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Hi, sorry for the late reply. My infinity has a 0.4mm nozzle and I generally run between 15 and 20psi when I'm doing miniatures and put down multiple very thin layers and build up. I'm currently painting up some MDF necromunda style tiles and using it at 35psi and much more like a spray gun - paint doesn't last anywhere near as long 😆

I am indeed. It's proving to be a great brush for most things. I still use my old Iwata HP-C for anything heavily chemical based as this one uses rubber seals and the HP-C doesn't.

They're basically the same brush but with different nozzle sizes. Personally I prefer the 0.4mm nozzle this brush has with the heavy bodied acrylics that I use is less prone to clogging, however there's pro's and con's with both. The nice bit is as they're both H&S Infinity's you can pick up a nozzle and needle in the "other" size and just change them out as you need to.

I'm still getting on really well thanks. Not had any major dilemmas and still a very comfortable brush to use. Have replaced the nozzle seal once - probably the one point that I'd say is the weakest on the brush as you don't want to over tighten, but risk not a solid seal. That's interesting on the new packing seal system - I'll have to investigate to see if it can be installed into an older brush!

@@RuneBrush Hi, thanks, good to know. I'm not sure if the new packing seal and triggers can be retro fitted as they're used on the "short nosed" special edition. But it seems a sound concept that would make standard H&S Infinity's much better, flawless in fact if such could be retro fitted👍✌️🤞😊

Hiya! Sorry about the delay - don't seem to be getting notifications for some reason! Body is holding up pretty well. Have had to replace some of the seals but other than that, can't really fault the build quality

Your best bet is to search for "Tread Plate Plasticard" and go from there. This piece I've had in a box for well over a decade so not sure it's original origin!

@@RuneBrush ta very much, seems safer than metal mesh I've been recommended before

Really sorry for the late reply (yeah that's an understatement). Yes, any cable that fits the thread of the brush will work - there are converters though for different threads.

@@RuneBrush Thanks for the reply! I’ve owned my COP infinity for a year now and I’ve done so much with it 🤣 My latest being the 4th edition Tau desert camo on their vehicles, looks so good!!

Thanks! I think Necromunda is great as there's so many different facets to tap into :)

I'd not heard that - I'll have to experiment with some bits I've got here, I'm hoping pigment fixer could work.

Thank you! I've done numerous different bases over the years, but most happy with this one now. Neutral but with a bit of colour in

Thanks! It ended up a lot longer than I realised as I was trying to get in loads of little tips - glad you enjoyed!

Glad you're enjoying the videos. That sounds like a great gift there too - am sure that with a bit of engineering thinking you'll created some lovely pieces for your tabletop

Absolutely - loads of room for ideas. This one actually got made into a bar :D

Sorry about the delay in reply - YT didn't notify me of any comments! There's no alcohol content to this stripper at all. If anything it's more akin to Biostrip

It's Benzyl Alcohol. @@RuneBrush

Sorry about the delay in reply - YT didn't notify me of any comments! Thanks for the comments and hope you're getting on well with your airbrush? Hopefully my newer videos should start to improve in quality overall as I've just redone all my camera set up and have additional monitors so I can actually see what I'm doing!

Sorry about the delay in replying. Yes, you can reuse it until it gets really manky and discoloured

I tend to fill as I'm quite OCD about gaps and the plasticard doesn't cover everything. It's completely personal choice though!

... because I liked them very much so far :)

Thanks. Hopefully yes! I'm just uploading one on painting bases. The real world has sadly reared it's head so have basically just had less time to do videos :)

Currently sat on the dining table - sorry! Real life has just been pretty busy over the past 18 months or so - promise I'll get it sorted out soon

All good thanks, just crazy busy! I have just invested in a the bits to improve the rig I've got so hopefully it'll make filming a bit easier

Well you might only trust it once 🤣

Absolutely. Lots of potential for putting extra pipes and random gubbins into the various gaps

I've got the next model ready to record - just need to find some elusive free time to sort that out

Thank you! Am glad this video has helped, I've used mine quite a bit now and it's a lovely brush, despite the price tag!

Thank you!

Thanks!

@@RuneBrush welcome 🙃

At the moment it would appear not, the chap producing it was having some issues with shipping internationally - he's also temporarily run out of stock! However, all is not lost. The next batch he gets he's said (according to the Unto the Breach Twitter account) he's hoping to have sorted out the international shipping issues

They ship international now but the cost is too crazy. I live in Canada and it's like £24 for the 1L bottle and shipping is also £24 but they won't let you add multiple bottles to a single order - doing so the website pops up a warning saying there's a 1 bottle limit per cart. I can't pay $80 CAD just to get a bottle of this - that's outrageous.

@@Weaver_Games I had been wondering about this for weeks thank you for reminding me

Much appreciated!

Thank you!

I can understand that line of thought and there are certainly other options out there, especially if you're not after the metal effect that the boards give and happy to go with something other than plastic. I do think the plastic ones do have benefits - but they are a premium product. My own intention is to mix these into some existing MDF tiles/scenery I picked up years ago

@@RuneBrush So you can print 6" by 6" tiles pretty easily with A cheap little Creality Ender 3 printer. It costs me about 33 cents per square foot to print and if you combine that with Room temperature galvanizing silicone molding you can drop the cost to < 10 cents per foot.

I think it depends entirely on how far you want to go down the rabbit hole of 3d printing and casting. I physically don't have anywhere to set up a 3d printer without losing other hobby space. I'd also say that your cost per square foot is based purely on raw materials. Time, electricity, wasted prints, tidy up and the cost of a $200 printer need to be factored in - your millage will vary hugely if you only use a 3d printer to do a couple of dozen pieces versus printing out hundreds of bits during the lifetime of your printer. I think the TL:DR version is that if you've access to a 3d printer and know what you're up to, it's a great alternative/complement to the more expensive GW ZM stuff. There's some amazing (and free) STL files available on various Necromunda community groups out there too, so you can get some nice pieces without having to do all the kitbashing if that's not your thing.

@@garfieldwithissuez this is a project within my interests.

@@longhunter5935 it's a great hobby overall and you can get into it for around $200 US with a Creality Ender 3 off Amazon. Cheaper than that if you go off Alibaba or some other Chinese company.

Thanks!

I think as time goes on you end up collecting all sorts of different things you can use to achieve subtle (and not so subtle) finishes to break up flat areas. I've used camo patterns on a Maw Krusha once to achieve soft patterning on it's scales that worked pretty well :)

Thanks! Am working out what to do for the next one :)

I'm certainly planning the next one!