Видео

Probably the most challenging thing ive done so far with my car. Such a pain.

Great video! FYI, I have a 2004 Sienna with 206,000 miles. I changed the front plugs, the easy ones, at 140,000 miles and they still looked like new. I saw how hard it was to get to the rears and called it a day. So far, no problems. I suspect that by now the rears will be frozen and very difficult to remove, so they will be in for the life of the engine.

Little tip. You can also unplug it to see if its bad. I unplugged mine and the issue went away. So i removed all the erg B.S permanently

Excuse. My french but nxt vide leave you cash app dang you helpful

Best video on this yet! Is it worth 800.00 incl parts? Fir sure. after seeing ur video.

Hi Del, Check out Mr. Carlson’s Lab video, he designed a new 6 volt signal light flasher module for his Oldsmobile. He also explained how the 6 volt signal light circuitry functions. I think you will find very helpful.

Good demonstration, thank you for that

Hi @delsiegmund1432 Nice video! Did you use any tool to re-assemble the propeller shaft to the third member? Mine was a real pain to get off and now I am installing it back again. Cheers Wictor

Why didn't you get a endoscope for $40.00 to look in the back.

Always use a endoscope. You need a $40 endoscope to see in the back.

You have done a very slow and refined video. I like tech people who are slow. This gives everyone the ability to remember how to do this job. To me it's a very easy job. It's just a common sense job. No electronics to diagnose. its a very easy job. You did a fabulous job of teaching everyone how to do this job. You're a great teacher. I love your slow teaching method. It's what everyone needs to learn from you. teach slow and clear. Thanks!!!!!!

When raising the transmission did yu disconnect the driveshaft? Or yu just lifted

I have a 48 Roadmaster and I’m wondering where you got the nut and seal for the torque tube

Hi! My daughter is getting a misfire read on coil 3. She's on a tight budget (who isn't, right?). My son is going to do the work for her. If she opts to do 1, 3, and 5 to avoid future extensive labor, do you think that's ok? Or will that put any kind of strain on the 2, 4, & 6?

After watching your terrific video, i have an observation. It is regarding that one backside extremely difficult bolt. Since you must remove that bracket, perhaps only remove that second bolt which holds it to the engine. Perhaps leave that extremely difficult bolt attached.

Absolutely fantastic video.

part number for the rear nut and seal?

Excellent video! Thank you Sir.

VAN WON'T STAY RUNNING? Make sure you have assembled all wiring INCLUDING the wiring found on the windsheild cowling! Found that out the hard way. 😅

10:56 they recommend brake fluid because it causes rubber seals to soften and slightly swell. old transmission repair trick.

Dad had a buick convertible he left the top down during a frog floater rain he drilled some holes in the floor to let the water out afterwards no brake lights there was a flat electrical cable under carpet guess wher he drilles😢

Those torque tubes were the worst part of otherwise wonderful cars! I’ll never understand why they hung on to them for as many years. A BEAR to work on and no,matter what you do, they will always leak!

Something is wrong! That is a positive ground car!

Those are Kingpins!

They make transorized vibrators that are a direct replacement. I’ll bet if you replace that small black metal OZ4 tube and the vibrator that it’ll work!

The radio is easy to remove. The deluxe radio is called a Wonder Bar and other than the auto function it’s no better than what you have. There is a small black tube number OZ4 that would fail a lot. Check your tubes and your vibrator. At this age you likely have some bad capacitors. There places that advertise on Hemmings that can totally rebuild the entire radio. Might be worth the price they charge.

Hows the roadmaster doing. Thanks

Thanks man just enough detail without wasting time.

My van is a 98 5.7. When start it up first time of day I hit gas and it bogs and no power at all I let off wait a second get full power back. Any idea?

Mines doing the same thing

Doing this job tomorrow. Thanks for the video.

My TBI 3.1L engine stutters and loses power between 2000 and 3000 RPM. It won't rev past 3000RPM. Actually, I found a "fix": it involves doubling the amount of gasoline in the AFR map, from 2000 RPM upwards, after the first 3 psi that the MAP sensor sends. Using that configuration, the engine sounds and behaves better at that RPM, though it still stutters slightly. Going past 3000 RPM, it sounds a lot better. I'm not sure if the actual AFR is really 6 between 2000 and 5000RPM. I hope it isn't. Because that's what it takes for this engine to successfully rev past 3k. So far, I've only changed fuel filter to no avail. I also deleted the EGR and the IAC valve (the engine still starts up okay without them).

2000 silverado 4.3, mine is sluggish like its slightly out of time, but ive replacement the whole valve train, chain, oil pump, fuel pump, fuel filer, air filter, injectors, distributor, plugs, wires, coil. I ordered a new erg valve hope it finally fixes the problem.

Great video, but I have a question on 8:12 . When working on my van, I noticed that connector slightly broken and just hanging unplugged. I can see in the video that it connects to some cables that run under the glass. However, in mine, there are no wires at all to connect this connection. What is the function of those wires? This was probably worked on by a previous owner and I don't seem to notice anything malfunctioning that may require those missing wires.

Think u alot

it took me 20 minutes on my ford explorer and made the mistake of agreeing to help a family friend do it on their sienna, big mistake. It sucks when people find out your handy and have tools :(

It’s insane what you have to go through to change three frigging spark plugs. I’m really considering bringing it to a mechanic. This is ridiculous

A great video. Very well detailed. The best! The problem bracket and bolt on the left, might it be easier to unbolt the bracket next to the spark plug to remove the manifold instead? It has to be removed anyway. This video ruclips.net/video/urKkKH7tR24/видео.html does not deal with the details you covered, but a clever way to getting that problem bracket and bolt easier to work with; removal and re-installation. I don't have to replace 1-3-5 coils or plugs, but have replaced for 6 and soon will replace for 4. So I'm anticipating what may be coming. You're video gives me confidence to do it when it comes. Thanks so much.🙂

That "extraordinary difficult bolt" (min 17:10) that is in the back of the intake can be easily taken out if you remove the throttle body. Then you can reach it with your right arm.

Pretty sure its a heat exchanger on the trans, coolant on the lines you saw, and trans fluid on the other two, and they flow through a heqt exchanger in the box. Same as a modern car with trans fluid coming up to radiator and flowing through an exchanger inside it.

Thank you so much for putting this together and sharing it with the world! It helped a lot. Take care👍 BTW. I used a Dual Flexible Ratchet from Harbor Freight for the pain-in-the-ass bolts. It helped, but still super difficult to get to!.

Wow just got done changing the #5 coil in the back and your video saved me many hours. Thanks for posting this for everyone doing this job.

Do you or have ever disassembled 49 buick spindle. ?

8 years later I have this car and I'm at the last part of your video you magically changed the three in the back hahaha wow this is difficult

am having trouble removing coil 5

This will be my third time taking apart the top of the motor in order to access the back 3 plugs and coil packs on my 2008 Sienna. Believe me, I find renewed appreciation for your video each time! My tips are this: the space is so limited between the firewall, wiring harness and valve cover that you should have enough different size extensions so that you can size exactly to fit the valve cover plug-well. In the video, the rubber tubing or vacuum line over the end of the plug can provide a flexible extension to make putting the plug in easier - this should be practiced/perfected on the front 3 plugs so that it can be done with just a very few inches of clearance. The strong magnet that can retrieve the loosened plug or the socket if it comes off the extension should be tested before taking the motor all apart. Now with 160,000 miles on the van, the connectors are all dried and crunchy - be extremely careful when pushing the wiring harness aside to get at the coil packs. I made the mistake of pulling the wire out of the camshaft sensor and had to source the exact connector and then solder the wires together on the back of the motor - not fun. Another viewer gave the hint of using a wrench to get the dreaded driver’s side rear intake manifold bracket bolt off. A ratcheting wrench might be easiest to use. Still another viewer gave a tip to hacksaw the top half of the bracket so that the bolt could be inserted in the manifold and fitted to the open slot bracket upon replacement - this comment is genius and I will try it this weekend. This job is difficult but not impossible - 5 hrs is a reasonable quote but tool up exactly as suggested in quotes given that your socket+extension simply will not fit between the motor and firewall and the wiring harness will be in the way all the time. Also not that this is 2008 Sienna - if you watch a video on an earlier year this job is easier by far. 2008 I believe has a different motor and there is less clearance behind the engine.

My partner's toyota sienna 2008 check engine light, VSC, and TRAC OFF lights came on this past weekend - went to Autozone to get the CPU checked, and it was code P305 cylinder #5 misfiring. I had replaced ignition coils 2, 4, and 6 on this van before due to another engine code coming up (same series of lights though) and remember telling myself I was lucky it wasn't one of the coils in the back - was not so lucky this time! I watched your video as a guide and it made this job go so smoothly. I made sure I had that telescoping magnet and the vacuum tubing (I work as a Lab Engineer so I had plenty of that on had). I replaced all the ignition coils and spark plugs back there because as the video states, it is a real pain in the ass to get back there and there is very little room to work. There are also many different hoses that need to be disconnected so make sure you mark them as he suggests. Anyway my first time doing this repair was a success thanks to this video. Don't let the anyone else tell you different, this guy knows what he's talking about!

I will replace the coils also.

I just saw this video. I was pleasantly surprised to see the use of the rubber hose for spark plug installation. As a retired ASE mechanic, I have used this trick for years when working on Aluminum heads. Not one cross thread incident yet.

Thanks