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Yes, you are right. It is more rare.

Thanks for your comment. Sorry to hear about your low end torque. I didnt notice that in my bike.

@@jac5431 It's not a big problem since I'm really enjoying the sound and the fury of the high end of the torque scale.

Thank you. Stock length. I didnt want to mess with the bike’s geometry.

Thanks for your comments. And thats a good order of operations to go through when getting a used bike. I ended up putting the front fender back on. It looks cool without it but the amount of dirt and rocks it kicks up on you and water spray, even if it’s not raining but the road is just wet, ends up soaking you. Bikes have front fenders for a reason!

@@jac5431 I actually rode a bike illegally for years without a front fender so I know what you are saying, for some reason Softails FXSTC seems to fit me like a glove, I particularly like the Slim, anyway, once again, you did a great job on that WG.

Thank you. No, not scripted or rehearsed, all off the cuff. In terms of the products, its nit intended to be a sales pitch. I mention the products because people often ask when commenting on the video. So, to be more efficient, i name all the products. Thanks for watching and commenting!

Thanks. Good luck with your install. The direction that come with the Cyclops kit are pretty good in terms of what wires to connect.

True. I used the canned iMovie set up, i didnt have much flexibility.

Thanks for taking the time to pass that along to me. I really appreciate your kind words.

Thanks. 10” bars but i left the stock risers, which 2.5”.

It comes included in the directions in the kit. They may be located on the Cyclops website.

No, you don't need to cut the blue wire. You make a connection with a Posi-tap. It's that red cylindrical plastic piece. I also discuss at 8:00. It's super simple. You screw the Posi-tap onto the blue wire from the headlight harness on the KTM. Google Posi-tap and how to make the connection. Don't be intimidated by this step in making the connection, it really is simple.

Thanks! Just one mounting point is all that’s needed. The lights stay in place, not to worry. It also keeps them protected when you crash because it’s inside the tank area.

@@jac5431 Great benefit and they dont protrude or look out of place. I like them on low with the DRL setting. Do they turn off if you turn your DRL off?

The way I have these lights wired is that the DRL comes on automatically when I turn the ignition key on the bike and they stay on, no option to turn them off. When I flick the high beam switch, then the full spit lights come on and are turned off when I flick the high beam switch off.

De nada. Estoy contenta de que haya gustado.

I did not have to make a bracket for the light. And I forgot where I bought the light, but it might have been JP Cycle. Sorry I can’t remember.

I hear what you are saying. But it’s surprisingly strong and light weight. Way better than the stomach bash plate. I suppose it’s down to how hard you plan to ride off road. If the extra weight of bigger metal bash plate fits your riding style, then put one on. I ride pretty hard, so far no issues for me. It works great and light weight.

stock, not stomach. Typo

thank you for the nice feedback!

Good to know! Thanks

I just got a note from you saying I’m deleting your comments? I’m not doing that. Not sure what’s happening but your comments are coming through as email notifications to me but not showing up in the comments section under the video.

@@jac5431ok, thanks

😂

Ah, good to know. Thanks for sharing!

The video makes the look more yellow than they actually are. But that said, it’s the design of the amber auxiliary light. If it is grabbing your attention, then it’s working because it enables you to be seen on the road better by other cars. The more obnoxiously conspicuous they are the better! It’s great to been seen by other cars!

I’ll add those to the list! I do like the Tail/Brake though.

You connect to both ACC1 and ACC2 wires labelled from the Cyclops kit to ACC1 and ACC2 pigtails on the bike. Hard to see but shown at 11:40. Here’s how it works. In the Cyclops kit, the wire harness is already connected to by the bullet pin connectors labelled ACC1. Comes this way in the Cyclops kit. Plug that into the ACC1 pigtails on the bike. Next, connect the bullet pins from the wire on one of the lights to the spider wire labelled ACC2 that comes with the kit. Then connect that into the ACC2 pigtails on the bike. In the segment of the video around 8:30 you can see to my right another set of wires. That’s the ACC2 from the kit I am referring to that you connect with the bullet pins from the wire on the light. Obviously, red to red, black to black. Then you should be all set.

@@jac5431 thank you i did not see that extra harness when watching the video. So from the harness already connected to the cyclops main harness which goes to acc1 you connect this extra harness (shown to your right) and this one goes to acc2. I dont really see the point of having 2 small harnesses going to acc1 & acc2. But i am bo electrician as you know already

Yes, seems strange, but here’s what’s going on. The ACC1 connection from the Cyclops kit to the ACC1 on the bike provides power to the whole system. The ACC2 connection powers the relay switch, which is that black box on the Cyclops wiring harness. So, when you turn the key on the bike the relay switches the day running lights on. When you turn the high beams on, the relay switches the flood lights on. When you turn the key off, the relay switches everything off. You basically have two circuits at work. One that powers the DRLs and the other that powers the flood lights. The relay switches from one circuit to the other. The relay is just another word for switch. It relays, or switches from one circuit connection to another. The high beam switch on your car works the same way, it’s powered by a relay. Thanks for being curious and asking the question. It’s good to know why and how it works so if something goes wrong you can troubleshoot it in the future. But let’s hope we never have to!

@@jac5431 Thank you so much for taking the time. Since i don't want the DRL but just aux lights full power when pressing the high beam do you think the cyclops harness will be much simpler and just connect to the acc2 without relay?

Hmmmm. I’m not sure. You can try that. But the aux lights may just turn on with the bike and stay on. You can try different configurations. You will not do any harm to the bike. You can try plugging in the ACC1 attached to the Cyclops harness into ACC2 on the bike. Plug the bullet connectors from the lights into that same ACC1 from the kit. This may work.

Thank you. And good catch. You are right. That wasn’t actually the finished product in the video. I pushed the male leads all the way in and then put a wire heat-shrink housing around each lead to make sure they didn’t touch and no water would ever get in. I was just trying to illustrate where and how the connection is made. But good catch!

It was a NICECNC Mount. Got it on Amazon, $50. Seems like it would be OK, I’m sure there are better out there. Here’s the link to it: NICECNC Angle Adjustable GPS Phone Mount Compatible with KTM 890 Adventure R/S/Rally 2023-2024,Aluminum,CNC-machined,Anodized,2023 890 Adventure R Accessories,2023 890 Adventure R GPS Mount a.co/d/au265Er

@@jac5431 thanks! Sorry, other question: what tool are you using? Is it some kind of automatic torque wrench?

@@lele.grazioli yes it is. But it’s unnecessary. All you need is either a screw driver or ratchet with a T30 torx bit. You can definitely do this job. If you are just installing GPS, then it will be very simple. Connect to the ACC2 pig tail leads. On your bike that will be the brown wire (negative) to the black GPS wire and the black wire with red stripe (positive) to the red wire from the GPS.

I tried not to do too much, new handlebars, LED lights, rebuilt the carb, exhaust, retuned the engine.

Yes, I screwed that up. I went into RUclips to fix. It should be corrected now. Thanks though.

Yes. Once you get it on, then taking it off and putting it back on is very easy.

Thanks. Good to know.

I run AXP 8mm on my ktm 300. Had aluminium bash plate before and when hitting the rock the impact was transfered to the frame and bent it. With HDPE 8mm plate i didnt have any issue.

yes

AXP

Good to know. Thank you!

Yes, good point. Could have left that alone.

😂 Thanks