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@@antman3525 they are time consuming. I have had to do it a few times during builds. someone always seems to hit or mark a brick with something.

Thanks mate

@@pitamberthapa5839 Timber suppliers. I got mine from W.A. Timber sales

I'M in W.A. (Perth)

yes . your first cut with the angle grinder will give you a cut through the downpipe. the snips give you the angle cuts for the bend. it also geys rid of the swarf on the first cut. If you want a better look I have a video on how to make a downpipe which shows you the angled cuts.

​@@dennisperrie Thanks a million Dennis. I think I've watched 90% of your videos, at least once. Of course I'm subscribed and liked each one and added all to a RUclips list so others can find your videos. Dennis, bless you matey, for making all your videos and teaching me and others the skills that you have learnt. It is people like you that make the world a better place. I say that with the utmost sincerity! I had intended to ask you to do it, but my puppy dog escaped and got hit by a car and I got a $6,000 vet bill. It was my plan, to simply add a new down pipe, hence my question... However that isn't an option due to the location. Plan B: I am going all in, removing two external and one internal corners, pulling 2 x ridge capping to get at facia panels, which have drooped. The low point is directly under the valley and my house was built with few down pipes. (9 meters and a corner to the left and 2 meters and a corner to the right. Water doesn't go uphill and the fall is out in both directions. i.e. The fall is to directly under the valley. I need to remove the ridge capping, gutters (which are solder joined) and facia panels and then raise the facia clips and reinstall the facias, gutters, then re-bed 2 x ridge capping with concrete, repoint the capping... The gutter profile is the complex s curved style from 1998 making corners that much harder. Big job for a first timer! To be honest its daunting with rain forecast for tomorrow, but my original plan was to add a new down pipe, but boxed soffits mean no room to run a new outlet from the rear of the gutter. The low point is under a valley and with the wood roof beams and wood for the soffits, there is no way to achieve this. So a simple job has become a pretty big one. So, with your videos and a lot of luck, and a little help from very high above, I hope I can do this myself today.... Or wait until after the rain and take the time constraint off. Again, my sincere thanks for your great videos! You are a champion!

@@Smart-Skippy Good luck and don't be afraid a wise brickie once said if you make a mistake, you just have to redo it. It is only time it will cost you but the skill of learning you will keep forever.

@@dennisperrie Thank you for taking the time to reply and your kind encouragement. bless you for your kindness, Dennis !

@@tomsnoad how so

@@dennisperrieDon’t pay him any mind, clearly just someone who doesnt know what hes talkin ab

@@bigballox6454 this is how we finish it in this case. It means all you are dealing with is wood. I have seen it done other way but this is quicker and easier.

Thanks I appreciate the feedback.

Just a nit, but I would use a wrench of the proper size rather than pliers, which screw up the finish.

small mirrors are useless. I had to change them to bigger ones.

I went back recently, and it looks like new. The studs are treated pine so they are designed to be used outside so I cannot see a problem there. The fibre cement is painted which makes it waterproof and it is not weather side limiting the amount of water hitting it, I cannot speak for the other product but this has been very good.

@@dennisperrie so you should use this kind of sheeting only with treated studs, right?

@@danielroque1669 yes without a vapour barrier I would use traeted pine.

Not on this because that becomes a different fix. If that was the case it would probably be easier to prop the roof and replace the post

I could have but we were putting it in place to take the really big storms we can get in W.A. and if you see the overflow in the front of the rainhead should handle that as well as the rainhead making the existing downpipe more effective. also it fit into rhe existing stormwater without altering it

spot on

@@geoffstein3896 none at the moment. If a job comes up I will film it but quad is pretty rare. all the same principles as standard guttering applies however it is kust a different profile

@@dennisperrie thanks mate. I just wonder if it can be replaced easily enough or if you need to remove the roof to do so, I have a colourbond roof which would make it more difficult.

@@geoffstein3896 It is Harder on a colourbond roof but usually you can change it without removing the roof.

@@dennisperrie thanks mate. Keep the content coming mate, I enjoy it 👍 if you're ever up Port Stephens way I have a job for ya with pay, and ya could film it too 😀

@@rakjy5628 if it is sealed properly with roof plumbing silicone it will last. make sure you use the correct silicone. also the base is very maluable so it bends easily.

@@SeanSmith4550 I cant tell you how effective this is at finding leaks. it has located problems i would never have found just using my eye.

It depends on how big the sag is. Generally, the gutter sits of the facia, you can put some Hardi flex under it to slightly lift it, but you will be limited to how much you can lift it, and it doesn't look brilliant. You can install an overflow pipe in the bottom of the gutter but that can cause problems controlling your water runoff. It depends from case to case.

@@garethtillson8706 my pleasure

On it

It still has to be Plastered and it is core filled . I still has to be finished but it had to be flashed as it is raining at the moment here.

@@LeBeau1 I keep getting on the roof and forgetting them.

@@billikonomou1542 tec head

if you don't want a join in it and 8.5 but the problem Is it will take two people to hand it .generally i would put a slip join in it as it will be more forgiving when doing mitres . Also you cannot carry an 8.5 on your car so you would have to pay for delivery which would add at least another 120 onto the job

@@dennisperrie thanks heaps for the advice. Keep pumping out the content as I enjoy learning the roof plumbing. Would be good to see a video in depth on the measurements used to cut downpipe to achieve the different angles etc. cheers

@1PricelessShot but when you are doing gutters you generally use a metal drill bit for ease.

My Pleasure