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I have to ask, why is there GBA SP game slot on the bottom of that PCB? What does it do?

i tried using my own usb c cables and the t80 shutdown immediately even if they are 100 watts or usb c 3.1 so i’m just using the one that came with the package

Thanks! Can it function on 65W? Was a little challenging to find a 100W PD USB charger at a low price.

Do all 3.0 have the shutter even then new ones

Would you be able to do this for others?

I've been impressed by the FINIRSI HS-02 I'll be ordering that soon.

I have assembled a device - on all platforms CheckSum ERROR

Why do you even bother with ultrasonic if you have literally cleaned it with alcohol and needs no extra cleaning? Sounds like a totally useless machine then... I was hoping I could get one to avoid scrubing dozens of PCBs all the time...

Awesome build vid. I just finished assembling mine last night with the shell you made. Amazing design!

Hot stuff!!

i dont really mind the tips of the TS100, i just bought 6 of them and theyve lasted me, if i need new ones i know i can just order some inexpensively from china. i also have to say, i disagree about saying "wouldnt use it for 16AWG" ive confidentally used it solder various things. it has no problem whatsoever just pumping heat into a part, 10mm^2 wasnt an issue, just get a big broad tip, good coupling and it solders. also works for 10mm diameter copper pipes. for the pipe, cant say much about the quality of the joint tho haha it seals but it is never liquid all at once. the scew getting lost? ive never ever tightend it... i mean its like, in so it cant bend, but so i can still pull it out. if there comes a time the tip slips out im definetly using it wrong haha espcially with your 3D printing stuff i can say that i would comapre those soldering irons to the newer hotends there are. for high flow there used to be volcano, copper nozzles, just really big heavy long stuff to get good heat transfer and buffer, and now we have a tiny 60W heater with a thermocouple integrated usually as a one piece or really close to the nozzle being able to pump more flow then the old super longs used to!

Pine's site is down today, ordering in Canada is an absolute battle. ...Alientek is one click.. Gonna have to find a case like you have to print while waiting on it in the mail; this'll be great for automotive work.

Any relation to the Miniware soldering irons? these look like a clone of those, they even use the same name?

the screw on cap alone makes it worth the buy. I've had a few ts-100s for like 8 years and they are sus thrown in a backpack, one the plastic is all broken from probably being bent

The sequre s99 uses the c245 jbc tips.

Have you seen all the mods for the Pinecil? Like the ring light etc?

TS100 isn't really proprietary, they work on the TS100, TS101 and the Pinecil and the Pinecol 2.0. Have you tried the Pinecil 2.0 yet? Thanks fo this video!

Hello(^_^) I have a question. Can I use t80 with JBC tips? I recently purchased a t80 and I would like to use different tips since there are only 3 types of tips from alientek.

Nice video, but I really liked your custom 3D printed things more! Do you sell the solder spool holder or offer the files to get it printed? Is it a ball bearing mechanism for the free spin?

Hello! Can i replace the sd card by a USB for reader directly the rom on my pc?

i would put the pcb in the ultrasonic cleaner. then put it in water, then douse it in ipa to remove the water. anything else is unnecessary. you have to use distilled water or it will cause problems later. it looks fine, but its not.

Hopefully last question for you sir. I just received my programmer from embedded computers and am at the point in your tutorial where drivers have been updated and the chip installed on the nor x8 piece. Within the application instead of detecting the chip it states "Flash memory detected but not found in Flash library." Any ideas what may be the issue? Thank you. Edit: 5v switch wasn't set for anyone whom may have the same issue.

If you have a european snes, it might work for you, my tv is ntsc and pal compatable but some may not work. The famicom and the euro snes use the same cardrige so no adapter is needed

Where did you buy this version?

NIce! Another fellow Summit Ice enjoyer! Been rocking my Summit Ice Softshell Jacket for the past 5 years and still going strong.

Dude yes! I've been following this project since Twitter randomly fed me youe tweet. This video was also incredible 😂. Question on sizing from your store. Do the molds take into account the extra few millimeters added by plastic protective sleeve? Also, what about multi disc ps1 games?

oh I actually did this but mine where just a flat surface, you did a lot more work than me. I just wanted everything to be pushed right to the edge. but its great you put this out for others to benefit from❤

Great video Kytor! Such an awesome idea and great prints as always!

Hi there, do you or anyone have a link to the chips used in the programmer? Thanks in advance.

Been thinking about doing this since I recently revived my stock radio. FM transmitters are nice but can be finnicky. Also I have a question. I have a cassette radio but since the cassette deck doesn't work, I was thinking of using the play button as a switch to skip forwards or backwards through a Playlist. Could that be possible with that board by chance?

The shutters have a steel plate that is embedded in the rubber and runs just about the full length. The pin in the middle is stainless steel. The rubber is made to withstand corrosion and high temperatures of the exhaust. Not even an overheat will melt them. I had a 250° overheat on my engine from a clogged thermostat and when I did my maintenance and inspected them, they were as good as new.

Great Video! I'm ordering a PCBs now to build my own. Quick question, I saw you created the SNES CIC board, but where does it go?

23:58 Ordered a bunch of extensions cables on AliExpress. Tried that trick. Turns out for the model I got they fill the plugs with some kind of red resin to make the cables more durable. The one case where I wished they would cut some corners on the quality...

awesome video ma, thank you for putting it out there, I ordered the parts a few weeks back and will be building one of these for myself and a buddy who chipped in for parts. that said I do have a question for you, I downloaded the file for your case and really liked the purple color filament you used in one of the pictures, so if you don't mind me asking what filament was that one? if you don't remember that is fine but figured it didn't hurt to ask

Damn great video bro

We are going to apply the drag technique, One may use this technique on your friends mother as well...... pause to let that soak in.. lol

Thanks for this very clear video. It was particularly helpful that you mentioned gotchas as you went. I just finished building one and am very happy with it. Your case looks great as well.

Hi, I am getting ready to do this exact project. However I will just be flashing the normal 24 megabit earthbound english version onto a Mother 2 cartridge. I will be using 1 Super Stacker (16 megabit 29F016 29F800 TSSOP48 chip) and 1 8Megabitz (8 megabit 29F800 TSSOP48 chip). I just received the flashcat however it came with 2 different tssop adapter boards one that is x8 and one that is x16 and I'm not sure which one to use. Any help would be appreciated thanks.

is there a part list other than getting them from ali express? don't really trust that website :). thanks!

Neat case. I got one by accident via a sanni reader bundle listing. Does the dust cover on the newer editions work on the older revision?

Hi, nice video. Wondering about your cartridge riser, is the shell printed, do you have a STL that you could share or point too? Thank you.

The major take away from this video for me is, I need to get a blade tip ASAP. 😂

The trick to better drag soldering on a two-sided PCB is to add fresh solder AFTER getting the legs to flow solder all the way through. You should already have liquid flux on the board but you want to deposit fresh flux from your solder core and replenish the solder reservoir on your tip just as your tip leaves them, not as your tip arrives. Of course, you have to add a good bit of fresh solder to start but once it has heated enough to ensure it has flowed through to the other side then the flux has already gone inactive (burned up) and you need to add more. You may also want to bump the temperature up a bit from where you had it so it can flow through quickly with the liquid flux that was already there. So: Flux the whole row with liquid flux, make a large blob of solder at the start and once it flows both sides add the tiniest touch of solder as you drag away. The thermal mass from your knife tip and solder blob should activate the liquid flux on the board and refresh the solder as you envelop new pins but you want to drag slowly enough that it flows all the way through. By then the flux will have inactivated so you add the tiniest touch of fresh solder just as you move away from those too. Because the standard size K-tip can flow three legs at a time I give it one kiss of solder for every three legs.

The SCART compatibility thing in the official guide isn’t because the AV Famicom guide is outdated. I mean, it is, but that part was talking about the “official” SCART cable… which is PAL-only and has a different spec from NTSC RGB cables (75Ω resistors instead of 220uF caps). The GameCube SCART cable was more like the NTSC RGB spec because it had 220uF capacitors on each color channel.

I noticed you have 4 empty pins on the end of one of the ROM chips. How do you decide where to align the S.Stacker board on those 4 empty pins? Also, do you solder the S.Stacker board to those 4 empty pins? I noticed in a different vid that Voultar uses a combination of a S.Stacker and his 8 Megabitz board to get around that. Not sure how that works, since it’d be 12+ megabits on the 8 megabit board..

Even with the CIC I am unable to dump a SA1 based game, I used a P16F630 programmed with supercic-lock_p16f630.hex, programmer used INTEL HEX file format, programmed with a top of the line T56 program device,,, any ideas??? Thank you for your video.

😮

不知用来做什么🤔️

I just purchased an AV Famicom with this audio mod and tim's NESRGB V4.0. My audio is buzzing though...it weirdly stops when I disconnect my retro-bit N30 wireless pad receiver, OR when i place my hand near the controller port? Any advice?

Thanks for the video. Something I want to do but got 0 patience on soldiering, no doubt I might bust something. Very nice of you of providing the shell for this diy kit, looks really good. I recently bought the Alter V3, pretty much the same but its pre-built instead (Save the heroes builders), only difference is I have to use the nes/famicom adapter as it don't have one right off the back, this one is a push button type and not the dial, looks overall different then the pre-built one but the overall function is the same. One more question, how much you looking to charge if you had one already pre-built?, like the one shown on this video, enclosure and all? Thanks again.