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waboom2
Добавлен 30 май 2013
Cold start rattle 2014 Accord 2.4 Earth Dreams K24 ... SOLVED!
Honda TSB 19-019
Had cold start rattle/chain slap on '14 Accord 2.4L. I thought it was the VTC actuator, but it was the cam chain tensioner. Easy to replace. Less than $75.
Honda TSB 19-019
part# 14510-5A2-A02 (cam chain tensioner)
08717-1194 (Hondabond 4 sealant)
Had cold start rattle/chain slap on '14 Accord 2.4L. I thought it was the VTC actuator, but it was the cam chain tensioner. Easy to replace. Less than $75.
Honda TSB 19-019
part# 14510-5A2-A02 (cam chain tensioner)
08717-1194 (Hondabond 4 sealant)
Просмотров: 20 082
Видео
Screamin' Jimmy Detroit Diesel seize up.
Просмотров 1714 года назад
Screamin' Jimmy Detroit Diesel seize up.
2014 Honda Accord 2.4 Earth Dreams coolant pipe leaking
Просмотров 8 тыс.4 года назад
I had a leaking "Water Pump Connecting Pipe" on my 2014 Accord. Easy fix. Part No.: 19505-5A2-A02 Pipe, Connecting Part No.: 91314-PR7-A00 O-Ring (37.2X4.25) (2 needed)
Champion Radiator review in '51 Mercury.
Просмотров 764 года назад
My car never went above 190° until I installed this Champion Ace radiator in my 1951 Mercury Flathead V8. With this radiator it quickly went to 225° and was rising. This radiator has a significant design flaw. "Direct fit" doesn't always mean direct fit. I don't recommend it.
Oil catch can 2.4 Earth Dreams Honda Accord
Просмотров 12 тыс.4 года назад
This is how I installed the oil catch can on my 2014 Honda Accord.
2014 Honda Accord 2.4 Earth Dreams cold start rattle
Просмотров 15 тыс.4 года назад
Here is a video of my start up rattle. I don't know if this is the timing chain/VTC rattle that was on the previous generation of the 2.4 or not. Can you give me any input on this issue?
Trailer Park Boys if you suck ONE cock
Просмотров 3,1 тыс.5 лет назад
Hilarious joke Ricky tells Julian in the Pilot video
Thank you for this video. Just picked up a 2015 Accord Sport that may have had an incident on the front end. I noticed as I got the car home and let it run, i could smell engine coolant but couldn't exactly tell where it was coming from. I guess I'll find out soon enough tomorrow.
Wow, you didn’t need hose clamps
That is a common Honda problem with the Honda accord’s and handa CRV’s
21mm 6-point Socket once they swell up.
Nicely done!
so the PIPE needs to be changed along with the 2 O rings?
Yes
Our car rattles as well during cold start. Do I have to do one of these repairs or it is OK to leave it and drive the car?
This pipe is designed to fail at the O rings sides,it sucks,i replaced my pipe twice on honda ballade 150i,you can not buy 2nd hand part front the breakers yard because of serious corrrosion of the lips where o ring fits on,so you have to buy new and new pipe does not come with o rings you have to order it seprately,that why i say this honda product sucks you money delibrately, designer obsoletes,you have to run anti rust coolant,not pure water or use anti corrosive,not all anti freeze coolant are corrosive free.
its been a couple of years. has still been good?
since this part of the engine was designed poorly, you will need to replace it again eventually. I just replaced my cam chain tensioner in my 2014 Honda Accord for the 2nd time. Mine historically has gone bad every 80-90k miles. I keep a good eye on my oil and don't do anything outside of normal city and highway driving. Just replaced my cam chain tensioner less than 500 miles ago and im getting a rattle again. Looking to fix the VTC actuator next..
@waboom2 Do I have the same problem with my car do you think? ruclips.net/video/jC5HtZ3s5ic/видео.htmlsi=pIwGUZeOiMoTeaDs
can you show us how to fix burning oil?
Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcase and in the gas tank. Drive it like you stole it for 400 miles. Then Motor flush for 10 minutes at idle. Change the oil. Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcase and gas tank... drive it like stole it. = huge improvement.
@@waboom248 I will do what you told me this summer, is the accord still burning oil?
@@jae7230 no more oil burning.
@@jae7230 built up carbon in the piston rings is usually the cause of oil burning. Getting the carbon build up out of the rings allows them to seal the compression better and usually fixes it. Fuel injector cleaner in the gas also helps clean thing up too.
thanks, I think I had something problem.
"You sucked a cock?"
Can chain tensioner
Where did you get the part
It was either Majestic, or collegehills.
i work changing oil on these Earth Dream 2.4 engines, they are very notorious for being so loud upon initial start up after an oil change.
Yes it happens to my car
I got this problem on my 2016 accord sport just over 100k miles hopefully it’s a simple fix
How do you install the tube? Do I need a stapler?
Yes ... a stapler
how do you fix the clicking noise from the accord’s earth dreams-engine?
By far the best engine, I live in the north and those -45 morning and night it never gave up!
Same problem, I’m thinking to change the O rings without pipe. Thanks for stepping out and share this video. Apart of this, anyone could figure out how to fix the engine oil consumption?
A whole bottle of Marvel Mystery oil in the crankcase, fuel injector cleaner in the gas for 3 tanks in a row. And drive in like you stole it. Then change the oil. It cured my oil consumption. I swear to God.
really? you cured the oil consumption? thanks .
where’d you order the parts from? i have the same issue with my 2017 right now.
It was either Majestic (hondaautomotiveparts.com) or collegehillshonda.com
It was the VTC actuator or the tensionner ? Thanks in advance!
It was the tensioner.
I was about to replace my VTC actuator until I saw your video by chance. Picked a tensioner up at the dealer for $80 and swapped it out - noticed the screen was clipped onto the old tensioner (wouldn't have noticed it if I hadn't read on thy comments here to check for it). It's been quite on starting up, so I won't be attempting the VTC unless i start hearing something on cold starts again. I realize now that I need to keep an eye on my o level too. I had been going 10K between oil changes..... I'll change that to every 5K now. Thank you so much for posting!
Did it work for you? I bought the cam chain tensioner, just waiting for my day off to get to it. What does that mean, about the screen being attached to the old cam chain tensioner?
@@FreddyPrieto94 it was quiet for a while and then started to slowly make noise again. Then I realized that I was using the wrong oil viscosity. Changed it out for the correct oil and its been fine. The screen is basically a thin plate that gets sandwiched between the tensioner and the engine block. Mine was free and easy to notice, but I could see how it could stick to either the old part or the engine block.
@@royalmotors cool, thanks for the reply. I changed the cam chain yesterday, also did the valve cover gasket. My car started up sounding like if it was brand new, I have 298k miles. I’ll probably replace the whole chain kit once I get to 400k
@@FreddyPrieto94 Hi, what year model is your accord? and how is been working since you put the tensioner? thanks!
@@alanlrst5044 2014 accord sport. It’s driving good. I’m currently at 320k miles. I messed up the tensioner job, after I finished it, the next day I noticed the filter was on the old tensioner. So I tried to take it out the cam chain tensioner out again to put the filter back on. I wasn’t able to get it off this time. I decided to just leave it how it was. The noise is back, but not as often. Ima just get the whole chain and vtc and chain done at a shop once I pay off my debt lol. Car drives great tho, so no rush
I have a 2013 honda accord, and from past few times on every cold start right after 1-2 seconds after starting the car will make a one time metalic rattling sound and does a big jerk one time only strong enough to make you feel the whole car just shook And than everything goes to normal even if i turn off the car right that moment and restart it, it starts perfectly. I been trying to find like crazy that what could be reason?
Your mechanical tensioner is completely worn/maxed out. After a couple seconds the oil pressure takes over and tensions it. The reason it runs rough and bucks is because the cam/valve timing is not right for those moments. I'm surprised it doesn't throw a misfire code. What you describe seems to be severe, and your chain is probably stretched. Replace the tensioner NOW. If that doesn't fix it, it is your VTC actuator. You gotta decide how much you care about this car because the damage will continue and if the chain jumps a tooth or breaks... You'll be shopping junkyards for a motor or buying a different car.
Thanks a ton brother for making this video. I looked at the same location and confirmed it was the o-ring leaking
You're welcome.
Did you have any leaks on top of your water cooler? I just had the wifes accord in for an oil change and they're saying that the water cooler is leaking. Want 900$ to replace that. Never leaked a drop of coolant but it is wet in this general area.
I gotta be honest, I've never heard of a "water cooler" on an automobile.
@@waboom248was a first for me also but then looked up the part and it’s actually a part… 😅
@@WiscoSledheads I doubt it.
I replaced the timing chain tensioner on my 2014 2.4L couple days back. Strangely the screen attached to back of tensioner was missing. My VIN number is lower than the range specified on technical bulletin and I am not sure if that was the reason.
Hey there, mine is also lower than the range, i haven't opened it yet, but, did replacing the tensioner solved the rattle at startup in your case? if so, it hasn't come back? thank you in advance!
would this be the same thing for my Honda accord 2008?\
I believe the V6 engines have a similar pipe in the engine valley.
That is correct and it's a BITCH to pull off due to the coolant manifold, and lack of being able to see wth is happening in the valley.
Well... all car have weaknes , the weak parts on this generation accord are not horrable. #1 Starter , #2 idle belt pully and after 115k alternator give up. The power train and trasmission are exelent and that is when things get very expencer to fix . that is when the Accord holding very strong , I never have a problem with coolant pipe but next maintance schedule i will change it , just in case. it dosen't look very labor envolve and that pipe can't be to expensive. thank you again and good luck with your Accord.
Would this be the same for a 2013 accord 2.4, i saw the tsb 19-019 and that says for 2014, should i just replace the vtc or the tensioner first
The tensioner is way easier to do. I would start there.
And yes the tensioner is the same on the 2013.
@@waboom248 okay, do you have a link or something to where honda says to adjust the tensioner 2 clicks? cause i saw you said that in your other video but can’t find anything on it
2013 and some of 2014 VINs may not have the screen filter attached to tensioner. At least my 2014 car did not have the screen and my VIN was not listed in TSB.
can you build this engine to go faster?
Lol. Yes, anything is possible with money.
@@waboom248 yeah but ion really see any after market fo this engine
Do you need a lift to do this or I can just use a jack stand?
No lift needed. It can be done with stands, as long as you know how to use them properly.
Thanks. I have been using it for oil change in garage. That’s good to know that I will have enough space to work on it. Pretty straight forward when I checked the TSB that you provided. Any tips? Did you also have to replace the filter or just cleaned it?
Good video. Yours is the best one of all. short and sweet, to the point. I have the same engine on my accord. Thank you
Why change the pipe when only the O rings are leaking?
I bought the pipe because I didn't know at the time that it was the o-rings. Didn't want the car to be down more than 1 day.
do you have video on how to change the chain tensioner
No I don't, but it is very easy. Look this up : Honda TSB 19-019
If it that easy why does not the manufacturer put one on or fix the problem in the first place. will doing this cause problems with the pollution required test in some states. (emissions) no car should be losing or burning oil after it leaves the assembly line.
Every engine produces oil/water/gas vapors that accumulate in the crankcase. That is what the PCV system is for. Normally thos is ok to send these gases back through the intake, but on a direct injection engine the crankcase gases cause carbon build up on the back side of the intake valves. D. I. valves don't get any fuel mixture flowing onto/past them so they get caked up.
what is the model can you used for this that has a drain port at the bottom with the lever? I can not find it on Amazon.
www.amazon.com/RJSPHH-Baffled-Universal-Separator-Aluminum/dp/B09B62GRV4/ref=asc_df_B09B62GRV4?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80195747194026&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=m&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583795276401897&psc=1
Hi. anyone here using an oil catch can where winter is freezing cold and long ? how about water freezing inside the can ? I read it can give one trouble... thanks
Yeah I do. It gets down to -30°F here and our winter is famous for being among the harshest in the lower 48. I haven't had a problem with this "frozen catch can problem". I have read about it though. But seriously, every time I have ever popped the hood open and felt the can it is warm to the touch. It's not straight water in the can any way. It's combo of gas/oil/water vapor.
Check your battery voltage. Mine was at 12.2 then I charged it full. Sound gone
You want me to check my battery? The start up rattle is gone after I replaced the tensioner.
Air up your tires mine were at 28 lbs LOL
Better than $5,700 used
I don't know that means.
what catch can is this?
Does this issue correlate to oil pressure? Or anything oil related?
Oil pressure keeps the tensioner tight when the engine is running, but ratchet/spring mechanism keeps it tight during start up.
@@waboom248 thanks for the information
U know good and well it's not easy..
It's easy.
Is that a 2.4?
Lol
Can you share the link of the product you used, I will install on my 2019 TLX..
Any chance you have the diagram for the hoses that connect to the housing assembly? Or some sort of guide? Specifically the two that go into the back that are clipped together? I want to make sure I am reconnecting them back the way they came off and I stupidly did not take a picture before I took it apart.
I know you can look up blown up parts schematics on majestichonda and other parts suppliers. Basically just search for the part and click the pictogram.
@@waboom248 Thank you!
That is the proper way to route it, but ideally you should use a vented catch can rather than running it inline like this. One feed line from the PCV into a single port vented catch can. The breather on the can allows vapors to vent out; with a sealed can run inline like this you still get some oil sent back into the intake manifold in the form of vapor which kind of defeats the purpose because you will still get the adverse effects of oil in your intake tract. On a DI engine such as the Earth Dreams its even more critical because no fuel is being sent through the intake manifold to clean oil deposits, so buildup occurs. Also it is very beneficial to buy a catch can with a drain valve so you can just open the valve and drain the oil versus a can that you have to remove and/or open and pour the caught oil out.
you have any catch can model to share?
Wouldn’t it cause a vacuum leak with a breather??
@@RoqueM64 maybe the universal eBay ones but any good quality setup will have a check valve which permits air pressure in only one direction. It’s not just an open air source.
@@kennethpowers8995 im about to install one right now and I can and just block off the breather on top. But I just want to know exactly which hose goes in and which hose goes out.
@@kennethpowers8995any recommendations for a quality catch can? I’m looking at mishimoto
Should make the video while doing the installation, would be more clear to understand. Thank for the video anyway.
I described it pretty clearly.