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I made this video because I knew how to change a spur gear, I just didn't know what I needed to take apart to change the spur on a revo. Changing gear ratios should be a track side adjustment and only take a minute. The only other video I found on the steps to change this gear was like 15 minutes long and involved removing the speed controller, which is attached with servo tape. This isn't supposed to be a step by step on how to change gears, this is supposed to be a quick video to show the steps to get the spur swapped. When I needed to change the gear, I knew for a fact it was a simple job and was extremely frustrated that the only video I could find was literally 10 times longer than what the task should take.

That's ok if you dont like it. This wasn't supposed to be a tutorial for people who don't know how to work on them. Traditionally on RC cars, a spur gear should be as easy to change as a tire. When I made this, I spent 45 minutes looking, and there were exactly zero videos on how to do it.

You don't need a switch, you could just leave it permanent. But that means there will not be any safety remaining, depending on how you wire it. If you google something like "tj locker bypass" you should find some instructions on how to do it. I think "wanderingtrail" might have a decent explanation.

@@clayrev cool thanks, don't take offense, but I don't see the need for a locker bypass switch that you need to use every time you want to lock the front and rear deff. Just use a more permanent fix. Thanks again.

@shnobi24 it just let's you bypass the factory enable conditions... only allows use in 4low, must be going less than 15 mph to engage, automatically disengages at 45mph. One reason I like to have a factory setting is in case I let someone else drive. Same with the clutch safety. You let someone in there that doesn't know what they are doing and someone could literally get run over.

@shnobi24 no offense taken, just have to be careful with non factory stuff.

@@clayrev I see your point, to let someone drive the Jeep without knowing would cause a lot of damage or worse.

Stock arms, but aluminum brace and limiter straps. Haven't had any issues.

Yeah, I was putting batteries in it one day and noticed one of the wires was chafing so I just slapped some tape on it to help it out.

@@clayrev use heat shrink next time

This video wasn't supposed to be for beginners. When I made this, it was because I could not find the steps to change the gear. I found a 10+ minute video that involved removing the ESC, and that is not correct. I just wanted to know the steps for the fastest way, so that is what the video shows. Heck, this might not even be the fastest way, but at least it doesn't involve un-sticking servo tape.

Were you not able to get yours changed with these instructions?

Did you set the mesh right?

Yeah, I guess now that you mention it, the camera work is crap. I was so frustrated when I made this because I spent 10 minutes looking for instructions on how to do this and all I found was a 10 minute + video on how to do it the wrong way. (OK, maybe it wasn't the wrong way, but it was far from the best way.) And then I ended up having to figure it out myself, which only took like 10 minutes. Changing out the gears is something that should only take a few minutes. I wouldn't have even had to do this if it was assembled correctly at the factory. If you make or find a better video, I will link to it in this description. By the way, this is exactly the kind ov video I was looking for to show me what to do to swap the spur, minus the camera work.

No, for 4WS, you need to use a 3rd channel. Tank mixing is for mixing throttle and steering. I have not done 4WS on the NB4 yet, but it should be available.

@@clayrev thanks. I figured it out. Button mapping.

I like it quite a bit, considering I don't have a lot of time with it. I got it for my RC Mower project (ruclips.net/p/PLAJRpgXvKSB2jEnKz9wPtJLemA2A6hemv) but ran out of funds at the end of the year. Hopefully I can continue working on it this spring. Note that I am using 3 MIXES, not 3 channels. It still only uses channels 1 and 2. I might try to make it work with less mixing in the future.

It's been a while since I had it out, I think it's just the one screw from the front; just over from the silver colored screw.

@@clayrev thanks. I did find the screw to take the cover off. I didn't look hard enough. Thanks for the reply. Enjoy your weekend. Scott

As far as I know, there are only the 4 screws and the one on the motor, but it does not let it move very much, even with those 4 out because of the drive shafts. After I made this video, I found someone that said you can do it without loosening the center dif. I did struggle quite a little bit to get the gear out and in. I think there is a sweet spot. This was the first and only time so far swapping this. I ended up taking out the 3 screws on the gear and the 3 on the cush drive thing because I didn't know any better.

@@clayrev It worked! Removing the 4 screws let me wiggle the center to get the spur gear on! My gosh.. Thank you! That's what I was missing.. The 4 screws don't let you remove the center differential but gave me enough wiggle to fig the spur gear between the esc. Thanks again

@@jrocsworld you are welcome. My video helped at least one person, so I guess it was worth it! I know I'm not very good at making videos, but I will try to do better in the future. I probably should have mentioned that the point of taking the screws out was to get the wiggle room needed.

@@clayrev You definitely have great intentions because I felt just like you.. "Why is every video 10-20 mins long.. There has to be a better way to do this" and you found and it and posted. Thanks again!

I made this video because when I was looking for one I had to wade through a bunch of 10 minute videos to find what I wanted. I literally spent more time trying to find a video of how to change the part than it actually takes to change the part.

I just rubbed it not quite flat on a piece of sand paper so one side was a little thinner than the other. Basically you want to have a small amount of gas flow all the time passed the lever valve, and then full flow when you press the valve. The next time I used it though, it ended up just leaking full speed. I was told that once you get a leak like that in rubber, it can erode quickly, so I need to re-think my calibrated leak path. I need to use it again soon, so hopefully I can fix it and report back. Hind sight I would probably go with one that was designed this way...I thought this one was. Also, electronic igniter would be good to have too.

I bought one of these and plan to crack seal with it by melting the rope style asphalt. I just want a slow idle and not have it shut off all the time. I would zip tie the handle or remove it and use the flow control valve for everything. There might be a metal/brass washer to fit your mod but cutting a zip tie and adjusting flow is pretty easy and gets you back to stock.

@@clayrev Just bought one of these and was disappointed it didn't function this way stock ☹