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@@drockjones1315 so I REALLY like this cam. I think if I were to do it again I’d consider the no springs required “NSR” version. It sounds nearly identical and is proven to make the same power on stock valve springs. I personally think if I had an LS1 trans am I’d go with more of a car cam like a BTR stage 2 or 3 LS1, but the Truck Norris is awesome on any LS so I’d recommend it regardless. I actually recently converted over to a carbureted setup, in this video I was using stock LS1 injectors. I haven’t taken the truck on the street yet (hoping to very soon) so I can’t speak much to the torque converter. I wish I had a lower stall though, I got this 4K one on a trade. I’d consider going with a OEM trailblazer converter I believe they stall stock at like 2200

Appreciate the response. This is my first go round with hot rodding. My Ws6 is a family heirloom so I'm making it a fairly mild build that's why I chose the Truck Norris cam over some of the more extreme cams. I'm excited to get it installed and tuned. I'll probably throw a 3200-3400 stall and 3:73s at it over the winter.

@@drockjones1315 that’ll be a beast 👍🏻 always liked the WS6 cars

@@safwanhassan1885 I’ll take an update video soon, I’m hoping to actually get it on the road this week. I swapped it over to a carbureted setup which set me back a bit

I actually sold the car about a year ago unfortunately. Interesting point about the secondary intake valves getting dirty, I believe it. Gotta say though, if a full bolt on Cobra is only making 30 more hp than mine was stock… I wouldn’t say mine was too unhealthy 😂 that’s why I never put much money into performance mods on these, Ford didn’t leave a lot on the table in terms of NA power. Best option was to go forced induction

@mattgulian6009 The only big component I had that you didn't were BBK longtubes. Other parts were different, but I'm sure the gains were similar. I tore in at 40K miles to check the IMRCs because it was sitting at 270whp FBO, and I didn't feel it was up to snuff. Cleaning freed up over 25 wheel. I sold mine over 20 years ago, but I still miss it dearly. One of the cars over the years that I shouldn't have let go of.

@@elektrosmokes1911 nice! Yeah they are great cars

I used the dirty dingo 2WD mounts. They have some adjustability

Thanks sir I’ll give them a try!

@@MrPicklePiece I use the Holley mounts and my power steering was hitting power steering rack so I had to get a Corvette style drive belt accessories, but I heard people that use dirty dingo or from current performance motor mounts actually got away with the power steering from a truck

Nope, it runs great on the stock tune

Man, it was a while ago when I bought them, I think it was American Muscle

@@mattgulian6009link?

Where did you get the ball studs?

I’d say these are 99% for looks. They probably keep dirt off the coils but not enough to make it worth it if that’s all you want

Dirty secondary intake valves/IMRC plates is my guess. My full bolt-on 96 un-tuned laid down 296 AFTER I cleaned the disgusting secondary intake valves. This was a very very long time ago, but I remember being shocked at both how dirty the ports were, and also how much more alive the car was up top after taking care of the issue.

😂 that is the plan!

Thanks man! I’ll have to hook a vacuum gauge up and let you know. I did have to leave a vacuum port open past the throttle body to get it to idle on the stock tune

Thanks man! Love those R/T Dakotas, almost bought one actually

No one thought those were fast or powerful in 1996

@@HioSSilver1999 cool

It's over 25 years old going on 30 now.

260 whp is pretty good for a STOCK 280cu in motor lol

How much horsepower was a LT1 350 Camaro putting down in 1996?

​@@fastfordman1965285 hp 325 tq. They were slower than these cobras which had 305 hp 300 tq but at higher revs. What these cars need is a steep gear, sticky tire and the driver mod. That makes most difference per dollar by far.

THE best sounding. Coyotes sound great but I wouldn’t trade me 96 cobra for 3 of them…

⁠@@huntercraig1004Id take that trade sell the coyotes buy my 96 back then buy 5 more cobras lol

Wow I guess technology improved over 15 years, who woulda known

What a fucking idiot. Bet it weighs a thousand pounds more, is FWD and automatic and no fun to drive too. Move on peasant.

Doubt that hp at the wheels and crank are different bud

You are clueless. What did your 2011 Buick dyno at the tires? Gaurantee it was less than this unless it's modified.

​@@mattgulian6009except 1s meant for speed while the others a family grocery getter, with more power. Doesn't matter, there's year 2000 cars making more power than current 23 year later cars. Duurp

the 97 cobra could come from the factory with no spoiler but it was only the 97 out of the 96-98 era

Haha agreed, the tire letters are nearly entirely faded now, they will not be replaced

These cars look cool without rear wings ecspecially if you're running an aggressive wide tire like a 315 out back I'd run like 17x9 on front 17x10.5 on the rear 275 and 315 respectively

I’ve thought about going H pipe, but honestly I like the sound of the X a bit better. 10K might not be too bad man. Can always go with a GT as well

Nice man, that’s a solid deal! That’s definitely one to hold onto with that low of miles, great color combo too

@@mattgulian6009 Thanks Matt

you didnt get beat on it, around here with 20-50K go for around $12-20K I paid $8K for mine but it has lots of work done including supercharger and its a convertible, looks good but has 98K miles you did good

It's a cobra from like 20 years ago what did you expect?

It's a cobra from like 20 years ago what did you expect?

@@Panchitoisdead714 LS numbers.. that was it's main competition

@@boomerdc dude a Camaro of the same year is like 10 hp difference

@@Panchitoisdead714 maybe, but performance wise there's a vast world of difference

That's the right number. Exhaust and a tune he could hit 270-280 plus

Yeah 260ish is pretty standard for these stock, the car did have a JLT intake and O/R xpipe in this video on stock tune. Those mods don’t really do much for power

@@mattgulian6009 that is wrong those mods do make power on these cars even without a tune. You should be easily in the mid 270 range bone stock cars do 260+. A jlt intake and a midpipe is prob good for a good 15+ rwhp above stock.

@@Himothy474 I disagree the mods he had should see north of 270 easily. Bone stock cars do 260+. These cars def benefit from jlt intakes and they must def benefit from catless midpipes even with a stock tune. Those mods plus exhaust and tune should see easily in the mid 280 whp range. With long tube headers and a ported short runner you can see over 300 to the wheels.

I agree those numbers are close for a bone stock car but jlt intake and catless x should for sure be over 270 easily imo.

This looks 100times cleaner

For no reason at all?? Lol you sir sound lazy as fuck!!! Some people like their shit looking clean as fuck

ryan422423 I’d go for it man! They’re a lot of fun. Mine wasn’t too much more than that (paid 6300 back in 2014 with similar miles). They’re super affordable to maintenance as well (accept for 4v engine parts)

If you haven’t bought it or never did, watch the odometer when driving. Work gear known to break

darkhoasi7k thanks man!

Southern White Boy thanks man!

orange1soda thanks for the comment 👍🏻

The lettering is on the tires.. not the wheels/rims💀