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I would like to have a dedicated voice assistant button on the steering wheel, which I haven't got in my Mazda 3

Could you not just remove one caliper bolt, loosen the other enough to rotate the caliper up. Leave the bracket on and put the pads in without taking everything off?

Never use a C clamp like that! Pushing on one side of the piston can damage it. Use the old pad between the piston and the clamp to push the piston in

To anyone watching this video for tips, I will give mine. I watched this video and while helpful I think there are a few things to do different. I live in NY and my 2012 Mazda 3 has 12 years of insane rust, in which his hammer trick did not work for me. First remove the shock, I had to remove mine anyhow as it was leaking oil. I was able to get on the hub bolts much easier and remove the abs plug easier in the tight spot. Second work a socket onto each bolt head to remove the rust. I am not 100% sure but I think they may have originally been 14mm, but I had to work a 16mm around first to remove rust, hit with a wire brush, and then force a 15mm on them. Once socket is on ready to turn with a breaker bar heat up the bolt with map gas, get it nice and hot, very hot, and then cool down with PB blaster and break the bolt loose, it breaks lose super easy. Then remove all 4 bolts that way. Now for the fun part. I tried his double hammer technique and it did not work. save your arms, save time and just use a big power chisel. Even using my small air compressor at about 80-90psi which only runs about 15 seconds before it needs to refill, I was able to remove the hub smooth with a long barrel Chief air chisel and did not wear myself out. Seriously the air chisel started moving the hub instantly. With a bigger compressor you can get the hub out in like a minute going back and forth. It took me a little longer to keep waiting for the compressor to refill, but not bad. One more tip, put all 4 bolts in through the center hole first, then put the new backing plate and hub on and screw them in until they catch from the front, then get a socket on them and tighten. Much easier than trying to hit the holes blindly from behind.

Nice no nonsense video! Thank you ...

it 's recommanded NOT using grease,oil or antiseize on wheel studs or bolts. Torque recommendations are for clean, dry threads.

Eine der besten Erklärungen, kompetent und sachlich. Auch ohne den Text komplett zu verstehen - sehr hilfreich.

Dude this tutorial is fuego. Appreciate you for going into deep detail & considerations. Answering questions that we aren't even thinking sometimes.

Hammer trick's a good idea! Thankfully mine just fell out on both sides, but I'll remember the trick.

Powerstop kit? I just installed this yesterday. Great video.

Cant shift those bolts. State of my slider pins. Full of rust.

Nicely explained

I laughed at the "one dew job" gives me confidence I can do it within 2 dews.

Great tutorial. Thanks for taking the time to share!!👍🍻

So, mazda 3 has hub bearings both front and rear now. used to be (for the front )wheel bearings with knuckles and wheel hub installed on the top separately. which way is better?

I haven't changed brakes in years, and this is exactly what I needed for a refresher on my 3, thank you!

Great video and thank you for the tip on rotating the hub. I don't think I would of completed the job if I hadn't seen this first.

* Warning * - I came across this warning and took note of it on my computer. I don't know if it's verified as I'm not an engineer BUT since the "fix" is so easy to perform vs the potential damage , I will do it without hesitation. * * * Before doing replacing brake pads read this: Due to ABS System , before you compress the piston in the caliper you must open the bleed valve ( attach a plastic hose to a bottle ) . If you don't do this and compress the piston in the caliper , you can send back pressure and damage the ABS control module. The average cost for an ABS Control Module Replacement is between $980 and $1,038. Labor costs are estimated between $107 and $135 while parts are priced between $873 and $903. This range does not include taxes and fees, and does not factor in your unique location. Related repairs may also be needed. Do you really want to take a chance ?

probably the best cheap mod anyone can do

Always make sure you dont damage the rotors that are getting thrown in the garbage anyway

Not one tq wrench was seen ,antisieze on hub bolts ,ah,no

Good stuff. i'f only napa gave me the right size caliper and rotor

I am struggling to push the piston back in. I used a piston compression tool but the piston resists. Any suggestion?

If you are going to replace the rotor, there's no need to worry about damaging it with the hammer and therefore protecting it with wood like that---just some info for anyone interested. This is a great video.

Feeling very confident in completing this job after watching, thank you for a very complete and informative walk-through.

Talk about a cake job compared to a Fusion/Milan/6 which are pressed in. Nice job Mazda! Tip: Just remove the caliper bracket and leave the caliper bolted to it. No need to remove caliper and bracket separately.

Very descriptive video. Great for beginners. Removing the rotors was the scourge of my existence. Ended up purchasing a gear puller to take them off. Also, I think you should insert the pads from the outside of the hardware, instead of the inside. Made it much easier to avoid touching the front. Also didn't have to fight with the hardware to get them in. I believe they are designed to be inserted in this direction.

My way of getting the axle nut out is to use a long breaker bar between lug nut and hub, sitting on the ground. Reacts the torque and doesn’t damage lug threads

i thought i needed a wheel bearing buy it seems to be loose brake pads. not sure how to fit that they are 6 months old and only 1 side it banging around over bumps

this video didnt say what signs the car had to say its the bearing

Wouldn't recommend the red thread locker, with the proper torque applied to the bolts plus amount of heat generated by the brakes, it's highly unlikely the bolts will come lose. Use the temp thread locker (blue) instead of red if you want that added security, the red is just setting you up for headaches down the line.

Pushing the piston in can be a c unt!

i like your way of rotating the hub with hammer blows..

I know this video is old, But that's the same problem I'm having.damn rust kicked my butt today, I have to start back in the morning. It was getting late working oui

Would a wheel alignment be required after the wheel bearing replacement

Do you need a new Spindle Lock Nut, after replacing the Front Wheel Bearing Hub?

Helped me out! . The rear lights like in the trunk and license plate are different for the 2017 mazda 3 grand touring. You go from the inside but anyways, made me laugh at how he used a tree leaf to help with preventing the hot bulb from burning his finger as he was pulling the bulb out because my tiny bulb for the inside dome light in the tailgate area was on because the tailgate was open and I tried using my fingers to yank it out and "oh Fuck"! So I didn't have anything and I was thinking of grabbing a leaf or something but I ended up using toilet paper and it was hard because the bulb I had was a very tiny one and slippery. Took me about 10 minutes for that one for some reason. I like them alot thanks for sharing this video for us to see

Awesome video, will come in handy this weekend

Nice video! Thanks for all the tips

great job . If your car ride in the snow it is possible you have to change the dust garde because mind was all dusty and falling a part on my CX 5 2014 so check yours and maybe order that to

What’s the torque spec mate on the bolts mate?

Will it fit for the automatic with paddle shifts?

Can we replace just the hub without replacing the bearings?

This is amazingly detailed! please do every other possible driveway job next ;)

This helped a ton! Thanks so much for posting!!!

As much as I believe in antiseize" 💥 I wouldn't put antiseize on the studs if I were you !!! 😵

Very nice video. Thank you! Was looking for the future when replacing my brakes for my Mazda. Mine is a 2017 grand touring with 23k miles on it. Eventually I'll get those type of rotors with the drilled holes in them to replace mine. So much cheaper to do stuff like that yourself then paying a shop to do it for you

Your were right about the hammer on hammer action. Usually it's dangerous to smack hammers together because they can shrapnel. I tried using punches and half inch bolt to try and move like you did, no luck. Even used an air chisel...boo. Only your method most effective.

Absolutely failed to get the heat shield and the last back-piece glued to it off- mine had a secret off-specs 25pc. ball bearing hub. Fun.

Man, my rotor is stuck on even after beating it with a hammer. Any tips?