Видео

Can you elaborate on your brief comment regarding 10% wear & aluminum swivels "giving you pause"?

Way to go Mark!

I switched from the factory supplied prusik cord to a piece of dynamic 11 mm with stopper knots so I can make it adjustable length. I trust the new piece far more than the prusik, and am fine with the liability it removes from the mfr from making the modification. Thanks for the video!

I appreciate your research into this and making it available to us! I'm going to try your idea on my chipper and see if it will throw the chips to the front of my trailer! Right now I'm having to fork the chips to the front by hand!

There's a web that is holding it

Nice project and set up you got there 👍🏻

into the weeds we go - tension vs comp. , line , rigging , loved it - thanx

Thank you.

that thing is awesome ... in this day-and-age where everyone in the tree care industry seems to be desiring Bigger and BIGGER equipment, this truck makes a lot of sense

interesting info here ... I always back mine up with a second rope

Man you make it look too easy.. but I see a mistake I’ve been making not saving the purple core strands to help at the end. I used to just get them out of the way. Still have to watch the final bury that’s been my biggest issue. Thanks for the tip and video.

Great video! I'm glad your loving the battery saws, it will be nice when the batteries can be repaired instead of recycling the entire battery when you have a bad cell

Thanks for this. It's great to know that Husqi now sells this part. I broke one a while back (my fault- rolled a log onto the saw) and my saw shop couldn't get the case. It was successfully glued back together, though.

Thank you for showing and telling all of this. I love my T540. Mine is well behind yours in wear and tear though.

Use mineral spirits it comes right off no damage to the pain or nothing

This kind of vinyl is the same thing years ago on the station wagons on the side . I used to use wax and grease remover. Prep Saul. Or WD-40. It works very well. Good luck.

That's low or bad quality vinyl. Good ones leaves little to no adhesive behind even after years. You can also see the vinyl shrunk leaving the adhesive behind and dirt getting stuck in it meaning its Calendered vinyl. Citrus based adhesive removers work very well for stuff like this. If you want stripes to last for many years and not shrink you would use a polymeric cast vinyl. They were never stretched during manufacturing so they will never shrink. All high quality wrap vinyls are made like this and the adhesive is also different and designed not to leave adhesive residue.

I removed my trucks b pillar black vinyl. It left a sticky residue that is very hard to remove. I tried wd40, mineral spirits, adhesive remover, googone, isopropyl alcohol. I tried scrapping at it with a plastic bondo scraper and some of it came off but its still on there. There has to be something better than brakekleen right?

Brakekleen will remove paint and will soften paint man I can't believe it man o man!

16:45 the old Coke Cutting Experience shows! 996 is a few years away from "Classic" Designation

You can try a steamer. That's how window tint is removed while leaving minimum amount of glue behind.

Thanks, advice well appreciated! Used to run a stainless thimble on my bridge then carabinered to that. Much smoother and spread than just ring or biner. Misplaced that so now run the Omni block 1.1 on my 7/16 kern mantle bridge w/ double fisherman knot ends. I use an intermediate small prussic to make it adjustable when needed. Knot to knot the set up is about 30”.

Almsot 2000.00 for a lanyard to help anyone who didnt understand that ?!!!thats almost cost of transmission rebuilds. Both my trucks work trucks dailys cost 3000.00 or less long bed pickup trucks i have to disagree on trusting these over seas companys america is a disaster from that..we are from different generation..most anyways..ive spared no expenses on my tree gear even as small buisness..i dont skimp .have grcs ,best tools gear you can buy ..i stand by monkey beaver. Tree motion is more for rec amd comp events..i have one.i bought the new one sent it back..they made it worse cheaper ..with elastic leg straps that pull up your privates..no comparisons to the thick webbing on monkey beaver. Its also subtle comfortable. Camp makes simaler webbing on there saddles. All those uro saddles are made to have to by gimics and replace parts ..the evo tree motion was there only decent saddle..its a shame new tribe went out of buisness. They knew what would happen if someone took over..in th i s curent society..plus all these mechanical s out there ..nothing beats good old fashioned rope tryed and true...i have a old half inch forestry pro that ive abused rigged entire trees with and negative rigged 8ft hickory logs with ..its 5 years old still going ..theres reason candain loggers used it 30 years..12 strand is great rope ..wouldnt hesitate to use it for bridge..i lifted a 40ft limb of a house with that rope tied to porta wrap and pick up truck.stuff is very strong..game of trees kevin ham has website that sells all gear ropes has 5/8 and 3/4 12 strand forestry pro. .amazing rope becauseyou dont need hardware can natural crotch ..it..love that rope ..i have stable braids and 3/4 5/8 but its much more strechy .and way high priced for haveing to set up blocks all the time ..if could go back intime wpuld have just got all 12 strand .or static sterling ..just saying ..another issue is most local shops unless you live in 2 major citys you cant ever realy try gear out you have to buy all this new stuff then send it back and wait ..or take a chance on it..many issues today ..god bless

Another thing why dont they make wire core bridges ..

I swapped out mine for dynamic 11mm rope that they use in rope access work for fall arrest lanyards/cow tails. Very long lasting great under pressure from a ring, knots well zero abrasion. The bridge I replaced was just a petzl rope bridge look like just a bit of static kernmantle stitched, in a sort time it was looking glazed it was very stiff. So replaced, I’m aware it’s not factory but I feel it’s superior, in my humble opinion. I’ve been contract climbing for twenty years, which means nothing when it comes to manufacturing safety equipment but it looks to be holding up great, I’ll replace shortly and check out the internals. it’s actually gives a tiny bit too, which is great on the back!!

Well done Thanks

Looks good, that will do the trick! Plywood for the back stop?

How stinking cute

Mark great job - always wondered if manufacturer's bridge material is required to maintain equipment certification too, like CE (Teuf sold CE lanyard as package with cert at one time - not sure if they. still do). For folks, here are some cross links to a Mark Bridge inspection video: ruclips.net/video/m3SFAVDkYsk/видео.html and to some for fun, yank tests on new vs old bridges: ruclips.net/video/-Cii3xhS_80/видео.html Would love to do Fids and Fibers some day. Everybody stay safe out there. Cheers.

Excellent review of a very complicated subject!

That explained so much, thank you!

That’s awesome man.. I’ve always wanted 1 of those trucks. I would drive it daily around town and out of town if they go 55mph? Idk if they do or not.

❤

Badass man

Hi Mark! Thanks for this one!

This rope is interesting stuff, especially the high-tech fibers. Even within the Dyneema family there are a number of different flavors with varying strength, creep resistance, tenacity etc. For rope used in true rigging, I only see Dyneema and Dyneema-like fibers. Cortland Plasma 12 seems to be the most popular and I imagine Amsteel Blue as second. Some shops are using Endura 12. It's run on pulling and crane winches, although I still see mostly wire rope on cranes. Regardless of the application, the user must understand how to inspect and when to take it out of service. For rigging slings I wouldn't want to buy plain 12-strand Dyneema because it gets full of dirt, rocks etc. Of course if it receives a non-removable jacket...there goes and chance of inspection. But best to get a tight braided jacket on there to protect the rope. Some rigging companies like Holloway Houston have a braiding machine that will place a tight polyester or Dyneema jacket along the entire sling (eyes and body). I figured as tough as 3/8" Dyneema 12-strand is, I'd try it on my bridge with a Petzl Adjust. I knew there'd be limitations with the eye splice and such but it also didn't jive with the Adjust. The braid was too loose and it wouldn't feed very well thru the Adjust. I ended up with the Adjusts because of something else, but I do realize Petzl sells a bridge assembly with their rope and the Adjust. On my saddle I decided to double up the cordage for the bridge, meaning the spliced eye and the Adjust are on the same ring on the saddle. I've got some 9.5mm Arbospace Thunder now which I believe is a nylon core with a Technora/Poly blended jacket. I was going to try a 5ft Bee Line split tail but I can see that those stiff Vectran fibers could be more brittle over time and small bend radii. Of course Yale touts very good fatigue/bending strength. Who knows. One good thing about an adjustable bridge is that it changes length over time, changing most of its bearing points. Check out Tycan synthetic chain by Green Pin (Van Beest). They have Dyneema based chain with WLL ratings up to 22,600#. Just links made out of laminated Dyneema webbing.

What is the special problem with using a swivel on a rope bridge? Is it better to use a large ring instead of a swivel on the rope bridge?

Great information thanks for posting this. I am guilty of tying my own bridge(s) but I buy name brand rope bridge, specifically Teuf. Where they sew the tail to keep it pulling through. Also I use a backup prusik cord that’s a little bit longer than the primary bridge so it serves only as a fail safe and is not under tension or compression unless the primary fails.

Really good stuff here. I got a ton outta this.

You bring up some very important points about using materials that have not been tested. It's a bit misleading to say climbers shouldn't tie their own rope bridges. Many manufacturers send replacement bridges that the climber ties on themselves. We also tie life support knots multiple times a day. I think you meant that we shouldn't just tie any rope on our saddles and assume it is good enough.

I like the tree motion bridges cause there so quality with the whipped stick ends and melted so well, perfect diameter also

With working application of rope, would use as a lanyard be similar to use as a bridge? I understand that the bend radius would be different, but the force and abrasion is concentrated in one area of the rope.

Wonderful content! Thanks for putting this out there. I climb on the Petzel Sequoia SRT saddle and have put a secondary bridge on it using a portion of a 16 strand minus core with knots on end, but when I’m 40-50 feet up I just can’t get comfortable trusting it for reasons you laid out, I’ll be replacing it with a rated Petzel bridge

Fascinating! Thanks for sharing.

Some suggestions..thanks for video

Hi Mark, Enjoying your four part series on treescaping. You provided both inspiration and advice that will guide my efforts in our back yard - thank you!

Hey Mark, excellent video for this addicted splicer. I am still not sure what to think about this splice compared to the traditional double-braid splice. It is obviously thinner and more flexible, but if it is not as strong I am not sure it is worth the additional effort. But I am open to switching over if you think there is good reason to do so.

What is your camera???

It is nice to see you back in business again Mark! There is nothing like working face-to-face with people again.

Hey Mark, Greetings from soggy Oregon. I just came across your video about the splicing workshop today. How did it go?