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I used this kit: dealer.klsupply.com/suspension/k-l-fork-tube-rebuild-kit.asp Part # 15-5368. Correct for my ‘96 virago but I can’t guarantee the same parts will fit your ‘83. Maybe check that website though, K&L seems to stock rebuild kits for a variety of other bikes and model years too.

It’s custom control software that I wrote to run on an arduino, it’s pretty simple. Check my newest video on the project for the latest code version, I have it posted on GitHub open source.

That’d be pretty far out of my budget unfortunately. Maybe I’ll look into fancy side scans one day but for now this project is just scoped at rough topographical maps.

It’s not RTK, just a cheap neo-6m. Maybe I’ll experiment with higher accuracy in the future.

My first version of this boat used only differential thrust. I think the rudders are a more efficient way to make fine adjustments because it doesn’t need to constantly accelerate/decelerate the props, they just stay at a constant speed during the long straightaways. This gps is a cheap neo-6m, it doesn’t really jump around much. Precision is more important than accuracy for this.

@@Clay-Builds i agree that they are more efficient during straights but that shaft play must go 😆 but for 90 degree turns the diff thrust would be more effective. You could easily switch steering control if desired angle is larger than lets say 10 degrees either way. Also adding some type of fin keel on the hulls will help with horizontal drift.

Thank you sir. There’s a new and improved version as well

Lo más probable y más fácil probar es las bujías. Puede que sea las bobinas también.

It’s open source, feel free to use this for whatever. Check the newest video on it for improved code, there’s a GitHub link in the description.

where did you bought the Sonar Module: Blue Robotics Ping Echo Sounder?

Awesome, maybe you can bring that one back to life one day. I’d be curious to see some of the other models, the N150 is one of the most basic ones I believe.

Thanks man. Omni drive systems have definitely proven to be a viable option for a lot of commercial applications in recent years, specifically things like warehouse logistics robots. Most of those Omni systems are 3DOF which is useful for maneuvering but more mechanically and electronically complex. 4 wheeled mecanum systems typically even have 4 independent drive motors. The 2DOF drive train this N150 has is simple to control, only one drive and one steering motor. I’ll look into an intel NUC but hoping to get ROS running on an old pi I already have laying around. I don’t think I need a ton of compute power for this since the point cloud is pretty low res and slow updating.

@@Clay-Builds Yea that is fair, the only reason I am using a NUC is because I want to run everything locally and have zero wireless connections but a PI and the cloud should work great! If you get the chance you should try and remake some of the use cases in the pics you found. A bit of sport and a arm would be epic.

The soccer ones are hilarious. I might be able to do something more useful with an arm though.

Hey, I’ve been working on it a lot lately actually. Got the ultrasonic array working, and dead reckoning the position with the encoders. Also added a wifi chip to control it wirelessly with a laptop displaying telemetry on a basic gui via processing. Still running the original motor drivers, power distribution, and sonar control/multiplexing board, but I’ve essentially rebrained everything with modern microcontrollers running c++. I plan to post an update video soon. Next major step is I want to integrate ROS and play around with some SLAM algorithms. The only remaining hardware I haven’t gotten to work yet is the bumper/pressure sensors around the circumference, so I’ll need to mess around with that too. Do you have any info on how the bumper sensors work? I’ve been really enjoying bringing this robot back to life as a side-project when I have free time, it’s certainly been a learning experience.

By custom transmitter, I mean using an LC tank circuit, or a crystal oscillator to generate the radio frequency.

If it’s stupid but it works, it ain’t stupid

I’ve thought about using LiDAR to detect obstacles and the shore, not sure yet if it’ll be feasible to get good performance on a low budget. Realistically, I won’t be operating this where people are swimming.

@@Clay-Builds Is there a "safe" depth at which you can decide you're too close to shore and turn around?

@@Clay-Builds LD2410 sensors are remarkably cheap ($3 USD) and can track up to 8 people, how far away they are, if they're moving, etc.

Yes

GitHub link to code is in the description. I’ll probably upload cad soon too, might wait until I finish the rudder redesign though.

@@Clay-Builds Yeah the cad is what I was looking for :) Thank you for sharing everything you do. Keep up the great work!

@@xx_VP_xx Here's the files for the mold I used to build the hulls, I'll upload a complete assembly model once I verify my updates to the rudder linkage are working nicely: makerworld.com/en/models/592424#profileId-514076

@@Clay-Builds Amazing, thank you!

Thanks. Still plenty of improvements to make.

There’s a printed fairing to streamline the base of that flat motor mount part, probably not very obvious in the video. I don’t really have a need to glue any PLA parts together for this. My redesigned servo mount will be a monolithic PETG part.

It’s a blue robotics ping2

Boat ramps are slippery

I generally prefer not to be contacted directly

lol I’ve seen some of his projects, cool stuff

Interesting, maybe I’d switch to an rtk gps if I ever upgrade. Could be useful for very high precision imaging.

Nice to see you here, Zivko! 😉

Nope

The ESC’s I was using when this video was filmed were not bidirectional, so no way to reverse them without physically swapping wires around. I’ve also since ditched the 0-180 degree servo logic completely, it makes more sense to just use discrete PWM value in microseconds, 1000-2000 in this case.

I’m currently wrapping up a 6ft long version of this with much more power. It’s not sea worthy though, but I’ll be able to do some very long range freshwater missions. I think an ocean capable boat like this would be awesome to build, but waves/weather and long range communication would be a big challenge.

Thanks, I’m about to wrap up version 2. Early on, I experimented with using a basic fish finder style depth sounder, I think it was a Hawkeye brand for about $50 used. I took it apart and tried to tap an analog signal off the transducer lines to detect pulses, but never got it to work reliably. Maybe you could find a basic depth sounder with NMEA output that could be readable with Arduino.

@@Clay-Builds I was looking at some sensor called MaxBotix MB7052 for 100 dls getting a reading range of 50cm at 10m, but it is a lot of money to just start testing. My option now is to go for the JSN-SR04T, an ultrasonic sensor module that works just like the HC-SR04 but with a range of up to 4 meters and surely has nothing to do with NMEA but I think it is still possible to record data (minimally good) although surely the boat will have to be quite slow? I'll look into swapping it for a better sensor later. Do you have any direct contact to share with you my progress on the project?

Those sensors are all intended for use in air only. I wouldn’t assume they work underwater. I wouldn’t even bother unless it has an IP rating of 68 or 69. There are some arduino libraries that can pretty easily interface with those, but you’ll at least have to account for the speed of sound difference in water. The sensors themselves may have an enclosed volume of air around the diaphragm that could be problematic underwater, they’re not proper piezoelectric transducers. Firmware certainly won’t account for surface reflections and things like that either. Boat speed will be negligible at this scale. I think you’re better off modifying a fish finder or off the shelf depth sounder to communicate with arduino. I prefer not to be contacted directly.

That’s a pretty heavy payload, you’ll need more displacement than this thing. Could use much larger pipes for pontoons, but they start to get expensive at bigger sizes. I’m currently working on a fiberglass hull version designed for a 15kg payload. I think fiberglass hulls is a good option at a 50kg scale too, but you could also consider inflatables, or just modify a pre built kayak/canoe. I think 50kg worth of displacement would need some significantly more powerful motors to achieve any reasonable speed and control, especially in wind/current. The code I’m running here can easily handle a 4 waypoint mission, you could add in a function to drop the fish food at certain coordinates or time intervals.

@@Clay-Buildsif you provide your WhatsApp number I will forward my prototype project. Which is already working on ropeway.

Sorry, I’m not really interested in any kind of private collaboration.

The motors themselves are not sealed against water ingress. I used hot glue around the soldered joints on the back of the motor to prevent shorts between the individual phase wires. Also hot glue to fill in the drilled holes where the motors wires pass through into the electronics box. I’d use a proper potting compound if I were to redo it, but never caused a problem as it was in this video. Also notably, the pass through into the electronics box is not submerged, just keeping splashes out. Surely it would leak if below the waterline.

@@Clay-Builds Thanks for the fast and good reply! I'm doing my first underwater tests with electronics right now and I'm surprised how well hot glue seems to work all the time.