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I absolutely agree

Why I do my own brakes

Just think of it they r dumb, cheap and uneducated.

Im absolutely shocked. This is a job that can be done by anyone thats not disabled. If it were just the pads thats a 2 hr job for a noob. Insane.

What a Jack ass with no Jack mode thanks 4 the tip

A 120.00 dollar fix is now 1000.00 or more! Hahaha 😂

Yep i do believe so

Lol 😂😂😂😂

if i seen that i person and seen the driver i would deadset walk up to them and question how stupid they are to leave there fucking brakes like that 😂😂

Wer bremst verliert

That seal is a fail safe for stupidity

I agree people are getting dumber. But people are also getting poorer. And the cost of running a vehicle is astronomical now. I had a broken piece of plastic on my van door. They wanted £130 to repair it. A piece of plastic 2 inches long. 1 new tire costs £120 on my van. Sometimes after giving my right leg to pay to live in a house I don't have enough to do repairs. And if I just give up my van then we're all homeless and starving. while I agree people are getting more stupid. I would also implor you to think a little differently. So, so many people are clinging on for dear life and don't need to be called stupid.

No it's a money issue

The sad part is they probably didn't have the money for new brake pads. Now they need a complete brake system 3x or 4x as much.

Mechanical incompetence is a public health crisis!

I'm sorry but this can be done easier and probably faster. You can get it out from the engine bay with the car on the ground. This can be done in any parking space without a lift of any kind and probably fewer tools. It may take a bit of arm strength because of the leverage you'll have on the alternator working on these angles but it's quick and fairly easy. This seems like a lot but it's really just three main steps. Steps to: 1 remove the air intake between the engine and the bumper. 2 remove the electric cooling fan' 3 remove the alternator. Then of course... Reinstall All Be on your way. Can be done any where it's safe to work. No need to lift the vehicle. No need to remove the bottom plate. No need to remove suspension or control arm elements. No need to remove the power steering pump. No need to reinstall all of the above. This is for the alternator that is not oil cooled. It's for the one shown in the video. I have never removed an oil cooled alternator. Disconnect the battery. Remove the air intake and air box. and the plate that holds the hood latch assembly and turn it to the side, Leaving the lines connected. Remove the cooling fan/oil cooler assembly and protect the open end of the oil cooler lines that you disconnect from the fan assembly. this is the only place they are to be disconnected. make sure nothing gets in them (It's two lines, one bolt each). One of the lines connects horizontally near the top. If you look straight down in the same area, you'll see a connection on the second line that when disconnected pulls straight up. No need to disconnect that line from the bottom. The Assembly has a tab that is hinged on the driver's side. It allows to clear parts on the radiator. Hinge it in away from the radiator and it should lift straight up, no problem. Be careful how you handle the assembly since the cooler is full of oil. try not to drain it. Keep it upright or place in a large garbage bag to protect your work area from oil. Disconnect the upper radiator hoes at the radiator and bend it out of the way. if needed raise the small electric coolant pump it attaches to off the frame rail and to the side. Removing the fan assembly gives plenty of room to remove and install the alternator and moving the lines out of the way helps give arm clearance to work. If you want to you can place a sized piece of plywood to protect the radiator but it is not needed if you're mindful and careful. Remove the alternators idle pulley. It can be left on but it really gets in the way of an easy reinstall. You may have to feel for the alternator mounting bolts, unless you want to get cute with the phone camera, but they are easily located. Once they are removed you can rock the alternator forward off of the pin, It won't move far, you'll just feel its weight and it will want to settle onto the car structure below it. move it down and to the right and turn it so that the alternator clears the mount. when you do this, you can then remove the electrical connectors and remove the alternator. Make sure the battery is disconnected. The large cable taken off the alternator is positive and will short to any metal part of the car and can cause damage to electrical components and potential fire if flammables are present. This has nothing to do with this method. its just electricity and how it works. Take a picture of how the wire attaches before removing them, if possible, the correct orientation can seem wrong when putting the large one back on. Make sure the battery is disconnected or there will be sparks. When reinstalling, attach the wires first and feel the mount area to remind yourself on how it fits in. it won't go straight back, you'll have to put it so that the screw holes fit between the mount' It's easy to forget and try to just force it backwards and end up fighting with it. Once it's in and fits in position lift the alternator up into position and use the longer bolt on the top hole, (it doesn't belong here but acts as an assistant). Screw it in by hand to support the weight of the unit. It doesn't have to go in far. Then rock the alternator back into place and onto the support pin that should be there but can't be seen. then remove the long bolt and either install the correct short top mount bolt or place the long bolt in the bottom hole where it belongs then install the top bolt. Alternatively, you can support the alternator by hand and put each bolt in its correct position starting with the long bottom bolt (it's easier than the short top bolt then try to rock the alternator back onto the support pin that should be behind it on the mount. You'll know its in place before torquing bolts because the alternator Pully will be in perfect line with the other pulleys and not be angled in anyway. Reinstall everything. Now reinstall the alternator idler pulley, Coolant lines the fan assembly. Remember the hinged tab near the top and that the fan tabs in at the bottom. Gently pull it back, it should not move away from the radiator at the top or bottom. if it does check and reseat it. Now reattach the oil coolant lines. Then the belt, (remove and reinstall the belt without getting Coolant on it). This can cause a permanent squeal when the engine is running that can only be cured by replacing the belt with a new one, easy but avoidable. Now install, the air box and air intake and top plate that holds the hood latch assembly. This is structural so get it right. You may need to top off the coolant. If you do it without removing the coolant lines and they are in good condition, then no coolant loss or top off will occur or be needed. This seems like a lot but it's really just three main steps. Steps to: 1 remove the air intake between the engine and the bumper. 2 remove the electric cooling fan' 3 remove the alternator. Then of course... Reinstall All Be on your way. Can be done any where it's safe to work. No need to lift the vehicle. No need to remove the bottom plate. No need to remove suspension or control arm elements. No need to remove the power steering pump. No need to reinstall all of the above.

Is there a way to reset the transmission fault code?

Thank you so much! Would you recommend a website to purchase a new throttle body online? Also does the Jeep compass 2014 have a specific throttle body or its the same model regardless of the year of the car ? These are the error codes: P2110 P2118 Throttle Actuator Control System - Forced Limited RPM Throttle Actuator Control Motor Current Range/Performance Thank you for the video! Loved it 🇦🇺🇦🇺

tried that and no dice, i've tried everything bar prying it open, any other suggestions?

This method works on 2019 3.2L auto 2wd with V band clamp all done from top with wiper cowling out, took me a leisurely 2.5h to remove.

Awesome find

Thank you

has the front bumper and crash bars been removed as others seem to do this

Hello "Getting it done" I saw that in your channel have some problems. For these problems your channel is not much growing. Not getting much engagement. If you can solve these problems, Your channel will get more engagement. If you can give me permission I can tell to you about these problems. Can I tell here or email? Okay?

Thank you for the info.

Perfect video! Straight to the point and complete. Cheers from Costa Rica!!

People who don't know basic principles of how a car works, shouldn't be allowed to own / drive one. If it isn't already, it should be part of the driving test....

Fuse

It's not working, nothing changes/does not start flashing?

What a waste of time...can't see anything

Does this work on the newer models as well 2017 onwards?

Thanks for this! I own a citroen c3 picasso 15 reg and its the same filter. Other videos are completely different. I assume its because its a shared Peugeot part? Anyway, thanks!!

Why do my local suzuki agent not stock or even properly list this part? (New Plymouth New Zealand) part number 24727-82kn0 apparently

What did you do get it to work..I pulled the brake unit box...and see the wires but what do I do next. Someone said use a paperclip?

Thanks for this. It's working.

Will wd40 do it?

for those of you stuck on the power steering pump there’s a hex bolt on the back of it

Hello! I have the same issue as yours except it is a Honda Vezel. Just to summarise what you did is to get a second hand gearbox and a new clutch set?

I'm asking for the guide line for opening the door panel of Nissan blue bird

I cannot get reverse in my 2015 bt50 manual , how do I adjust , cheers

Gosh! Who would have thought that with all this advanced tech there are still problems? And boy, are those problems ever so mysterious - needing a computer to tell you what is working or not - and even then it's not necessarily what one would think but could be something completely seemingly unrelated. .

I saw a frantic woman at the gas station with this problem and it totally worked!

Great video, is smoke from the exhaust ALWAYS a sign of bad glow plugs (Motor in good condition so it is not rings etc) Trying to differentiate from glow plugs or battery in cold weather.

So I have a doosan d18 motor that I replaced the injectors on and now the lift pump portion on the fuel pump all new feed/ return lines etc. It definitely loads up the motor with the IMV valve disconnected and runs great. Issue I am experiencing is anytime I shut it off after running it will not restart but if I let it sit for a few minutes it fires right up. Any Ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

Do you need to vacuum bleed the coolant system afterwards ? I had error codes for the pump after I replaced my egr , there was no code thrown up before I replaced the pump and there was coolant in the egr … everybody is saying it will need bled through again ?

Lock clicks on and off endless.

A very rare car over here in Blighty. But the same rules apply to any car with the same kind of set up. Of which plenty German cars do 👌👍

I have same issue but I also find there is an oil leak on the ground but no overheating.... Could it be anything else ?? Or should this fix it ??

Many thanks for the video, im planning on having the egr cooler replaced on my everest 3.2 as it is nearing 90k kms. Is it recommended to also replace the egr valve when doing this or just the cooler?

Seen your video on EGR cooler replacement .There is even a more easier way to carry out this repair I am ford tech and the trick is to remove both wiper arms,the plastic cowling held in by plastic clips just need a flat blade screw driver for these clips .Once top cowling is removed go for the metal plate that holds the wiper motor assembly remove all the 10mm bolts disconnect the wiring loom to the wiper motor note if you have fender indicators cut the wire which goes to right side only will need re-soldering when refitting.Should give you so so much more room to get all the bolts that hold both the EGR and cooler.I split the EGR away from the cooler to make it easy to remove cooler as you did on the left side And for more excess remove the 4 torx bolts that secure the EGR motor I believe the bolts a E25 or E30 1/4 drive ratchet,extension bar. or try a torx Allen key. This method applies to both BT50,Ford Ranger 3.2 auto or manual 2WD or 4wd.This method gives greater access and the whole job should take between 2 to 3 hours.