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@@brentgoodwin7614 service menu on touch impress doesn't have milk frothing settings unfortunately. Issues with bes881 barista touch impress frothing are either due to dirty tip, milk type, or bad air pump/ venturi valve.

@@rafikgamal549 honestly I do prefer the non touch version. It's cheaper, but also: Has more settings to control like steam boiler temp, air pump settings, tamper settings, pre infusion settings. Touch doesn't have any of those. It's also quicker to select options. Quicker to start and stop shots, quicker to turn on and off, but these differences are minor. Touch version allows you to save multiple drink types with different coffee amount, milk temp and foam etc. Touch also has a schedule timer so it can turn on at different times in different days or even multiple times per day vs non touch only has one time for auto on. Lastly, for us technicians, the touch has the superior service mode which shows a lot of info, boiler temps, flow meter settings, descale port status etc.

@@caffeinefix2751 if you prefer the non-Touch version then I will keep it and will not upgrade until you tell me the time to upgrade now. Since you service mine I am happy every day morning

@@TheCynabal thanks! Valve mod done yes

@@BouncyArtist yes probably. By increasing size to 10 on inner burr and max size on outer dial setting

@@caffeinefix2751 Thanks . Also the thing is people are changing setting of inner burr to make good espresso. I hope ill be able to make good shot by not having to change setting.

@@aliz657 it’s a secret 😉

@@HETPEZB watery coffee is almost always bad or old beans. Yes fine grind size will help reduce brew rate and in the end reduce total brew amount. But same beans can brew wildly differently on day 1 vs day 30. Try fresh beans, will be amazed at the difference. I have a video about this on my profile

Thank you, I’ll give it a try. But the difference occurred rapidly. 2 days ago it produced normal regular expected coffee, and today like water under the faucet.

@@konradbokwa 130 default. Changeable to 120 or up to 140 if I remember correctly

@@caffeinefix2751 TU. My steam boiler is overheating to 160 and group boiled doesn't heat at all. One o-ring was streaming and triac board is dameged probably.

They're pretty good right!

@@yenny527 yeah! I was thinking maybe 2 res out is overkill and may cause issues for comfort travelling out of town, but no it's very bearable and not a distraction, at least as a car guy haha. If selling it or growing up in the future, that's possible. Was an extra 100 bucks for the flanges. I'd rather the flexibility of reversing vs having to re weld everything back

@@aRk0_aus that is due to technique. It all depends on angle and depth of the wand in milk. You can get good foam with any decent manual wand (even the cheaper breville Barista Express can get good foam despite being single boiler). I did manual mode yesterday on an Oracle Touch and it was creamy with thick foam

@@caffeinefix2751 Can you provide us a video as I have the same machine, it will be very helpful mate.

@@felixolivares9129 it would be possible to attach temporarily for testing purposes with the machine disassembled but I'm not sure if there's a way to attach one permanently. Why do you wish to attach a gauge? You can also invest in a scace device which is a portafilter with gauge attached to it

@@aRk0_aus hi, I actually haven't experimented with pre infusion settings as much as I like coffee! I'd expect more prev infusion would change the flavour to more sweet and thicker body, at least that's what the professionals say. Bitter taste could mean temp is too high, flow rate too slow (fine grind size) or roast too dark. Your temp is 88 and flow seems about right so my only guess is if the beans are too old or just the type and roast level. Is it robusta or Arabica? Robusta is more Bitter. Dark roasts will also be more bitter

@@caffeinefix2751 I use robusta and my current grind settings is 16.5 using DF64Gen 2 with DLC burrs. I got 44 out within 26 sec which is fine but the bitterness is bit harsh

@@simonmessina4774 fair fair

It sounds much better in person. I took a leap of faith going with dual instead of just one and it worked out perfectly.

@@brianvanginkel80 that's strange. Hmm. Could be that the air pump over heats or doesn't work as effectively second time around, maybe give it few minutes to cool? More likely, if you're using the same jug and it's warm or hot at the end of first batch, it will warm up the second batch of milk and reduce time of frothing. Wand will also be quite hot and warm up the milk. Strange issue indeed, I haven't come across it.

@@PubRunner happy to help! sorry for the silly question but have you looked at the machine under full pressure and does it leak any steam? Steam leaks are the number one cause for popping safety switches and most overheating issues and anything showing funny behaviours. if you do have questions regarding electrical circuitry or motherboards and thermostats, join the Facebook dual boiler group and the Facebook breville owners group. A couple of the members there, namely Sean gambles and Luke Heunks, are very knowledgeable and sre breville techs familiar with this sort of thing

@@caffeinefix2751 yeah I have there is no condensation or signs of steam. I ran it with the lid off. Btw I am an electrician by trade so I have half an idea what I am doing. I disconnected the brew boiler by cutting the wire and measured the resistance to earth and when hot the resistance drops on the left hand terminal to about 90k when hot but about 7 Meg ohms when cold so I am as sure as I can be that the brew boiler is the issue. All the other elements meter fine to ground. I can get the brew boiler, and two required hoses for $210. I would also do all the o rings and that’s another $19. The other issue is the hot water dispenser doesn’t work but I did find the left hand hose was squashed this hose would be replaced with the new boulder as it is slightly different to what is in my machine

@@boncreationsza yes you can, but beware because this model is now over 12 years old and the components inside may be worn or leak steam and water so a service is very important every 3 years. Yes the hopper locks and beans can be removed with hopper

Sounds as good as a $3000 system. Not cheap, I'm just being reasonable 😉. If I were cheap I wouldn't get an fl5!

@caffeinefix2751 Hahahahahah that's funny...it sounds like you cut the cats.....3000 dollar system ...Hahahahahah clown.

@@mrmertah5412 on the bes860 model it's not possible, it's fixed at 93 which is actually quite good. On newer models like bes878 it is possible to change by +/- 2 degrees Celsius but most people keep it at the default 93 anyway. What makes you want to change the temperature?

Well, the external thermometer tells me that the temperature of the water coming out of the grouphead does not exceed 75 degrees Celsius Even when I try to heat the head by drawing empty shots, the water temperature remains below 83 degrees. The only solution I went with is to recirculate the hot water from the cup to the tank three or four times until the water temperature that come out of the grouphead reaches 91.

@@sylc7529 search on Google, should have a few results. In Australia mainly, there are many sellers here

Yes, they come in one piece

@@caffeinefix2751 thank you! Its too hard to find a seller for this here in PH 😭

Hey Jeffrey! I wasn't aware of the oring issue, frankly never changed a needle valve or disassembled one in my 4 years of experience but I am aware of the syndrome you refer to. This will sound silly but it may happen when the hot water tap is ever so slightly turned upwards / on. An inadvertent slayer mod of sorts haha! Close it gently and it may stop the drip. If not (and I've had a couple machines that still dripped after closing the knob) then you can actually put some force and turn the knob more closed/clockwise, you'll feel it tighten like a screw, do this for a tiny amount at a time and you'll hopefully see an end to the PNDS!

@@caffeinefix2751 Thank you for the fast response! Oh my friend, I do wish the 'check the simple things first' worked however I am sad to say no luck. I've tried that many, many times (mostly out of boredom) and played with the knob itself as well, though after repeated attempts and tinkering, what really "fixes" it is a full needle valve replacement. That said, the last time I dug into it I used the new inner core (with the new o-rings) on the existing valve body and it worked as expected so I deduced it to be the o-rings. I have a digital caliper and can easily measure the diameter however the thickness and inner diameter is harder, and I don't know where to buy a few without having to buy a bag of 1,000! :)

@@caffeinefix2751 I found a place online and ordered some replacement o-rings for the needle valve - I'll reply back once they arrive and I have swapped the valve out. Also, I am curious, when I set the temp on the machine at say 200F (assuming that is the 'Coffee Boiler' temp, should the grouphead temp match that, and be 200F? I am seeing the group be about ~4d F lower than the set temp. Unsure how accurate the temp probes are but assume they are indeed accurate - I have pretty soft water and descale on schedule but is it possible the grouped probe has scaling? Easy to check?