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Hi David, I’ve struggled with the official naming of this knot, but yes I would agree on some variety of a bowline. I would describe it as running bowline with a bite. Bowline on a bite has a different finish, and cannot be tied in a running, aka choking configuration.

Hi David, yes I would call it some variation of a bowline, and I have not been able to find it specifically named. I would call it running bowline with a bite. I have used this for rigging a tag line as well. Bowline on a bite is not running (choking).

@ it’s funny because i’m a knot nerd and i used your variation for years successfully, very good for tag lines or when you need a mid line loop , every time i’ve ever thought i’d made a knot i’d find out it was documented some far corner of the globe lol

i first tied it many moons ago when i was learning my various bowlines for tree work and my so called mentor used a lot of rabbits running up holes and down holes and around trees and up trees lol that’s how i learned to ties knots with knot dyslexia lol , but it wasn’t until i understood the theory of knotting and practical application for decades did i understand the knots that have kept me alive for 44 years of arborist and iron working:)

Thanks for the tip, this video was filmed during a snow storm, and I did not have access to my daily 24 strand nope, or throwline. Low stretch high strand ropes are becoming popular for single rope climbing with heavy ascender and mechanical use. One drawback to low stretch ropes is the increased risk of injury during a shock load event while climbing with a moving rope system (double the rope, half the stretch). In recreational use, MRS may be rarely used, but in my job, I’m often alternating between MRS and SRT, so a little more stretch is a tolerable tradeoff. The bulk and weight of 1/2” 16 strand rope is noticeable. My new 24 strand hyper climb rope is affordable, breaking in well, and knots smoothly. Another rope I’m curious to try is a thinner 11.7mm 16 strand rope to suit my style of footlocking, natural crotch anchors while rope advancing & removals, & occasional tail rigging for bodyweight pieces.

Thanks Jonathan, I’m glad my video reached you-Did you try it? This idea was inspired by Bino H sharing a product called the shizll rope slider, My inability to find and/or purchase a Shizll rope slider, and my lack of an effective lanyard adjusting system motivated me rummaging through my gear bin to discover the faux shizll. As consumers we can often be conditioned to an illusion of scarcity, which leads us to make poor choices and overlook alternatives. In my case I was poor and motivated enough to see the alternative. The prime function of a lanyard adjuster is to quickly tend slack with one hand-while your other hand is pulling the slack. The pulley world has a name for this called “prusik minding” but the micro pulleys designed for arborists, and installed on a majority of lanyards, don’t resemble prusik minding pulleys-with angular and protruding cheek plates.

@@timeorspace Super cool. I typically use a either a ringed or thimbled prusik loop and clip a smallish carabiner into the thimble or ring and then either above or below the coils of prusik to tend or release it. Being that it's a carabiner, I have the option to engage/disengage this function at will.

I wonder if a quick link could be used in place of the anchor ring?

Easy, If you have the right tools…..I did not share my laborious process of finding the wrong tools.

Hand hitch looks like a VT

Black diamond sling

Hi Briana, I’m a DIY not a pro. Since this video was published Ive also had a Dodge van seat get stuck. Often I’m finding the problem to be a cable which has fallen off track where it turns a corner. Inspecting these cables in your Sienna seat may require gaining access under the seat, or removing the cover on the seat back (flat plastic discs around perimeter hold a thin fabric covering-pry out the plastic discs to see cables inside seat back. If it’s out of the trunk well, you may have access to the floor mounting bolts, which may allow you to remove the entire seat for better access and repair.

I may have repaired my sienna cable with a zip tie to hold it in its track.

Thank you Seth for the tip. I found the foot asc. by itself put too much pressure on my kneecap. I’d like to try adding a second foot by clipping a foot loop to my rope wrench. For short & mixed ascents the simplicity of footlocking on a rw feels uncluttered and fluid.

Wow, that is cool! I wonder why competitors required ‘belts’? Blair, I appreciate your channel’s focus on plant health. An even older video I recently enjoyed is from Davey Tree. ruclips.net/video/Oog1ENMGRsE/видео.html

@@timeorspace we required the belts because in use, we would tie in when we reached the top. Then pull up our rope and go to work. I did this kind of climbing for many years. My best 40 foot competition time was 28 seconds. Lots of guys were getting it in less than 20 seconds. When Bob Hunter broke the ten second barrier, it was like Olympic gold metal status. Now days, nobody remembers Bob.

I suppose the stay home dad has a bit of ‘physical’ energy to burn on footlocking. It is getting easier with practice. Im starting work in June, so I need to keep at it while have energy to burn.

Thank you for your comment!

Right on!

Happy to help

Great tip!

@@timeorspace thanks

AMC1000, Thank you for watching!

Nice!!!

Yajsemi, the energy in that breaker bar deserves respect! A mechanic needs to be mindful of the rotation direction and socket selection-I used a 6 point, and would be timid about using a 12 point for the risk of stripping the bolt. On this job, replacing the harmonic Balancer did little to remedy the noise-the problem was in the timing belt,/tensioner.

Hi Blake, thank you for reaching out. I have not been able to provide a video response, but I will provide a link to a great video to get you started. Please be prepared and try this on the ground before using in a mandatory rappel. Not all ropes behave the same way, and adjustments can be made. When new, my 24 strand 11mm rope slipped-but grabs better now, and likes 5 wraps-2below, 3above) ruclips.net/video/NDjCFjw8tFg/видео.html&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE

Like a semi truck, wide turns! It's not that different than the kid carrier trailers.

It has been a few years, I recall needing to fish a wire under the stuck-down seat and flossing it around to the side or back to capture the latch and tug. I was able to do this with the right bench up and out of the well, and may have pryed the left bench up onto a 2x4 board scrap to help with fishing wire. If this is your situation, you can study the free bench latches to visualize where to fish the wire under the stuck side.

Thank you too!

Thanks for the visit

Johnny, still unsolved? This comment is not very useful, can you share a specific problem you are experiencing?

Thanks for letting me know! I just opened it, so I'm not sure why you could not view it. I'll soon be correcting my Google account being full, so maybe it will work in a few days. www.evinem.blogspot.com

Thank you for the request. I have had some practice using friction hitches to change direction (up to down to up) while dangling, maybe showing these transitions would be more broadly helpful?

timeorspace yes please

timeorspace yes please from the beginning with set up

Michael Schneiter delivered a more detailed video ruclips.net/video/2AUcWpEap1E/видео.html

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Mel, I responded to this thread, any luck?

Hey Mel Sanders, I ran into the same problem you had . My 2011. Toyota Sienna seat is in stuck position and can get it stowed to up right position . Do you know which cable wire you had to pull on to unlatch it from the floor ?

@@HUNGPHAM-wu7zu yeah, it was a bear. my larger seat is the one on the left if you're facing into the back. the latch on mine was against the car wall on the left that I couldn't easily get to. so I took a strong flashlight and lifted up the right side to reveal the catch. I ended up taking a long bar and pushing it over to release it. it wasn't easy. I never did get it fixed - something was wrong in the gearing since it releases four separate points.

That sounds like the issue my seat had, now I’m driving a 99 Dodge with a similar problem, I suppose I can run, but I cannot hide from folding van seat cable issues.

Delayed response: After pulling a few flat miles, the rolling resistance became apparent. It’s very stable for short, heavy pulls, but will slow you down with distance.

Toyota Sienna been having all sorts of problem with the cable from the seats and sliding doors ,the sliding doors are recalls but as far as the 3rd rows seats Toyota are ignoring the problem and. keeping it quiet

Jeff, It has been awhile since this video and details may be fuzzy memories, but I remember being able to free one side of the bench from the floor, to study the orientation of the latch mechanism where it actually meets the floor, while gaining more access to the stuck side. I recall the latch being located toward the outside edge of the seat section and having enough play in the system to prop the central side of the stuck seat a few inches off the floor, affording just enough to space to patiently fish some wire in from the front edge and out through the propped side. Pull the wire ends down and together towards the rear? or front? to encircle the latch. Pulling the wire may pop the latch, releasing the seat from the floor so that you can continue with the repair. Again, details are fuzzy, use the non-stuck side as an example of possibly test run to verify the latch orientation so you know the location, direction, and force required to pop it open.

however, when in the stowed position, there is only one place where the seat attaches - the side against the side of the car.

i finally got it release when I propped up the opposite side, shined a bright flashlight, and used a long bar to push the latch and release it - it wasn't easy.

Billy, I do recall some issues with a busted anchor for a cable housing, which I was able to botch into place with something like a zip tie. It's been awhile and don't recall details. Otherwise, the stowing seat system has been 90% catch-less. In the rare event it sticks in the down position, some repetitive un-latching gets it out.

Billy, I ended up strapping the cable housing stop, pictured at 3:47, into it's steel anchor point, and the seat has been functional since. I have found that both sides of the stowed seats do get stuck on occasion, but I am able to 'fidget' them free.