- Видео 21
- Просмотров 12 024
Andy Fearn
Добавлен 17 окт 2011
BSA B31 1949 Gearbox Layshaft End Play/Float... ?
Couple of issues putting this gearbox back together
Просмотров: 106
Видео
BSA B31 Worn Centre Stand/Engine Plates
Просмотров 225Месяц назад
More wear & tear on this multi million mile B31
BSA B31 Rigid Gearbox 1949
Просмотров 353Месяц назад
Well..... While I'm pulling things apart might as well have a look in the gearbox :)
BSA 1949 B31 Engine Running pre rebuild
Просмотров 9042 месяца назад
The sound ain't great but you can hear the grumbling bearings
1949 BSA B31 Engine Rebuild part 2
Просмотров 1 тыс.2 месяца назад
Well its all apart and looking very tired:(
1949 BSA B31 Engine Rebuild
Просмотров 6782 месяца назад
Just a quick look at my B31 engine disassembly
Re-Oiling Oilite Bearings/Bushes BSA B31
Просмотров 865 месяцев назад
so i bought some new old stock top Bushes for my 1949 BSA B31... The seller believed these were of the oilite type so they are self lubricating :) but I'm guessing after all these years they might have lost a bit so had a go at re oiling.
Matchless AJS Front Bearing Spindle Removal.... Follow up :(
Просмотров 4852 года назад
It's toast.... :(
Matchless AJS Front Wheel Bearing Spindle Removal... Mess...
Просмотров 9052 года назад
I was refurbishing the forks on my new to me 59 G12.... Unfortunately i noticed the front wheel bearings we're very notchy and rough. So had to remove to inspect.
BMW E31 1997 840 INPA Software and ADS cable.
Просмотров 1,9 тыс.8 лет назад
BMW E31 1997 840 INPA Software and ADS cable.
I hope mine is better than that inside.
@@scottheyden6963 good chance it will be 👍 i should have walked away from this one.
@@andyfearn6609 it's running, so I don't think I'll delve too far into it. Planning on stripping my T120R later this year.
I used to own a hard tail B31 as a young boy. I used to ride it around the LBC clay pits. Bought 4 star with my paper round money. Great bike. I would like to buy one to keep.
@@EnglishVeteran Hi.... I have a feeling this might have also been used as a bit of a farm yard toy in it's life.... It was completely covered in mud... Grease and sand. Wish I'd have filmed removing the dried mud. Cheers
Hi Andy , that little plug is called a frost plug over here , like they used on BMC minis , anyway to fit it sit it on a socket and lightly press a ball pein hammer into it to make it more concave then put sealant into the recess like shellac and use about a 10mm flat punch to go around and around until it is nearly flat but not pushed in . Hope this helps . Cheers
@@Cobra427Veight Cheers seems to be a few names for them..... Welch/welsh plug seems popular too.... Found some right size on the ebay.... But good point on a little sealant... I will use some. Merry Christmas 🎄
Remove the carbon off the exhaust guide before you remove it.
@@hunterjamison4808 good point will do .... 👍
If you remove the valve lifter assembly note the rotational timing!
@@hunterjamison4808 thanks for the comment.... How do you mean bud?
The lifter assembly attaches with a splined shaft. Just mark where it is rotationally before disassembly. Otherwise it’s bothersome upon re-assembly. It can open the valve too much, or too soon, or too late, or not enough. A righteous pain for me anyway!
@@hunterjamison4808 cheers i will mark everything up
Looks pretty good. You were lucky with that spring eh? Much better than my gearbox was. RusselL Motors are very helpful, they had tons of nos m20 bits. How is the rear wheel sprocket? they are rivetted on and difficult to replace. Not done mine yet. All the best, Pat
@@PATRICKWOODGER funny you say that about the rear sprocket.....it looks more like a medieval torture device than a motorcycle sprocket. For another video :)
@@andyfearn6609Looking forward to it. Great bike
Good work
Enjoying the vid's, looking forward to seeing it running. My prewar Beeza has the same design of Burman gearbox, they are clunky. You have to hold the gear change lever up or down depending on which way you're changing, then ease the clutch out until you feel it go into gear. When changing down, you have to come to an almost stand still to avoid crunching gears. I made new pins for the gear change mechanism, any play at all will translate into dodgy gear change.
@@vintageenthusiast9615 Thanks.... Yeah hopefully getting going by the spring in the UK... I'm trying to be mindful of expecting too much from a 75 year old gearbox. Although the AMC box on my Matchless is lovely to operate.
Thanks for showing that felt washer. I was scratching my head over the location of that, having heard it mentioned, but can't see it on any parts list or schematic. Draganfly do list one for early models, bit the photo makes it look like one for the other end of the pushrod. And gives the impression that it's an early version of the larger rubber sprocket seal. My gearbox sprocket isn't as bad, but is worn, and has 19 teeth, but should be 20, so I've got a replacement on the way. I'm gonna leave the bushes, but about to replace both bearings. The replacement large one came with rubber seals ? Any thoughts on leaving or removing those ? My gear selecter has very worn teeth, and I just got a NOS one arrive. Btw there is mention In the original road tests that when new, the B's were prone to a false neutral between 2nd and 3rd, but no mention as to the cause. Thanks for posting these vids, apart from the inspiration, every picture is worth a thousand words, when forgetting how things go back together. Good luck with it. Regards S.
@@StevenLawrence-f3t Hi Steven... Yup the felt washer surprised me... First time i ever opened up one of these... I have ordered a few parts... I'll post another video. PES who i bought the 2 ball race's from mention the seals on the bearings being beneficial . I haven't read any period road tests funny enough... I'll have a look. I'm only recording for a bit of fun but thanks 🙏
I bent the shim, sprocket washer , removing the bearing, so the replacement arrived today, I'm going to file the sharp wear lip from bigger one on the inner side of the bearing. The ball bearing on the lever arm had a big flatspot. I got an NOS one but the ball is siezed and the thread a tad rusty. I tried electrolysis to clean up my many rusty bits. A pain and not very effective. I've found, soaking stuff in citric acid solution, for a couple of days, way better and easier. Comes up like new Regs S.
Hi Andy I've been working on my 54 b33 , just make sure the banjo feed bolts have a .040" hole , I also aligned the rocker shaft groove to go past the oil hole in the rocker , you can check the oiling with the rocker covers off , I just put up a video of my B33 on my channel. Cheers.
@@Cobra427Veight Hi Thanks for info much appreciated
sounds as if its got sand in the main bearings, new bearings, seals, rings and maybe a rebore and that is perfect.
Ha ha yeah does a bit.... They had heavy pitting from corrosion
Sounds all right to me
@@ashleybremner7474 yeah it didn't sound that bad to be fair..... But the bearings were fracked :)
I had a B31 back in the 60s. I never managed to get the push rod tunnel to seal at the top, always had a dribble of oil running down the outside.
@@gerry343 yerrr funny enough that c spanner collar is completely destroyed as well.... Another part to add to the list :)
@@andyfearn6609 I guess they made it that design to allow for the relative expansion of the alloy tunnel and cast iron cylinder.
@@gerry343 good point👍
Fixer up , don't worry about the $ too much , it will be great for the mind when it's all done , I really enjoy riding my 54 b33 , I had lots to fix as well . Cheers
@@Cobra427Veight absolutely... I'll get a kick out of it when finished. Highs N Lows of messing with old vehicles.... I'll grow out of it one day :)
can you not use bearing fit? I am putting a b33/ b34 crank in my b31, it was rebuilt but not by me. the barrel is off and the crank feels ok. will know more when i split the cases
@@PATRICKWOODGER yeah could do. Plenty of products out there for this. Still having a think. Cheers.
@@andyfearn6609 I had a loose bearing on the crank on my a65 firebird. i used loctite bearing fit but had to add a shim behind it. It was so well fixed it took a hell of a lot of heat and persuasion to move it. If it's not that loose it doesn't actually rocks i wouldn't worry, with a new bearing it's not a problem, main thing is the big end is good. I bought a bantam many years ago from him. The v5 didn't match either the frame or engine number and I had paid for delivery and he kept making excuses, took months. Never again
Bad Luck. Am thinking metal spraying for the bearing journal,and that the cam lobes might be repaired by building up with weld [Nickel based rod ?] and ground back Although not mentioning the condition of the cylinder you did say you had plenty of compression.Could the existing piston not be re-used with new rings and honed barrel,?.
@@56REME yeah bit of shame... Just weighing up the options at moment. They are fixable ...but it's how much i invest in getting them repaired (apparently the shafts need separating from flywheel to recut) versus finding a healthier used one. The cylinder could go again with a hone and fresh rings. Im in the tricky spot of drawing the line :)
@@andyfearn6609 Not so sure the shafts would have to be removed,but you would need a lathe with a reasonably large centre height to accomodate the diameter of the flywheel for sure.Thinking too that the faces of the followers will be pretty damaged going by the state of the cams,but to reface [weld/regrind] those would be relatively easy.
@56REME interesting... Luckily the followers have survived and i have found some good used cams... I'll pop a video of the head and cam followers next and keep thinking about the crank. Just glad i didn't carry on running the poor thing.Cheers for advice 👍
Touring cams are a straight fit
@@keesstam909 cheers..will have a search....do you know the bsa part numbers by any chance.
I have gold star touring cams in my B31, works really great
@@keesstam909interesting ....any other modifications required? I was about to buy nos standard cams off the ebay.
I am at a similar stage as you with a B33. So watching with interest. I was trying to post a pic of the B31/3 tuning notes. But am suffering technophobia. The only stuff the basic notes say is to fit touring cams and a 7.5:1 piston. Yours looks to be a 6.8:1 piston. Like mine. Bear in mind there are two types, depending on long or short conrod. But you seem to be on top of things. I've been on a learning curve, with this motor also. I did just buy some goldie cams from ebay, so may have some standard ones left, at the end. Regards Steve.
@@StevenLawrence-f3t thanks steve... I bought some good used standard cams.... And I'll post a couple more vids when it goes back together 👍...
Do you have a source for those cams ? , my B33 could do with some of those , there's a video on my channel of it .
Lovely bike!
You loaded E34 not E31
Your right i did... my mistake... funny how it still worked....(i did put an edit for in the description) the only module that my set up didn't read was the cruise control.....
I already ordered I did follow your guide and download the Inpa yesterday but the version was updated and does not support ADS anymore. Do you still have downloaded file of INPA from last year. I have 750IL 1998 would love to be able to fix few issues with INPA ADS Interface support. Would you be able to share it. Regards, Tom
Nice, Where did buy the ads interface and software?
Hi ...... Just search "openlabs tiny ads".... thats where i got mine