at doing something like Kilmat. Ounce you lay it down, how do you find the screw holes for the console pieces? Am I concerned about nothing?

You can get a new ignition switch from rock auto or some local parts store for around 20 to 30 buck . FYI Make sure it's a switch for a tilt steering column. Good luck ,Enjoy ypu content.

OMG! Stop using adjustable wrenches!

Yes the seats both have the handle on the same side. I believe there are some subtle differences between the two seats, but they can be mounted on both sides. The difference is that the "feet" (where the bolts mount) are slightly different. I have removed mine several times and probably mixed them up. But i saw a post on one of the forums that showed the differences. It doesn`t really matter though. Both seats can go on both sides.

Sounds like a steel belted tire.

Nice job overall. I have to admit some jealousy at how clean your car is underneath. My ‘70 is pretty ratty

Did you ever change motor mounts on that car?

I forgot an important step to mention I would follow and that is to crack the throttle up and down ever so slightly in the beginning to start them spinning. I believe camshaft break-in is the most important step because if all the machining was done to spec, everything else will conform to the mating surfaces in time. Sorry for the late thought on the subject. Thanks again. May God Bless.

Regarding camshaft break-in, here’s my thought. Please understand I’m a 60’s-90’s+ old school tech. So from what I have always gone by when breaking in a flat tapped camshaft is to insure the lifters were spinning and not stuck which can sometimes happen for several reasons. Not sure if you used it but, I used plenty of break-in lube on the camshaft and lifters prior to the installation and a cam button. Anyway, The valve covers would be off with oil clips on the rockers to prevent oil from spraying all over the place. The valve covers would be off as to visually determine that the lifters were spinning. If they weren’t spinning, you’d find out eventually. Just my take. Nice job! Thanks for posting. May God Bless.

Looks like an 80-82 front clip has been put on your 79. No problem except the nose is too low. Install the hood without latches and a floor jack under the bumper bar. Loosen the bolts to the bumper bar on the frame horns and raise the nose to get a nice hood gap and clearance for the fan at the top of the shroud. Sloppy hood hinges are also cause for a poor fitting hood. If they have any slop in them at all replace them. There are many tricks and procedures to installing and fitting a front clip on a Corvette and if it is not glued on the cowl properly it will never look right.

A few notes… Always disconnect the battery when doing wiring work. Especially under the hood. One good short and you can find yourself looking for a burnt fusible link. Not a fun task. Rubber compression fittings would be a great choice versus the nutserts. They work just as well but can be easily removed and there is no chance of damaging fiberglass. The hood light wires should follow the forward headlight light harness through the core support down by the frame rail and then up the hood. It would be a good idea to put a protective covering over those wires too. On ‘78 and ‘79 models the hood light ground wire simply runs to one of the hood prop bolts. Not sure on your year but maybe that’s why you have one bolt missing??? A nice LED bulb is a worthwhile choice as well. They don’t get hot, are brighter and consume fewer angry pixies which is nice if you have the hood open for long periods of time. For the radio you’ll need to have power to both the red 12v+ and the memory wire for the unit to work. Most all aftermarket head units are this way.

The rear calipers have two bleeders because they only have one channel in the lower end of the caliper between the two halves. The front calipers have one channel drilled in each end so they only need the one bleeder. Don`t know why they made the calipers like that. If you look at seal kits you will see that the front calipers have two small O-rings and the rear have only one because of this.

Just to let you know the alternator bracket you have is correct for a 81 model same as I have on my 81.You may have the wrong radiator hose.And FYI you have driver side brake light out. Safety First

Great job on the c3.

Congratulations on your first win with the 81. Makes all the hard work worth it. I to went to a small show this past weekend and got first place with my 81. Carry on ,enjoy your content.

Great to see you enjoying yourself with your family making great memories!

If not a slightly longer alt belt perhaps a little shorter - which ever one lowers the alt on the adjustment "arc" on the bracket.

would a slightly longer alt. belt lower the position of both the alternator and the belt and give you more space between the hose and the belt?

There is supposed to be small shield mounted on the alternator brace that protects the radiator hose. if you search for "77-81 alternator adjusting brace belt guide" you`ll find it. This will only work if the engine has the original accessory mounts. To me it seems like they might have been changed to the standard short water pump mounts and not the Corvette/heavy duty water pump accessory mounts. Hard to tell from the video.

I use to use the OEM donut from the big blocks manifold to pipe on the header collector

Core plugs not freeze plugs. Anyone with a boat in cold climates can tell you they don’t protect the block from cracking. The silver plugs tend to rust but fit tighter and thus are less likely to leak arounds the edges. The brass plugs, while pretty and don’t corrode, are more likely to leak around the edges. Some use a bit of RTV on the sides of the brass plugs. If you do that let it set up for 24 hours before adding coolant.

Hey good to hear from you. I was wondering where you had gotten off to. If you remember the hell of a time getting the water pump to fit well it was plastic and it had plastic dowels on it. The dowels broke off that's why I had to scrape that one. You won't believe how the "head leak" turns out, that should be out Friday.

Didn't see a video on asking opinion on head issue, I looked on the video history list, nothing there either Also the pin hole you was scraping off, there should be an alignment pin on both sides of the timing cover, keeps it centered properly and also keeps it straight for oil pan/gasket to be seated properly, Something you may have checked already, is the looseness of the timing chain, that looks like a stock one, most replacement would be a double roller chain. Shouldn't have much slack on either side of the chain As far as head bolts, is a rule of thumb to go back after its been run, and recheck torque, but I honestly never hear anyone ever doing that, Can't make fun of you either, i have a head bolt kicking my butt yet, gotta pull the head back off a second time on a 427, start over yet again.... It happens to be the back long bolt, that interfere with the firewall and brake booster, absolutely no room to install or remove that particular bolt, the bolt bottoms out before the head of the bolt is seated on the head casting, not sure if something is in the threads or something fell in that hole, its a pain in the a!! But gotta investigate it. Keep up the videos, I'll be watching the brake videos, once I get mine mobile with a need to stop, lol Nutty sportwagon guy

Looks great

I like the hood

Did anybody try to fix Minor car Paint issues using airbrush?

You’re welcome. Much easier that way.