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Not trying to be a smart ass, but I thought the smaller circumference of the seal tool went on the inside to stabilize the inner part of the seal as it was driven...am I wrong?

Sweet truck. Where did you get the new harness?

You did not replace the flange gasket. I assume the old one was still good?

I have one too with the original 360. Just got through fixing everything. It runs good and drives good. mine is a Sport Custom. Straight drive. Watching this video to count the splines on the axle so I can order a limited slip rear end. As it is, basically one wheel drive. So, why wouldn't you replace the 50 year old bearing while you are in there? Thanks for your video.

It was always easy to get a point ignition to fire. The trick was to make them last. Align , polish , remove distributor to clean the ground path , check engine ground. Used to use nothing but Blue Streak or Napa distributor parts and used a copper paste on all connections including under the point frame. 😎

That is a YL series Mallory distributor. Replacement points part number-- MY201XP

1962 f100 4x4, with bits of 65, & a long bed, with a door..taken out & plated,,previous.. ausie..

Mallory did make quite a number of performance aftermarket distributors for all kinds of engines including the 144-250 Ford "small" six. If memory serves correct, they even had a magneto for the six cylinder. I could be wrong, but judging from the cap spring clips and the way they are mounted on yours, I'd reckon it's a later YL-series one. The same housing was later used from 1975-up for Mallory's dreaded "unilite" series, which was offered alongside the tried-and-proven dual point distributors. And yes, gathering info on these is quite a time consuming task. The vintage catalogues have all but disappeared; old car mags from the 60's/70's are a good source, though.

Why wouldn't You replace the bearing at the same time because most seals don't leak unless there is some play in the bearing.

Nice Ranger!

Will an older Mallory Hyfire lV 697 ignition box hooked up to a dual point Mallory distributor improve the performance on a mild SBC?

Thanks for the video. Do you know if 1980 F100 is same as your 1971 as far as replacing the seal?

This video is excellent. Makes me wish I kept some of my old SUN machines. This 506 is an extremely useful machine

Hey i have a 76 cu engine with daul points i need it re done i cant get my motor started

Good video, well spoken, and hope to see more of your channel. Thanks for helping and sharing your knowledge!

Was it leaking on the inside or out ?

I like your clean looking old Sun machine. This reminds me of the Mallory distributor that I had on my 53 Ford F-100 panel delivery truck, Mallory # 25042, good for Fords with the flat V-8 from 49-53. Mallory used to be in Reno, NV and you could phone the tech for advice. They recommended that the points be set at .021" instead of the stock .015", total dwell 35 degrees. The truck really ran better with dual carbs on a Sharp manifold with headers, so everything was dual: points, carbs, pipes. Sold it two years ago for the much nicer riding 66 F-100 with the twin I suspension. It has a Mustang HO 302 with an AOD trans and tru trac 9" rear, the one that had the same leaky right rear wheel seal as yours.

Hey, this is just what I need! I have a 66 Ford F-100 with the same exact thing on the right rear seal. Mine isn't leaking as bad yet though. I watched a RUclips video about a seal replace on a Silverado and it scared me, as much more complicated. One thing that was recommended was to check that the vent is not clogged, so I will do that first. I even have the flathead valve removal tool! I used to have a 53 Ford panel truck with the flat V-8 for almost 30 years before this 66 pickup. The previous owner told me he thought that it leaked because the axle was corroded near seal, so I will see. Not sure it will be easy to find another axle if that is the case.

O man, that family friendly silence part killed me

That's cool.. iv never used a distributor machine. Kenny keep this channel up bud

Well o know know how to replace an axle seal..

Where did you get the connectors that have solder in it

Not fun to watch your back ?.no close ups ? .Hopefully these suggestions will help you

Can you please stand in front of the camera more so we can see even less?

what makes the park lights come on? is it just when the ignition is on?

That old sun tool is great

Are you sure that is correct? Wasted spark? I always was under the impression that in a traditional OEM dual point ie. Prestolite , the 2 offset points created a very small OPEN trigger duration during their open overlap (just 4-5 degrees) and that allowed the closed time to be longer, giving the coil a longer charge time. 2 distinct open events that close together seems counterproductive and eats into the charge time the coil gets when there is continuity. That wasted spark is wasted coil charge time. One set of points cannot create the short 4-5 degrees of trigger duration without a very small gap and very short gap life, so they created the dual point (not to be confused with the Mallory double life design) to get the open duration very short, increasing the charge time the coil gets for better saturation.

Mate, I'm trying to pop a pair of these on my 66 and I'm not having much fun. Trying to get power from the parking lights so when they are on the halos come on, but my wiring knowledge is pretty awful.

That guy saved me today !