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@@TheNLHAZE thanks for watching

@@marquiseboggs7091 very similar to the Tiguan. If you watch @HumbleMechanic RUclips channel he covers this in a video you may find helpful. I'll put a link below: ruclips.net/video/riWXM5QdfFk/видео.htmlsi=Ukc5uzOm_sq4lEn8

It may have something to do with the same optical and stability sensor that I covered in this video.

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@@AlaskanInsights "for now" 😂 Could be a week, a month, a year ... Who knows LOL

@@Roz-90 thanks for watching, hopefully you've subbed too!

Appreciate all your suggestions.

Ralph, it could very well be a choke. The board was labeled L1 I believe, unlike T1 (T for transformers). I know you know this stuff already though. In my research finding either stacked vertically with a ferrite core was extremely uncommon. The only thing I could come close to was a transformer sold out of China. If I'm not mistaken SMPS transformers and choke are made or built specific to the application. So I'm not sure I'll find exactly what I need from a typical supplier (mouser, digikey, ect). Thales Portable ILS Receivers (PIRs) are definitely not cheap. That being said, the power supplies are way overpriced IMO.

@@HavingFunRepairs Good luck. If you had all the time in the world, you may be able to reverse engineer that part of the circuit to determine whether more likely to be a choke or transformer, but yes, finding a substitute may lead to a dead-end.

@@Outcastedsocityy I offer repair services. Link to my business page and instructions are in every video's description.

@@Wendy_Peng I do not have interest.

Yikes! Sorry you're going through all that. Are you capable of repairing yourself or will you be seeking services from me?

@@HavingFunRepairs Im pretty good at soldering but I'm still learning electronics. I know residential AC and am very good with auto wiring so naturally I figured PCB circuits would be easy to learn, boy was I wrong! Lol I downloaded the repair manual from Sony and took a quick look at the circuit and it looks like the RCA inputs go directly into a bd3474ks2 if so most likely I fried something internal to that chip! I really hope not but it's not looking good! The chip is still available for $30 but it's definitely something I can't repair myself and don't know that it's possible for any human to swap?

I would love to know what caused this to happen in the first place so I don't do it again! Lol Where are you located? If replacing that chip is possible maybe I can just mail you the main board so shipping wouldn't cost a fortune? Depending on what state your in shipping the entire receiver back and forth as well as the cost of parts and labor might exceed its value to buy it new.

Haha yeah and audio system circuits are not complex compared to things like radar, tacan, and navaids in general. That's the fun though, taking something that is a bit more challenging, learning it, then expanding on your knowledge from there

The IC has 80 pins. Not impossible to solder, but you would have better success if you removed the old IC using low melt solder and a hot air station. Then clean the pads with solder braid really good. Flux and use paste solder to re-tin the pads. Place new IC on pads and reflow with a hot air station.

Thanks for watching

Not necessarily a problem. You should get an audible click from the relays. Only if they fail to energize, fail to stay energized, or lose contact when energized are they a problem. In my Denon repair video (I think it's a 2 part video). I go over relays in more detail.

I'm not sure which wires you're speaking of. if you wouldn't mind emailing me a couple photos and maybe I can assist from there. my contact information is in my about tab on my main page.

@@Alastor_RadioDemon6666 honestly, I'm not sure. I haven't personally worked on that model, only the one in the video. I do offer repair services though if you're interested. Link to my website is in the description.

@@skinfiddler have you swapped the old PCB into the new toner cartridge and did you perform the replace toner option in the settings menu?

@@HavingFunRepairs I've had ink in the printer for over a year that worked fine and I didn't have to replace any chip. I even put a new cartridge in. I DID perform the replace toner option.

@@skinfiddler some of those generic toner cartridges use a small coin cell battery in the "chip". It's possible that the battery died. If yours doesn't have a battery, then it could still be the chip has gone bad. You are probably better off replacing the toner cartridge with an OEM.

@@HavingFunRepairs Thanks. I do have a new toner cartridge that I tried. I get the same result

@@meiszterful that could be the switch that I replaced in this video causing the issue, or a faulty battery.

@@yournightmare9999 the board would require reengineering. In some cases it may be simple to replace items like capacitors with a more reliable brand. However, when we are dealing with integrated circuits (IC) there is often no such thing as "better" with a pin for pin likeness. If I can put it that way. BTW neither the IC or MOSFET are bad components in and of themselves. There are just deficiencies in the design that should be addressed.

@@HavingFunRepairs thanks 👌. Terrible design amp for money.

Went with another brand and Never Looked back great video thanks for all the information my friend..

@@TheNLHAZE hard to find something reliable

@@yournightmare9999 Tonewinner is what I went with and they are GREAT subwoofers please check them out on here there are a few reviews started to come out on these subwoofers and I love mine cheers..

Always appreciate your support and comments. Cheers!

@@RBRetroBunker yeah the overhead camera is not the best. Eventually I'll get something better. Thank you for watching!

As much as I would enjoy the challenge of figuring out how to unbrick an AVR. It currently is not something I am experienced in accomplishing.

@@HavingFunRepairs Thanks for your answer, anyway if you have any clue or you have any idea or would like to try anything I am open to try.

You might could try a firmware restore. In Google if you type the model number of your AVR and the words "firmware restore" you should be given a series of button presses that may reset your firmware to default.

At least it's not removing the drum from a washing machine. Ofphm that's a tough one. 😅 Yeah it does seem a bit silly, but the drum comes out pretty easily.

Thank you! I'm not sure I would say that myself, but if you write it down I'm more than willing to sign my name to it. 😅

Your power supply is bad. You have capacitors that are leaking current so the amp will not fully power up.

@@HavingFunRepairs thank you for the response! What is the solution???

This video covers that solution

@@DanArnoldBC welcome

Thank you

@@andypandy123ful not sure I did anything, but you're welcome 😁 Thanks for watching

@@AllaboutTheWoodrowssorry to hear that. I offer repair services if need. Check out my channel description go to my Google site linked it in.

@@TlawilRamos it was a dual borla exhaust system. I eventually deleted one of the borla mufflers.

Glad you enjoyed the video. Thank you for sharing those memories.

Interesting. It's good to know they are providing that warranty up to 5 years. I'm sure there will be customers who will need it.

@@yvettesouchet1730 unfortunately I do not have a video showing that. The minute ours burns out though, I will have a video. 🤣

@jaeshea4638 glad this helped you! If you ever run into clutch master/slave cylinder issues I've a fully how to on that as well on this channel. Please consider a super thanks they are always appreciated.

@@natsukihoshi2904 it's highly unlikely. I tried researching this a bit myself, but what you have to remember is that each LCD segment on the display is specific to the tamagotchi. For example they all do not have the same food or health icons. So you would have to find a display with segments that can be excited via battery voltage to make the same icons. You are better off trying to find a broken tamagotchi that is the same as yours but with a good display. Then swapping the display over. That's a good question though.

@@HavingFunRepairs Oh, what a shame. I have one to repair-it looks like the liquid on the screen has leaked out, forming a black spot that covers half the edge. I was hoping to find a cheaper option. Thank you very much. 😊

@@natsukihoshi2904 I think I cover how to kinda remedy that issue in either part 2 or 3 of this series. It doesn't fix the leak, but what I cover shows how you can move it away to the edges so you will have a working screen again.

@@ralphj4012 very true, of this model the fact that the power supply cord was not three pronged is the first indicator of this potential. A hard lesson was very much learned by me.

@@HavingFunRepairs May be worth investigating your test gear to see whether the damage is confined to small sections of the output / input circuits and can be repaired. Good luck.

@@ralphj4012 perhaps a future video. For now I have replaced both.

These smart TVs are very well known for having poor LCD panels. Hopefully you can have better success than I did with this one.

Todd, thank you much! BTW anyone who looks at the comments please check out his channel! Do you think they were depending on the NPN to buffer for the 2092s' Qg? I couldn't find a buffer IC as an in between. You're right the 2092s/4227 combo has been around at least since 2010 (I think). And is way too commonly used to be considered a "new circuit design" by Klipsch representative claims to their customer base. That being said, what does it take to be considered a "new circuit design"? Was it based on something old? What percentage of the old design had to change to be considered new? Rhetorical questions really. Non rhetorical though. Have you seen over heating problems with this design? Copy all on the differential prob. Any recommendations (brand ect) that I should use in the future?

@@HavingFunRepairs I have only seen dead time issues with the 2092 circuits that cause excessive heating of the output transistors. I am surprised that there is an NPN in front of the outputs? Most buffers like the ZXGD3005 that I am used to dealing with are to aid in the supply of gate currents. If I see a bi-polar transistor I would assume either a muting or shutdown method has been implemented but in the gate circuit itself is odd. Plate amps are a different beast!

@@ellensburgamplifier thanks again! And I cannot overstate the following. Please check out Todd's (E.A.R.S) channel and business if you are watching this video and reading the comments.

​@HavingFunRepairs I have found a great subwoofer if your interested and this guy that makes them will talk with you as well and there not over priced .

Thank you for watching and your support! Hopefully this video helps out a few people across the net asking the hard questions.

@@dinkinaroundwithdillin4296 I'm not sure I am understanding your question. Are you asking if it took longer to start the motor when it was hot outside? Or are you saying the starter would be louder (as in cranking sound) when it is hot outside? I don't recall any starting abnormalities. I do recall when it was really really hot I, if I tried to start the vehicle from a stall, I would have to constantly flutter the gas to keep pressure up so it wouldn't stall again during idle. Stalling during idle was another issue I had.

@@HavingFunRepairs sorry yes longer crank times before actually starting. My daughter’s car cranks excessively before starting when hot and then flutters up and down in rpms for a minute.

@@dinkinaroundwithdillin4296 it might be related. Hard starts can be fuel pressure related, air intake related, or voltage related (battery starting to go out or bad starter or alternator). Typically it's the battery needing replacement when my Jetta was hard to start.

@@jasonp8710 fully noted and I appreciate that critique! I strive to find a balance of what to include and what not to include in my videos. Your feedback is important. Thank you for also expanding on what needs to be done to disconnect the cable. I'm sure your comment will be helpful to others. I plan to pin it for this reason.

@@hunterakers6687 glad this helped!

@ralphj4012 keep in mind the volume regardless of tuning is adjustable via volume pot. At 455kHz and 1kHz mod @90% I couldn't align below (I think) .03-.02 vpk-pk (maybe it was higher than that), but at 262kHz I was able to get a tone at a much lower input level. That being said the IF cans are fairly broad filters and they shouldn't be. The cans should provide overall selectivity and to a degree assist with sensitivity (outside of the transistors), right? I just took the reception issue as mostly a sensitivity issue and my assumption is that I needed a better antenna. There were definitely some adjustable trimmer caps that needed replacement. I also didn't really bother testing a lot of components because the customer wasn't looking for a full restoration. Mainly because they just wanted to use it with Bluetooth. The checkout using my SigGen as a low amplitude RF radio station at the end was as far as I could really go. As a guy who loves radios, it was a bit sad for me. However, I know the customer was happy to have the Bluetooth functionality so that at least was a plus. Always appreciate your insight! Keep injecting whatever and whenever.

Discharge time and Amp Hours (Ah) are synonymous. You can just use 70.

@@STKSOUND inspect battery terminals for corrosion. Then start troubleshooting the circuit for potentially bad capacitors or voltage regulators or other failed components.

@@randyrawdingii5135 glad the video helped

Well hopefully my video helps. If you are looking to have it repaired at a decent price please visit my business page. sites.google.com/view/havingfunrepairs/business-repairs

Thank you