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Don't use Styrofoam - it is a source of static which can detonate the powder.

I've stored my powder in an ordinary lower cabinet in my basement for over thirty years. No muss no fuss, nothing fancy. It's still as potent as it was when I was buying IMR-7828 in one pound tins for $15!

That'd be great to mount a Lee oe even Hornadylock & Load press but C-clamps would be highly advisable

Genius

I usually use a slab of plywood hald to the bench with large 'C' clamps

I think using a tumbler like this, we are actually 'peening' the PC into the cast surface rather than generating static adhesion? I realize this is an old video but I wonder how your PC'ing has changed over the years since the Harbor freight is not available anymore? I have an old video out about this PC'ing cast but my methods have not changed. On my channel it is titled... 'FootStompin Powder Coating Cast FWC's'. We are just a couple old'Farts looking for a better way of doing stuff...

I like the box but the styrofoam needs to be removed. Ever seen a styrofoam cup in a campfire?

Fire, only problem I see is its made out of wood with Styrofoam once through wood. Styrofoam is like napalm.

Very nice! I'm doing this! Thanks a ton friend! Upvote #100 given ... wish I could give you more for this video-tip.

Great idea presented in a very understandable fashion. With the aluminum plate attached, when you change presses, what do you do with the unused plate/press combination? I can think of many ways, but, you have experience with this system where I do not. I value your opinion.

google "tee nuts 3/8" ... 25 cents ea. that is what I use. Hey, good video, I am re-setting up my 1972 bench, (it got too crowded over the last 50 years) I'll be using some of your Ideas... Thanks... Check out one of my very short video on my bench de-capping ... Thanks... ruclips.net/video/rttSUCus5_I/видео.html

This was just an excellent video. I built a new bench recently and was looking for a flush-mount system. Precisely what I was looking for!

Sir, you are very smart individual thanks for your videos

Very nice system and excellent explanations. I was just looking at ready made systems, but your video changed my mind. Thank you.

Rather than epoxy in a treaded coupling, use a treaded insert which has a course outer tread to screw into the wood and a fine inner tread for the bolt.

Doesn't Lee have a mounting plate who copied who

Polystyrene is not high heat resistant and will melt and release cyanide when burned. Use common aluminum flashing as an inside liner to add wear durability and as another layer that will resist heat.

Looks very nice. As you pointed out you door works as a blow out panel, so someone looking at this shouldn't add a lock to the door unless they add a blow out panel on the side or the back.

i went and got all the stuff, it works great!! thank you Sir.

Good effort. Thanks for posting - Now I am going to be picky. One inch of solid wood is an excellent insulator up to around 350 degrees. The glue and resins used in plywood may render it less than ideal as they may turn to a gas and burn? Just a guess. The cement board is an excellent idea. I'd add at least an inch of overlapped dry wall (1/2 inch sheet) to the outside of the wood. Drywall is mostly gyprock and would insulate the wood for sometime. Or, one could use double wall construction and fill the gap between with liquid gyprock. The gyprock does not burn - it releases water vapour to protect the contents. I'd be careful with any paint as most will burn. In Canada, metallic hinges or nails or screws are illegal for powder safes. And the Feds want wheels on the box. (Just who is going to stop in the middle of a fire to wheel out a box of highly flammable solids in a box designed to come apart causes me to wonder about the idiot who wrote the gov. specs). The box is required to have weak seams but be secure. I think I'd peg and glue the edges and bottom using rabbit joints. Then fit the lid in a way to block heat transfer but be able to blow off. Good effort and thanks again for posting for the rest of us.

What type of female device is installed in the table top so the bolts dont pull out

My first attempt using Harbor Freight black mat they come out chunky I don't know if my oven is bad I didn't leave them in long enough or what a lot of people are saying it's the powder from Harbor Freight and they didn't have any red so I got black and so far it's been a fail would appreciate any tips

Great ideas. Where did you get the nut plate from?

Looks promising. Much more manageable than using the rubber jars and you can have dedicated colors. I'll try it out tmrw. I think you mean "NDS 4 in. PVC Hub x Hub Coupling" if anyone else needs the name.

just tried your method and it works great good job and thanks

Nice job and it looks great! Plans available?

Thanks for your great ideas you should Pattend them for Sale I will buy one thanks again

What are the dimensions on the aluminum base plates?

Good ideas, but wouldn't a few heavy duty t-tracks accomplish better results? Router them so they're flush and you can still use the mounting plates with even more flexibility, while eliminating bolt holes. I use 9/16 bolts that adapt to any universal plate. Here's a related video that might give you some additional ideas... ruclips.net/video/PLBGZIJwCOE/видео.html

Great ideas. good job. I've been procrastinating building a proper storage box for my powder and yours is very much what I had in mind and more. will you build a similar box for primers? thanks.

Thanks for the idea! Just went out and bought the couplings and tupperware now.

The "wall plates" are actually referred to as "nut plates". Found them in McMaster Carr - various options but, the 3/8"-16 threaded, zinc plated ones are PN 11445T3 and are $1.85 each.

Great idea. Can you do a video on glass bedding?

For those still wondering, the press can be mounted to the plate using a flathead screw from the bottom up through a countersunk hole in the plate, or use conventional hardware with a piece of plywood between the plate and the benchtop. Both of these put the nut on the top of the plate and press mounting holes with bolt/screw head underneath. The second method is one he showed in the video and is simple. The plywood does not even NEED to be fastened to the aluminum plate, but can just be sandwiched between the plate and the benchtop as a full sized spacer around the bolt heads. Hope that helps.

how is the press fastened to the aluminum plate.?????

very solid information very well relayed

very solid information very well relayed

very solid information very well relayed thank you

very solid information very well relayed I had no problems yet aside from no one at home depot or Lowe's knowing the names of the ceiling/wall hangers. That took forever.

very solid information very well relayed I had no problems yet aside from no one at home depot or Lowe's knowing the names of the ceiling/wall hangers. That took forever.

Great video/ideas! Just one thing.... you didn't show how the first reloader was mounted to the flat aluminum plate without the fasteners ending up hitting the table top. Just so it's clear, I understand how the aluminum plate is fastened to the table top but need to know how the reloader was fastened to the aluminum plate.

Thanks !!! Great tips!!!

That is awesome!

ever herd of blind nuts

you ramble on and on but you fail to show mounting to plate I assume with flat head counter sunk bolts which is the weak link

Thank you for all the time you spent to make this video; it is appreciated. I look forward to the next video.

Very good detail instructions for a reloading, and or work bench liked and subscribed

great idea did the exact same thing when I built my reloading bench 27 years ago

Super idea. Love the versatility of your system and your tips & hints on using various hardware. Keep up the good work! Thanks for posting!