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They will auto balance if you have the settings done properly and this happens once the cells reach set values. The manual balance button seems to be unnecessary. I make sure my cells are balanced every 7-10 days, or the risk of the SOC falling off a cliff is high. I have seen drops from 60% to 15% when not balanced. It only takes one cell to bring everything down. You can manually balance with a touch of the button once the pack is at 98% or higher (again depending on settings).

Always great to know the series is helping people out. I haven't tried to access more than one pack at a time, as I haven't needed or wanted to. I just upload any SW changes I want to each pack, one at a time and leave them do their job of saving me money. Andy on off grid garage has a video on it if you need to see what is happening with the packs daisy-chained. By the way, the method of power connection is not relevant to your question. Only the comms connection matters for your question. I have 3 pack now connected by BusBar and they communicate the same way regardless.

@@GaryMeatsLife Thank you! Do you know if the batteries are working together properly for communication with your inverter via CAN?

@@halogen25 Yes, the comms are working fine. In fact, if the batteries are all switched off and I switch on the main battery, the other batteries then turn on. I've only recently discovered this, so I will be seeing if it makes any difference with regards to discharge rates.

It depends on what you are looking for and why you are doing 4p instead of 2p. As long as you get the voltage and capacity you want, everything else is just optimisation, management and aesthetics. I wouldn't be the person to advise on this.

Done in a later video.

Not sure what you mean by pre-charging the inverter. The inverter powers on when there is solar and/or there is a battery connected to it, assuming the isolator switches are on. Maybe you meant pre-charging the batteries? If so, no it is not necessary to do this, but it is advised to get them fully charged as soon as you start using them for your system. The batteries need to regularly top balance, or what will often happen is the state of charge can drop from as high as 50% to 10% (common with LiFePO4 cells if not cycled often) and nobody wants that to to happen when the alternative is paying for expensive grid electricity.

I won’t judge people if they don’t clean their windows 🙂. Seriously though. It’s not something that needs mentioning. The line of information needs to stop somewhere and if I have to suggest window cleaning, I may as well tell people they should recycle the packaging.

Try a different browser and try again tomorrow. If that doesn’t work, you should ask Seplos directly. There could be an issue with their site.

@@GaryMeatsLife Thanks a lott it was a site glitch :) one more question did you configured bluetooth app? if Yes then please let me know how you have configured it. Also did you calculated the standby current draw from the inverter? I am trying to get one.

@@SandeepSharma-lv3pk Everything I have done is recorded here. I don't use bluetooth with mine. The Wi-Fi is the better option, as you can access it anywhere. Check the settings in the videos I have posted and if something is not covered, I am happy to add to that.

Check out the BMS videos I have in the series. The pack without the balancer won’t balance. You’ll also need to confirm your software is up to date, as the old software was terrible. Andy on Off Grid Garage covers this software update on his channel.

Hey Bob. This is the section you want in the wiring video => ruclips.net/video/HO1wgsbChfA/видео.htmlsi=ho4sm8w5EPZVKeQC&t=800 The correct connections from left to right are: 2 pin connector = red/black . Connects to rocker switch on cover. 4 pin connector = red/yellow/white/black . Connects to active balancer. 4 pin connector = black/yellow/white/red . Connects to LCD Everything you need is in the wiring video. Good luck.

@@GaryMeatsLife Thank you so much Gary. You are a gent of the first order!

@@MatthewJoseph-q3f Thanks for the question. I hadn’t seen the previous one until you asked about it. Answered below.

You will need to select the "user defined" option. The Battery needs to connected to the comms and all signals need to be connected. Try a different comms cable to rule out that potential issue. Beyond that, your BMS settings will may need to be looked at. Lead acid batteries are an entirely different setup to what I use, which is LiFePO4 with Seplos V3 BMS.

@ Thanks for replying. Actually when i connect with bluetooth then i can see the SOC but in wifi plant overview and on the inverter screen it is not showing. That is why i am curious that battery settings might be ok but data logging is not correct

@@omerqasimali Lead acids typically don't have CAN BUS, so maybe that's why you can't get the SOC on the inverter screen.

Understanding the parameter is not what these videos are intended for. Getting your batteries working is the design purpose. There is a lot of confusion about parameters and what they do, so I just keep it simple here and share what I use and I hope that gives people what they need.

Your inverter will only see the first battery and the batteries will then communicate with eachother via their daisy-chain comms connection. It is normal for batteries to be at different percentages, especially if you have connected them by daisy-chain method. There is an improvement when using a central bus bar. The best thing to do is make sure your all your battery packs have good parameters set and equally as important, you should get them to a full charge at least once per week. If you are able to fully charge and fully discharge in the next cycle, you will top and bottom balance them, but the economics of this will depend on your system, or more to the point, the type of tariff you are on with your electricity provider. I have a 4 hour window to charge my batteries, so I tend not to drain mine and try keep them above 50% if possible for the darker months. I too am still learning and I am considering another method for keeping the batteries closer to the same state of charge.

@@GaryMeatsLife Thanks for answer. It makes good sense. Please tell me a little more about the central bus bar. It sounds good. It is a good saying "Learning by doing" I thinh we all do this🤩

It definitely seems to be due to the product being inferior. Serves me right for being drawn to a fancy volt meter. Next video might look at costs, or making doors for the cabinets if the temps dip low.

Thanks for letting me know. There is definitely an improvement with the busbar, but my understanding was that by adding a busbar, the batteries would charge and discharge at the very same rate. I might experiment later and calculate the overall distance of cable each battery connector must travel before hitting the final busbar connector. If I add more cable to battery 2 and more again to battery 1 so that each battery has the same length of cable to travel to the inverter, there should be no reason for uneven discharge rates.

Yes, of course there is always a chance the connection becomes loose, or there is a poor mechanical connection due to crappy equipment, which is what I suspect happened. I had checked the connections the day after and gave them another twist to make them tight. I planned to check again at months end, but this had already happened. The reason for the arcing, is the low voltage rating. So when the fuse blew, the low voltage rating allowed the arc to form and melt the cover. Fascinating stuff, but I am glad the equipment is not inside the house. The new fuse holder is a much safer design. No issues there and it's still solid (checked this morning). If it did fail, it would be less likely to lead to any arcing due to the rating now being above the voltage of the system. Check your connections man.

I would assume it's 10mm flex, but I don't honestly know. The inverter was commissioned by an electrician and as such, I just let that work be done without much interest from my side. I don't know where you're from, but in Ireland, we are not allowed open the cover of the consumer unit and the AC cable for the inverter is out of sight behind the cement board, so I don't know what was used and I haven't been curious enough to check. I can say that it's on a 32A breaker, which makes sense to me, as it's a 5kW inverter and below 25A. The Solis 6kW unit is also fine on a 32A breaker, as it is also at around 25A or below to meet the NC6 requirements for export to the grid. Only when you go to the 8kW+ inverter might you need a 40A breaker. Separately, my EV charger is a 7kW unit and draws up to 32A, so that is on a 40A breaker and shared priority switch with my Triton T90 is a 9kW shower, so that needs a 40A breaker. I think the heaters (2) in the T90 are 4.5kW units, but they would rarely, if ever actually pull that. I haven't observed the shower pull more than 7kW on full power.

Good questions, some of which have been put to Seplos and the answers have not been consistent. This is why DIYers have had to experiment with these. The descriptions in the parameters are unclear in many cases and some do not do what they should when changed. I suspect this is due to default software being updated with description changes remaining the same even if the parameter no longer applies. All I can say is the settings I have shared are working for me, with the exception of an inverter frequency alarm I get when the pack is at 100%. I am working on a solution, but the pack functions perfectly fine.

@ I guess all we can do is change things and observe what happens. I’ve put together a spreadsheet of all of the parameters, the descriptions from the BMS 3.0 manual (which are frequently different), the default values per the manual or from my battery manual, and your recommended settings. I’ll add comments if I learn more what each setting actually does.

@@haysdbPlease share anything useful you learn. I’ll keep the settings up to date in the description

@@GaryMeatsLife 👍

OV Battery alarms were being triggered daily.

@@GaryMeatsLife is this because the inverter was not in sync with the BMS? It was overcharging the battery? So increasing the BMS Over Voltage settings brought things into alignment?

@@dumitruluca5119 If all the connections are correct, I would follow the recommendation of the engineer. PCB may need to be replaced?

Thank you for considering my querry. Seplos promissed to send me free PCB replacements. Hope to get the BMS repaired/replaced if the problem isn’t there where they are suspecting.

I think the answer is in the question.

@@GaryMeatsLifeNo. When will the pack voltage ever trigger at 57.6v when the cell voltage is set to 3.60? One cell will always trigger charging to stop before the pack ever hits 57.6v. Wouldn’t you want the cell voltage to be slightly higher than the pack voltage, to allow one cell to get close to 3.65 without shutting off charging? This is how the default is set that you’ve overridden.

@ The first video shows the original settings which were conservative. The pack voltage is back to default. With the existing settings, my pack is reaching 100% SOC and is balancing. I am still experimenting with this, but for proper testing, I wait at least a month before making any software changes.

@@GaryMeatsLife was it not balancing with the default settings? I have two Seplos 104-L 10.6 kWh batteries on the way. They have 2A active balancing. The sales guy mentions needing to set things up right to get active balancing to work but hasn’t answered my question about how to specifically do that. As far as I know there is no button to trigger active balancing, but it seems like the Cell Diff Pressure Alarm and Recovery would take care of turning it on and off. Have you done anything with the low voltage settings? According to the battery manual Battery Under Voltage Protection is set to 40.0. This is way too low. Cell Under Voltage Protection is set to 2.7, which is reasonable.

No. If it has not turned off after a couple of hours by itself, then it it is likely you have not connected it into the right seat.

No problem. I'll keep Luke in mind for the next car video 😎

@@sub3marathonman788 The reason for using the blower fuse location is that I know these pathways are only energised when the car is powered on. I didn’t want to use an always on fuse and I didn’t want to start fishing for other locations when I knew from the cover which location to tap. This is why the fuse kits are included. Not everyone has a multimeter, so I chose the easiest hardwire installation method that most people can easily follow.

@@GaryMeatsLife This video is so greatly appreciated. Exactly what I needed. Now I just need to wait until April so it’s warm enough to actually do the install. Thanks again.

@@MatthewJoseph-q3f What if you needed it before April? Put on a warm coat and you'll be done in no time. You'll be glad you did. Half the work is inside the car with the door closed 😁. Of course, if where you live is -20 degrees Celsius, I understand. Best of luck with the install.

Use the settings in the video. Updated settings are in the description. Then let the pack charge to 100% and it will auto balance.

Thank you

@@kenbone4535 The whole video series is based on the Seplos and Solis combination, including Seplos BMS configuration. Take a look at the other videos in the series and you should see what you need. They are set in order, so maybe skip the first 2 videos, which are build and wiring ones.

@@GaryMeatsLife many thanks, ive watched most of them over a few times 😁 whats your can setting in the BMS itself, to make it work with the Solis. Thx

BTW I'm running an old leaf 24 pack that I've repurposed.

@@kenbone4535Plyontech protocol as standard. As it’s the default, I hadn’t mentioned it.

@@kenbone4535 brilliant. I had two of those cars. Currently our second EV is a 40kWh Leaf. I do hope that battery is not in the house. I keep my LiFePO4 outside even though they are very safe.

ruclips.net/video/Ex8SXszAVLs/видео.htmlsi=g0PsZAH-NFBCPkUC&t=450 Timestamp 7:30 you can see line 102 and it is indeed 57.6V Also note I set my inverter to 99% for full SOC as I had been getting grid OV-ILLC alarms when the pack was at peak voltage. My packs seem to be doing very well with full charges, no alarms and no sudden voltage drops. You can achieve the same cell voltage by changing the 3.5V setting to 3.465V

One more hint to all of us. I have enquired from Seplos and they told me how to make active balancer activate automatically. Actually, it is activated by Cell difference pressure(Voltage) alarm set in Parameter 100. In my case and also yours it was factory set to 500mV. So changing this setting to 50mV will be activating active balancer at 50mV Cell voltage difference even when active balancer is off. Recovery parameter 101 need to be adjusted accordingly to 20-30mV or so.

@@danylonazarenko5199 Good to have that confirmed.

It’s around 300W

Don’t be. A single anchor is more than enough to hold the weight of the cabinet and battery. I’ve put several into each cabinet. Just as an example, the worst M10 bolt will hold 200kg with proper anchor bolts holding many times that before sheering. The reason for adding more bolts is to spread the load across the wooden structure.

This will be in your inverter settings.

You want to never charge the battery above 10A? Why so low?

Yes. There are rubber ring gaskets behind the earth bar. Though I plan to install on a small plastic block. Good spot by the way.

Amazon sell them

@@GaryMeatsLifethank you

Go for it! I’m now planning an easy comms access solution should I need to access the BMS or change settings.

Yeah. They’re good quality. I hope you didn’t put washers behind the nuts 😅

Ordered on Amazon. Order by the metre

@GaryMeatsLife I'll look at that so. Thanks

Not my area of expertise, but here’s my understanding. Physically yes, but the BMS are not compatible. They would need to connect to each other without comms link. Choose one BMS type to connect to the inverter. Don’t link the other BMS to anything. The unconnected battery will charge and discharge anyway alongside the connected battery.

@@GaryMeatsLife Thanks for the quick reply. All these BMS' are frustrating. I guess that would work like you described. Capacity would not be reported correctly but SOC would since current would be flowing in/out all of them.

Thanks 😁

Great to hear about others getting value from the content and taking a similar route. The battery cells are all from NKON in the Netherlands and the cases are from Fogstar in the UK.

Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it. You are correct. I erred on the side of caution and kept everything the same relative length regardless of polarity.

Great question. Charging the EV is sort of separate and only matters because of my incoming limits. My main fuse is 80A for the house. My inverter is 5kW. This gives me 20kWh over the 4 hour window. That’s half of my useable capacity, but when I have solar, some of that will top up the batteries and will export power when batteries are full. What I have is a nice big buffer suited to my use case. I will also be adding a DC-DC charger to the loop. It will be a 3000W charger on a 25A timed smart switch. That will give me another 12kWh if needed. I predict that it will be rare I would see a need for the full 40kWh per day and when a lot is used, there is some buffer built in. Then, during brighter months, I’ll probably dump 20kkWh per night to the grid before charging at the cheap rate to fill up again. It’s a working progress.

Hi Mick. Thanks for the comment. Yes, I think you’re missing a bit here. Have you watched the video prior to the series just released? The central busbar is all the cabling and busbar connections below the cabinets. The reasons for the busbar system was to even the load on each battery and to be able to isolate each battery individually. There is no need to isolate all 3 at once, so I have put the inline fuse between the inverter and busbar. If I wanted to isolate all 3, I have 3 breakers instead of 1 master breaker (if you will allow that term). This takes about 2 extra seconds to turn them all off and allows me to disconnect a single battery from the system if it needs maintenance. The previous setup worked, but was drawing power unevenly, draining battery 1 faster and reducing the useable capacity. This new setup is so much more functional than what was in place before. I hope that answers your question. Are you considering something similar?

you have connected battery 3 busbar to battery 2 busbar then those two to battery 1 busbar, then to a fourth busbar then to the inverter, is that correct,

@@mick.Walker No. You might be getting mixed up because the location of the Battery 3 breaker is on the right hand side of Battery 2 cabinet. It's better to see the breakers as 1,2 & 3 and ignore the location of them relative to the cabinet they are mounted. The breaker 3 location was chosen to allow for a fourth breaker to be placed to the right of it (left side of cabinet 3) if I decided to add another battery. 4 batteries would fit inside the 3 cabinet space with minor changes needed. You will see at time stamp 14:00 that there is a partially cut breaker hole for a fourth breaker which I decided to patch up having decided (for now) to not get a fourth battery. Each battery has its own breaker and then each breaker connects to the busbar system below the cabinets which then runs to the inverter, which in turn has a 150A inline fuse on the positive cable.