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Ok good idea.

Hey man. Great video. Curious. How do you get so much pressure out of your system? We currently don't get nearly that much lol

I have these windows. The blinds pop in and out as a unit in a second, way easier to clean them with the blinds out plus you can get to all the glass. Roll them up and there is a pull tab on the opposite side from the slider, pull the tab out away from the glass and a geared shaft disconnects the blinds from the side. Bigger windows will have support clip in the middle you need to unlatch first. They are still a pain...

Hard water build up, I have tried everything to no avail. Good job cleaning dirt, etc though. Thanks

Great video! I love cleaning glass. Did you say brass wool to help with the stubborn grime? i have been using 0000 steel wool. Yes it does rust after it gets wet but hopefully will not scratch the glass.

Thank you for this helpful video.

Hey There, I just bought this squeegee combo, Moerman accelerator and moerman liquidator with unger green rubber, and l'm having issues using with this, whenever I use it I have to use a ton of pressure otherwise it won't even get rid of the solution on the window and leaves a lot of streaks. And whenever I come to the bottom of the window and I come back up because I left a mark, it sticks to the window really hard. Am I doing something wrong? And also when you just got this squeegee combo, where you also having a lot of troubles and had to get used to it?

Try removing your face mask and maybe I could understand what you are saying

LF husband

I am retired from 35+ years of window tinting. I first noticed this issue in the mid 1990's. I called PPG (Pittsburgh Plate Glass) and talked with an engineer. He told me, back then, that the 'particles' are a result of poor manufacturing: either too low tempering furnace temperatures, or: debris on the furnace rollers from improper cleaning. Since then most glass manufacturers (including PPG) say that is a myth, that NO glass was never meant to be cleaned with razor blades - ever - in the history of glass windows! Yeah, right, that's why there is an entire global industry that has catered to razor scrapers for glass for over a century! Also, I noticed that window manufacturers actually changed (in the 1990's I believe it was) the wording of the "how to care for windows" stickers that are on new windows to say 'never use a razor to clean'. Anyway, I have never encountered tempered glass manufactured before the 1990's that would scratch. (and there were a lot of older commercial buildings I tinted). The newer, cheaper tempering processes that include 'chemical' tempering will almost ALWAYS result in scratchy finished surface. That is why that "insulated" tempered units SHOULD be assembled with the tempered surface as surface #2 or #3, which would be surfaces that face into the insulating space. That is the same surface that the manufacturers logo's, marks and codes are etched on. If that etching is NOT between the glass panels, or it is a single pane commercial door, then the chances that the surface will scratch is nearly 100%. The same is true for LOW_E coatings. If the coating is NOT on surface #2 or #3 your razor will leave dark gray streaks as the "silver" is scratched and instantly starts oxidizing. I think some window manufacturers actually proudly proclaim that the LOW_E surface is #1 or #4 on their premium windows!!! The most efficient surface is actually #2 (as counted from the outside surface as #1). I have turned down 1000's of $ worth of work because I WOULD not scrape walls of glass on the lakefront side that I PROVED to the contractor were going to be scratched. The physics of tempered glass made it way too dangerous to do. The surface scratches WILL concentrate stress that the tempering is supposed to absorb/mitigate/relieve. Window glass industry actually have detailed pictures and charts on how to determine if a crack/fracture is from impact or thermal stress, but disavow any knowledge or repeatable demonstration that tempered glass in now much worse in surface quality. Hope this helps someone who is "BLAMED" for scratching a customers window .

What kind of pole are you using

Talk too much

Thanks so much for this video.

ruclips.net/video/sfmAeijj5cM/видео.htmlsi=Lrqp8mgVKsoWI4qo

🔥🔥🔥

Do you still like using the liquidator? What rubber do u use? I’ve used Ettore master and it seems to leave streaks on the window no matter what I do and I’ve heard Steve-o on his YT channel talk about that too, I want to like it but I can’t get good clean results. Any suggestions ? Great work BTW

Thanks for sharing

Nice description of the scratches.

No towels for detail? Window is already clean? Cleaning a clean window lol anyone can do that, they should actually do a dirty window and compete to have it done the fastest without any spots or streaks

Where did you get your suction cup?

Where did you get your suction cup?

In the sun, I don't think so! The water dries out too fast even when using Super Slip. This is BS!

The cheapest windows

nice mask goofball

During a window cleaning yesterday, we noticed several windows with the tempered glass stamp printed backwards. I took that to mean perhaps that the window was assembled incorrectly with the wrong surface exposed to the exterior. We chose to not use steel wool but opted for magic erasers instead. Have you ever encountered this?

Some great skills and tools there. Looks like you use 40° in hand, I'm partial to 10° and 25 in hand mostly.

Thank you so much for not putting a brass channel on that race car! You truly have an Excelerator.

What solution are you using?

What is the magic solution used on the windows? *Eye must haves*

I commend you four bucket placement safety. I'm seeing some blue and black attack in your tools.

Nice work man!!!

Thank you!

Very enjoyable video. Thank you.

P R O M O S M 🌟

Is it possible to put the ETTORE brass channel on unger 0? What is the difference between Ettore brass channel and Unger brass channel ?

A wise choice of squeegee, I also cut the blade at 90°.

Would you use any other type of tool to pop them open? Some type of pry tool?

Looks difficult washing behind those blinds, way to keep focus bro... awesome video

Sorry about the edit "Title Text Here", OOPS 😬 Customer was talking, so I muted the video.

Hello, is Drywalker Flex really comfortable?

The problem I always have is the drips that occur between the plastic borders on the outside of the windows. I’ve cleaned windows for 15 years, and I have yet to find a more efficient way than the ways in your video. Thanks for sharing though!

Great choice of tools! Your in the "one detailing towel a day"club!

I hav. 10" tht works great so I jut picked up n 18". However due to the length it gets floppy in he middle an gets caught on the handle. Causing it not to flip back properly.... hope I'm just missing something and it's not a flaw of th 18" version? Anyone else successfully used an 18" fliq?

Really excellent videos

👍🏻👈🏻

How do u clean the bottom of the window full of water ?🤔

You make it look so easy! Great video!

👍👍👍👍👍

Great belt setup.

This is super satisfying! 🔥 🔥 🔥