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That's rough. It's a pretty simple fix though and a LOT cheaper than replacing the hydrant!

@@thehydrantguy well problem is unseating the seat ring once those break, but we did jeryrig a fix, after grinding down a Mueller end for their breakdown tool, we now have the perfect unseater for clows, once could be a fluck, twice we could be lucky but three times, think we found a winner, and it's adjustable since we have everything from 3' to our deepest is a 7'6" hydrant

@tarak4012 absolutely! thefirehydrantguy@gmail.com

That’s about right, but it recoups its price quick if it saves you from having to replace just 4 or 5 hydrants

That's a really good point and so true. I can't believe we didn't do it on the video!

@sueselembo8792 that is absolutely correct and we should have done that on the video

Removal tools are much much cheaper than replacing a hydrant. Always

The hydraulic stuff can get expensive but if it’s saves replacing just 3 or 4 hydrants it pays for itself

Actually at minute 9:40 I mentioned that we were checking that the water level in the hydrants was falling quickly, which indicates a good draining hydrant. I started removing the caps at 8:30 and reinstalled them starting at 10:01, so about a minute and a half of allowing the water to drain, which in this case was plenty. Lastly, I am in the south, but almost all the information posted here is relevant regardless of where you are servicing hydrants.

Are you talking about the hose or pumper nozzle threads or the oil fill plug? Either way, I don't currently have a video, but I can easily make one

@@thehydrantguy no I'm talking about the grease nipple fitting on top. We have several fire hydrants that have broken or rotted away grease nipples I was hoping that you would have a video of tapping and or replacing them effectively and easily. Because the previous guy who retired felt like not showing us on how to do any maintenance.

@celtic1842 can you please check on the make of the hydrants? M&H or Kennedy most likely, but I have a few bonnet rebuilds to do and I could include that in a video

@@thehydrantguy we have Kennedy's which all those ones have nipples. Some really old fire hydrants with Woodrow on it. And all the oil ones are Mueller. I will keep my eyes open for a new video thanks 👍

The manufacturers made so many different style nozzles over the past 100 years you would need a small library to be able to see the different nozzles and how to repair them

Make sure that your caps are snug, then open the hydrant until you hear the water start to fill or pressurize the hydrant, usually around 4-5 turns. Leave it open for 10-20 seconds. Some hydrants will require a few more turns and some less depending on age of the hydrant and wear.

Thanks! I have a few more that I'll be posting soon on M&H hydrants and a Mueller Columbian

You might need that tool, but it's most likely that the traffic coupling is broken. Please text me the following information and I can help. Where is the hydrant located (city, state) and is there a shutoff valve? 903-826-9694

Lol, well our city have have straight up rejected contractors for wanting to install clows into new subdivisions, hell we've had clows installed less than two years ago where the upper plate breaks, we have found East Jordan fire hydrants are pretty good; and simple, M&H is another decent one we use but we've been trying to phase out clow

On modern AVK fire hydrants, there's obviously more threads than that. Also, all AVK fire hydrants have a travel stop nut to prevent the stem from dropping off. This video is specific to AVK hydrants only.

Been needing a tool like that too, keep having to replace the clowswe try to fix

That's the only way to roll!

You're welcome!

If you mean the big "socket set", it's a Stanley Hydrant Saver. Your local waterworks supply house should be able to order it or you can find them online for around $1600

$175 plus shipping. Email me your address at thefirehydrantguy@gmail.com

Thanks! Feel free to reach out to me if you come across something we haven't shown yet! 903-826-9694

AWWA M-17 instructs all who want to thoroughly test fire hydrant to properly by doing a static shell test on the fire hydrant which includes flushing and recording the static pressure of that hydrant. Keeping record of the static pressure at regular inspections lets you know if there is possibly a leak in the area. On Mueller hydrants if you want to know the level of the oil in it you just need to remove the top of the hydrant. You can check for the proper level of oil. Sometimes you will find water in the bonnet indicating a bad o ring or damaged brass ferrule on the stem which to be repaired. Easy to do. I did it for over 30 years. Works great. This guy only knows what he was taught by sales personnel, whom I know teach this method

The parts were less than $100 I usually charge around $300 or so

You probably have a damaged upper stem. The brass sleeve is stuck to the lower orings in the bonnet. After removing the hold down nut and operating nut, pour some food grade oil into the bonnet. Then tap the bonnet upwards with a small sledgehammer until it comes free from the nozzle section. Use to flat pry bars on either side of the bonnet to push the bonnet up. You can try twisting the bonnet while doing this to get it loose. If that doesn't work, open the pumper nozzle cap and use a reciprocating saw to cut the stem, then pull the bonnet off and you can beat the stem out of the bonnet driving it from the bottom with a small sledgehammer. You'll have to replace the upper stem as well. Please feel free to call me with any questions. 903-826-9694

It is for some. Muellers, Clow, M&H, Americans and quite a few others are pretty easy, but Woods, Coreys, Ludlows, and some others are very hard or impossible. Try Hydraflo in Beaumont, Texas or Hydrant Repair Parts in Tulsa, OK

@@thehydrantguy Thank you for responding and thanks for the information.

Mueller doesn't, but reach out to Hydraflo at 1-800-327-7853