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I read about the medicinal value of dandelions so I ate one. Oh my it tasted horrible. I enjoyed this show .

Oh Hell. I have been smoking it, and not eat it lol. Just Kidding. I Live in Texas and pick that wild lettuce, I eat that, and also make Pain Killers with it, and Wild Garlic also grown in the wild here. Thank you for this info video. There are Many people who don't even know what grows in there back yard. You have a New Sub :).

Good information

have you googles how many calories are in greens, most roots, berries? it's negligible, relative to the effort involved. just walking a mile, on flat pavement, unburdened, at room temps, burns 100 calories per mile, at room temps, Having to fight hills, mud, brush, wind, dampness, cold, carrying 30 lbs of camera gear everywhere, Late in fall, the only plant food worthy of consideration would be nuts and acorns and they put you where neither one is viable. Ditto cattail roots, The only viable thing is make lots of netting out of a cotton rope hammock, If they limit how much netting you can have "in the water' , netting can be wrapped around a stick box frame and used to catch birds (entire flocks) and rabbits. Your baited weir can be made of sticks and stones, so that your gillnet can be used as a seine, several times per day. The seine can force fish from 4-5 ft deep water into the weir, which is in 18" of water. You need at least 30 lbs of whole fish and 30 lbs of fish left overs as bait for a bear. Boil the leftovers, which makes the fat rise to the top. cool the ceramic pot (made on-site) in the river/lake and skim the fat off of the top of the water. Make a stake and log bait box for a bear, 10m from your tree blind. . this is NOT luck, which IS the only thing that puts a moose on yur little 2.5 sq miles of allotted land! Bears can detect the stench of a rotting pile of fish from miles away and that's exactly what you need. Locate this bait 3/4 of a mile away and downwind of your shelter. when you approach it, go 1/4 mile past it and work back upwind toward the bait box/blind. You can be making more netting as you sit in the blind. Sleep in the blind, too, with a string from the bait box to your ankle, so you will be awakened when a bear is on the box. A 200 lb bear is small one, but ready to hibernated it is 25% bodyfat. So it's 200,000 calories, if you save the brain, marrow, blood.. That's enough food to lose no weight for 60 days. if you just hole up in your shelter. You can catch enough fish and peel enugh cambium to lose no weight for a week, take enough gorp and pemmican to lose no weight for 3 days, Virtually any american can stand to lose 30 lbs and many can stand to lose 60 lbs. You wont lose a lb per day if you're "holed-up" conserving your calories. So that bear is a huge factor,. In fact, ti's the win.

Awesome amount of work completed

What a great job, I know how much work it is but you make it look easier than it is and fun too. Which knife do you use while you’re out there. I may have to go back and look around your videos to see.

Man i hope you get on alone !

Well it sucks the door didnt work out. But i bet the next one will lol. The shleters looking great and you about got it whooped!

Wow! I think that doors gonna work this time I wish I would have had an awesome door system like that on my shelter.

This is great! Thank you for taking the time to video this class for us. You're the man!

everyone makes the same silly cub scout crud that they learned from a book. If you want to WIN, you have to NOT do what all of the other losers have done. this challenge is won or lost while you're still at home. Do NOT take the axe, bow, saw, paracord, gillnet, belt knife, fishing kit, snarewire, cookpot, ferrorod, sleeping bag. Instead, take the reflective 12x12 tarp, the reflective, XL size reflective tyvek bivy, the rations of gorp and pemmican, the 3 lb block of sea salt, the 2 person cotton rope hammock, the big roll of Gorilla tape, the saw edged shovel, the modified Crunch multtiool, and one of Chief Aj's slingbows. with take down, 3 piece arrows. Take only 3 broadheads. The remaining 6 arrows should feature Zwickey judohead blunt tips and flu-flu fletching, so you dont lose/damage so many arrows and waste so much time looking for them.

rocks dont fly straight enough (from the slingbow) for use on anything but small fish in 6" or less of water, almost straight down in front of you.. You can use the back of the shovel (long handle) to slap the water over the fish in such a situation, and the blow will stun them. they will float to the surface and you can either flip the onto the shore or put them in your pockets, bag, etc.

at first you stone boil 5 gallons of water in a pit, lined with the reflective tyvek bivy, twice per week 1 hour each time , instead of boiling 2 qts at a time, 3x per day, 1/2 hour at a time. Over an 80 day period, that saves you a week of time and calories. Duh. Use a 3x3 ft hunk of your 12x12 tarp to line a 5 gallon basket and store your boiled water in that basket. Some time the first week, devote a couple of hours into making the clay-refining pits on some hillside and fill the top pit with shoreline mud and water. Keep stirring this and adding more mud and water and over time, you'll drain off the clay-suspended water into the lower pit. Eventually, the water in the lower pit will clear. Drain it off and have clean, workable clay in that pit. Remove the clay, and put it on the back, lower side of your work pavilion tarp. While you're waiting on the clay, make the kiln and the charcoal that you'll need to properly fire the 8 clay pots (1.5 gallons each) and their (numbered) close fitting, gasketed lids. 1-2 of the pots will break as they dry, or as they fire, and you'll probably break 1-2 in normal use, too. You need at least 4 of them and 5 is much better, so while you're at it, make 8 of the pots. Also while you're at it, make 50+ of the 1/2" OD ceramic balls, needed as ACCURATE "ammo" for the slingbow. Stop wasting time on lost arrows, or damaging them.

you dont need or want that silly little 2 qt cookpot nor the ferrrod. The saw edged shovel is far more useful than the axe and saw put-together. If you dont believe me get the shovel, make a normal stand up shovel handle for it heat-steam bending the green sapling. drill two holes in the shovel blade for lashing and mount it on an L shaped forked sapling, for use as a pick/adze/hoe. Now SEE how much hard ground you can move with the axe, digging stick and jacket or the cookpot, as vs much you can do with the shovel, alternating handles as needed. Drill out the mounting holes in the shovel's ferrule. Use longer, larger OD bolts, 3/4" long chunks of large OD nails welded to the heads of the bolts. weld nuts to the female side of the ferrule. Then you can quickly swap handles for the shovel, without any tools. By tossing out the worthless SS file, Phillips and serrated knife blade and replacing them with a pair of real-deal Nicolson file blades (one of them 3-sided" and the blade from an Old Hickory parin knife (so you can strike sparks with it) you'll be able to sharpen the shovel, the saw teeth and the knife blade. Rig the Crunch multtool to also be taken apart and re assembled with your bare hands. Then you can hold the knife blade in the vise grip and have an easy job of boiling the jaws of the vice-grip and the knife blade, to prevent your getting food poisoning. That iS a threat if you process food with a folding knife.

the early version (first month) of your sleeping tent takes at most 3 hours to create. A later version, for the next month, takes 3 hours or so, and the final version takes another 6 hours, but 2 hours at a time, at dusk for 3 days, cause you're letting a 2-4" thick layer of wet debris freeze overnight. This is necessary about day 60 when it's too cold for rain to be much of a threat and you need to convert the producer's tarp into a debris-stuffed "sleeping bag'. At day 30, the producer's tarp was needed to protect the 6" thick layer of dry debris that you needed to add to the additional (external) pole frame of the little sleeping tent. By little, I mean "coffin-sized". By having a reflective, SMALL, SEALED, insulated shelter, you dont need a heat source inside of it down to 0F, for as long as you have bodyfat, so as to make metabolic heat. If you score enough fish, or use enough fish to bait in and arrow a bear, you'll never be so emaciated that you need the hot rocks under your raised bed trick.

you got the wrong ideas about shelter, bro. They never see much cold at all, certainly not more than a month or so below 20F and almost never below 0F. You dont want a fire in your shelter and you dont need one if you know what your'e about. You use a separate pavilion, perhaps with a fire if you have to work out in the wind and rain, stand up, etc and you can of course use a fire for THAT but you want your sleeping shelter to not need one. You can build such a shelter in one day if you know to take the reflective 12x12 tarp and the big roll of Gorilla tape. You can build the beginning version of the work pavilion in a couple of hours, and the finished version ( a month later) in a few more hours. The early version uses the 10x16 ft producer's tarp but later, you have to add that to your sleeping-tent. So you have to substitute spruce boughs for the tarp

taking the two person, cotton rope hammock lets you NOT take the snarewire, paracord, gillnet and fishing kit. That's how you get to take the salt and the rations of pemmican and Gorp. Those items are how you can work like hell the first 10 days, enabling you to catch enough fish to keep on trucking. Netting can be wrapped around stick 'box frames" and used to catch crabs, birds and rabbits. The cross wires on the Judohead blunts can become barbed treblehooks for trotlines. where it's not feasible to use netting. While you're making the ceramic cookpots and their close-fitting, gasketed lids, make 50 plus baked-clay balls for use vs birds and small game, via the slingbow.

when you know how to make a 0F capable shelter in 1 day and a work pavilion in half a day, and you dont need a fire in the sleeping-tent, you save 1 week of calories and time on the shelter, 2 weeks on the firewood. If you know to stone boil 5 gallons of water at a time, 1 hour per time, twice per week, you save another week's worth of time and calories. 30 days has often separated 4th place from the winner. if you also learn what to do with those saved 30 days you can do even better as to staying power, and also suffer a lot less. Making clay refining pits, charcoal, kiln, and ceramic cookpots gives you a MUCH better life out there and will guarantee you a lot more 'face-time' on the show. So will making a 7 piece composite, "father and son" bow out of pieces of wood no more than 2 ft long. The gorilla tape makes it very easy to fletch arrows. Showing how to make fire hardened wooden broadheads will get some face-time, So will knowing to have the Saw-edged cold steel shovel. Make and the modified Crunch multitool able to be taken apart and re-assembled with your bare hands. Make longer and various configurations of handles for the shovel and you can have a pick/axe/rake, a 2 handed axe (with stone weight) stand up shovel, vertical ice-chipper/posthole digger, Without the handle, the shovel is a SKILLET, a "big knife", trowel and prybar. The addition of 2 real-deal, nicholoson file blades and a carbon steel knife blade make the Crunch a very useful tool, letting you sharpen the shovel, it's saw teeth and your knife. Converting the small flathead into an awl/drill blade lets you make the mounting holes in the various shovel-handles.

3 of the 10 slots are reserved for women, one each for a gay/trans person, a non-white and a person with a bad disease or injury. So only 4 of the slots are available for a straight white guy. Show them that you can start fires by flre-rolling, big pump drill, fire saw, fire thong and you'll get some interest, 95% of the 10,000 applicants each year are straight white guys and almost none of them can do the above. Show them that you can make charred punk wood without a metal container and you can bust open rocks and make flint and steel fire with your multitool's replacement carbon steel knife blade and the char. If a black lesbian with MS, 3 kids and a sob story can do bow drill, they will send a plane for her.

Oh there are no classes near me like this. Thank you. I’ll be watching this a few times .

lol

Great video. Glad your still hanging in there brother

Dude that’s cool thx tou

Keep getting it man. Keep getting it.

I’m back checking out your show , man time fly’s. I’ll catch up . Glad your doing well out there and still having fun my friend

if's 50F degrees when they launch, and wont freeze for a month. The rivers freeze solid in many areas, The fish MUST migrate. So in a month, you're done fishing if you are not on a lake. In any case, you need to make a LOT of netting in the first week. Take the sale, pemmican and gorp, and mix in some diced, boiled, then fried cambium. dont eat anything the first 2 days. Then you'll have 1700 calories per day for a week of hard work. The next day, no food, will still be functional. 10 days, you'll have made the pontoon outrigger raft, and 1500 sq ft of 4" mesh netting, or 700 sq ft of 2" mesh netting. That will be feeding you. acceptably, mixing in a bit of cambium. Netting can be wrapped many times around stick box frames and used to catch rabbits, crabs, birds.

they care more about your videograpy than anything else. Dont show them anything that I've told you. If you do, they wont let you on the show, cause you'll make everyone else look like the campfire girls that they ARE

for the work pavilion, add some poles for support of the tarp. Make it a plow point configuration, Practice at home so that you'll know how to do it. aim the low end of the plow point at the prevailing winds. Dont take the tarp all the wy to the ground, cause you'll need head room, maybe room to swing the shovel and cut wood. Drive 3 ft long stakes 1 ft into the ground, Tie the bottom edges of the tarp to these stakes. Fill in the gaps under the tarp's bottom edge with brush, debris, then dirt. This will stop wind and rain from entering your work pavilion., but let you have a 7 ft high ceiling. Put a Siberian fire lay out front, if need-be as you work. If all is wet, make an alternative Swedish fire torch or 3 and use them to ignite the Siberian. yt has vids on both. of these. Neither can be extinguished by rain. both burn green, wet wood if need be and the Siberian projects its heat all in one direction, twice as far as a normal fire. It's vital to learn these fire lays.

make the tent 8 ft long, triangular in cross section 3x3 ft at the foot end, 4 ft high, 3.5 ft wide at the base at the head end. Make the bed 5 ft long, 30" wide, 10" high. drive 4 forked sticks as the corner posts and use 5 ft long, 1-1.5" poles lengthwise. Lash together the tops of two 1.5-2.0" OD poles, both 9-10 ft long, overlapping 1-2 ft of their small ends. That's your ridgepole. Tie one end of this pole into the fork of a small tree, away from big trees, for safety in windstorms. Make a small tripod, stake down its poles and guy it out to other stakes, Put the foot end of the ridgepole in this tripod and tie it in place. Doht have heavy logs above you as you sleep! dont hurt yourself trying to lift 80 lbs logs 7 ft in the air, either. You dont want your sleeping tent to be much bigger than a coffin. Make a separate work pavilion out of the 10x16 ft tarp that the producer's give everyone. do NOT leave the producer's tarp up when you're not right there watching it, or the wind will have it! Rig it with loops and toggles, so you can take it down in a minute flat, and stake-weight it down. use green, springy branches, tied into a "u" shape as 'shock-absorbers at every tie out point on every membrane that is exposed to the wind, and use the gorilla tape to reinforce such connections, or you'll soon regret it.

get some $1.50 each clear plastic painter's "drop cloths" from lowe's, wally's, home depot, menard's. Tape the 9x12' sheets together and cut them off, leaving a 12x12 to practice on, like your tarp will be. Lay out the tent and the pants on the plastic with a magic marker, Use scissors at home. On the reflective tarp, for the actual show, lay out the pieces with permanent marker. and cut out the pieces with the knife blade of your modified Crunch multitool You can have the tent up in 3 hours, the raised pole bed in 3 hours to include stuffing the tent with dry debris. Dont need the bed the first few days, Get the stone-boiling pit going. .the basket for water storage made, the 3 pairs of pants made of tape and tarp. Do the bed later. You want to do the unraveling of the cotton rope hammock at night, by firelight or with your headlamp, light on the camera. Save daylight for things that require daylight. Unraveling the rope can be done by firelight, but unraveling the strands into their 44 threads (each strand) and assembling/spinning 5 threads into string, thats daylight stuff. You can make netting by firelight, tho

fire rolling the strip of shemagh with rust accellerant is dead easy. Use the fire to dry out more wood, cut shavings and scrapings and put them into a tarp and tape bag to keep them dry, ditto the charred punkeood, or charred bits of the shemagh, If you build a little portable a frame primitive shelter to put over the ashes pit, and trench around it vs rain, there should be no need of ever again starting a fire "from scratch". The coals and charcoal, buried in the ashes, will keep the fire "alive" for 12 hours.

weave a basket, maybe 5"x5". Get 4 handfuls of approximately 1/2" OD pebbles Set up the basket near your feet in the shelter. Using your non-dominant hand, in an overhand move, toss pebbles at the basket. repeat When you rarely miss, try it sidearm, then underhand pitch, In a month or so, you'll be ambidextrous.

when you dont need a warming fire, that saves you 2 hours per day, for 50-60 days. A Siberian fire lay burns and dries out a log from the end, so there's no need to buck or split wood, You dont want a fire inside of your shelter, nor a shelter big enough to need one. Not as your sleeping shelter. You SHOULD have everything done in the first 6 weeks. Then the best thing you can do is just hole up inside of your shelter and conserve calories.

it only takes a couple of hours to set up the producer's tarp as a plow point, with poles supporting the upper corners, giving you a flat roof (not very wide) Aim the low end of the pavilion at the prevailing winds, In order to have stand up working room, it might be necessary to not take the tarp all the way to the ground. Attech the bottom of the tarp to tall stakes Use brush, debris, dirt to make the 'walls' that seal off the "gap" under the bottom of your pavilion, keeping out rain, wind, and some of the cold.. With a Siberian fire lay out in front of this plow point sheiter, wearing all of your clothing layers, with dry debris between each layer, you'll be able to sit in this work pavilion and make netting, or stand ad split wood with wedges and a baton Start 2" deep saw kerfs across the ends of the logs, using the teeth on the shovel Drive the wedges into the kerfs and if need be, into the sides of the split, moving down the log. There's normlly no need to buck or split logs, but you CAN do it without a saw or axe.

The XL size, reflective tyvek bivy is 1.5 lbs, $95 from 2GoSystems. It's many times more useful than any sleeping-bag, cause it's unaffected by its getting wet. IF a sleeping bag gets-wet, it is ruined (for the duratioon of your challenge) You can wear the bivy as clothing, use it to line your stone boiling pit, use it to cover a big carcass or to carry things. Double fold it to carry anything HEAVY. If you use the bivy, unzipped-flat as a canopy, better duct-tape the connections and use springy, U-foled, green sticks as shock absorbers so as to protect any tie out point (with ANY membrane-tarp. If you dont, you'll be sorry in short order, cause the wind will tear it.

you dont want your sleeping shelter to be much bigger than a coffin, cause you dont want to have to have a heat source inside of it (other than your body, of course) Make the bed out of 12 or so 5 ft long, 1-1.5" OD poles, laid over cross poles, which sit in forked stakes. the bed should only be 10" high, so the forked stakes wont be very long at all Depending upon the stiffness of your 5 ft long poles, you may or may not need a cross pole just above your knees (as you lay upon the bed). Make a 1 ft "long' bed-extension for your head. Then you can invert this extension and set it on the bed when you need room in which to use the chamber pot, squatting or kneeling.. Have surplus dry, loose dirt inside of your tent so you can cover the wastes. Have a latrine trench 50 ft or so from your tent, well away from your water, in a direction which you walk anyway, so as to save wasted time and calories When you MUST leave the shelter anyway, empty the chamber pot into the latrine trench, cover the wastes, add more dry dirt to the chamber-pot and set it near the door of the shelter. If it's raining, of course, put the dirt/basket inside of the sleeping-tent.

after making the triangular tent, tape on the tarp ends. Practice at home with cheap plastic painter's drop cloths, from Lowes. Mark the Alone tarp where you'll cut it, using permanent ink marker. Ditto for making the tarp and tape pants, of course. things will go much faster with practice, confidence and marked lines!

dont bother with the debris layer on the outside of the tent until it freezes at night. When you add the debris, you have to cover it with the producer's tarp. That means you'll have to cover the pole-frame of your work pavilion with pine boughs The needles fall off of the boughs in 1-2 weeks. So dont use boughs until you have to do so . Dont make your shelter so warm that you have to remove clothing. Put dry grass/mosses between each layer of clothing and LEAVE on the clothing layers while inside of your tent. Dont waste time and calories doffing and donning clothing. Once the temps STAY freezing, there's little risk of fungus growing between your toes in your pits, crotch, etc. Until it freezes, tho, wash your face and hands with BOILED-water containing hardwood ash residue. Every other day, clean your pits, hair, crotch butt, feet. If it's cold, bare only the part you will be immediately washing and immediately dry that part with dry mosses, grasses, or your shemagh.

no, man, in 3 hours, half of your 12x12 reflective tarp will have become a tent. Stuff it with dry debris, have a raised pole bed, and it'll be all you need for the first 30 days of the "alone' show. Then you can easily add insulation to the outside of the tent in a few hours, that will suffice for the next month. then a few hours more will increase its effectiveness down to 0F temps no need of a sleeping-bag or a heat source inside of your little sleeping-tent. Use the producer's tarp to make a work pavilion, IF it's needed, vs wind and rain. IF it's needed, A siberian fire lay can be set up at the open end of the plow-point work-pavilion Dont waste 1-2 weeks on a shelter, 2 weeks on firewood, a week on boiling water.

learn to make and use a big pump drill, and to bust open rocks and make fire with the sharp rock ad the spine of your replacement carbon steel knife blade, youll need charred punk wood for this, so learn to make char in a pit, and in your gloved hands, with debris to protect your gloves. Learn to fire roll strips of your 100% cotton shemagh. Use rust from your shovel as an accellerant Sand all of the paint off of your shovel (while still at home, obviousLy) and coat the exposed steel with iodine, in a week, youlll have plenty of rust! When you launch, carefully scrape all of the rust into a small tape and tarp bag. Once you have your first fire, you will have charred wood dust and ashes to use as an accellerant Youlll be able to make flint and steel fires ad youlll be keeping the fire going with coals and charcoal buried in an ashes pit. So a ferrorod is a completely wasted pick. so is the cookpot, the axe and the saw. You dont need many poles for your tent, or raised pole bed. You dont need a warming fire. The saw edged shovel can easily handle what wood processing you need to do, and it saves you one gear pick. The 2 file blades that you add to your Crunch tool can sharpen your knife, shovel ad saw teeth

dont dig the other 3 pits under your bed until they are needed. That just teached mice to avoid your trap. keep debris and dirt dry under you bed and in your shelter. If you're not USING the work pavillion tarp, lowe it to the ground and stake/weight it down, vs wind storms. when you're not using the raft, remove the pontoons and secure them vs wind and flooding. Dont be in water that's over your head with the raft and dont be out there without the life vest (on) that they give you. Dont wear more than one set of longjohns and the tyvek bivy while on the raft and consider tying the raft to some part of your body, so a current can't take it from you if you fall off. Have an anchor rope/stone on the raft., and also anchor it to a tree, boulder, etc, for the night.

they launch in mid Sept, at 50F degrees It's not going to freeze for a month. I'ts not going to fail to thaw out in the afternoons for another month. under current rules, it's never lasted 11 weeks and usually, it's 9-10 weeks. so you'll need see 0F degrees, cause you'll never see the second week in December. season 10 was gone by thanksgiving! google for a monthly temp chart of these areas and you'll see that I"m correct about the temps. They TALLK a lot of crap about sub -20F, but that doesn''t happen until late January and they never see 1 December, so it's bs. You dont need a sleeping bag's portability, cause you can't leave a 1.2 mile radius from where they drop you off. Debris offers plenty of insulation, IF you know to trap it between two layers of tarp. and IF it's dry. There's a way, in one day, to dry out all of the debris you'll ever need while on this challenge. It's done with a pile of hot rocks and 4 Siberian fire lays. The debris is lain on a 'bed" of hot stones, with two opposing Siberian fire layers projecting heat at each other, over the stones . Another pair of Siberians is heating a low "wall" of stones. nearby. Replace cool stones with hot ones ad stir the debris to help it dry. . Keep the debris (and some loose earth) dry under your work pavailion

mice are easily dealt with, if you have a brain. Dig one hole under your raised pole bed, where, you'll eventually dig the other 3 pits for the warming stone. Dig the pit to be 12" deep, 12" in OD, at the bottom, but only 6-8" across the top, Close the hole to 3" ID with crossed-sticks,debris and dirt. Bait the bottom center of the pit with boiled, fried cambium, some berries, seeds, Mice will jump in, and be trapped With a GLOVED hand, remove the mice, take them outside and thru them down onto a flat rock, Use them as bait. Remove their turds, too When the turds dry, they can become air-borne threats of Hanta virus

To help warm you in the work pavilion or in your sleeping shelter when you are too emaciated to make metabolic heat, dig some 1 cubic foot deep and wide pits, in row. Into each pit, put a head sized stone, which you're heated OUTSIDE with pair of Siberian fire lays, so you can heat both sides of all of the rocks at the same time. Snuff the flames with ashes or dry, loose dirt, and bury some coals and charocal in the ashes-pit, under the small, portable, primitive A frame. Trench around the pit vs rain or snow melt The fire will remain "aive' for 12+ hours. Use the long handle youve made for the shovel to sled each stone into the sleeping shelter Put each one in a pit, with a 2" thick layer of ashes around/over it. This reduces the heat loss of the stone, so it warms your tent by 20F degrees for 5+ hours The tent should be SEALED, just one pinki sized vent hole near the top, whenever you're awake. When you'r in danger of falling asleep, pull the stick plug out of the lower vent hole, across the shelter from the top hole

you can save 1-3 weeks other waste on shelter building. 2 weeks that they waste on firewood, a week that they waste on boiling water and 2 more weeks (at least) that they waste on bowhunting small game and hook and line fishing. Make netting and boxt traps out of netting and stick frames, to catch rabbits, birds, crabs. Build brush piles around the traps, so animals/birds feel safe from raptors and other predators. Leave the traps un-set and bait them regularly. When you see the animals using the traps, THEN set the triggers so you dont waste time or calories checking the un-set traps and a "near-miss doesn't educate the critters to the dangers of the traps. Dont set traps any place that you dont walk on a daily basis, for other reasons. small game and birds dont offer enough calories to be worth tramping all over the place, twice per day, checking a trap line. Of course, always have your projectile weapon at the ready as you check your traps, etc. Bring milk-jug plastic sheaths for your broadhead arrow tips, dummies. if they wont less you do so, make such sheaths out of bark and tape.

search youtube for vid on the alternative Swedish fire torch and the Siberian fire lay. The Siberian projects all of its heat in one direction, twice as far as a normal fire. It can sit out i the rain while producing safe heat that goes under your work pavilion's tarp and warms you, dries clothing, etc. The Swede torch is used to ignite the Siberian when all is wet. Neither fire lay can be extinguished by rain one they are burning well Both fire lays will burn green, wet wood if need-be

about day 60, the 10x16 ft tarp must be converted into a sleeping bag. Fold it in half, stuff it with about 6" of dry debris, fold it in half again and secure the edges with cordage from the un-raveled rope-hammock. Remove enough of the tents internal stuffing-debris to move this sleeping bag onto your raised pole-bed, Replace as much of the internal debris as possible. The reflective tyvek bivy of course goes into the debris-bag. By then, you wont need the pontoon outrigger raft any more, so the coveralls can again become clothing, The backpack becomes your pillow, holding shut the flap-door that is taped to the inside of your sleeping tent. Put dry grasses or mosses between each of the 8 layers of your clothing, for enhanced insulation, It will never be cold enough, while you are there, to need a heat source inside of your sleeping tent.

About day 30, you'll need to cover your tent with an external pole frame, and a 6" thick layer of dry debris, for insulation warmth as the temps drop. You can be bringing those items to the camp bit by bit ad covering them with the (lowered) plow point tent you can add the external pole frame at any time, but once you add the 6" layer of dry debris, you'll have to cover the debris with the 10x16 ft producer's tarp. Seal the bottom ends of both of your tarps (on the tent) with piled up dirt. which you dampen so it wont blow away. This swap of the prodcuer's tarp will mean that you have to cover the work pavilaon with everygreen boughs. which are best left uncut until the day you need them. The needles will all fall off of the boughs in 2 weeks or so, That means that you'll have to replace the boughs, if you still have need of the work pavailion. You shouldnt, cause everything productive should have been done by the 6 week mark

wear the 2 pairs of longjohn pants and make 3 pairs of pants out of the remainder of the 12x12 tarp and the tape. One set of pants can be used to haul raw water to your camp, Line a 7 gallon pit with the folded tyvek bivy. cover the bivy with grasses, Stone boil 5 gallons of water at a time, twice per week. Make a 6 gallon basket, line this basket with a 3x3 ft hunk of the tarp. Presto, water storage. for 3-4 days. Beats hell out of having to boil 2 qts of water at a time in a little pot, 3 x per day.

The 3 sets of coveralls and the backpack become debris-stuffed pontoons for the outrigger raft. While still at-home, water proof spray them, Stuff them with dry debris and each pontoon will float a man. Sew and tape their seams. You only need a log FRAME for this raft, so it can be built in one day. It only requires 8 small logs to make a sea-worthy craft, when you know how. it can't be overturned, sunk, swamped, a couple of 2 ft long logs get your feet up out of the water, 2 more let you lash the camera case to the raft, and you sit on that case. One hour makes a paddle handle for the shovel, Lanyard this paddle to the raft, so that you cant lose it to the waters.