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I tried this and that to no avail. My return window (through RCBS) just elapsed. I was going to send it back but I had a devastating event in May (I burned my metal working shop) and just didn't care about much else for the 6 months up to now. Anyway, I'm stuck with this POS now. At least I can maybe get it to throw some fast charges below target and trickle them in...but how's that better than a powder drop? Proof that brands aren't reliable, everybody lays an egg from time to time.

@grassroots9304 shit i am sorry to hear about your metal shop. That is really rough. Yeah I might have to do the same, dial in a few grains lower then trickle in the rest

Yes, and I have done so in the past. However, after digging some up to remove it, I ripped the plastic tube apart instead of the joint so I felt that one clamp was sufficient. However, there is nothing wrong with using double clamps. Clamps are cheap, digging up a fitting which is leaking is a huge PITA...

I don't think you have enough reason to comment right now. Thanks for boosting my YT metrics with a comment, though.

You. Your dog said you needed help. Thanks for boosting my YT metrics with a comment and a chance to interact.

This has been one of my most helpful videos and, therefore, one of my favorites. Unfortunately, for some reason, despite me not being monetized, YT likes to show ads before some of my videos and I apologize if that's the case on this video. I only made it to help, not to make money.

Hmm, I see the M500 is a current offering, and it is available from Amazon. I don't recall seeing that model before but I make mistakes and am sometimes wrong (don't tell my wife, she'll be heartbroken). Looking at the M500, it is a 2 poise scale whereas the 505 is a 3 poise scale. I had loooked several years ago for a spare. If I'd known they'd d/c the 505...stopped my reply and did some looking. I'm an idiot or something changed. I can find the Ohaus 505 on Amazon for around $75. Ohaus made the RCBS 505 per the markings directly on the product I have. I love my 505 and I suddenly have a project idea: fill the scale with epoxy and lead shot like the Hornady trickler I did a video on (which works great to this day) and maybe upgrade the dampening magnets. I'm in the middle of a move (again)...Maybe when I get this wretched moving over with. Thank you for your comment, it precipitated a learning experience for me. Oh, and 2+ weeks after filming this about the Chargemaster Supreme it still throws inconsistently. Sometimes 9/10 dead on, sometimes 3-4/10. I have given it a few more chances to be fair but the time re-dispensing charges outweigh the time it takes to scoop and trickle onto the 505. I've not gotten around to sending it back...but it's going back.

Plastic is prone to having static electric charge for sure. Static Guard spray is your friend with these plastic powder handlers, or suck it up until the plastic gets a powder residue gray coating. I never thought about treating the outside of the unit. WTH...I don't have time right now or I'd stop typing, go do it, and come back an hour or so later and continue this. Before I send it back, I will try this. I can tell you that the clear cover for the pan area needs to be off the unit. It's a breeze guard but it will change the weight displayed as it's placed on and removed from the unit. I leave it off and just make sure the HVAC and any other air movement equipment is off or otherwise not running. Thank you for the thought here.

And so fast!

@@bp814 Carnal rule #1: when reloading do not get in a hurry. Anyway, as the tortes I can easily out run the rabbit that keeps over throwing his charges. Any who, I only make batches of 20 to 50 rounds at a time, and I do not get in a hurry for any reason. After all handloading is half the fun. Why cut it short?

@@thetexasrat because I have the Franklin Arsenal Intellidropper that works really well and is reliable for me. I do a little bit bigger batches and I love the precision that it gives me as it doesn’t have those issues like the one this guy has in the video. It’s whatever floats your boat and I love that it’s a precision gadget that gets the charge ready for me to pour while I’m running it through a four stage press. I love gadgets!

@@bp814 My problem with automated gadgets is that I do not want them robbing me of the pleasure of doing it myself. Now tell me I have to produce 2000 rounds a day and I will change my mind about such things. When I was in high school I did all my mechanic work with wrenches. The auto mechanic teacher told me that a ratchet would get the job done faster, and that they even had air wrenches too. I told him no thanks as it would reduce the ability to feel the threads turning, and that kept me from breaking bolts off or stripping threads that the people that used the ratchets and air wrenches were doing on a regular basis. Then I went to work in a shop and had to adapt to be able to get the vehicles in and out. I ended up losing my passion for mechanic-ing and went into housing construction. I used a hammer for years until I got with one crew that said I had to use air nail guns, and once again I lost interest in such and moved on to doing other things. And I will always keep my reloading process simple because it cost to much to loose interest in and I really want to keep it pure for the joy of doing it and not turn it into a chore that is in the way of doing other things. But as you said each to their own ways.

How weird! I’m glad you figured it out.

This is a valid point you made and I tried the following: phone at least 4 feet away, phone not in the same room, and a different space which wasn't under a fluorescent light (I believe the light in this house over the table shown in the video is a genuine fluorescent fixture which are known to cause EMF problems (think: don't run Cat 5 (back in the day) network cables over fluorescent fixtures)). Flakier than a box of Wheaties.

Fuck yeah we are, took me nearly two hours ending up just pushing the side that needed to go in on a window ledge since when I tried on a table I was moving the whole table

That's ideal but I wasn't near a power source. I've used a heat gun in the past and it works very well.

I didn't have the time to burn it like I usually do

Didn't have the time to burn it like I usually do

I can't spell either the that either

@@AmericaWhereisOil to be clear I'm not making fun just had a genuine laugh at it, English is dumb 👍

We no longer have the house which these locks were in. However, I don't recall anything inside the allen head screws. If there are "ball bearings" in the heads I would say that someone was there before you and thought they were being extra secure by blocking the allen head recesses (or they were on meth).

@@grassroots9304 turns out the locksmith who installed it drove them in for security purposes, these are hardened balls that come with the deadbolt

@@tomhughes4980 That makes sense if the side with the cover access to the bolts is exposed to folks we want to stay on that side. Not very handy for re-working the lock later, though.

I'm sorry, I'm not 100% sure I know which piece you're speaking about. If you mean the piece around the bolt, it should be affixed to the bolt mechanism and be removable after the cylinder pieces (inner and outer) are removed. If you're speaking of another part, I'd need a picture to know which part it is. I'm sorry I can't immediately offer more help.

@@grassroots9304 thanks for the reply! Just the trim piece/face plate around the sliding deadbolt on the side of the door. I’m looking to remove it to polish or paint it but it’s not budging after removing the two Phillips screws.

You're very welcome. I'm very grateful that this video has benefitted so many.

No thank you. I say enough bad words messing with this flimsy, thin stuff. ;)

That's a solid idea and would be easy in the summer heat in Texas (where I am). I'll keep that in mind but this was done during the cooler late winter/early spring. Still, that's a solid idea, thank you.

@@grassroots9304 I hooked mine to the hot water heater drain then straightened it out, currently I have one stretched across my field with a ball valve at the end so I can put pressure on it.

@@ExploringCabinsandMines Very obviously an awesome idea. I, however, am not bright enough to come up with obvious answers which also work well. Why can't I think of things like that? That would have helped me. Thank you for sharing. It takes a village.

De nada, mi amigo.

I would very much think so. My well is set to run to 65 PSI, if I recall correctly. I will check it tomorrow and post back if it's *not* at least that high. I think most municipal/utility districts would run around 40-50 PSI. You can adapt a garden hose to PVC (they make/sell fittings to do so) and then plumb in a pressure gauge to read the pressure at any hose bib you have. I have a pressure gauge on my pressure tank which is how I know what my system is running.

I have since checked my well pressure: it cuts in around 45-50 PSI and cuts out around 65 PSI. You can adapt a PVC garden hose female to a cap and drill/tap a hole for a pressure gauge and check your water pressure.

@@grassroots9304 thank you.

That would have been nice. I don't mind the removal of panels...I mind that there are parts and bits to break as you figure out how the *#%$# to get them off.