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Improperly used, any forklift can lift/tilt WAY more than rated, and enough to easily flip the truck over...weight is only a small part of the ratings... all are rated at 24" out on the forks and a set height off the ground... but mast full up/tilted full out, using booms especially, any truck can flip over at lower than the basic 'weight' capacity. if lifting high, or extended reach, always tape measure center of axle to load center, compare to equivalent ft/lb moment load ratings similarly calculated off the rating placard... ive seen idiots use lift chains hooked flat as 4-5 degrees from horizontal snap chains effortlessly, seen idiots strap loads down with chains so flat they are holding nothing 'down' at all, yet overloading everything... 40 years ago,saw a guy flip a 3000 pound rated truck over just lifting a 400 pound conveyor way high-it swung and flipped that truck like a toy... lift math is easy to find online i'm sure...but always keep in mind the ft/lb rating thats rarely on the rating tag, but easy to calculate, vs what you are picking...and always watch angles if lifting with chains...too many folks ignore the basic math of leverage- but its absolutely as dangerous as leaving a chuck key in a lathe- some things are simply "musts".

dont think these were Clarks best, but they are what they are- only 'bad' is they are rather huge...this ones a triple and weighs 9900 pounds- the counterweight is huge, and steer tires narrow- go off the cement, it sinks immediately... biggest 'bad' thing is the brake system- if you ever need to bleed the masters, good luck. its common for the plastic reservoir tee to crack, get air in, and mounted vertically, its about impossible to bleed them... ibench bleeding/plugging kinda works, but reconnecting without getting air in is about impossible- will be 'good enough', but to truly bleed, need to remove them(longer feed tube needed- i used separate reservoirs, tipped rod down, bled, reinstalled and with pedal wedged to floor quickly cut/connected the reservoir hose- a messy pain in the butt, but got all the air out)... aside from brake bleeding, other than physically bigger than similar capacity trucks, theyre pretty solid- the mitsubishi motor will run forever, BTW a 89 mitsubishi montero cap and rotor/similar worked a lot cheaper than Clark...and if you need steering links replaced, book says drop axle- not needed- pull both outer pins, kick tires toed in to clear links, swing both links rearward, then just push down on them, rotating the steer piston, giving enough room to pull inner pins...glad I did mine before buying the manual :) will say even though rated for 5000, a little mits fg25 from same year is smaller/lighter/smoother...I just *had* to save this one though- remembered when they bought them, and it sure looked saveable, heck only has 1500 hours on it...when I saw they were gonna haul it to the scrapper, talked the boss out of it...didnt need it, I just have rocks in my head about seeing stuff discarded over just a bit of elbow grease...ended up being a really nice truck, only have about 800 bucks in it- but quite a few hours too.

@@timc2219 if your near Biloxi Mississippi I be glad to give you 800 bucks for her 😁. I feel same way about stuff just being junked. By chance what spark plug an spark plug gap?

the white for the wheels was just gloss white rustoleum, the black for chassis/mast is just spray on bedliner, the green is from summit racing, #SUM-UP329Q, uses reducer/activator #SUM-UP100Q. Black for seat pan was #SUM-UP300Q (same reducer as the green) bare metal was degreased, then treated with 'Ospho', epoxy primer was #SUM-UP230Q, with #SUM-UP231Q activator... aside from the spray can bedliner, the primer/paint was applied with little trim rollers, and the wheels were brushed...

thanks- not much for video though... I just hate seeing stuff go to waste. as for paint, its mopar sublime green two part urethane over two part epoxy primer- all summit racing stuff- but i didn't spray it...neon green overspray would really suck. I bought a gallon and didnt use but about a quart. I did it with little inch and a half x four inch wide rollers. I tried rolling on the epoxy primer, figured id wetsand and spray color- but it left what i thought looked perfect, a kinda pebblegrain but smooth finish, feels like smooth paint over a sandblasted cast iron does, textured, but not...hard to describe, feels about like the texture on my laptop case... after liking the primer, thought stupid as it seems to roll on a decent urethane paint, tried the color... gotta roll back over it as it begins to tack, same as primer needed, then let flow out, really like the feel of it, slight texture shouldnt show scratches like glass smooth would, plus it just has a 'industrial' look to it... I will never spray another machine tool/lift/toolbox/anything else in the garage- plus clean up is nothing...disposable trays, mix up a few ounces at a time, when done pull roller cover off, put in tray- next day its solid, throw in the trash... aside from a couple drips, no mess at all. it IS a real urethane, so you NEED a real quality respirator to keep any isocyanate fumes from permanently injuring your lungs, but zero overspray, very little smell compared to spraying. dont buy more than a quart. the primer, (gallon) paint, activators-hardeners cost under 200 at the time, real paint is expensive... deltron clear was over 400 a gallon last time i checked- without hardener/reducer/activator... I DID put urethane clear on top of counterweight and seat pan, just hoping to help wear longer- but used the two part in a spray can stuff... automotive touchup sells it, about 30 a can- theres a plunger pin you press to pop the hardener release inside the spray can, and youve got about a half hour to use it, really works well. I did another forklift too, i;m donating it to a local airplane museum of all crazy things...they have a ground equipment collection, and it was a same model the military used thru the 60's...its done except the dedication plate- since covid shut everything down its sat like 8 months untouched... i need to get after it and get it out of the shop, out of sight, out of mind... anyways it was rolled on summit urethane too, lots of pics here- 1963 towmotor 462 forklift saving from scrapyard | Flickr lastly- if painting ANYTHING bare metal, before priming, treat the metal with 'ospho' ow whatever metalprep/phosphoric acid your local hardware stores carry... just brush or wipe on, wash off with water, wash off again, when sure its clean, wash off again :) let dry... it converts microscopic rust that forms the instant bare metal meets air to iron phosphate...you cant see it, just the metal gets a slightly more grey tint, but paint loves it, and will never blister off from rust underneath...stuff with visible rust will turn black, but again, it wont rust under the paint.

thanks- that was a really fun road trip... the one pic with the mountains got us the back page of 'myford' magazine...we had FRS walkie-talkies, our 5 year old was a chatterbox the whole trip :) had hoped to go to the west coast, but kids were route 66'd out, so went back to spend some days in Colorado. all that driving, rarely saw a raindrop, no real rain till back in ohio, then almost home one had a low tire warning- had a plug kit, plugged it on the car before it even went flat, was able to drive to gas station to air up...first 'non-flat' i ever had :) I did the same trip in 1990 in a 85 camaro, the mustangs were like cadillacs ride-wise compared to that skateboard riding camaro...

it goes quick- they send cars about 10-15 seconds apart, ends up just a few minutes between runs, usually each run group gets 5 runs...3 run groups, run-rest-work the course is the usual sequence, and it goes by fast... 2 driver cars barely stop long enough to switch drivers, change numbers, catch your breath and go...with 2 drivers it really roasts the brakes, EBC red front pads turn my rotors blue as my car in 2-3 runs- but dont fade :)

these werent prelubed- maybe some assembly lube, but you could see the ball/grease slots, etc- they come with boots/grease fitting/cotter pin separate. grease is not supposed to blow out between the welded plates. I greased(tried) AFTER fully reassembling the frontend, would not take any grease boot was still flat/soft... took the freaking thing back out of the car thinking WTF, nothing looked wrong, but pulling the boot off, still no grease up top- note, there was no resistance to the greasegun- felt like pulling the handle with it unhooked, grease just pouring out- in the video, you'll notice the boot is loose/up against the nut- the taper has a gap to the boot there- no grease coming out... my guess is there was a metal chip or similar between the plates when welded together leaving a gap in the assembly- or maybe a missing o-ring- never cut one apart to see it the induction weld is 360 degrees around the hole, or if here is a seal in there too... pretty much had to be something along those lines. the identical one I replaced it with, the boot filled normally... one other possibility- Ive heard the chinese are getting knockoffs on the market of about everything out there- perhaps this wasnt a real MOOG part? kinda doubtful as bought from Summit- from what ive read the knockoff issue is most often ebay/amazon type sales, but have never heard specifically of chassis parts being knocked off...these days you never know