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It helped me! Happy Holidays!

I love the QIDI PLUS4 BUT there are just too many small issues that keeps from giving them a 5 star review. seems like I fix one issue and another pops up its head. As far as printing its gives GREAT prints when working correctly. If you’re a fussier the PLUS4 is worth the troubles.

Good job sir! Thanks for the video. Yeah, I had same issues with those different types of screws. I raised a big stink over this. Even complained to USCPSC. Qidi finally admitted to not spec'ing the SSR BOARD correctly. They sent me the (2nd board iteration) a whole new heater housing plus the 2 back halves of the print head bc the bearings will become loose. They were very good about replacing but it took them awhile to get out in front of these issues. The Plus4s being sold in N.America with the stock SSR board are indeed a fire hazard if you run the chamber heater for a long time. The coils on my board were literally black! Thanks again for the video sir!

Before feeding the filament in, cut the end of the filament tip at a steep angle with some nice sharp flush cutters or exacto knife. That will allow it to wedge and wiggle past things. That should do it, that's one of the old school 3D printing tips.

Thanks for the video. Im trying to decide between this printer and the K2 Plus. I like the higher heat of the QiDi Plus4…

same issue today, I got 3 plus 4 printers with no chamber

Try reversing the pins at the plug at the mcu on the back. Fans behave like that when the pins are wrong ( power and ground swapped in wrong orientation), or the fan is plugged into a 12v spot. That's when fans do that spurting and trying to spin. Test the back plug with a meter to see if the plug is wrong/reversed. You can take a pin and pop the wires out of that plastic plug and swap them. They click right back in, if thats the issue.

I had same problem with pla. So the ams Will not be reliable at All without upgrade this part

Happened to me also. The quality control on the Qidi machines needs to be improved. On this chamber heater fan issue, if your willing to fix it till they send you a replacement I'll give my solution. The magnet stator inside the blower fan impeller is not in the magnetic field of the armature. If you push on the middle of the fan while its trying to spin you will see it spin up till you let go. To fix this, shut off the machine and unplug it. Get the blower fan out of the heater shroud by taking it apart. Screw on top of the heater then two more under the machine. Once you get the blower out, get the plastic impeller fan off the blower by removing the label sticker behind the blower, there will be a little c clip that holds the shaft of the plastic impeller to the blower. Don't lose the clip, also be carful with loosing the bearings once you slide off the impeller. In the plastic impeller fan is the magnet stator. It is pressed in and recessed. Get like a flat screw driver and pry it out about one millimeter, work your way around little by little. Once done reassemble and try. If it does not spin yet repeat and pry out the magnet stator just a bit more. Qidi is sending me a new heater anyway because I emailed them about it. Also mention to them about the SSR relay that powers the element in the heater. They will send you an updated one. Again if your willing to fix it yourself by relacing these parts. Otherwise the machine prints awesome. I've ben printing ABS, ASA and PC polycarbonate like if it was PLA, actually those prints look better than my PLA bed slinger prints.

“Made in China”…

If you wanted quality, you need to pay for it. Good to know about HHIP. I won't be getting anything made by them.

Did you end up returning this ? I have one and every tool I use if I have the regulator set at 90psi and run the tool it’ll go down to about 60 psi , I don’t know a lot about this stuff but I’m afraid if I adjust the pressure up to where the tool pressure is around 90psi while running the tool that it’ll blow the tool up or something , didn’t know if you returned this or found a solution thanks

I know it's been some time since you posted the video. My CT2050 (practically brand new) stopped all high frequency welding. No Tig, no plasma, no stick. Unit powers on, and internal compressor will come on when you depress the button on the plasma torch.. But the arc fails to ignite on any process. What was wrong with yours? The fix etc.. Thank you.

The design has some drawbacks for sure. I made two changes to make them work for me. First the obvious one - I drilled/cut/ground the upper relief cut so the foot pedal can fold all the way up and be out of the way. You do need to disassemble the whole caster assembly to get at it so this is not quite as simple as it sounds. Second, being a six footer I found the lathe spindle hight of the 70-3040 a bit low for my comfort while turning. I cut some riser blocks to attach under each leg (about 4" lift). Of course that means the caster mounting holes and mounting bolts are all wrong. Fortunately the caster mounting bolt arrangement allows you to move the lower bolt to an existing upper hole in the caster housing. Then it's a matter of drilling new holes in each leg to get the position right. Fortunately there was just enough room between the internal leg bracing to make this all work. With a little more thought by Rikon (and virtually no cost), both of these features could be there out of the box.

I agree. This is not a well thought out wheel system.

Just struck these problems with my new one as well

Have you decided on alternatives for mobility considering the weight of the machine. Thanks. And thanks for the review.

You got 1 comment. Did you ever figure this out?

Did this fix Your intermittent plasma cutter issue?

Looks very solid. Just bulky. Curious if they could be mounted inward?

Za te pieniądze jest jakaś inna lepsza giętarka ?

I see what you're saying with the amount they extend out from the legs and how it uses valuable shop space but I believe the design is adequate for the wheels intended use. The sheer of the bolts is enough to handle moving the lathe, they aren't designed to hold the full weight of the lathe over an extended period. I have stuff in my shop that the wheel assemblies have failed to some degree like my little laguna b-flux dust collector broke a caster at the connection point to the frame within the first year and here I am 4 or 5 years later and I'm going to have to fix the frame again from another broken connection point.

I bought them too, but I think they’re perfect for my situation

0:56 how you can flatten surfaces is to use the surface of your table saw or ? and put a large sheet of emery paper onto it, tape it down, and use figure 8 motions to flatten a surface. It works really well. I've done it a number of times with aluminum, steel, and wood.

Good points, one thing about the line on the base: that could be the casting parting line where the two halves of the mold came together. As for the edge of the locked in form, you might be better to true up the base instead of the bend edge. For the sharp 90 deg bends if you remove too much material there, you'll start to get a radius in your bend (or a larger radius than you like). I'm not surprised you have to "tune up" a cheap chinese piece of equipment. That's pretty much a given when you buy something cheap from china lol. One thing about the locked in form not being centered on the pivot: is it supposed to? The reason I ask is because almost all the other benders I've looked at, the bending part that actually does the bending isn't centered either. Anyway, good luck!

This is similar to the Chinese mini lathes! If you’re willing to put in the sweat equity, they can be turned into fairly good machines, but out of the box they’re junk! The handles are made in two pieces so they can stuff it all in one box! This Old Tony did an excellent video on one of these! I hope you’ve gotten the UB working like a sewing machine by now!

Thanks for the review! I'm looking at buying the next size down from this one. I appreciate your honest review, you definetly get what you pay for but all I need it to be is flat!

Thks for posting this. Was just looking at this on amzn too. Do you have background in machining, cnc etc? Or just for home shop/woodworking? Im looking for something for the latter, and wanting something like this for hand scraping.

what was the solution?