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I'll dig them up , John. Give me a week or so. Off on a cruise tomorrow. gary

@@garymalm Gooday Gary, how saw your cruise, good I hope. Have you had a chance to dig out those Drawings yet. I have started on the job using a old 1000 that went probably for the reason you make the mod. I have made the base , then got side tracked with boat trailer rebuild.

@@johnsproject.4212 Hi John Will get onto it tomorrow and mail off on Sunday. My email address is garymalm at yahoo.com Contact me there and I will send a PDF

@@johnsproject.4212 Hi John. Contact me on garymalmATyahoo.com and I will send a PDF of all my drawings , I just took photos of them so not that clear. You will get the picture though.

Good morning Sam. garymalm AT yahoo. com Can you mail me there with your address and we will be in contact. What does blew itself up mean? Gary

Hi ready. Where are you? I am happy to look at your autohelm 1000 (free) , I guess it is a Raymarine TP 1000, But the postage might be high. Can you open it and look inside It could be a slipping or stripped drive gear. gary

Hi Vincea The diode is a Shottky diode that you can get on Alibaba etc. I went for a very large oversize diode ( 100v 5 amp) because I didn't know the actual load on the motor. www.temu.com/search_result.html?search_key=Diode&search_method=user&refer_page_el_sn=200010&srch_enter_source=top_search_entrance_10032&_x_sessn_id=ni0a212dck&refer_page_name=goods&refer_page_id=10032_1725276114694_diao7kj2dx&refer_page_sn=10032 gary

@@garymalm hello, thank you for the answer, I later understood the interest of the diode. I created a much simpler limit switch system. My sensors are screwed directly to the bottom of the case, and mechanically connected by rods. It works well, but I have a little problem depending on the angle read by the compass, at a certain position, my cylinder retracts completely. I am afraid that this is due to electromagnetic disturbances, due to the proximity of the PCB sensor or the compass.

@@garymalm if you give an email, i can send à picture of it.

Hi Blisshobo. Send me a mail at garymalmAT yahoo.com and I will give you my address. You can send the tillerpilot and I will have a look at it at least. gary

Hi Blisshobo. Am sending this again in case my last mail ended up in your spam. Send me a mail garymalmATyahoo.com and I will send you my address. You can send the tillerpilot and I will have a look at it at least. gary

The theory is that if I drop one of my good chisels it won't get damaged.

Good to hear from yu Justin. Looking forward to seeing the proa under sail. gary

@@garymalm I'm not a blogger and don't have any "glamour" shots. I just installed your kit into the autopilot. When I get it set up, I will email you some pics. Right now is the off season here, so the boat is stripped down and getting regeared for next season. Thanks again, everything went together so well. I don't think it took 15 minutes start to finish!

Hi sailing Samurai. I have been away for a while (a new Grandad) so haven't replied. Let me know if you are ever up this way ( Sendai. Matsushima) gary

Hi Ibrahim. The Tillerpilot is factory set to operate from the port side. If you want to change the side of operation you have to press the -1 and the + 1 buttons together for 5 seconds. It is easy. Here is a link to the Raymarine manual. The setting instructions for changing side is from page 49. www.raymarine.com/en-us/download/st1000-st2000-tiller-drive-manuals gary

@@garymalm thank you very much. I will try that

Good morning Seaspray. You can contact me on garymalm at yahoo.com Not a difficult process to send off to Canada. gary

Hi Seaspray. I sent a reply to you but it seems to have wandered off somewhere (the Twilight Zone?) It is easy to sent a unit off to Canada, If still interested please contact me garymalm AT yahoo.com Merry Christmas. Gary

Hi Geoff . Thanks for your comment and interest. You can contact me at garymalm at yahoo.com No problem sending off to Oz.

Hi Geoff I have already sent a reply to you. And just in case you missed it. Here is my email address garymalm at yahoo.com If you contact me I will fill you in on more details of the switch unit. I am pleased that some really serious sailors from various parts of the world have fitted this. All the best Gary

Raymarine is a lazy company. They essentially rebranded the Autohelm units from the early 90s and have done zero product upgrades since. It has no drive limiters, it isn't water ingress protected and still they sell it at prices they should be ashamed of.

The EV 100 has a remote ram arm an a sensor in the control unit. This is a copy of the Autohelm system one of the first tillerpilots that came out almost 50 years ago. It does not have the same problem as the cheaper ST 1000 and ST 2000 units. Another system similar to the EV 100 is the Pelagic system. It has a reputation of very high ram torque and robust construction. pelagicautopilot.com/

@@garymalm thanks for the information

Hi Coke. Basically you connect the control line to the clew of the foresail and let off just a little sheet tension. In this video you can see me let off and pull in until I think it is right. So, the control line will have 5 to 10 cm play before the sheet takes up the tension. You want the tiller to be moving in small scallops from port to starboard to keep the boat on track. This rig allows the control line to pull on the tiller an then go slack when the sheet takes up the load. In another youtube that I uploaded about experimenting till I got it right at 5:12 an at 8:13 you can see the slight difference in tension between the control line and the sheet. ruclips.net/video/DOUgO-tSCDY/видео.html Too must sheet tension and the control line can't do its job. Noe enough sheet tension and the control line will have too much play and the boat will wander and head off track. Of course every boat, sail set and track will mean a slightly different set up. Be patient and you will be very pleased when it all comes together. gary

Hi Gary, thanks for the reply. Sorry to be a bit slow getting back to you as I was out on my little twelve foot sailing dingy yesterday, a Phil Bolger Cartopper. I knew it was an old post so wasn't sure if you might still be on-line or not. This is definitely helpful. I have two boats, a small 12' sailing dingy that I use here on the local lakes where I live in Durham, North Carolina in the states and a Bayfield 25 docked in Oriental, NC at the mouth of the Neuse River. Which is the one I am trying to rig. For years I have just lightly secured my tiler with a bit of line which works not too bad for five minutes or so, and have only recently come across sheet to tiller steering on RUclips. Which is driving me nuts. Everybody does it differently and no one provides many details or tells why they use a particular method. So far, I see five different ways to rig it. To the jib, both to the clew and to the sheet, and three to the mainsail; to the boom itself, to one strand of the main sheet of a four part tackle, and to all four lines of the main sheet. And nobody says why they choose the one they use or even if they tried them all or why. Nor nothing much specific about the adjustments needed. Like what tells you that you need more bungee elastic. I seem to have read that to the main is best going into the wind and to the jib running downwind, but then into the wind seems to work well for you going into the wind. Did you try several different attachments or was it due to what rigged easily given the configuration of your boat? I tried a first arrangement to the main sheets last week, but the wind was way light and I couldn’t really seem to get it dialed in, so hopefully when I am back on the Bayfield in a couple of weeks I will have more time and wind to figure it out. So thanks again for the info. 80 year old persistent Coot here so will eventually figure it out. :) Would send pics, but don’t think I can do that here. Best, Coke Oh, my name Coke is a middle name after the Methodist Bishop sent to the Americas by John Wesley with Coke as a last name.

Hi Coke. Here is my late reply to your late reply. Yes there are lots of ways to rig sheet to tiller. Which proves there is more than one way to skin a cat. My guess is that they all work, but some work better than others on each boat. I also think that what each skipper ends up adopting is the system that he has spent the most time perfecting. RE:Did you try several different attachments or was it due to what rigged easily given the configuration of your boat? I tried the control line to the boom end once and had no luck, Then went for the line to the clew with a slightly slackened sheet and after about an hour's fiddling got it working. Each time I set it up I spent less time adjusting as I am used to the system now. RE: And nobody says why they choose the one they use or even if they tried them all or why. Nor nothing much specific about the adjustments needed. Like what tells you that you need more bungee elastic. Every boat is different (obviously) and the conditions vary each time you go out so the adjustments will therefore be different. I chose the control line to foresail clew system because I wasn't satisfied with the boom setup. The bungee tension is the easiest adjustment. I have three lengths of bungee (giving me three tensions) and a lanyard that can be tightened giving me an extra bit of adjustment. I know it sounds like too much trouble, but if you sort out the gear beforehand and dedicate a day to it I am sure that anyone (with persistence) can pull this of off. All the best gary

Thanks Gary, that’s definitely helpful.

If you stay there, Hiroyuki san, I really recommend the Kushi age restaurant SAKURAYA. Expensive but great.

Good morning Shayne, You can mail me at garymalm at yahoo. com Then I can give you details and we can exchange personal info. All the best gary

Hi sail for life. With a 3D printer you could really refine the design. One thing to keep in mind is the amount of torque there is at the end of the stroke. nI normal operation the unit is just making small movements in mid stroke. The problem arises either when using the Tiller pilot to tack or when you disengage it from the tiller and don't push the Standby button. In these cases the ram will reach the end of stroke at full power. The spring is to correct for overrun. When the unit switches off, the ram will overrun between 5 an 7 mm. so you need to have a physical buffer for that overrun distance. That is what the spring does. As you mentioned, you could make fitting adjustments to compensate for this. Let me know of your progress. All the best gary

@@garymalm I just posted a video about it including the details of the 3D files etc. I didn't get rid of the spring after all, though I tried! In the end I settled on a piece of wire and a spring from a cheap pen. Thanks for the inspiration!

Hi Dan. That is Into the Mystic. A cover by Halifax Pier. here ruclips.net/video/o3HG66WHKYg/видео.html originally a Van Morrison song. Here ruclips.net/video/PZ59spYH9mk/видео.html There are so many great versions of this song. Boat is an old gaff rigged fishing boat. Here is another Van and boat vid that I put together. ruclips.net/video/WNDpD3b8BR8/видео.html The song is Wavelength by Morrison performed by a very interesting band called Great Moments in Vinyl. www.youtube.com/@greatmomentsinvinyl209

Hi Melanie. No idea what brand my vent is. If you can open yours up and check the numbers on the motor, a search will give you a supplier and price. Keep in mind that they will all be made in China and that doesn't mean low quality for small electric motors. Gary

Hi qfabny. Firstly depth sounder. My old DS was monochrome and the numbers could be set really large. My new one has all those pretty colorful images that you never refer to and the numbers are small and cannot be adjusted. large numbers = good. A small DS is best as it doesn't take a lot of room when swung out into the companionway. And it is much cheaper. Transducer. The transducer comes with a "L" shaped mount so it can be mounted to any vertical surface. At 2:57 in the video you are looking down at the hull under the wet locker. The round part is where the old transducer was mounted in a tube. The square sanded part is where the new transducer goes. At 3:04 you can see the transducer screwed to a bulkhead. The face of the transducer s about 1/2 13mm up from the hull. At 3: 11 you can see that the transducer has been removed and cube of plumber's or electrician's putty has been pressed onto the hull. The transducer is then pressed into the putty and remounted to the bulkhead mount. As long as there are no voids in the putty it works perfectly. It can shoot through solids like the putty and fibreglass. But not wood. gary

Hi John. The short answer is , NO. You will definitely need to be awake. "Overnighter" sounds to me like coastal cruising. Any wind driven self steering (trim tab, sheet to tiller, hydo-servo system like an Aries) will only follow a course relevant to wind direction. In coastal areas it is rare to have consistent wind direction, so whatever system you have will alter your course as the wind changes. One side will be the coast with its dangers and the other will be out to sea. An electric tiller pilot will keep a course until the sails luff and flap and hopefully wake you up. However, for a load of reasons, that is too dangerous in a coastal area. So, either and extra hand aboard or short hops of up to 18 hours. This the way that Kevin does his coastal sailing. ruclips.net/video/zCGELWAwmNs/видео.html

Hi Alexandre You mention that you "destroyed the bearing inside the rod" Just to be clear in the manual on page 9 there is the 3- Lead screw 11- drive nut. Is it the drive nut that you mean? Here is the manual. www.wiremu.com/TSP_photos/Tillerpilots/ST1000Plus%20&%20ST2000Plus%20service%20manual.pdf gary

@@garymalm I removed the "lead screw (3)" form the "drive nut" and a few "bearing balls" fell off. Later I noticed it was not a major problem. I could place it back in and it went ok... Thank you for your effort!

Yep a trusty old YSE 8 in perfect condition.

Good morning Toby. The jib sheet is released just a little, so it is still basically controlling the sail. However the balance between the control line tension and the sheet tension is the trick. For example, on a starboard tack, if the boat bears to port the sheet will go a little slack and the control line will pull the tiller over. If it bears to port the opposite reaction will occur. I have another post where you can see the foresail fluttering a little as it isn't sheeted in. This system will be different for every boat and in different conditions, but the more you use and play with it the better it gets. Gary ruclips.net/video/EL-i5bebVSo/видео.html

@@garymalm Thanks Gary, that helps a lot - appreciate it. I tried it last weekend, and whilst I kept on course for a while, I always ended up luffing up into the wind. The control line never corrected my course back *away* from the wind. I tried loosening the bungee and tightening up the control line - but that didn't seem to solve it. Afterwards I thought maybe the jib sheet was too tight, and there wasn't enough movement being transmitted from the jib to the control line & tiller. As you suggest, I'll try with less tension in the jib sheet next time. I love the system... just needs some more practice!

@@tobygoessailing It took me about 6 tries. Keep at it.

Hi Eric. In a word no. Some have tried fitting a vertical lever to the wheel an connecting to that. The problem is that you only have a small amount of "pull" and many wheel systems have at least a full rotation lock to lock.

@@garymalm maybe a drum system

Many problems with your plan. Too many! 1 you can only sail a Japanese registered boat in Japan with a Japanese license. If you have a foreign registered boat and foreign license it is no trouble. here is a vid of a Spanish guy sailing a Honk Kong registered boat. ruclips.net/video/GYj6PStNz38/видео.html 2 You cannot registere a boat (especially to another country) online. It would be so easily to steal a boat or ship and register it in another country. Lots of paperwork, money and inspections involved with changing a boats international registration. 3 I would suggest looking at Thailand for buying a boat in Asia. More boats. They have registrations from all around the world. English speaking brokers, heap local repair yards. Goo luck gary

@@garymalm thank you so much for the detailed reply and recommendations! Concerning re-registering a boat - when I wrote "online" I meant contacting companies that register boats online + sending documents via post. I see a lot of Russians like myself registering their newly acquired boats this way (in Delaware (USA), the Netherlands, Poland to name a few countries where it is easy to register a boat). I was under the impression that it would not be that difficult to deregister a Japanese boat and then register it in, say, the Netherlands. I can do all the necessary paperwork and negotiations in Japanese, I am fluent in the language. My biggest concern was that when I do my exit procedures the Japanese authorities would not let me out because the boat I want to buy is 限定沿海区域 (so going further than 20 nm is prohibited). I do not know if such restrictions apply if I succeed to register the boat abroad. What are your thoughts on this? Regards, Ilia

Yep. Spins easily even on overcast days. A little noisy some days, maybe extra sunny so extra fast rotation. If it bothers me, I just clip a clothes peg in the cowl to stop the rotation. But when I am not aboard there is through flow air, so no smells.

I know this is 4 years old and you may have made some more improvements. I use a soft shackle on the windward block just before the tiller. Loop that soft shackle around the cleat on the cockpit combing. This reduces the drag from the cockpit combing and gives you more power and control off the jibsheet.

Got your mail Dave. Will get back to you later. gary

@@garymalm sweet as Gary, thanks Dave