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That sounds like a solid setup, I need to add a second antenna as well. Also, that sounds like a very safe bet for where you live. Better to be safe than sorry.

Thanks, glad you enjoyed! I located my Pi outside to keep it as close to the antenna as possible. This is to minimize length of the co-ax feed line from the antenna. Losses in co-ax increase at the higher 950-1098mhz frequencies used by ADS-B. Probably overkill, but it was easy enough to do at the time.

Thanks for the reply and makes perfect sense. Assume is was powered from your house. Would like to explore the idea of a self contained / solar powered power supply to make the entire unit independent. Thanks again for the videos!

I live in a pretty high lightning area, so I have a copper ground cable running from my mast down to a 10' ground rod. In a perfect world, this would tie into the ground rod for your house too (my house was built before ground rods were a thing, so I installed a rod specifically for my antenna). Where all my antenna cables (VHF/UHF and HF) and the power cable (from the Pi) enter the house I have a ground panel (basically a sheet of copper inside a weatherproof box mounted to the side of the house) that's also tied to that same ground rod. That ground panel has lightning arresters for the VHF/UHF antenna, my HF antenna, and a 12v DC arrester (uxcell, ~$20 from amazon) for the power going up to the Pi. The goal is to keep the low resistance path to ground entirely outside the house so that the current from the strike never makes it inside to cause damage or fire. It won't do much to protect sensitive electronics from a direct hit, but it should do a fairly decent job isolating the electronics inside the house from nearby strikes to trees, etc.

Thanks! Appreciate it!

If I ever rebuild this with new electronics that is absolutely what I would do. At the time I was designing around parts I had on hand (the only components I bought specifically for this were the fan, usb hub, and Radar Box dongle). POE would have doubled or tripled the cost at the time.

Super Spec. 👍

For the record they did send me a replacement. Great customer service.

Yellow wire is video out, it runs from the camera to the VTX. In this video you can see it running to the camera along with red and black wires to power the camera.

@@Neppo1345 so you still get osd and everything on the screen

@@eternalfpv9461, only if the OSD is built into the camera. To take advantage of an OSD built into the flight controller you will need to run the yellow wire from the camera to the VIDEO IN pin on the flight controller, and then run the yellow wire from the VTX to the VIDEO OUT pin on the flight controller. Joshua Bardwell has a great video on this here: ruclips.net/video/GFvYCI7t-Mc/видео.html

I've generally had really good luck with them, I run them in two fixed wing airplanes and all 6 of my quads. I think I've gone through maybe 15 over the past couple years building and selling quads and this is the only time I ever had issues. I guess a dud slips through QC every now and then. TBS support was pretty solid, sent me new pigtails (because a bad pigtail can cause overheating) and when that didn't fix it, they sent me a brand new VTX.

Yeah, there's compatibility issues between some cameras, on-board OSDs, and the rapid fire module. There's a bunch of threads out there; mostly on the Immersion RC hub on FB. They've also created new mode in the firmware 'RapidFire#2' that's meant to alleviate the issues. So I recommend first updating your firmware with the updater and trying the new mode. You can also make sure to power cycle your module and quad before flying and ensure it has a good lock. If you take off before the module has a good lock on the carrier signal it can cause this as well.I was pretty disappointed when I immediately had issues, but Immersion has been great supporting their product and helping people find solutions to their issues.

@@Neppo1345 Mine gave a problem more or less like this. but only the black line going down as if I had moved the camera, I switched the camera to and eagle and it worked well, researching some others, I thought I had some ways to change this, changing the mode from rapidfire to rapidfire2 or legace, like the friend commented.

Yeah, it's a real bummer when it happens. Almost a certain crash unless you're lucky.

Josh Johnston no, not yet. Working with TBS customer service. They think it might be a bad pigtail causing reflected RF and an overheating VTX. They're sending some new pigtails to test...so we'll see.

Neppo1345 thanks for replying. will certainly be interesting to see how that goes. Im lucky not to have it happen mid flight, only on the ground!

New pigtails arrived and did not make a difference. I let TBS customer service know and they're sending a replacement VTX once they get them in stock at the end of the month. Can't stress enough how great TBS customer service was through all this.

Neppo1345 these things need to be in the air to stay cool

After watching..... yeah you cant let them just cook on the table🤣🤣 thats just asking to burn it up...

I added a three wire power cord and grounded it to the router chassis. It helped significantly but I still had the occasional dropout. I think Carbide is currently producing new controllers that will fix the problem.

Thanks