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You're welcome!

Unfortunately they make things as cheap as possible today. I bought a set a while back that were like that and they barely worked.

Mine normally stays under 204, but goes as high as 207. I would think the 212 is OK based on the idea that the sensor may read a couple degrees different, but I would make sure the fans were on and it was full of coolant with a cleaned out radiator (no mud in the fins). As long as the system has a good cap on it and no air pockets at that point it would be ok. Last thing I would check would be the battery connections to make sure I have good, clean connection. That could throw off a sensor as well.

Does okay, just have to be careful with the throttle. The drag brake doesn't work as good imo

To be honest I can't tell you exactly as I don't remember, but they were both the 6s blx version 1 notorious. I am thinking v3 in the outcast if I remember correctly? They have tactic radios and no centerbrace. (I cut down an xmaxx driveshaft for that).

These things are alot better than people give them credit for. Especially for the price point. Mine is still on stock electronics and motor (I oil it lightly with pb blaster if it starts to squel) and I am running 5.9 boggers for over 2 years. My 5 year old beats on it as well and it takes it. Goes almost anywhere too! To be honest, it is my most dependable rc. Pretty crazy for the small amount of money in it. I need to start making some more videos with it.

Glad I could help!

I put a set of 15mm on one I believe and worked very well also. It honestly looked more scale because of the axles knuckle not sticking out of the inside wheel so much the spacer was exposed. It cleared pretty good also if my memory serves me correctly. I do think a set of 10mm would work also on factory height tires.

@@karlriester1647 thank you very much!!!

I probably videoed the one I had damaged the center in honestly? After I pull the fastener off, I will take and try to wiggle the wheel left, right, up, down in kind of a ciricular pattern while holding the unit with my other hand. It will also be setting on something under the bottom of the chassis so that the tire I am removing is off the ground. I hope this helps. These things are rough at times to get removed. Although the blue Notorious gets treated like Kevin Talbot treats his stuff, I am sure that helps.

Thanks!

Sounds like a pretty sick build. I always dreamed as a kid of having one of the usa ones. Unfortunately I never had adult money back then! One of these days!

I would honestly have to google them. I don't attempt to memorize torque specs, things like that have a habit of being changed without notice.

Awesome! I still love both of mine. I need to make time and make a couple new video's.

Haha. Sure is surprising how well the red cats perform. Worth the money!

I will try to look into this. I haven't done anything for a while now. If I can figure out how to edit on my phone again? I am sure alot has changed.

I haven't had much time, but I did start buying pieces last night in an attempt to remake this. I don't know when I will get it completed.

I absolutely hate the smell of gear oil. Also, not everyone out there has tools and or the ability to reset wheel bearings. Also because I had been told that it couldn't be done.

@@karlriester1647 reset the wheel bearings? They're no different than front wheel bearings of 40 years ago. Turn the nut on the dual taper bearings and put the lock on.

@@markman7 What's tight on the bearing? How much drag? Not everyone is capable of doing that. I assume you know from how you are acting. Not everyone trying to do this job understands how that works. Loose or over tight will cause failure. This video was not intended for full time mechanics, but more for do it your self types that are not confident or willing to spend an hour replacing seals and cleaning up oil, and setting wheel bearings. There's more than one way to do things, but a shop says it has to be done like this and it's x $'s. Sometimes it's about saving money.

@@karlriester1647 Nice video. No problem doing this way. Just regular mechanic work. Lots of stuff in tight places working on cars. Why take something apart if you don't have to is my motto.

Thanks! This was on a Sunday morning, about 9am. Perfect timing for sure.

When the air was let out of the system mine stopped doing it. Where it was hot from the air bubble it caused it. As soon as I bleed out the air, topped it off it burped out and afterwards and was fine. I overfilled it a little bit and that caused it I believe. I haven't had any trouble since.

Mine came out the cap / overflow. Any air leak will cause one to get hot. The cap holds pressure, which raises the boiling point.

I did when bleeding the engine, then refilled and put the cap back on before starting.

You're welcome, and thanks! I have been at it far to long to accept that it can't be done faster or cheaper! It was a little tedious, but can be done.

Sure bro. Bet you can’t do simple work. Yet you plan on doing this haha

@@strykerls3740 where does it say I can't do it? Pretty sure I said I have no garage and just don't want to work on vehicles . And your gonna start shit with a 3 month old comment on changing parking brake pads? How sad is your life?

Good luck. It fixed mine. Only had it happen 1x. I rode for 30 minutes, then it was hot. Been riding for 2 years now with zero. issues

Hello from Kentucky. Pretty cool such a small video could make it that far!

Honestly not sure. You would probably have to look up what size it is and get a similar screw, or go to the dealer and get the exact one. The dealer would be crazy expensive imo.

Absolutely!

In a way he is on the remote, but I have seen traxxas remotes take that fall and be ok. It has to do with the design I believe, but that could had been a fluke? The other 2 unit's remotes had the doors broken off by adults. With all that said I still would buy this thing again, and when I buy one for my son it will most likely be a red cat. It's affordable and dependable. I can't complain!

It probably would help extend the life, but when I installed the new servos the problem went away. The original servo was under powered compared to the new servo also. It changed the whole dynamic of the steering system, and is metal geared and water proof. It is a 20kg vs the original 15. One of the other 2 units I worked on has had to have the servo replaced also. I am sure the 3rd would have, but it doesn't get used very often. They just don't hold up the best. Servos aren't ridiculous if you get them off Amazon or eBay which is why it doesn't hurt my feelings. It actually is the only part besides the body that is on borrowed time right out of the box in my opinion.

@@karlriester1647 yeah. Just installed 4 wheel steering in the E10’s I bought for my sons. If they kill the servos, I’ll throw in some cheap 25kg ones. They can be had for less than $20/pop.

I bought them on June 10 of 2019. They were $19 a pair. That was for 4. The link in my email is now almost $44 a pair. They have went way up. Sorry. They are still on the truck (stock gearing) and I still like them if that helps? store.yahoo.com/yhst-14197398381157/mad-wc1043.html

I did not find a 25kg yet. I'm going to keep looking. It appears Amazon only has the 20kg at the moment.

www.ebay.com/itm/25KG-0-07S-Waterproof-High-Torque-Metal-Gear-Coreless-Digital-Servo-For-RC-Cars-/324377860462?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

@@karlriester1647 Hey! You rock! I just lost a servo for the first time. Mine is being warrantied but I will check this out for a future upgrade. Thank you so much for sticking around an older video! Super helpful!!

@@nickwstp Your welcome!

Good luck! It really wasn't that bad. I had worked around it for about a year myself. I didn't want to spend the time on replacing seals and such.

Thanks! I am going to try to work on some more content in the near future! Some of my subscribers have given me some great ideas that I would like to try out!

I try not to bind it up and it has held up surprisingly. I let my 2 year old drive it and he managed to get it mangled up under a chair on concrete and it broke a front knuckle. It was bound up so bad it stopped turning the tires, so I wouldn't say they are invincible, but has been great otherwise.

@@karlriester1647 Awesome good to know, i plan on putting one in soon this seals the deal =)

I used the stock servo horn on my 6s v4. I do not see anything on the internet that makes me believe that this part was changed to a v5. This servo size is pretty common on most 1/8 and 1/10 scale units. I actually wrecked my truck time before last run ( about 30mph to dead stop breaking the a arms on the front crash side) and some how the servo still works. I can't believe it!

@@karlriester1647 glad to hear! will order it, thanks for responding and great videos will be following for sure.

Thanks!

Your welcome!

Right?!? That's my same opinion these are great just to play with and make your own youthful adventures... if you planning on competing on advance courses then spent that 800 on the advance models. Redcat has no issues for the average joe... perhaps not for the advance competition units

I can't argue with that thought process at all. They are very dependable and a complete blast straight out of the box! At the same time they are easy to mod and hold up well with mods also. I would not be afraid to use one in either form. I actually thought about building a scaler out of one and I think they would be extremely cool like that also. Cheap and fun, that's why I like mine!

Sorry I missed this. There is a way to do this but it is sketchy. I believe you let one run with the radiator cap off. But if it was to boil over you could get burned bad by the fluid. I would not recommend it.

It is a gorilla brand locking lug set. The key came with them.

What's your email address?

Sorry I haven't been able to comment. T hat's awesome! I always wanted the boggers. Are they the rc4wd?

Yes they are

Should just center it and check the end points. I did not have to reset any of mine. That would be the only settings that should have to be adjusted.

@@karlriester1647 thanks 👍

I honestly bought them from ebay, Brake Motive brand. They were $231 shipped to my door. I read some reviews before deciding. I have had good luck out of them. They will flat stop. I would imagine that Detroit axle or power stop would make a set also? Either way, I would purchase mine again if needed. They are 10x better than the junk I purchased at the local parts house last time I replaced my Brakes! I buy my other parts from Rockauto most of the time. I gave an extra 7 bucks for new Raybestos callipers vs cheap remans at local stores! As far as the clip it may have been luck!

@@karlriester1647 Thanks Karl 👍 I cheaped out went to local parts store bought the cheapest they had, haven't tackled the park brakes yet, waiting for parts from rock auto

Thanks!

Sounds like you are on the right path! Those are some good mods!

Extending the chassis/ upper shock mount points out makes this rig as stable as any full chassis rig. You can buy special extender or just make your own. Really suggest

Those are some really solid ideas! I might have to try that!