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Wash away with rain? I thought super glue was waterproof and the water did not break it down? Correct me if I wrong because I was using it for outdoor application thinking that the water would not affect it.

With your end grain to side grain example you used copious amounts of glue and accelerator. Does all of that stain the surrounding wood? I have two wood items I want to glue together, but I don't want to see the glue. I wouldn't want to stain the surrounding wood.

So glad I didnt try to glue that tooth back in. Back to the gorilla glue store.

Please post the amazon link on the sleeve tubing. Thanks.

Happy to Subscribe....Masterful!!

I don't trust CA glue for all the things people claim to use it on. Maybe some select projects but that's about it. If you're truly into many different materials you need an assortment of adhesives.

Vintage Teak furniture...... Tricky getting past the old oil still in the wood cells. People recommend using lacquer thinner or acetone to wipe the joint first..... Using ordinary white glue...

this is awesome a door hanger just ripped out, thought i was going to be dicking around with matchsticks this is way better

How do you put the cap back on? Do you leave the teflon tubing in or take it out each time?

This video does a great job of espousing the benefits and strength of superglue. I'm using it a bit more instead of epoxy as an adhesive and it hasn't let me down so far, so at least in the short-term, I'm happy. The extra-thin superglue is a great tip, but it's a mixed blessing. It does soak into everything easily, but it also splashes more easily. I've ruined a shirt and, somehow, pair of socks. Unfortunately, the tubing is mostly a bust. It works, but quickly forms about 10 tiny clogs throughout the entire length making it a single-use item.

If sticks to skin how to remove effectively

If sticks to skin how to remove effectively

Great just wear safety glasses and mask next time you don't want the ca to go into your cornea or breath in vapors

I read that the accelerator was very hazardous to breathe. Is that true and thank you.

Cotton swabs/toilet paper/paper towels/THREAD wrapped around certain things for extra strength.. same result but no powder needed! Baking soda is great for getting into really weird places/cracks though. ALSO Coconut oil + Sugar = Cyanoacrylate/super glue remover for your hands essentially I recently discovered <33333333

Instant subscribe! This is what RUclips was made for.

Been using CA Glue since I was a kid. Learned the BAKING SODA TECHNIQUE, but didn't know why, this is the only video that explained it properly! Thanks!

Don't use cyanoacrylate around or on Snowflakes.

When CA first came out, we in aerospace machining used a product called Eastman 910 to make temporary setups. Glue a couple 1-2-3 blocks or a block to a plate etc. for instant tooling. When the job's done we tap it with a plastic mallet and clean it with a razor blade. That was before we found out about acetone.

Great video, can’t even complain about anything, damn near perfect! 👌

Good info and also thanks for no music.

maybe wearing gloves might be a good idea 🤔

Brilliant presentation. I'm a long-time user of CA. As I get older I find it harder to use CA because the fumes upset my asthma to the point where I get nauseous and blurry-eyed. I haven't taken on any long term projects for years because of this but I still use it for repairs around the house. Is there a particular way to avoid or counteract the problems I have while working with CA? How can I use strong glue safely? I know a simple face mask can work for a little exposure but then my eyes and glasses don't do well. Is there any protective gear you could recommend or is it a matter of room ventilation, exhaust fans, etc?

I learned how to use CA this way recently and find it invaluable, especially when building strength into joints using baking soda. I have found that ordinary sellotape can be used to temporarily join components while gluing and then peeled off afterwards, this is useful when mending plastic frames of spectacles. The lenses in modern cheap glasses are held into the frames by shrinkage as the frame cools, they are not bonded and remain under tension so if you drop them the lens falls out. If you glue it back in carefully with CA the lens becomes a component of the frame and will never fall out again. Just be careful it has dried fully before you wear them as the fumes can be very irritant. I haven't tried it yet but it might be worth while using something like Vaseline on the lenses to prevent any stray CA permanently marking them.

David a very interesting video thank you . Question once ca has cured do you know of a solvent that will soften the ca so it can be removed ? Regards , the old fart in wembley uk

How would you go about bonding arrowhead inserts with the CA ? The inserts are aluminum and the arrow shafts are carbon. Once I apply the glue on the shaft and add the insert I cant use accelerant or baking soda to make the bond stronger. I have had my arrow heads pop out sometimes which tells me the bond is not strong enough. Can you give me a tip what to do or should I just use something stronger like JB weld?

Dave, another reason that IKEA furniture is weak is because people use a Phillips head screwdriver to assemble it. IKEA does NOT use Phillips head screws on anything. They use almost exclusively pozi-drive. If you use a pozi-drive screwdriver instead of a Phillips, you’ll find that you can tighten the fasteners better without camming or stripping out.

Can I use this method on metal to fix a stripped Allen screw for a bicycle water bottle holder? If not, what would you recommend?

What ID in mm did you use? There are different types available. Also, do you put a lid on the top, or just simply leave the tube to harden and cut it off?

Thank you Dave, this video was excellent and very helpful. I have always wanted to use superglue the way you displayed in your video.

Holy Cow! I am subscribing before RUclips shuts this channel down for violating the first rule of RUclips: "One should not make RUclips videos that are useful or make a positive contribution to it's viewers lives". To conform to the RUclips requirements, this video should probably add in some idiot gluing his hands together or his eyelids shut.

Sweet. Big methacrylate fan here

Subscribed.

er? um, seems like an expensive way to put together a wood workbench. I do like SG for small projects.

Hi Dave. Have you ever used petroleum jelly on the nozzle tip to prevent glue build up?

Hi Dave Riddle. Have you ever tried crushed ramen noodles with sodium bicarbonate and CA glue? I have used it to restore a chunk of wood rot that I cleaned out of a house entrance pillar with great success. It’s been more than 5 years and it has held up great through Maine’s outdoor weather (except now my ex-wife owns the home 😅).

A great video! Thank you! I have, through learning from mistakes, always avoided using CA glue on porous materials such as fabric or leather. I found that even though the bond is strong, it seeps into the material through the capillary action you mentioned, making the material brittle. For example, using CA glue to glue back the sole of a leather or canvas shoe usually does not seem to work as good as a rubber-based glue. Any suggestions on how to use CA for the same job?

Let me go ahead and glue every one of the studs in my new house im building instead of screw them. I will update yall soon! might take me 3 months to get 1 wall up.

I use the baking soda/CA quite often. I put baking soda in a old pill bottle that I drilled a hole in. Then I put the super glue where I want it and shake baking soda over it. I usually put down a clean sheet of paper to catch the baking soda that doesn't get stuck. Then I crease the paper and slide the excess back into the pill bottle. The Baking soda/ CA is very hard and makes a good wear surface. I used it on the bottom of my weed whip tp rebuild the bottom that rubs on the grounds, holds up great. Just rebuilt a short leg for a couch last night. I'll be buying the thin super glue, what I have locally is not as thin as I would like. A note to 'How to Home Life' How about coming up with a better applicator for the accelerator, the spray seems wasteful. Or even better how about a DIY accelerator?

This video being overly long and getting off into the weeds at times, here is a synopsis that also contains some of my own decades of experience. To clarify, 60/40 solder changes gradually from a liquid to a solid as it cools and therefore you have to be careful not to disturb the solder joint for several seconds after you take the soldering iron away from it, because if you move the wires or the leads of the part while the solder is still kind of "plastic" you will end up with a so-called "cold" solder joint which appears grainy, rough and dull, and makes for an unreliable electrical and mechanical connection. 63/37 "eutectic" changes almost immediately from liquid to solid as the connection cools and so it's easier to make a reliable connection with less chance of developing a cold solder joint due to movement of the parts while the connection cools. That being said, I have used 6040 solder for decades; these days I mostly use a Kester solder formulation that that also contains 2% silver but this is more expensive and it's not really necessary for most electronics hobbyists. I should caution the hobbyist that when repairing a broken solder joint on an existing piece of equipment one occasionally encounters a scenario where the existing solder works poorly when you attempt to touch up an existing connection with your own solder; you may get what looks to be grainy, cold-soldered connection. This this particularly obvious when the device was made with lead-free solder and you are using leaded solder for the repair work,, in which case you should remove all the old solder from the connection first before resoldering with the solder you are using. It is important to note that lead-free solders require a higher soldering temperature then lead solder does, and the flux contained within lead-free solder are very acidic, corrosive, and electrically conductive, very different from the typically non-conductive, non-corrosive rosin flux used with and contained within 60/40 or similar lead/tin solder. It is important to realize that buying solder blindly off of ebay or Amazon may provide you with an alloy of unknown qualities from Asia that may not work well (and counterfeit labeled garbage products are all too common). Buy only name brand solder from well-known, reputable electronics supply specialists! The same applies to rosin flux. Acid fluxes are necessary for soldering copper water pipe or sheetmetal but are completely wrong for any type of electronics work because they will cause corrosion of the electrical connection eventually and it's almost impossible to remove every last trace of the acid flux. I honestly don't know why a demonstration of soldering sheet metal with a torch was shown here because you will *NEVER* use an open flame for soldering electronics, and you certainly don't want the rosin to catch fire and burn. PS, I learned to "sweat" copper waterpipe over 50 years ago, and never would I attempt to solder copper or brass that is as oxidized and tarnished as the brass strips shown here until.I had cleaned them first with sandpaper and wire brush (or in the case of electronics, with the fiberglass bristle scratch brush). In any and all types of soldering, cleanliness is next to godliness and no matter what flux you use it can never compensate for mechanical cleaning of the parts involved first. This is especially true of soldering electronic components! I do not recommend use of lead-free solder for hobbyists: It wets and flows poorly, is more subject to breaking down under extremes of heat, cold and vibration, and the flux is so active that any traces of it left behind can cause degradation or corrosion of connections and perhaps electrical conductivity across the fiberglass insulating material. The higher temperatures necessary and the corrosive fluxes contained within will shorten the lifetime of soldering iron tips, and you will probably find the fumes highly acrid and irritating to your nostrils. Rosin flux, on the other hand, is made from pine tree resins (similar to the rosin that violinists and cellists put on their bows) and smells kind of like a Christmas tree when it's heated. Some people might find it mildly irritating and a very few people are allergic to it but I've been working with this stuff for many decades and it doesn't bother me in the slightest. Work in a well ventilated room and use a fan to blow the fumes away and you'll probably experience no discomfort, but if it does bother you then you can buy dedicated devices to suck up the soldering fumes and filter them from the air or exhaust them to the outside. By the way, the melting point of lead solder is about 500° below the boiling point of lead and so the fumes don't really contain any toxic metal to be wary of. You may get some lead oxide film on your hands from handling the solder but it isn't absorbed through the skin; simply wash your hands before you eat, or wear thin rubber gloves if you prefer. An important distinction should be made between ordinary Rosin paste flux and what is sometimes referred to as "soldering paste"; there is a special mix of powdered solder and flux that is used for soldering "ball grid" or "VGA" microprocessors to circuit boards; the rosin flux shown in the video does not contain powdered solder. Again, I strongly recommend that you buy rosin flux only from reputable electronics supply catalog houses, not from eBay or Amazon, because I have seen acidic fluxes more suitable for soldering sheet metal being marketed to unsuspecting hobbiists. You can also buy liquid flux that has been diluted with alcohol, which is occasionally helpful but it's unnecessarily expensive to buy it in that form; if you really need Rosin flux to be thinner and more liquid, than you can simoly make your own by dissolving some of your paste flux in alcohol. And a final note about soldering equipment; the best quality tips have a copper core that is plated with steel, because copper is an excellent electrical and thermal conductor, but solder and flux tend to quickly dissolve and oxidize bare copper, and so quality-made tips are plated with steel for longer life. Unfortunately, if you buy your tips on Amazon or ebay they could come from just about anywhere and many are cheap, low-life knockoffs of known name brands. The shape of the tip is also important, and the pointy conical tips supplied with most soldering irons are terrible for most electronics work; watch the soldering of circuit boards in this video, the tip used here is a so-called "chisel" tip, which is a bit of a misnomer because the edge is actually blunted and rounded, but it has 2 flat sides like a chisel does. A chisel tip is good for nearly all circuit board work (except perhaps for working with truly tiny components) and you can solder wires and connectors with it as well. Keep the tip clean and tin it frequently as you work; A damp sponge works okay for tip cleaning,, but I have read that it can create micro fractures and stress cracks in the plating on the tip, and I find that the springy brass wool tip cleaners work even better than the sponge does. Finally, the key rule to sottering is that wherever possible you should endeavor to make a good mechanical connection before you finalize the electronic connection by adding solder! Twist the wires together in a spiral pattern, or wrap the component lead through the eyelid or terminal and bend it around into a hook or question mark shape, sufficient that it would probably make an okay electrical connection even before you add solder to it. The only proviso here is that you don't want to wrap the component lead so tightly or bend it so close down to the circuit board foils that it would make life difficult for you or another technician if/when that component must be removed (teasing the ckmponent lead with a dental pick to stsrt to unwrap it from the terminal while simultaneously heating it with the soldering iron is no fun, and a vacuum operated desoldering station or desoldering braid may not remove all of the solder). I personally prefer to cut all excess component lead away AFTER soldering the connections, and perhaps leaving a little stub of wire there for the desoldering gun to sit on, or that you can grab with needle nose pliers when you remove the part. Don't bend component leads flat down to the circuit board foils because you won't like it when it's time to remove the part!

An important caution for newbie's to soldering: *do not use acetone to clean circuit boards*! Use pure alcohol, which is far less toxic, less flammable, and won't make you dizzy like breathing acetone fumes will. Acetone may damage some plastics (including plastic body transistors, diodes and capacitors) and probably will remove the printed labeling from components (it's a common ingredient in paint removers). Acetone is likely carcinogenic, and the fumes are highly explosive; it's far worse for you than working with leaded solder. Rosin flux dissolves easily in alcohol and use of acetone isn't necessary; don't do it! I've been repairing electronics for 55 years......

I thought this was crazy glue not some capillary action glue

At about 26:00, the fiberglass bristle brushes are known as "scratch brushes" and they are fantastic for removing the oxide layer from whatever you're about to solder: the terminals of a switch or potentiometer, the foils and pads of a circuit board, a metal chassis where you want to make a ground connection, etc. You can typically buy a cheap set of 3 Asian made scratch brushes for less than $15, usually containing not only the fiberglass brush but also a brass wire brush and a steel wire brush, all enclosed in retractable housings, sort of like a ballpoint pen (twisting the top extends or retracts the bristles). The cheap sets, however, might not have the ability to replace the fiberglass brushes, which do wear out as you use them, and the overall mechanisms aren't built very well. You can buy better quality, German-made scratch brushes which are much higher quality and do allow you to replace worn out fiberglass brushes (buy some spares); the brass or steel brushes are unlikely to wear out, but you may find that you rarely use those and the fiberglass bristle brushes do both the most accurate, fine-grained t cleaning , and yet are least likely to damage anything. Just watch out for bits of thin glass fiber getting stuck in your fingers, From where they can be difficult to locate and extract with tweezers (sometimes a piece of really sticky tape works better). They'll fester in your flesh a bit and bother you for a few days and eventually work their way out, but you might prefer to avoid that by wearing gloves. I used them every day at work for years (audio repair shop) and they're fantastic tools, well worth the occasional hassle of a sore finger while the glass bit works its way out.....

How would CA & accelerator hold up in an exterior painted application ? I need to join two lengths of 4 inch cedar lap board siding for extra length wanting to avoid a butt joint that will expand / contract over time. The glue up will be primed and painted with exterior paint. Summer exposure will reach 150 degrees and winter temps to -20 degrees. Would the glue hold up in your experience?

Where can i buy the PTFE Tube ?

Wow! I just asked a question on the original video and here I am 2 mins later watching you answering my very question!! Amazing

Wonderful video, thank you, so after use do you store the ca glue with the teflon tubing left open? Won’t the tubing get clogged at the end that’s inside the ca dispenser?

Thank you kind sir ! This was excellent.

Awesome bideo!!

Love to see a compilation of your inventions.