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Dilberts Garage
Добавлен 31 июл 2013
Steering stem bearing replacement on CR 250 1994 model
Steering stem bearing replacement on CR 250 1994 model
Просмотров: 60
Видео
1994 cr250 shock linkage and swinging arm bearing replacement.
Просмотров 193 месяца назад
1994 cr250 shock linkage and swinging arm bearing replacement.
How to remove headlights grill and bumper on a r56 Mini Cooper s
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How to remove headlights grill and bumper on a r56 Mini Cooper s
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Easy how to video #mini Cooper #makitatools
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Installing intake pipe on Mini Cooper S r56 N14
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2011 Nissan Altima Front and Rear brake change
Mini Cooper S timing chain replacement part 3 R56
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Mini Cooper S timing chain replacement part 3 R56
Mini Cooper s timing chain replacement part 2 R56
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Mini Cooper s timing chain replacement part 2 R56
How to replace timing chain on Mini Cooper s R56 part 1
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How to replace timing chain on Mini Cooper s R56 part 1
Mini Cooper S R56 clutch replacement part 2
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Mini Cooper S R56 clutch replacement part 2
Replacing Clutch On A Mini Cooper R56 Part 1
Просмотров 12 тыс.4 года назад
Replacing Clutch On A Mini Cooper R56 Part 1
whats the name this sensor? min 0:28
Dude, WTF?
Do you have a link to the pipe please?
Hello. What is the description of the first hose that’s taken off please?
awesome.
When i changed mine that was leaking i deleted the code and proceed to start the engine but i didnt start... what can it be?
Thank you for sharing!
Add a link to part 2 in the description and maybe at the end of the video too?
Thanks man. I used your video to get back on the road. I truly appreciate creators like you.
Thanks man! Mine keeps sliding off. That looks like a more efficient design. No issues?
Why they make it so difficult it’s a manual it’s going to go at some point
Hey! Great video. U mind letting me know what year it is??
2007 Mini Cooper s
Tips for anyone watching!!! removing is pretty simple... in short strip everything away as shown in the footage & other videos "that includes the small brackets on-top of the transmission& brackets around the crush structure's "leading edge of the 2 large bars coming off the firewall!" & off the top of the gearbox! you'll also find it best to remove the piping from the clutch slave cylinder & pipe, blocking off the hydraulic line as you go "its easy to pinch the line otherwise" OR it'll also be handy to remove the oil filter housing for more room & you'll probably find the gaskets have passed their sell-by date (I'd replaced them shy of 2yrs ago) also note! the gearbox is heavy to handle, the weight is mostly towards the back of the transmission/gearbox etc using a jack to remove the transmission would be awkward (below the trans) you can manhandle it out but it can be a sod to remove... you'd be best to use a hoist or crane to take the weight. anyway getting it back in nice tips use a small block of wood below the engine & make sure there isn't a edge/ledge protruding from the engine out towards the gearbox as it'll prevent the trans from mating up! also again use a hoist OR crane to hold the trans so you can refit it back to the engine block! also make sure you support the transmission, not just at the lifting eye (located at the top of the transmission) there's also a point just above/to the side of the LSD area of the trans, use that point aswell to keep the transmission level (side to side) Dropping the engine (gearbox side down slightly 1-2inches also helps.... if you do this the trans should easily slip into position (I had a little fight for about 10minutes as it wouldn't line up, I then did the above & within seconds the trans was mounted up & bolt were going in "literally within seconds" don't try to manhandle it into position.. the transmission is heavy & there's NO space for a couple of ppl to work the trans into position