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That's interesting, does your lens look the same apart from that?

Sorry I'm there now thanks.

@@ianryan7826 The tool is simply a tube and a cylinder shaped insert that allows for the thickness of the leather. My feeling is that the size of the leather cups might have been standard.

@@pixelvalve OK

I was working on a website (www.pixelvalve.com) a place where people could order these lens adapters, it was all going great until I got the news that Shapeways the firm I set this up with had filled for bankruptcy. So I am looking for another way to supply these. The adapter works great, btw, and I was going to make an update video but was kind of hoping I could find an alternative before anyone noticed.

@@pixelvalve Thanks for the info! And sorry for catching you like that, I really excited to use my Helios gain since my m42 camera broke 😅

Have you ever considered trying to adapt the Helios 40? I would understand if you wouldn't because it is rare and more expensive but I'd be in the market for it if such a thing could ever materialise

@@mrGOLDSACH I would consider making for any lens, at the moment I tend to do the ones I have access to and familiar with, but if there is more interest in certain lenses then I will look into it. I am still trying to set up an outlet for them, which is why there has been no activity on for a while.

That happened to me a long time ago with one of my first Tessars, it was a real puzzle because everything looked correct, all the parts in the right place, nothing missing. But I knew it was something I had done while putting it back together. Now, I can't remember if it was the helicoid that was threaded on the wrong, or if it was to do with the tightening of the locking ring that stops the helicoid coming out or in too far, it's a ring under the front bezel. I can't remember because it's been a long time, but it was something like that.

@@pixelvalveyeah its weird because I didn't touch the helicoid and even the aperture spring I didn't remove. You can actually leave the spring in while assembling the aperture blades and accessories with a bit of patience. Looks like I'll have to pull it apart and maybe go over your video. The funny thing is I disassembled and assembled it yesterday then found your video today. Going over your video it looked like I'd done it correctly. I'm dying to work out why it's not focusing correctly lol. Wish me luck!

I agree, I just didn't have a big enough room for infinity focus.

I would guess it's not always economically viable to repair vintage lenses as a service. I would base everything on GBP30 per hour labour, and imagine some problems could easily cost more to fix than the cost of a new lens. If you lived next door to me, I would say, I will have a look at it, but it's not so easy to do that online.

@@pixelvalve I simply cant find anyone here in the States or maybe I am not looking in the right places. I can buy another lens on eBay but chances are most of them need service anyway.

@@132indo Have you tried facebook groups, they are the best place to find local lens repair. It would cost a fortune to send them to the UK

I would say that is correct, because although my Nikon DSLR doesn't have DOF preview I often find the manual focus dot in the viewfinder needs more light to work, so I do tend to open wide, focus, then stop down if I am indoors, or in low light.

Yes, It isn't something I look forward to doing, I have done it two or three times before it's a lot of effort, but can be rewarding.

You will love it, it's a brilliant lens..

Unfortunately, this particular conversion won't fit the 44m-7. The 44-2 is constructed quite differently to the 44m range. Its mounting design is probably unique, but my suspicion is that there is a good chance the 44m range of lenses could be using the same body.

The best way to get notified is by subscribing to this channel and hitting the bell icon. I will post all updates here first, and although there may be other videos in-between that may, or may not, be relevant, it shouldn't be too inconvenient because I don't produce videos frequently enough to flood you with notifications.

That's very kind of you thanks, but I have the zebra version as you have seen, and I will be making an adapter for it at some point.

I am working on it, it takes ages to write up instructions, but the site will be up on www.pixelvalve.com soon. In the meantime, you can get the adapters from www.shapeways.com/shops/pixelvalve

Vous pouvez l'obtenir sur eBay ou Amazon, mais je ne sais pas où vous pouvez l'obtenir localement. Il existera également des produits alternatifs appelés composés à friction.

I have the black version of the 35mm, but haven't had the zebra version. I am certain the lens should not sop down when you move the focus, there must be something interrupting the mechanism, It's not a fault I have seen before, I would start by removing the back and looking to see what is happening while moving the focus back and forth.

@@pixelvalve Honestly, that's what I thought, based on the fact that they are originally still photography optics, the diaphragm was step by step, precisely with the declick of the diaphragm there shouldn't be any problem. I'm already having it reviewed and I hope they correct that error. Thank you very much for your time and response!

Opening the main front element is a pain, you can twist off the plastic tube that holds the front element, but you will notice you can't take out the glass without cutting the plastic. I cut the inside plastic seal, removed the glass and then after cleaning the glass I placed it back in and used casting resin or epoxy resin to reseal the glass. I would say, my attempt failed to set the glass back properly.

I haven't come across the start bayonet. But assuming the Helios lens is the same and the only difference is the mount, theoretically you should be able to swap the parts and it should work.

www.shapeways.com/shops/pixelvalve It will be available on Shapeways shop, I am putting a website together that will link to this shop, but the actual shop page does already exist, and I will paste the link below, the shop doesn't currently have the Helios, but it will do soon. www.shapeways.com/shops/pixelvalve

Its a nice find.

@@pixelvalve hope some one thinks so... have no use for it personally so putting up for sale. :)

@@THRobinson I'd be interested, let me know

@@mlb6d9 in Canada ,not sure your location

@@THRobinson Denver, CO

No, this wouldn't fit the 44M, but at some point I will look into making a 44M.

I did rebuild a black Tessar and no issues. It's the zebra one that seem to be difficult but I think the build quality of the zebras is a bit better.

The electrical charge thing you mentioned seems to be much worse on the thorium version Pancolars. Hellish to remove dust or lint fragments. I have found that cotton buds still leave residue even if the water is pure. Cotton pads are actually better. The ones used for makeup application. Then a wipe with a very clean micro fibre cloth to remove any remaining residue. Fixing mechanical issues is the easy bit. Perfectly cleaning the elements is the difficult job.

I try to stay away from radioactive lenses, but I don't feel comfortable opening them up and handling the elements. I did wonder about comparing the image quality, that would be interesting. I agree the helicoids are a pain, I accidentally took one out of a zebra Tessar once, it wasn't fun, but I have done a few since then and like you found marking them isn’t helpful, the best way I found was to think of it like a ratchet and turn the helicoid maybe counterclockwise in small increments feeling it slip on the gear, and then reversing your twist to turn maybe clockwise at each click, to see if it will thread. I once spent all day cleaning glass on a lens, I just aim for satisfactory rather than perfect these days.

The manufacturer does offer several metal options, including gold, but it becomes silly expensive.

@pixelvalve thanks for the heads up, I was just wondering if a sleek silver or matte black version would be possible, good to know it is! (if you can pay up lol)

They are sold out at the moment, sorry.

@@pixelvalve no worries can you send me the site or email for future orders when they restock?

@@awaremel I will put updates on this channel whenever they become available again, and I wrote an instructable for anyone that wants to make their own, so you might find other people are also making / selling them. www.instructables.com/Copper-Coil-Voronoi-Lamp-B22-Bayonet/

@@pixelvalve I'll gladly pay someone to make me one 🤞🏼

@@awaremel Sorry, but at the moment, I am deep into another project, I know a few people who actually own one of these lamps and I did ask them today if they wanted to sell, but unfortunately neither of them were did.

I knew I would forget, thanks for reminding me, 😀 www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333179984603?var=542196649201

Thanks and sorry about the long wait.

I honestly don't know, because I haven't had a 2.8/20, but there is always a small chance it could fit, although I doubt it, from my experience with these lenses so far, each one is different, and it's odd because it would be so much easier for a manufacturer to have interchangeable parts.

@@pixelvalveThanks. That's pretty much what I thought.

Yes there is, I have a zebra Pancolar and will be making an adapter for it soon, then I will make a black version. They will be available at some point. All updates will be on this RUclips channel.

Doing God's work here, will be eagerly waiting

That's so funny😄 I'm glad I could help

Thanks, I do have a zebra Pancolar that needs some work, so I probably will video the repair for anyone interested at some point in time.

@@pixelvalve Oh that would be wonderful - I may hang on for that as I'm not that experience and I really don't want to balls it up. Thanks again for the way you really take the time on these.

What kind of powder do you use? It'd have to be some special hi-temp kind right?

It's been a long time, but if I remember correctly, the whole front lens assembly comes off at full zoom if you twist it and pull it, I can't remember if it's clockwise or anticlockwise, but it t wasn't difficult, it was a little tricky putting it back into the correct thread after but once you have it off it is easy to remove and reinsert because you can see how it fits, I marked the slide with a marker. The really difficult part was separating the two front glass elements that are plastic moulded in place.

Were you able to get it off? I’m trying to figure it out as well.

Hice esto en FreeCAD, fue bastante fácil de hacer. Puedes descargarlo gratis desde Thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4919530