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@@JENIFERDUARTEVIEIRA Sorry, I don't speak Spanish.

Thank you! I believe the overall chemistry of my cell is probably this redox reaction: Fe + 2 FeCl3 -> 3FeCl2 , Eo = 0.77V Eo = -0.44V Eocell = 1.21V. So 1.21 volts is the the theoretical voltage and it looks like my cell is getting close to that output. I guess it's possible that it could be partially acting as a super capacitor but I don't know of any way to prove that. I don't think that it is an iron/air battery because the cell is sealed , completely closed off to the atmosphere, and doesn't have an air breathing cathode which air batteries require.

@@William_Hada super fast answer after more than 4 years ;) Thanks a lot ; Well I think you're probably near the point of cracking the most abondant iron based open source chemistery. Let me just proposed some points / ideas of improvement or just verifications If it's not acting as a supercapacitor you could probably withdraw the carbon ink or at least the active carbon material (with porous reactants) and see if the voltage is more stable and non- breathing during discharge (with wet impregnate iron chloride cotton for exemple or simple graphite powder). Maybe also try some more common stainless steel cathode electrode, supposed to be oxydo resistant and cheaper (I don't know for the catalist reaction - to be tested). Nevertheless, good improvement and continuation in your experiments and life. (From a simple methods engineer)

@@mathiaspinto4197 Thanks for the suggestions. I found out that stainless steel does not work in this cell especially for the anode. Lately I have been working on a Zinc/Iodine battery cell and all my time gets taken up in that exploration. So not much time left for the Iron cell work.

Hi, sorry but I have never measured the output of the battery when dead shorted across the terminals. Yes, this battery can be charged and discharged multiple times. In my previous video at time 16:27 I show the charge/discharge curves for this battery. I ran it through 56 charge/discharge cycles and the output capacity dropped 7% from the initial value.

@@William_Hada Hi and thank you for replying back. I'm going to be trying my hand at some of the battery projects I see on RUclips. I'm still in the process of reading up on this stuff along with watching videos on the topic but I do plan on jumping into this somewhere after the New Year....

I used a DC power supply set at 1.62 volts to charge them.

@@William_Hada Can I use 1A adjustable DC power supply? Thanks..

That should be enough amps to charge batteries around the size that I built in the video. If you build batteries much larger than in the video you will need a DC supply that will put out more amperage.

Sorry, I can't make the video any more clearer than it already is. I'll try to explain it better: The action of the bow drill spins the magnet studded fly wheel over the copper coil. The spinning magnets induce an electric current in the coil which lights the bulb.

@@William_Hada My bad yeah, the bow drill, I didn't figure out how it spin, so I'm gonna watch a video about the bow drills eheh, definitely understand the magnet part though but thank you for pointing out !

Thanks for checking it out and the encouragement!

@@William_Hada Your welcome!

What a great idea!!

Amazon or eBay.

Great! Can't wait to see your video demonstration of it.

Thanks for taking an interest in this battery and watching the video. I have not done anything with zinc because the main purpose of the work was to explore and demonstrate the specific use of iron and carbon as battery materials.

I did multiple charge/discharge cycles and the graph reports are in the videos.

No, it is grafoil, that can purchased from eBay or Amazon. The anode has to be iron because it plays an important part in the chemistry of the cell which is oxidation/reduction of iron. The cathode is essentially activated carbon which you could say that it is more noble than iron, carbon is less reactive than iron.

​@@William_Hada But how to revert it during charging process ?????

@@TubaParveen-cd2ys I don't understand what you mean by " revert it " ?

With a benchtop digital DC power supply.

@@William_Hada Ok, but how do you know the correct voltage, amperage and charging time so as not to overload the cell?

@@danielcesar5251 When I first charge the cell I pay careful attention to the milliamps of current that is being drawn by the cell. So I gradually increase the charging voltage and keep the charging current at about 50 to 200 milliamps. If the cell is taking on a charge normally the current will drop gradually over time approaching zero but will not actually reach zero. Just level off at some low value maybe around 10 to 20 ma. It's just a matter of trial and error once you zero in on an optimal charging voltage. You don't want to push the charging voltage too high because it can destroy the cell.

How to fix the upper cut off recharging voltage limit in new invented cell ???????

nicepost! and thx tp video poster too

Grind together a mixture of 80% Activated Carbon and 20% conductive Carbon Black. Add 10% by weight CMC/SBR binder plus enough water to make a viscous paintable ink. Elmer's white glue ( PVA glue) can be used for a binder instead of CMC/SBR.

@@William_Hada cool cool Conductive carbon means graphite right?

@@William_Hada should I add activated charcoal or the sugar charcoal?

@@chrisroyce8252 I used a commercial product called " Ketjen Black ". You can try using finely powdered graphite instead of conductive carbon black.

@@chrisroyce8252 Any activated carbon can be used. The higher the surface activation area and the more electrically conductive it is, the better it will perform. I used activated sugar carbon in my battery cell.

Yes, in theory, I think it is possible to power an electric bike with this battery system. But scaling up would require a lot more investigation and effort. It would not be a trivial pursuit but I think it is possible and could be done.

You are correct in your calculations. Although I know that it's energy density can be improved on, it will never be close to the performance of a lithium ion battery for example. Having said that when was the last time someone built a lithium ion battery at home? Iron and carbon are much safer, abundant, and a lot cheaper than lithium. I think my battery chemistry is unique because all other Iron redox batteries were of the " Flow Battery " type requiring external electrolye pumps for recharging. Yes, the energy density numbers are not that impressive but, I thought it was amazing and surprising to me that it did have enough energy stored in itself to move itself across the floor. Thank you for watching the video and showing interest in the battery.

Zinc based batteries are excellent and have a long history but I got interested in Iron based batteries because they are less utilized and explored. I am not trying to find the best battery here but just trying to demonstrate the possible potential for iron based batteries.

@@William_Hada ok.good.luck.Bro.

I have not worked any further on the pelletizer. If you don't want to have a filament drive motor you can just feed the filament in by pushing it in by hand.

@@William_Hada Yea. Its a great solution. Thanks for sharing.

I have been thinking about it but not doing anything on solid state batteries at the present time.

Thanks for the encouraging feedback! I appreciate it and inspires me to make more videos.

I have 30 mill amp hour cells on my RUclips same size as theses. Life time of the batteries is over 200 charges.

Yes, you can use graphite. The only reason why I used graphite foil is to reduce the size and weight of the cell.

I used a bench top power supply set at 1.65 volts DC.

I already tried those electrolytes and found that they do not work for this cell. You must use a Ferric Chloride, FeCl3, solution for the electrolyte as I did in the video. I used 2M FeCl3 for the concentration. Also, keep the charging voltage between 1.4 and 1.6 volts or you will get too much hydrogen evolution and destroy the cell.

@@William_Hada FeCl3 2m with activated carbon both electrode .. Right ??

@@asifalikhan8677 No, only the (+) cathode is activated carbon. The (-) anode must be iron or carbon steel. Do not use stainless steel for the anode. The chromium in stainless steel will cause the battery to not work.

Also make 100% sure that your separator is slightly larger than your plates. A direct short will drop your voltage very quickly.

@@unicornadrian1358 Yes, thanks for the useful tip.

Looking at the discharge curve in my first video, (time: 16:23), the curve is typical for a battery, convex downward. A capacitor discharge curve is always an exponential concave curve downward. The plating of iron metal is a well known phenomenon and commercial process. An iron chloride solution can be purchased commercially for this purpose.

@@William_Hada I'm aware of the plating of metal cathodes. Imho, what you made is a capacitor for the reason the charge/recharge is not achieved through chemical processes. The charge/recharge is stored in what you made. Unless of course you can confirm iron metal was deposited on your cathode during charging.

@@William_Hada sorry after more research it would appear you've made a super capacitor not a battery!

@@William_Hada btw i've never come across a substrate that's been plated with iron!

There are chemistry equations posted at the other video showing exactly the reactions that are happening.

Ferric Chloride can be easily purchased at many places. One can buy the dry powder or solution from Amazon and eBay. The solution is used to etch the copper off printed circuit boards. I just bought 500 grams of dry powder on Amazon for $17.60.

@@William_Hada ohh thanks what are the other materials that I can use as electrolyte

@@royaltybadboy5465 I've tried lot's of other electrolyte salts and Ferric Chloride is the only one that worked well for me. At this point I know of no other salt that works as well in this particular battery cell.

@@William_Hada hmmm what abt phospheric acid or sulfuric acid can I use them they are used for batteries and super caps right?

@@William_Hada ok no prob I found ferric cloride but can u send me the vid of the active carbon ink of robert muray smith

Anything made of pure Iron or carbon steel can be used as an anode. Do not use any forms of Stainless Steel which can contain Chromium, Nickel, etc. Ive had good success with using steel wool for the anode. Just be sure that what ever you use is not Stainless Steel or iron plated with another metal.

@@William_Hada ok thank you. How would I use the periodic table to get a better idea of what to use? I know the columns are valance electrons; but am I looking for the biggest difference or is it an shell/orbital things?

@@justthinkalittle8913 The electronegativities of elements are found in the periodic table. Picking two elements with the greatest difference in electronegativity would get you the greatest battery voltage. Here are a couple of articles to read for more details: caplor.co.uk/caplor-news/elements-periodic-table-can-used-make-batteries-oh-many/ and blogs.scientificamerican.com/degrees-of-freedom/the-periodic-table-and-batteries/

More dense solutions of fecl3 (electrolyte),e.g. 3M, 4M, 5M,6M etc to be finally made in electrolytic organic solvents after first aquous solution may be tried to improve it's energy density or some more electronegative element salts may be added ??????? I think ALMIGHTY may provide some way for the needies ?????

Yes, that is about the total weight of each of the cells that I built. I use the same ZKE battery load tester that you have for initial cell testing and I am very happy with it. For repeated charge/discharge testing over many cycles, I bought a Battery Metric MK-201 module. I bought it quite a while ago and don't remember the exact price at the time but it was about the same price that they list it for now, $175. I really like this MK-201. It has proven to be very reliable, accurate, and versatile. Here is the link to purchase one: www.batterymetric.com/mk-modules/. It is a great value for what it can do at that price. You can easily pay ten times that price for one with similar capabilities.

@@William_Hada the ZKE EBC-A01, A05, and A10H all support cycle testing up to 1000 cycles per session as well and are all less than $175 with enclosures. I thought I heard you say BA500WIN?

@@kennethanderson7642 BA500WIN is the Windows software program that I use to control that tester. I wasn't aware that ZKE had load testers that ran multiple charge/discharge cycles.

Ok no worries I found it

Thanks, Much appreciated! No, sad to say I haven't had time to do any more work on it or even make my own filament any more. I still do 3D printing but just buy the filament I use. All my time now is taken up by battery and super capacitor research.

in a carbon air electrode casing, containing lead-acid like electrolyte with the electrodes

I guess you mean that you want to use iron shimstock on the Grafoil/Carbon electrode as just an additional collector plate? I think that would be OK as long as there is no contact with the electrolyte. But, because Grafoil is actually porous I don't think that is a good idea. If that iron shimstock collector sees/makes contact with the electrolyte, I think it would cause problems with the operation of the cell. The 20 minutes soak time was just an arbitrary time I used to make sure that it was saturated enough. Since the cell was sealed up and performed OK, I don't think ambient oxygen his needed for the cell chemistry, its not an air battery as far as I can tell.

@@William_Hada Would you be able to recommend a non-porous surface to replace or seal grafoil collector plate? Would the cell dry out over time?

@@carlonlamont511 To seal the outside of the Grafoil electrode from leaking electrolyte you can try painting it with conductive paint. You can easily/cheaply make your own conductive paint : rosieresearch.com/diy-conductive-paint-recipe/ When making the conductive paint use a minimum amount of glue/binder (initially try 5%to 10%). If too much binder/glue is used you will kill the conductivity of the paint. You may have to experiment to get the ideal percentage of binder. If the conductive paint is too thick/viscous for painting, you can thin it out by adding a small amount of water.

@@carlonlamont511 I have used another method to seal the back of Grafoil sheets. It makes the electrode stronger and resists tearing and cracking of the Grafoil. I place a sheet of Grafoil on top of a single sheet of laminating plastic and run it through the rollers of a hot laminating machine multiple times until the two stick together. The only problem with this composite electrode is that the plastic side of course is not conductive at all but I thought I should mention it because it may be useful in some cell constructions by making the Grafoil much stronger and tear resistant.