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Were there any other part numbers in the box that what you had shown on the back panel? On cannondale experts, a lot of items are listed with a part number starting in "kp."

Any chance you know how to remove stuck orange seal stains from a Matte carbon frame?

Good Video. How tall are you ? What size slate ?

Came to this video after 2 tubeless failures in a week with.. you guessed it, muc-off sealant.

Thanks for sharing, Justin. an amazing message for an amazing person. Congrats to Bob. One of the most selfless and hardworking people I have ever known.

Nice job on the conversion. Do you know what the stock fork axle-to-crown measurement is? Thanks

Wrong press = you damaged your bearings. You had to push the outer and inner rings at the same time to prevent damage to the inner surface. If you only push from the inner ring, the power you put on is transferred to the outer through the balls. This creates too much pressure on the contact of balls and races and causes eventually damaged points inside the race. Your bearing will then not run on a smooth surface and take more damage in every turn. This will lower your bearings lifetime and cost you watts.

Does it work? I got few spots on my new bodywarmer and it is expensive present from mrs 🤬

Isn’t that “bolt” the self-extracting locking nut?

JUNK !!!! you need to press the outer race of the bearing !! You have DESTROYED that bearing

Nice fix. I have a Cannondale XS800 with an old headshock that will go the same way eventually. So i may need to do the same thing. Cheerz

I'm afraid you're wrong. The creaking is caused by the bb axle fretting inside the inner race, not by the bearings moving in the frame. Look for blueing of the grease on the axle as evidence as well as signs of wear where the axle sits inside the races. Simply refit the axle with a smear of bearing fit compound to cure the creak.

Put the crank spindle in the freezer for about an hour … it will contract and make it slide right on in. This will ensure the bearings are not disturbed while the loctite is curing

The Shimano V2 Octalink BB of the late 90's & 2000's were superior quality and simple to install, why have BB's become so much more complex since.

Hello, Thanks for the great informative video. Do you know if this 641 retaining compound product can be stored for years if not used after opening ?

You don't wanna crank on this???

Oh yeah 😎. OR? Rent a "Blind Bearing Puller", from AutoZone. Used to remove the pilot Bearings or pilot Bushings from the Flywheel that transmission shaft Rests/rotates on allowing Flywheel and transmission to turn together. Insert one hook 🪝and hook the inside of Bearing/Bushing 🪝with the Bearing Puller and Jerk the slide Hammer 🔨 away from Bearing and pop that puppy 🐶 right out.😄

Your pressing on the inner race wrong too.

The crank shaft fits way too lose. Find bearings that will press fit both the shell and shaft!!!! Hey!!! You didnt solve the problem...!

That tool look to be pushing the inner race 😬

Thanks for being so detailed. So, what actually causes the creaking? Mine is so loud, it sounds like my bearings are being destroyed. Did you replace the bearing cases with new ones or did you just wipe things off and degrease things?

I have a new Supersix Evo, BB creak started 1 week after I got caught in the rain, isolated to BB by removing chain and notice as start to move crank, watched this video, decided to remove seat post and just poured a little engine oil down inside to allow to drip around the BB, angling the bike left then right whilst turning the cranks to allow penetrate and drip out slowly underneath onto a rag. Creak has stopped. Never tried or thought of doing this before but creak only came after the rain and this has done the job - was going to WD40 it inside but decided to try engine oil.

hi, i've tried with the green locktite for cylindric parts, put a little on the outer side of the bearing but also on the inner side of the bearing, instead of putting grease, i must say its a bit better but still creaking when i push verry hard. think i have to look furder for a better solution, thanks for the video!

Nooooooooooo. You pressed in that bearing by pushing on the INNER race. That is definitely not how you do it. Gotta push on the outer race

Nice video. Lots of good comments (must use correct press adaptors that rest on outer race) and lots of inappropriate comments (since is BB30 the shell is aluminium, so the comments about PF30 / carbon shell, don’t apply here). Point is, original BB30 is already a machined metal tube. The later PF30 versions are the ones that have the most problems. That said, maintain all press fit BBs at least annually and keep them clean or suffer the creak

I would never press a bearing in by the inner ring. I would think you're going to damage the new bearing. Sure bang out the old bearing from the inner ring...but I would only press the new bearing in from the outer ring. If I saw a shop do what you just did...I would walk out of there and never go back.

The best solution is to not buy Cannondale, their manufacturing tolerances are crap. Go for look, Giant, Time or BMC

Can I use Loctite 648 instead of Loctite 641?

The old systems are better.

0:32 05:16 01:19

I was terrified when you smacked the bearing with a metal sledge lol. I would be afraid to do that.

I can’t believe someone hasn’t asked you for a new crank after showing that driveside crank removal method.

can hollowtech install to that?

What kind of lubricant did you use on the spindle?

Hambini says no

Square taper JIS 4 lyfe! You are doing it wrong with the extractor. The hex goes finger tight then back it out a little. The handle does the pulling.

Sir, is there not a physical metal or plastic bracket that the bearings fit into? Or are the bearings set directly into the frame?

you do it wrong

I’m replacing bb bearings on my 2012 Supersix Evo hi mod. It has a sram PF30 as stock when i got tge bike brand new. So i’m gonna replace it and use the same brand PF30. In this case carbon to plastic shell cup. What loctite should i use for this?

After checking my bike thoroughly I still had a creak, eventually traced it to the bolts for the cleats on my shoes. I put on some grease and tightened the bolts, creak gone‼️👍

I worked at FSA for two and a half years. While there myself and a coworker experimented with different compounds to see what lasted the longest in preventing the creaking from coming back. We found that Locktite 480 worked excellent and lasted longer. It has a holding capacity almost identical to 242 but has components in it that make it feel like rubber when dry and it actually expands. So it does not break free as soon as the 242. Also when used with a press fit plastic cup in a carbon frame it expands and forms into a rubbery material to fill voids between the bearing case and frame as carbon layups are not perfect. It does not hold so great as to be a detriment when trying to remove a worn out bearing.

Why not add locktite to the spindle instead of grease, the inner race should be "slipping" from the axle. Nice video

The Bottom Bracket Guy has some good information, he seems to think cannondale bottom brackets (in carbon bikes) are crap ruclips.net/video/zryhuHkbb-o/видео.html

Thanks for the video. Whats an accelerant? I have supersix evo. Carbon.

My bb30 was a POS!! 😐 Tried everything. BBinfinite didnt fit because of the di2 cables. I sold my fancy SISL2 cranks and picked up a 9100 dura ace and converted it. I still have flashback of the creak on my old sprints

You forgot the 2 shims that you took out. Im sticking to my Derosa’s old technology that still works,,, im not going to win the Tour de france anyway...

Go to hambini and order his bottom bracket. He can barely keep them in stock because they work so well. He is an aerospace engineer and knows what the hell he is talking about when it comes to bearings. Your welcome

engi fails!

Pressfit is such bullshit........you don’t need specialised tools, lock tight, techniques with breaded bb. Just step back with this video, wtf, hammers, pressfit tool, so much talk (24hrs to set). With threaded you grease and screw it on or off.

Excellent video Sir Double Arrow, made all the necessary relevant points. Doing the best you can with a compromised situation. Robert Trageser below says it best, his comment is spot on. We the consumers need to stop buying the manufactures crap no matter how tempting. And twosence fromcleveland you're gonna have to keep shopping for the frame that meets your needs and has a threaded BB to boot, or perpetuate this irresponsible manufacturing mayhem. You can spend 5 G's on a frame and it's very foundation is compromised from the beginning, ludicrous! It's not the spindle interface that is the issue, (Joey Mesa). If the interface between the frame and BB bearings were correct, (proper materials used, concentricity, and bearing clearances) the spindle interface becomes a non-issue. It's rocket science!