Kate Yeiser
Kate Yeiser
  • Видео 27
  • Просмотров 2 958
Dirty Smelly Hippy, 8a, Red River Gorge
My spouse, who is 5'5" with a +2 ape, and I, who am 5'4" with a -2 ape, do almost the same beta in the crux.
Просмотров: 497

Видео

Flour Power, 13b/8a, Red River Gorge
Просмотров 53528 дней назад
Two cruxy bits for me, as a 5-foot, 4-inch climber with a negative-2 ape. Moving to Clip 6, there's a big move that is totally fine using a less-than-ideal right sidepull. Then moving to Clip 11, a high left foot helps me bump through a small moist left pocket to a better rail. The bottom of this video is of a working burn; from clip 6 to the top it's my send burn. No beta changes between the two.
Heart-Shaped Box, 7b+, Red River Gorge
Просмотров 102Месяц назад
A lot of footwork needed for this crimpy little climb
Desigual, 7c+/13a, Cogollos Vega, Spain
Просмотров 237 месяцев назад
Hard two-bolt crux featuring some awkward shorty-beta.
Mar de Incertidumbre, 12d, Rincon Bello, Spain
Просмотров 438 месяцев назад
This took me longer than most 13a routes. The men I saw climb this all span though both crux sections from good hold to good hold. As a shorter climber with shorter arms, I had to rely on intermediate crimps. The bolting was also spread and a bit wonky, so we added two long draws in the top section.
Nueva Vera, 13a, Cogollos Vega, Spain
Просмотров 368 месяцев назад
Many thanks to local climbers Ro and Miriam for awesome short-arm beta for the low crux and MUCH easier direct beta for high crux.
Nametianos, 12d, Cahorros
Просмотров 318 месяцев назад
Long draw at the crux and the chains.
Camino de Chino ext., 13b, El Salto
Просмотров 499 месяцев назад
The extension was hard to capture due to video angle, so it's a bit grainy.
Huiratica, 13a/b, El Salto
Просмотров 149 месяцев назад
Was 13b, downgraded to 13a; then a hold broke so local consensus bumps it back up to a 13b. But no move felt frustrating as a climber with a shorter reach.
Quesadilla, 12c, El Salto
Просмотров 69 месяцев назад
Tricky crux clip; consensus is to transition low and clip off a left gaston flake crimp.
Hijo de Puta, 12c, El Salto
Просмотров 339 месяцев назад
For a shorter-armed climber this was a proud send. I had to use an intermediate nubbin and some crimps in the main crux, from bolt 7 to 8, rather than the standard beta. But I also found, because my arm length, the lower section, between bolts 5-6 was equally challenging. Alt beta there: My wife used a heel hook where I toe in hard.
Nosferatus, 12c, El Salto
Просмотров 4510 месяцев назад
As a 5’4” climber with a negative ape, this had two reachy moves. Kneebars got me through and notes those two places in the video. Thank you to Bobbi Bensman for pointing out the right hand chip at the crux.
Team Wilson, 12d, Red River Gorge
Просмотров 72Год назад
I’m 5’4” with a negative 2 ape, and nothing felt too reachy on this climb. Was able to keep feet lower than I thought through first crux. A high right foot and a toe scum made second cruxy bit comfortable. Options I did NOT take: a lay-down rest at the third bolt and a knee-bar at a bum-crack feature 2/3rd of the way up, at your last solid rest.
Snooker, 13a, Red River Gorge
Просмотров 251Год назад
As a shorter climber with a negative ape, it was helpful to extend the fifth draw so I didn’t have to make an extra move. I also extended the 8th so I didn’t have to hang out on the clipping hold too long. Most people skip the last bolt but with that draw the clip was quick and I didn’t see the need to skip. Thanks to another shorty from Beta Addicts for a key right foot at the crux between bol...
Easy Rider, 13a, Red River Gorge
Просмотров 177Год назад
As a shorter climber with a negative ape, I did the crux, between bolts 4-6, differently than taller climbers. The video starts at bolt 4.
Tonsai Playboy, 12a, Tonsai Bay
Просмотров 166Год назад
Tonsai Playboy, 12a, Tonsai Bay
Don Ho, 12a, Sinks Canyon
Просмотров 25Год назад
Don Ho, 12a, Sinks Canyon
Jungle King, upper section, 12b, Thaket
Просмотров 4Год назад
Jungle King, upper section, 12b, Thaket
Nirvana, 13a, Sinks Canyon
Просмотров 21Год назад
Nirvana, 13a, Sinks Canyon
Stain, 12c, Red River Gorge
Просмотров 44Год назад
Stain, 12c, Red River Gorge
Killer, 12c, Sinks Canyon
Просмотров 36Год назад
Killer, 12c, Sinks Canyon
Tuna Town, 12d, Red River Gorge
Просмотров 126Год назад
Tuna Town, 12d, Red River Gorge
The Force, 13a, Red River Gorge
Просмотров 566Год назад
The Force, 13a, Red River Gorge
SteepThrills, 12a, Red Rocks
Просмотров 12Год назад
SteepThrills, 12a, Red Rocks
Foundation, 12c, Sinks Canyon
Просмотров 6Год назад
Foundation, 12c, Sinks Canyon
Cartoon Graveyard, 12d, Sinks Canyon
Просмотров 26Год назад
Cartoon Graveyard, 12d, Sinks Canyon
Tour de Pump, 12b, Red Rocks
Просмотров 18Год назад
Tour de Pump, 12b, Red Rocks

Комментарии

  • @MS-fg8qo
    @MS-fg8qo 12 дней назад

    Beautiful rock ❤

  • @joeyhoman7846
    @joeyhoman7846 14 дней назад

    Did you clip the chains from the sloper or the good slot before that?

  • @betaaddicts
    @betaaddicts 14 дней назад

    Beta Addicts approved beta! Nice send!

  • @hunters7697
    @hunters7697 Месяц назад

    nice work. the algorithm wanted me to see this- was on buff the wood while you all crushed!

  • @jenna_kwon
    @jenna_kwon 7 месяцев назад

    This is amazing beta! Thank you!!