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I’d go full synthetic if your miles are high.

​@@itbreaksifix3129Thanks! Went full synthetic, high mileage.

Same as mine 😢

@@showmethemoney6600i dont know how to explain it but i figure out that the sensors im using are not (cali emission) which is upstream 5051 and downstream 4114. Im waiting my new sensors to arrive 5049 and 4116 which are cali emission(denso brand ofc) ill keep updated but check your engines info and if it says California replace your sensors for that specific emission

Hey bud it’s on the side of intake. Might be easier to remove if you remove the intake itself. You will also need to remove the air intake duct work

I greatly appreciate the advice, I looked further into it and figured out what the issue was, I was looking for the part I was sold, and it wasn't even for my car. I was looking right at it. Stay blessed and here's to many more miles! 🍻

He bought the part from autozone part number 18074. It’s like $225, but they give a discount code ordering online. You could try parts geek or some other discounted site. But I have come to realize if you’re saving on the labor don’t go cheap on the parts

rock auto

Advance auto/auto zone/ oreillys maybe on Amazon.com

@@itbreaksifix3129 thanks just happen to me yesterday so idk wat was the issue

Yeah man, use what you have I just happened to have bought that socket years ago for a different car.

We live in Pa and his has 3. We replaced just the one sensor and his check engine light went away and hasn’t come back

@@itbreaksifix3129how do i know which sensor to replace?

Which sensor is the Bank 1 sensor 3?

I would think that would have to do with your intake. I would suggest cleaning your intake and maf sensor. Is your CEL light on? If so read the code. If not I would start cleaning. My cousins is having a similar issue low idle and shutting off when stopped. I will try to figure his out soon and another video to follow

try cleaning your throttlebody, it might help. just take off your intake hose, and cleaning it. Mine was idles bad and sometimes stalls, and it went away with cleaning throttlebody.

Yes. Easy repair order your sensor online from advance auto and they almost always have a coupon code to get 15-25% off

If you straight pipe it you’d have to get it removed from the computer via tuning. The other way is to knock out the honeycomb inside and put back on. Then use spark plug non fowlers and steel wool. You drill out the bottom of one of the non fowlers. It then goes into the side of cat where the o2 sensor goes. Then put the steel wool in it then screw in the other non Fowler. Then screw the o2 sensor into that. This trucks the computer into thinking the cat is still there. I don’t have any videos on this but there are videos to check out

CEL light was on, used a code reader and it came up. If you don’t have a code reader, auto parts stores have them they will let you use in the parking lot.

@@itbreaksifix3129, what code was it?

Job well done! Feels really good to conquer a difficult job and save money to boot. Thanks for watching and for your comment

The one in this video is the downstream. Upstream is the one closest to the motor, downstream would be the one at closest to the catalytic converter.

@@itbreaksifix3129 ok. Ty. Just what I needed

I just mean if you’re not using a torque wrench then don’t just keep wrenching on it. Just tight enough to keep it in place and stop it from leaking

That’s def a good idea. I bought it for $400 and only drove it occasionally. I only spent what I had to to keep it rolling. Sold it for $800 few months ago. That truck was bullet proof.

Caleb Gamer if you can turn a wrench then you can do it. Remove the old line take it to auto parts store so you get the same length line and size. Tighten new line in place then crack the bleeder valve and have someone pump the brakes until u see fluid. When you see fluid tighten it Nd your done. Lines are cheap too less than $20

One Love I got mine for $400 only needed two tires had it for two years now and brake lines all I’ve had to do to in. 281,000 on mine. Only thing I wish is that it was 4x4. I think at some point I’ll lower it. But for being 24 years old it only has two rust spots, clean frame and the body isn’t all banged up. Love this truck. I don’t get to drive it much tho.

@@itbreaksifix3129 There fuckin great trucks bro, wish they still made shit like the old days. All the well made fords and chevys. Evan a few of the older dodges. All the new shit is built by smart engineer's that generate revinue for there stock holders by having to take it to the dealer to get worked on. They try to engineer it so hard to work on the average motherfucker cant just fix some shit in there own driveway. Dealerships make more money off of repairs then they do off of actually selling the new vehicles on their lot.This was all done to secure the $ (stock). Why you think nothing aint worth a fuck anymore, last a few years. This thought applys to everything all the way down to the small shit. Why you think new washers and dryers dont last but 5 years tops if your lucky these days, applys to all other apliences and things you buy. All about securing there market. 30 years ago the shit you bought would last 30 years if you took care of it. Then somewhere along the lines some super intelligent marketing motherfuckers came in and engineered new shit to break so you would have to go out and buy a new one to make sure there pockets got fatter every few years. Not a conspiracy theory. That shits a fact and the truth, research it. Thats why nothing is worth a fuck that you buy new today. Its engineered to break, to keep a steady income, to the ceos and big business stock holders. Sad fuckin world we live in today😤 Aint nothing built worth a fuck like it use to be.... Those days are over and people of today are to fucking dumb to relize what shit use to be. And again thanks for the vid👍👌