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Will definitely keep that in mind for next time. Surprisingly, the Jeeps heavy duty bushings were way easier to remove than these.

I'm up in Lower MD, not too far off. It's been a time with this thing, but I'm always happy to work on it and improve it. Thanks for watching.

It's a company called Trail Head Off-road, or THOR for short. They have a website where you can buy a variety of things, including the cowl intake.

@@monstermodcustoms awesome. thank you

You have to high step to get one leg up and then grab the handle and pull. Takes some getting use to but it's not too difficult.

They've got all the right parts to make it work, and overall aren't too bad, but they rust like no tomorrow and are underpowered to boot. I think a buggy is about the only way this car will stay out of a junkyard and even then, it's all just a money sink.

Thanks, it's been a long time coming

Thanks

Yeah, I just don't trust what they did here, and its so inconsistent that I think it's just easier to get better ones. Thanks for all the info. I generally use the dremel for the fine work at the end, but I never made it that far.

@@monstermodcustoms let's just say. You get some light valves. A good very good peeforomance valve job. And get rid of casting flash. You will be in a very good spot. Moat of your flow is determined based off the area between 1 inch before and after the valve. If anything when you port a head. Do the valve job after.

One day, I'll make another one that's crew cab. May bob the bed later on, that's a pretty easy one. I've been to Big Dogs and a couple of events they throw, but that's on the list. I'd really like to make a big trip out to Windrock eventually. Got to make my brakes stop locking up first and maybe a new set of wheels and tires so it drives better.

The next big project on it is probably going to be coilovers. And with coilovers comes linking the rear, which is an idea that's been rattling around in my head for a while. Not gonna lie, there are some things I don't have the best understanding of, and link geometry and coilover math kind of fit in that. I'll have to put some real planning into it(and money). But for now I want to, at least, get it to reliably drive places, so that comes first.

It shows a bit of it in this video. The front supports are mounted directly to the bed and the rears are on the wheel wells. With the stock wheel wells, it mounted up fairly good on its own. I'll be putting out a new video soon and I'll be under it, so I'll add an extra section about the mounting.

I'll try that out. Thanks. It would be nice if it was just excess crank case pressure and not a junk seal

Maryland restricts land use, even if there is a trail, so going on any public land can result in a ticket/fine. And they've got nothing better to do around here than get the easy pickins. So unless you know someone with enough land that will allow it to be trailed, you're out of luck.

You know, it came with some nice braided steel lines that I never questioned. But if they were degraded, abused, or otherwise messed with, that could very well be the issue. I wrote it off since they were newer, but I will update and upgrade those as well to make sure.

It's a D44 and 9 inch combo from a 70's Ford

@@monstermodcustoms strange how you can’t get any information on them.

@@Thexkidd There's plenty of info/experience about other axle types, but not a lot of people writing about the 9 inch specifically. Going through Yukon gets me the general info on the entire line of Grizzly lockers, but the functionality may be a bit different from axle to axle since the design has to change for every one. My entire drive setup, the 513s, the 37 tires, the beadlocks, the axle shafts, and the trans/transfer could also make it a unique problem to just me. I was hoping I could at least find some parallel.

Thanks. It's come a long way

Yeah, the updated front is nice and all, but there's just something perfect about the older.

It's on the list. It was a custom setup to start with so there is some time in them. They are connected and do "function", but every time I tighten it up to get some grip, it only works twice and then it has too much slack again. I'm about to put it up in the air and I'll look at them again but if I can't get the cable to work, I'll go full hydraulic.

@@monstermodcustoms sounds like a typical XJ handbrake :/

@@officialWWM Pretty much. Probably doesn't help that the rear calipers are GM big bores. Maybe the throw out just isn't enough on it.

I've had the pan off before and replaced the pump with some other bits. I could see that there was no discoloration on the bearing caps, so I wouldn't think it has too much up and down play, if any. I haven't checked directly, but have been under it for the harmonic balancer and flywheel replacement, and neither had any slack. While it's running, there's hardly any movement on the balancer. When I get into the oil pan again(and inevitably, the rear main), I'll do a more thorough check over the crank and see if something else is going on there.

@monstermodcustoms a simple test if have a dial indicator is stick base to something on block or somewhere solid and the tip on vibration damper and pry up that is how caterpillar wants you to check main bearings after installing on c9

@@littlebro9051 I'll try that next time I do an oil change and can take off the pan. Maybe this will finally solve my problem.

I got very close when I realized the frame was compromised. Glad I didn't. I still see them for sale, so maybe it's not too late to get another one.

Thanks, and definitely getting harder every year. Despite the 'new car' features out there, once mine dies, I hope I can find a Cherokee for a daily.