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Just funny as all f**** ! You skipped ahead at the exact moment I needed to get some answers on how tf you separated the condensor and radiator 😂😅😂😅😂 don't worry ill figure it out! 😂😅😂😅😂

You definitely like working harder, not smarter. The front bumper cover should have came off it Takes all of about ten minutes All those tools are useless if you don't have the knowledge

Gracias muy buen video una pregunta es el mismo trabajo para una town country 2013 gracias y saludos desde la CIUDAD DE MÉXICO

What brand was this? Thanks for the video. Im gonna follow this now.

the tensioner bolts are 1x use stretch bolts. need to be replaced

شكرا لك 🇸🇦

That was a very helpful video I was just quoted almost four hundred dollars for doing that exact same thing and I know I can. Thank you

Thank you so much for making this video. You have no idea how much help you are! Thank you! God bless you my man!

Exactly what I needed to know. It would have cost me $300 just to have them “diagnose” the problem. Easy fix, exactly as you showed. Thanks so much.

Thank you 🙏

Helped on my 2016 model as well, thanks!

I did it. thank you for taking the time to make this video. Why remove the fuse. I forgot to do that.

Thanks brother, GOD bless you!!

Thank you, sir🫡🫡🫡

Will: Thanks for providing this video. I checked my several Hyundai Santa Fe (2nd gen models) manuals and they breeze right over this procedure as it it were a piece of cake. However, for anyone who has not actually removed and/or replaced the radiator cooling fan on their Santa Fe, there are a few points that the manuals do not sufficiently make clear enough. One is that although you must unscrew the top L&R securing bolts (10mm), the cooling fan bottom securing points are not bolted in--they are slip-fitted (I had to have that explained to me, since the Hyundai manuals do not illustrate the cooling fan assembly so as to fully understand this question). Another point seems to be that that Santa Fe fan electrical connector (two-prong) apparently has a rep for getting overheated, which can cause the two parts of that connector to fuse together (and be inseparable). This was in fact my problem (on my 2006 model). The local Hyundai dealer told me that they couldn't pull those two parts of the connector apart and that the only repair they would willingly perform involved buying a new cooling fan ($300) AND replacing the entire engine bay 'main electrical harness' (at a further $3500!). WTF?!!! Then they also dropped another bombshell by telling me that the needed radiator cooling fan motor had "...been discontinued at the Hyundai Central Parts Deport, with no replacement date projected...if ANY!" WTF?!! again! I finally said "FTS!" and decided to to get both a new cooling fan replacement clone (from China...US$48...identical to the Hyundai original OEM part) and also a whole new replacement connector (available from 'FindPigtails.com' on-line for about US$75) component. Sure enough, the radiator Chinese fan clone arrived quickly and is a perfectly identical fit, as did the needed electrical connector replacement ('pigtail'), which is also identical to the original Hyundai part. All that said, I still had some questions about how 'easy' the procedure would be, but you managed to assuage those hesitations with your very good presentation. Many thanks for helping us 'inexperienced shade-tree mechanics' gain some reassurance with this process! Good on ya, mate! PS: Per @riverrick08's comment, that connector is a bee-yotch to figure out! Ya gotta play around with it to release the catch mechanisms that hold the two parts of it together. If you absolutely cannot separate them at all, it's a good possibility that you have a 'melted/fused' connector problem such as I had (that can cause intermittent or faulty electrical power feed to the fan motor!).

Sorry, but if you took a bolt out, you should put it back. It is there for a reason. Besides that all looked good to me.

You just skip the hardest part which is disconnecting the radiator from the bottom

I just watched five different videos on changing the front struts on an element - yours is by far the best. Far simpler (why do some insist on pulling the brake calipers and even sometimes the rotors???). The camera work was great - kudos to your son. The narrative was no-nonsense, straightforward, and easy to understand. I just subscribed - thank you!

You're a good man, man. Thank you for the video

I'm doing this job tomorrow but when I do it I'm removing the entire front bumper fascia so I can easily separate the condenser from the radiator and the lower power steering pipe that runs along the bottom of the condenser without having to worry about damaging the front grill and bumper. Take your time do it right if you're a diy'er and not a mechanic just trying to get it out the door quick as possible.

Thanks for all the help man just replaced my water pump using this video big help !!!

Thank you for posting this video. Thanks for taking the time of uploading it i was able to change the starter to my Corolla.

Did you use the pry bar to remove the strut as well?

how much you charge for all four pads and rotors labor only 2020 f150

so just having it in park keeps it from rolling down the driveway? seems like you need to chock the front wheels

Thank you so much!

Wow this is crazy I am actually going thru the same thing right now with my Tucson. I even see the front Reinforcement bar is bent exactly like mines causing the Condenser to bend. Great info wish you was in Philadelphia area I would definitely sent my car over for you to fix it!!!!!

Thank you

No audio ! Don't you edit 😮 !

No brake grease on the slider pins?

Nice job u make it look so easy thanks to ur video i can do my dodge thanks again brother😊

You happen to know if there's a grate/filter of some type inside the blower housing before air enters the interior? Curious if there is and if it gets clogged over time.

how will i know if the EGR is bad? does the car throw a code? mpgs drop? im almost at 100k on my Kia

You set a "greased up" pin on concrete..nice..

Thank you for the video, saw some comments on being able to do this job without evacuating the AC, nice to see how it's done! I'm going to be doing the radiator on my elderly in-laws Dodge Journey very soon and they are on a fixed income so this will save them some money!

Great Video...Thank you

Isaiah 29 11 was the point that God wanted me to see I picked the right video for instruction you are a true light praise God and may you always be blessed my freind, I can do all things through Christ wich strengthen me Amen 🙏

Heelo Rice, very nice and detailed video. May i know how you tested the injectors without removing first ? How did you know they need to be changed? Thank You!

great video

Sr ty you save me a couple bills ty SR

Good video for us newbies. I think I will drain the radiator first. Thank you!

Thank you, I'm a female and will be changing mine

what if the cars sruts are down will the old air strut be difficult to remove

If needed, you can use a faucet handle pulling tool to remove the wiper arm nuts. Fits perfectly 👍

Thanks so much very informative

Why doesn't anybody get a hat cam or body cam to record instead of holding camera and doing it all with one hand ??.

Thank you, glad you posted this video i was able to learn that DIY.

You make it look so easy I think I'm going to try it myself on my wife's town and country

wow he did not show the part were he had to pay someone to finish taking off the bolt on the other side and the botton clips WHAT A LOOSER

Won't the flathead mess up the rotor??