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@Kaye728 it helps with twitchyness and play in the throttle, but that's how the bike is in general. It's supposed to be a gut punch of torque at any RPM. I tuned my with a dynojet PV3 and with my custom exhaust had to adjust the tune and add more fueling because the exhaust I built made .ore power/torque than the maps for exhaust they had on file. A tune helps also, but the nature of the bike is it's snappy and torquey by design. It's not a slow smooth responding sport bike like a R6. I rode around in A mode all the time and could ride it smoothly with no issues.

@ I had a R6 and had. No issues but this one for some reason on b mode it wants to wheelie and has a push back kick . Like shooting a shotgun loll .

@Kaye728 is your bike tuned?

To power wheelie on mine I could power wheelie just by ripping the throttle in 1st and 2nd. 3rd i had to be on throttle, let off, then snap back on the throttle and front would come up. This was also at 4500ft elevation. Down at sea level the bike came up a lot easier.

@@joebidden4914 no it’s not just got it

@@FireBosspilot it's not that hard to undo the exhaust, but not a bad idea to flip the bolt.

I got the control board from GB moto. I did not find a wiring diagram and accidentally hooked up something wrong and it wouldn't charge anymore so needed another control board. Board was like $50

I'm not sure what you mean up and down movement?

Ok so you have the forward and back movement that gives it gas or not, but the up and down movement I mean is when the throttle grip is moving along the bar. it will move down to the bar end stop and up toward the brake lever. Does that make sense? @@joebidden4914

I got them from Dudes Diesel Performance if memory serves correctly

Google BBI injectors, they will reply immediately cool people to talk

Are you talking about for the exhaust brake? no lights no. I haven't disabled it either because I plan to use it for activating a BD exhaust brake someday.

🤣

You need to contact whoever you bought it from for warranty. That's why I made this video because they asked me to make it so they could see what was going wrong. Then they had me cut the connectors on bad pieces and they sent me all new stuff that works.

Don't get discouraged they were awesome with me for warranty and they were super helpful.

@@joebidden4914 I got some parts from Amazon and some from retrofit source but that was in 2019 I havent touched anything since then , I could give em a call but I dont know

I did straight pipe not X pipe

I'm on the stock sensor still and have no issues.

@@joebidden4914 Copy that. - I'm maxing mine out when on WOT pulls; as my iDash peaks at 37ish psi every time. Spoke with my tuner and he agreed. He said we could throw a 10 Bar MAP sensor in if I REALLY wanted/needed to see what its actually pushing on my iDash... Obviously, the cheapest route would be a 60 psi mechanical boost gauge, but I already have two iDash's. Anyway, what is the highest EBP you've seen? My peak has been 61.5 on the gauge; but minus atmospheric (~14.3), it be a little over 47 psi. Thanks for the reply!

@@BoostedVQUR my peak boost is about 47-48 PSI on my mechanical gauge. I don't pay attention to the data screen for the EZLYNK. I never have it up honestly 😂.

The secondary air system doesn't injector any air into the engine, it injects air into the exhaust to help burn off unburnt fuel as part of the emissions system. I didn't have to do anything with the pump. Also it's likely the pump was turned off with the tune. I know on my MT-09 motorcycle that it had air pump also that could be shut off through tune. You don't have to worry about it.

Yes was all done through PPEI.

The 4.0 is too small of a motor for a 1/2 ton pickup. Also after having done the swap. I would do an LS or Hemi swap, not a 5.2 or 5.9 Magnum motor. The aftermarket just isn't there for those motors. I did the 5.2 swap because I thought it would be cheaper, but overall in the Ling run I think a Hemi swap would be similar in cost but have so much more usable power.

@@joebidden4914 I know it would be a bit underpowered but I love the 4.0 and its better than the 3.9 magnum so can't be any worse. Plus could do a stroker if I was desperate.

@@joebidden4914 I have the Hemi in my commander and its about 5 inches wider at the rocker covers than the magnum. There is zero room to do the manifolds in the commander from above or below. The commanders unibody frame is about 28 inches wide in the engine bay, the same as a YJ but the engine cradle for the hemi sits in between the unibody so you lose about another 3 inches each side just under the manifolds so changing the bolts is nearly impossible. I think the TJ frame rails maybe narrower than the YJ in the engine bay. Just thought you might be able to use this info. Cheers.

@@moparmtb360 this is just my reccomendation after doing a swap, if you wanted a cheap but reliable and powerful motorswap get an LS and transmission. You can usually pick up a motor and transmission for around $1500. Usually you can find them with all the wiring harness and ecu/tcu as well. Even better would be a manual 😎. If you're going to do a motor swap, do it right the first time. If you cheap out or try to take shortcuts something isn't going to work right, and it will either stall the whole project, or be an annoyance especially after all that work and minimal gain in power. I should have used better injectors thats where I messed up and I didnt go woth Flyin Ryan. I had some ebay specials in there. The tuner I wasn't impressed with and for tuning anything over stock on the 5.2 or 5.9 Magnum you're pretty much SOL. Only good tuner is Flyin Ryan. I don't even know if he does magnums anymore. The Hemi has pretty much taken over.

@@joebidden4914 No chance of getting an LS for $1500 in England. Finding 4.0 is easy but I already have 2 4.0 engines spare and my YJ has a 4.0. You could say I'm a 4.0 aficionado.

Yea that was super annoying. The arms are worth it, but I wish they would have included them. Make sure you get straights and 90's to make sure you can reach to lube everything.

Thanks man!

I honestly can't remember it's been a long time since I had this rig. Either a pull out on the headlight switch or there was a switch near the headlight switch. Sorry I hope you figure it out. If you're hitting a button and nothing is happening maybe the bulbs are out or blown fuse?

Yes tunes are absolutely essential for any forced induction vehicle. If you change the characteristics of the airflow at all on a MAF system bigger intake and exhaust means the engine will pump more air which means the air/fuel ratio will be off, in some cars like Subarus it will quickly cause destruction of the engine. I had the IE stage 1 tune and transmission tune. They factor in their tunes intake and exhaust, but won't hurt anything running slightly richer with stock setups. The goal isn't to make the most power on a dyno. It's about usable power and making all the parts work together to create a true performance machine.

Even with heat soak I could run a 3.7 second 0-60. Heat soak really isn't bad in this car so long as you do things right. Nobody made a bigger supercharger for it that I can remember at least at the time so I moved back to Evos and STIs.

@@joebidden4914 Aye there are intercooler upgrades, not sure when they came out. I mind seeing a recent post where a member was noticing power losses after only a few laps with his modified S4. That's a little worrying, but then I don't know how much power he is running. I suspect a lot.

@@gsscotland I am unsure of off the shelf intercooler mods, but you could definitely improve things by isolating the intercooler circuit from the engine coolant flow. You'd have to figure out how much fluid you'll need in that circuit to remove the BTU's. I know there's a calculation for it but I don't know what it is. You'll also need a 12v water pump to circulate the fluid in the circuit unless there's already a pump in it. I can't remember. There are other things you can run in that loop to make it more efficient if you're looking to track the car you distilled water and water wetter additive to get the most efficient heat transfer. You'll have to make sure your system is sized properly to keep from boiling over, and being able to remove the BTUs of heat from the supercharged air. There's a lot of money you can dump into the S4 to make it faster like custom turbo setup for a compound charged setup. That would be sick. I think the newer S4's they moved to a turbo anyways because of the limits of that blower. It makes great power, but you won't be winning any HP contests. Honestly for the power level this car has and it's drivability stage 1 is all I needed to have fun in the car. It needs a lot of suspension work to be a serious track car. If you want to go that route the car will definitely handle very well. It's still gonna be a heavier sport luxury car, but theres nothing wrong with that.

@@joebidden4914 I think a stage 2 can get you pretty close to 500bhp, which isn't a million miles away from a 5.0 V8 supercharged Jaguar, so pretty amazing for a 3 litre. But yes, the suspension, brakes, diff (unless you have the sports diff) is all going to be struggling with such power. The torque could end up being an issue for the DSG as well if you go mental lol. I agree that pure power is far from the goal, especially in the UK where there's limited options to use huge power. I prefer performance (acceleration, handling etc) up to about 80mph, anything above that isn't really enjoyable as you know it'll just end up with a ban. My mate has a Yaris GR and it was epic fun taking on each other. On the A-roads I had the edge, but on the B-roads that GR is very nimble, especially with his Circuit Pack giving him front and rear LSD. Out of interest, what are you driving now?

The ones I have now are working well. I still have to finish my lights and car 😂😂😂

@@joebidden4914 So how did you fix the problem? You still running the Colormorph demon eyes with the morimoto controller? I thought they weren't compatible with each other??

@@edgarmira6752 they sent me new ones under warranty. Thats why I had to make the video. This was through retrofit source.

I honestly don't know. You'll have to contact raceme

Still runs strong. My G56 transmission on the other hand I've found the weak shifter and weak 4th gear lol. Upgrading soon to upgraded case and AD gear set.

@@joebidden4914 Glad to hear the good news on the kit. Apologies on the tranny... Pay to play as they say. Lord knows I'm familiar with that and I'm sure you are well versed as well.. I have the 68RFE; so... Haha! Hate to be a pain, but did you notice all the benefits they claim? (Lower EGT's, drive pressure, and slight MPG increase.) Lastly, do you regret losing the exhaust break? - I rarely use mine. Honestly, more so to keep the VGT from locking up. Thanks again!

@@BoostedVQUR drive pressure was the big one for me. It did lower EGTs yes, not sure about the fuel mileage, but it is reliable and spools the same every time consistently. With the VGT I had a lot of issues sometimes the turbo would light up super quick and responsive, others was super sluggish. I kept my exhaust brake on all the time as well. I do miss the exhaust brake but if I'm ever able to I'm going to put the BD power brake on it as well. The 68RFE if you have a built one is supposed to be really good.

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Yes 5" and at this point I believe was straight piped. I've since put on a 5" resonator/muffler from MBRP and it's made it perfect.

@@joebidden4914 yeah that makes sense, thanks. Sounds amazing!

No codes, but if you want exhaust brake the BD kit works with the stock switch and wiring.

What do you have for a tuner right now?

No sorry, I sold this a long time ago. I traded it in for my Ram.

I wanna say euro toys but I can't remember. It's been a long time ago

No surging at all. It's perfect. BD says this is the largest turbo for towing they reccomend. It was a little large until I put injectors in. Just turbo lag, no surging.

@@joebidden4914 I have the diesel power source turbonator exhaust housing on my 66/74. I can adjust it to spool earlier or later. I was towing last weekend. 1850 rpm. 27-28psi. And it was surging. I turned it down. About 16 psi. But it drones really loud now at lower boost. As soon as I hit 18 or more psi at that rpm it starts to surge. I think i might just try to buy a BW 64.5/73 super core and bolt my exhaust housing to it

@DanielPats1228 so you're getting compressor chop? Hit up my buddy Chris Robbins at TurbosRUs. He will be able to help you much better than I can.

@@joebidden4914 do you know if you have the 68 or 73 mm turbine?

@DanielPats1228 I don't get any surging or anything while towing. My EGTs stay low unless I'm hitting hard and it will climb up if I don't take my foot out of it some but I'm pushing it decently to get those higher EGTs

Let's fo Brandon!

It was supposed to be wife's daily and my toy. It was too much car and she wasn't comfortable driving it yet

I had to take the rubber off the tires. It was old bike tire I had used for traction. It needs a throttle that is like a vehicle, more you push the more throttle it gives.

My son has been having a blast on it all day. Started off just where the throttle starts to sliding it at the end of the day lol. Videos to come.

Just the stock air filter and stock exhaust file. It's much better than the factory tune

@@joebidden4914 I put a high flo air filter and EHS Racing airbox lid on it , EHS Racing tuner, and a HMF exhaust. Seems to pull a good bit more especially mid to top end.

@rzl07375 yes it makes a huge difference. I have high flow sir filter and will have MBRP exhaust on it hopefully soon

Still going strong and has reliably driven across country and taken the abuse I throw at it.

No, just the camera was from the facing so everything is flipped

Thanks man I love the way it sounds. Especially with the super charger whine

I don't think they had a v6. Just a naturally aspirated and a supercharged V8. This is the supercharged V8

It was never uncomfortable to drive and no drone at any condition. It honestly made it harder to stay out of the throttle haha. It sounds super good. I think it shoulda sounded this way from the factory since it's the supercharged sport version.

I don't remember which pulley I used to be honest. It should work on your range rover if you have the same engine. For the pulley I used you have to machine down the snout of the housing for the smaller 2.5lb pulley to fit. It makes a world of difference though and it is how they should have come from the factory.

@@joebidden4914 thank you very much for your answer! don’t you know how much horsepower your range rover got after this pulley?also does it need some mods to ecu?

@@subieonelove2802 it doesn't need ecu reflash. They have them available but it's like $1,000 and only gains another 7hp if memory serves correctly. I don't remember how much power the pulley gain is but it's significant, also the throttle response is much more responsive. It makes it perfectly balanced for power, acceleration, throttle response and just how much fun it is to drive. I took out the number 7 or 8 resonator and it sounds perfect.

@@joebidden4914 could it be the same pulley as for the Jaguar models ( XJR XKR)? I know the same engine( wich is a Jaguar) is used in the Jaguar XK R wich makes it 420hp compare to RR’s 396hp?

@@robertdrum6857 I'm honestly not sure, to me it wouldn't make sense to make 2 different snout castings for the supercharger different diameter pulleys, but that doesn't mean they didn't. My guess is that it's got different cams and/or different heads and exhaust.

The one that goes down by the header? It's been a long time since I've had this car but I remember something down there with a flapper and the flapper was designed to keep air from flowing back into the air box? Please refresh my memory. But I don't think I did anything to it.

It should it's the same 3.0T and the same body style. It's a B8. Mine was B8.5 but they still use the same parts for motor and trans and stuff.

@@joebidden4914 i just ordered a cts intake so we will see what happens

@@KraveSanity nice! As long as it's a hard tube intake and is open that supercharger whine is hard to stay out of lol

Hahaha. If he does it'd be the only good thing about him 😂

Nope

It's hard to stay off the skinny pedal isn't it 😁

@@joebidden4914 truee and we have a gasoline crisis in oir country ://

Yea I've since replaced their air water separator with I think a fleet guard. I'll have to look tomorrow but it's much better quality. The 2 micron absolute is the way everyone should be running their trucks even if its just a remote filter with stock fuel pump setup.

@@joebidden4914 agreed idk why Cummins ever put a 7 micron filter on the C/R well the 5.9 atleast can't speak for the 6.7 C/R...I got the 5.9 but here shortly i plan on picking up as set of those BBI injectors as well but probably gonna take my chances with the remans from Mm3tuning with 2-4 tunes with full trans tune to go with them just can't decide if I should do stage 1 or 2 I know until I get a heavily modded or dual cp3 I'm gonna have to defuel stage 2 but I'm ok with that which is why im debating the 2 I know stage 2 probably is a bit much but I'd rather defuel now and turn them up later when I'm able to feed them properly. rather than stage 1 and later be maxed out with no where to go but new injectors again 🤔 and whats got me think not to do stage 2 is I know the stage2 will create a bigger snowball of part that will probably have to be upgraded... Like push tubes and springs to hold the air they will need which ur video also made me start contemplating if I should do them at the same time instead of when I was originally planning to......If only parts where cheaper or we had million's of dollars lol clean looking truck by the way what all do u have done to it besides the injectors and airdog?

@@ShroomDaddy707 if you tow don't go crazy lol. It's also 10 micron filters but it was a Dodge thing. They did it in my opinion to make massive income on service by destroying the trucks just out of warranty. Definitely build your transmission lol. Depending on what you want to do with your truck just keep in mind it's a big 7-8k lb vehicle and if it goes fast you gotta be able to slow it down too. I have done bunch stuff, upgraded fixed vane turbo, head studs, BBI stage .75 injectors, bigger intercooler, AFE stage 2 intake with air scoop and AFE intake elbow, PPEI EZLynk tune with 5 position switch, southbend dual disc clutch, 5" exhaust and added resonator because it was too loud, 3" lift and Apoc adjustable control arms, wheels and tires, upgraded shifter because my oem shifter snapped on me while driving. It's been a great truck and I love it. It's my 4th Cummins. I've had 2x 3rd Gens (one manual one auto) 1x 2nd gen (manual) and now this one which is manual. I know I've done more to it but I can't think of everything off the tip of my head lol.