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@@427max it was marginal, I could hear some liquid draining once I got the valve loose - which is decent, but an actual dedicated full contact pad like this one is probably better: amzn.to/4jQe5gI

@@Jworkm1641 hah excellent, and I'm glad to see a fellow rage comic enjoyer

I'll think out loud here. As far as I know, the circuit board sends a signal through the thermostats, and as long as it gets the signal back, it'll keep heating the water. If the thermostats are operating normally, they should interrupt that signal when they reach their heat setpoint (140F for the thermostat, 180F for the ECO). You are saying it keeps boiling the water, which could mean either: neither of the thermostats are functioning correctly, or the circuit board is faulty. Now unfortunately, diagnosis here is risky because the dump valve could scald me by surprise. My own curious self would want to use a multimeter to test the continuity of my 140F while the water temperature exceeds that. With the leads unplugged, I'd probe the thermostat, and technically, it should be open - no signal can pass. If that's the case, the thermostat works and would tell me that the circuit board is faulty, and I'd replace the board. However, since I wouldn't want to put myself in harm's way unless I could figure out a safe way to do this without any surprise water dumps, I'd probably just turn everything off, let it cool, and replace the circuit board. Because it seems to me like it's unlikely for BOTH thermostats to be malfunctioning, unless they're somehow not installed correctly and not touching the wall of the water heater. If you spring for a circuit board replacement, I recommend OEM, because a knock-off I tried to use didn't work. Here's the same Dometic board that I used for a different issue: amzn.to/40fMJYo

Thank you! I hope the fix works out for you.

Cool, ignore everything I just said in the video. It *did* removed odors, and any associated congestion symptoms -- that's my experience, not just something I made up. I don't really know what you're even basing the air push theory on -- both configurations are valid so long as there's a tight seal. The tragedy of this is you could've initiated an interesting conversation about which configuration is best, but instead chose to just patronize me, and that's lame. Here's an article by someone who seems to have tested both configurations extensively: smartairfilters.com/en/blog/air-purifier-filter-on-the-front-or-back/

@@BOOTENWAGEN You chose a website that agreed with you. And it's one where the tester didn't know what they were doing and didn't understand their own conclusion. It was not an unbiased or a scientific test, so it holds little value. I'm also not going to battle your feelings or perceptions of experiencing less odors or symptoms. Those are irrational. Science says that filters don't work as effectively in a push configuration. And unless you're using UV/Silver/Carbon/etc. element then you're not removing VOCs, so you're not removing or destroying odors. Most likely you've masked those odors with solvents and out gassing from the tape/glue/plastics and other materials you utilized. So, again, congratulations on your placebo.

@@BOOTENWAGEN Why do you believe that just about EVERY fan produced by a reputable manufacturer in the last 30+ years puts the filters in a pull configuration? Doesn't matter if it's for home, automotive, or commercial applications. Are they just being cheap? Maybe they're not as smart as you? lol. Or, maybe they're realized through testing and good science that this is the best configuration for both performance and filter efficacy. The only time I've heard about filters after the fan being a benefit is for high ISO clean rooms where any contamination spells catastrophe.

@@kennethbutts I did not. You may have a bad connection somewhere. I'd start with the easiest and jiggling the RV to car cable, then making sure that the voltage for the faulty light coming out of the RV is correct, so you know whether the fault is RV side, or car side (or cable side), then go from there.

I have the exact same issue. And i install these all the time at work. But first tine installing on bronco. Did you figure it out. One side dim and other side bright?

@@arc2226 does the water reach the proper temperature if you're using propane, or does it shut off prematurely this way as well?

Yes, on propane, the water heats up to 145°F with no problem.

I see, that's peculiar. Because if the propane shuts off at 145 F, that would indicate to me that the thermostat is still functioning - but still worth a try to replace if maybe the thermostat is in some kind of "in between" state. How soon does the electric heater shut off? I had a somewhat different issue where the electric side didn't turn on at all, but the propane still worked, and I had to replace the entire circuit board: amzn.to/4223dFZ

@@BOOTENWAGEN Now it looks like I have no electrical power on the heater, but propane is fine. I think I may have the same situation that you described. I'll try a new circuit board to see if that works. It says I can return if needed. Thank you for your input!

@@arc2226 you're welcome, I hope it works out! Yes, and returns are always good - I bought an off-brand board, and the propane side didn't work right, so I had to go with the Dometic, but worth the money saving shot.

I just measured - about 53 inches

@ awesome thanks😎

@@fuelmanadventures5800 sure thing. This is a two door by the way, I don't remember if I've shown that explicitly in the video.

@ you did, trying to figure out my setup if i go for the 2 door bronco, only issue is with my shot gun, but i can take it apart easy, all other riffles will fit👍🏻, all i need to do now is lose some weight so i can carry all my stuff without going over the maximum payload limit🤣🤣🤣

@@fuelmanadventures5800 lol I see, gotcha. Maybe you could also do a lockable roof rack so you don't have to disassemble it? Either way, Happy New Year!

Oh wow, will you be living there in an RV?

It came installed with the range.

Buy the Atwood brand easier to install

Thank you!

I appreciate that, thank you!

Maybe a faulty/leaky water valve at the toilet? Does your RV seem like it weeps water into the bowl when you *are* hooked up to water?

@@BOOTENWAGEN Doesn't leak when we're using it, or its so little that we don't notice it in between us using the bathroom multiple times daily. When it sits for a month, we're not using it and that slow accumulation then becomes noticeable.

That's great, I'm glad!

Might try doing a continuity check on the thermal fuse, make sure it's not blown.

Excellent! I'm happy it helped.

Sure thing! I'm happy you found value in it!

You know, that would explain a lot! I'm surprised BlueOx couldn't tell me that. Thank you!

Outstanding! Sure thing - I'm glad it worked.

I'm glad to hear that! Thank you!

Hot dog! That's awesome, I'm glad it worked!

I'm glad you enjoyed it! Thank you!

@@iflystuff I appreciate that, thank you! I will!

Sure thing, I'm glad it worked!

Alas yes, no panacea has come to my mind when it comes to cleaning - even bleach doesn't seem to cut the mustard. We also dry the inside of the curtain, then keep it partially open while running the bathroom fan all day. Seems to have kept it the mold at bay.

@christineb9836 we figured out an actual miracle way to clean the shower curtain! Check it out: ruclips.net/video/qcFVBYzcucY/видео.html

Nice, that's good advice, especially for not having to go out of your way for specialty supplies. I was just kind of guessing that something foaming was needed like the HVAC tech guys on RUclips used to really get far into the radiator.

Thank you. That's my real voice 😔- but I hear you, I've been trying to have more enthusiasm in my videos lately.

Sorry about the late reply -- I do have a whole video on how we repaired the awning, with what you're specifically looking for at around the two minute mark: ruclips.net/video/zoR31rk00nk/видео.html

That's awesome, really happy that my diagram was helpful! (And apparently accurate!)

I thought it was good at what it did. Water became noticeably cleaner, maintenance was easy, and the unit seemed well built. I'd probably buy it again if I had the need.

The more you know! Yeah, we started keeping dessicants in some of the closets. We also got this teeny Hall effect type of dehumidifier, but it was extremely ineffective. The number of climate control devices got out of hand here in a hurry as we travelled all the climate zones - space heater, air purifier, humidifier, and dehumidifier lol.

@@BOOTENWAGEN The gadgets add up fast. don't they.

Wow still huh? My guess is they try to manufacture way too many variants and flavors of RVs and are having a very hard time keeping quality control straight.

@@BOOTENWAGEN they have updated the bird in the 2023 vegas I am working on to a 00-00956-00 potted bi directional isolator relay . my milliamp draw was only 75ma which is good for about 2-3 weeks. 30 milliamps is usually good for a month. that quarter amp draw from your radio head unit seems high even for stand by mode. I have seen sub woofer amps and other cheap china audio stuff pull upwards of 150 ma (sleeping mode) but never more than that. The only beef I have with Thor is lack of documentation & the position of the relay and bird is right in front behind the grill which allows a lot of water to cause corrosion.

@@BOOTENWAGEN 11:00 min mark you mention that the red wire did not make any difference with blown fuse. Sounds like the rig has a stuck internal state on. that is why its pulling so much power. More china junk

Hah well now you really might as well get one. And thank you for checking out this channel, I really appreciate it!

I guess we got lucky!