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You can do it either way, but usually the tail is used to measure the depth of a hole.

Unlike most imperial lathes, the Grizzly dials are marked .060" per revolution. This makes the dials easier to read; however, careful measurement of displacement after 10 revolutions shows only .590" of travel. A little investigation reveals that the lead screw pitch for the cross slide and tailstock is actually 1.5mm, a common setting found any lathe which can cut metric threads. This makes sense when you consider that the reciprocal of .060 [that is: threads/inch] is an irrational number (16.6666666666...). You certainly won't find that setting on any imperial lathe!

@5tr41ghtGuy thank you for the reply. This king version is marked .001 per tick. No mention of this in the king literature hence my confusion.

@@bf19881988 looking at the measurements you reported for 10 turns, .680" is near to 1.75mm pitch [would be .689" exactly], and .480" is near to 1.25mm pitch [would be .492" exactly]. Are your measurements accurate to .001", and did you take care to omit backlash in the measurement? If a lead screw has a pitch of 1.75mm, then a single graduation on 100 tick the dial would be .0175mm, or .0007" . Neither of those are useful increments, so maybe your lathe is equipped with the wrong lead screw + dial combinations?

I composed and recorded that music, so no more takedowns due to copyright violation.

I'm merely checking to make sure I have at least .002"+ of clearance. I am fully aware of the limitations of calipers.

I checked with a feeler gauge, and my lathe didn't have the gib issue.

Lo diseñé y construí yo mismo.

Yes, it does feel good. The lathe has been working beautifully since I did this.

Yes, in the form of three grub screws with lock nuts exposed on the right side of the cross slide.

Best of luck, and happy turning!

Glad you found your problem, and it sounds like an easy fix. Happy turning!

Hi Jeremy, My lathe is about 5 years old, but the defect was from the factory. The problems manifest as causing inconsistent resistance to travel in the cross slide and less stiffness resulting in greater likelihood of chatter. It's worth checking your lathe with a marking pen.

Yes, you do need to disassemble, inspect and & clean/deburr as necessary. In this particular case the surface on the saddle which I filed is not supposed to touch the cross slide; the fact that it did caused the height of the cross slide to change slightly as it moved across the saddle, and reduced the stiffness of the setup. Stuff like this is not all that noticeable unless you are cutting a wide chip (like parting off), or turning hardened steel. Good luck with your future acquisition!

Measuring tells me how much I need to file, and where. Ultimately the cross slide must not touch, thus the final check.

DIY machinists usually can't afford a lathe which will perform "like it supposed to" in every way, especially on harder materials like stainless steel or hardened carbon steels. As far a choosing between the G0765 and G0602, it's all down to what size parts you will be turning. For smaller parts, small lathes are a better choice for price and convenience. If unsure, buy the bigger lathe. I don't use DRO myself, but may people find it useful and convenient. Best of luck!

yes get a DRO.

Andrei "tongue weight" doesn't really apply since I did not use a trailer hitch receiver. In the video at the 19 second point you can see the adaptor I designed and fabricated, and the attachment to the frame with a bolt on the right is clear. What is not clear is that further towards the back of the car the adaptor is welded to the bumper bracket on both sides. This is far stronger than any hitch receiver you could buy for this car, probably because the car has very little towing capacity. ruclips.net/video/o25MfIF8QvA/видео.html

@@5tr41ghtGuy Thanks for the details John - much appreciated. I did noticed those good changes, I just wasn't sure about the details ;) - still I wanted to check if you were ever concerned the frame might not hold (I heard some people talk like nagging midwives, but personally I don't think the car engineers were that reckless to make the frame at the limit - I bet they have a hefty safety factor built into them). Does the BOLT cross all the way through the frame in the trunk? Did you add anything more than a washer, like a wider/thick metal plate to make sure that it sits on a firm surface? I am actually planning a very similar mounting system and I want to build a parallelogram lift (it has two rails like forks in the corners, when undone the forks sit near the ground and the bike is away from the trunk. The parallelogram folds towards the front and as it folds, the forks are closing in, lifting the bike up and tucking it close to the trunk. I want to use a ViaAir compressor and air pistons for the lift - if that compressor is powerful for air suspensions, I bet it can take care of a motorcycle lift).

@@cubul32 the bolt you can see attaching to the frame actually threads into a piece of 1/4" plate which I drilled and tapped, then slipped into frame through one of the existing large holes. It is like a nut only I made it as large as I could and still slip it into the frame. To avoid overstressing the frame, make sure and attach each side at two separate places which are spread apart as far as practical. The point near the back will be stressed in tension, while the point towards the front will be in compression. If you were to attach at only one point on each side, then there would be a very large bending moment which would likely bend the stiffeners that we are calling the "frame". Best of luck to you!

@@5tr41ghtGuy Yup! Exactly. I'm thinking of extending some "arms" of square tubing as far back and as far front as I can to reduce the stress and compression; I like how you used the bumper's structural piece - I'm def using that :D . I have to do some physics calculations but I'm building it very solid, spreading over as much area, using thicker plates if needed, welding stuff and whatnot.

Your channel looks cool! I checked your videos, and could not find one about a bike carrier.

the video is called "$40 diy dirt bike hitch carrier " ill send you a link but usually goes on spam

ruclips.net/video/HeyVjZ1ecdI/видео.html

Thanks, man! The car seems to handle fine for normal driving, though I wouldn't suggest hot-rodding with a bike back there :-)

Thanks, man!

Thanks Luke. That design requires a custom adapter underneath the vehicle, but it does provide a very sturdy connection.