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This is very helpful. Thank you for unpacking this mystery.

Those two application methods were kept separate.

Best of luck on the box Ethan!

I don't see why not. Practicing on a test piece is always advised.

No harm done if finish is not thinned. The application is much easier and results are less maintenance however, if thinned.

That is generally referred to a as a "detail gun". I chose this due to the smaller size I was spraying. This one was also not technically an HVLP but running right off the compressor.

I have not...tell me more.

It is surprising, how long the delay time is.

Difficult one to answer due to what your desired intensity is. 1:1 is an easy place to start, but you may wish to have the color more translucent or more on the grey scale. If that's the case, you will have to experiment until you find the correct shade of black.

You hit on the right stuff for making a darkening agent, acid to expedite the oxidation of the steel is one of the best solutions.

It will. You are asking because of the uneven absorption issues found in coloring most coniferous woods. You may have to apply a few coats to achieve the look you're after or seal the wood with shellac or "wood conditioning" product, but it will adhere and create a consistent look.

Hello Giles. I have a Rikon 18". It's a good machine for the money. I would probably have complaints about it if I used it to make veneers. All things considered, it has been a good addition to the shop. My next purchase will be an additional 2,000 SF of shop space. Thanks for watching!

@@JeremyACox thanks Jeremy for replying what bandsaw do you recommend for hardwood such as oak etc

Janiece, thanks for the feedback. I have recently started using a microphone to make the experience better.

Jim, I apologize for the poor audio on these videos. I have started using a microphone to avoid further difficulties.

@@JeremyACox the audio sounds fine to me

Bearlady5, It really depends on the look you are going for...There is no degradation of adhesion of effect if diluted significantly. Continue to dilute (and test on sample boards) until you have the desired color. Because this is a water based colorant, you can use any film or penetrating finish you like. I would test any water based film finish first before you commit the the real thing.

​@@JeremyACox so what dilution did you use in this video with the red oak? 1:1?

Thanks Mark! Best of luck with your projects.

I haven’t considered that. Great idea.

The music piece is tricky. It helps move things along but the selection is so subjective.

Its called Tensorgrip L21

You’ve got my curiosity. With no fumes I’m wondering about the chemical composition and bonding strength.

I work for an international furniture company that builds furniture for biggest hotels in the world Disnylands Dubai etc, believe me, it works very well and once it is stuck forget about taking it apart after just 5min

@@JeremyACox ruclips.net/video/lcZyb2KO4bM/видео.html

@@TheBizLens I watched th video, it seams pretty great. Am I correct in assuming that the furniture you make uses less veneer and more/exclusively laminate products? Thanks for the recommendation!

I would recommend covering the ink with a durable top coat. Any of the finishes you listed are appropriate.

Yes, the India Ink is not protective. It only functions as a colorant. It will be chemically compatible with any woodworking top coats, such as polyurethane, shellac, lacquer, water-based, etc.

There are really two options, Denatured Alcohol or a grain alcohol, like Everclear.

Roger, I ran into a technical issue while filming this, which I didn't know about until after. I apologize for any confusion or frustration this caused. That said, thank you for your questions. Yes, the process works! I did clamp during the drying process, the vacuum bag is perfect for this process of pulling excess moisture out during the drying cycle. Yes, I did change the papers. If these are not changed, the process is far less effective. Hope this helps.

Rhys, this is a good question and like everything else in woodworking, it is debatable. The short answer is that it saves time/effort and possibly damage to remove the tape if it is exposed on the show face, after the veneer has been adhered. The adhesive will stick to the tape, the tape then sticks to the veneer, so it is a reliable option. It does however require that one applies the correct amount of water to activate the tape. If there is a dry spot on the tape, there will be a glue failure under the veneer. I should also say that this process only works with veneer tape, NOT blue tape, etc.

@@JeremyACox Thanks for taking the time to respond

I don't use the veneer tape on the glue side, but here is a good explanation of uses. www.google.com/search?q=veneer+tape+use&client=tablet-android-samsung-rvo1&sca_esv=8c3ea7e49633cccf&source=android-home&sxsrf=ACQVn081eWMescOfRCQfffuDB9rQrXEDew%3A1708189092967&source=hp&ei=pOXQZbXyOOq60PEP-ceBsAo&iflsig=ANes7DEAAAAAZdDztFvZGucdl_eOJJHM4j-yMr4M0Pj0&oq=veneer+tape+u&gs_lp=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&sclient=gws-wiz#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:f2606a49,vid:fSkpchJ2_wQ,st:0

Hey Gary, thanks for watching. I believe I used a 5/8" 3 TPI blade. For this type of work, the blade is less important than how sharp and well-tuned your saw is. Good luck with your dovetail cutting!

Hi Marvin. Really great question! I too agonize over the worst case scenario when wood expansion is involved. As for the grain orientation on side-hung drawer runners, I have always run the long grain front to back (with the drawer). I believe there would be a greater expansion issue if running perpendicular and there would be no good option for adhering into to table grove.

@@JeremyACox Jeremy I have asked this question of several cabinet makers an you are the only one to respond. I greatly appreciate your time and information. You also helped me with the thought process instead of just giving me the answer

Hello William. I use a fiberglass screen material that is found in box stores as window and door screen replacement material. I have purchased from Lowes and Home Depot. The veneer softening agent is called Super Soft II, purchased through veneersupplies.com Good luck with your veneering projects!