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I'm not a lawyer or a landscaper, and I do not know the scope of your agreement with them, so I can not comment directly on your question. However, I can say this: It would be VERY DIFFICULT if you have grass all the way to the base of your house so that the sprinklers do not hit the house at some level. If a customer were to ask me (as a painter), what I would suggest is to have 12-24" of barrier (rock?) between the house and where the grass starts. This way, nearly all sprinkler-caused stucco damage would be minimized. Hope this helps!

@@mikerickeraz I guess after listening I would think the sprinklers should have been set up professionally pointing away from the home and not towards it

​@@siestakeygirl1000 I think I may not have explained this in enough detail. I believe a common sprinkler head used up against a house is a 1/2 circle model. The obvious goal is to have the area covered with water in the grassy area, stopping along the straight line that dissects the circle parallel to the house wall. The problem with this is that the "edges" of this 1/2 circle spray will usually contact the house, causing damage or at least discoloration. Your response indicates the sprinklers were pointed AT THE HOUSE. This is clearly the wrong way to complete a sprinkler system. My understanding is that most times when a sprinkler system is set up, the sprinkler head should be fine-tuned to point in the correct direction AND keep it off the house (essentially not a true 180-degree spray angle but maybe 165-degree angle. The good news is that this should be a relatively easy fix. I hope this issue was caught before it significantly damaged the house. I hope this clarification of my previous answer was helpful.

@@mikerickeraz yes exactly that's my point. I appreciate you I a..a woman that who depends on people like you to resolve my issues. Appreciate you!

This video was a while ago, and I do not remember the exact product we used, but it was likely Peel Stop, Peel Bond, or Seal Krete. These are all excellent products to essentially "glue" down the surface once it has been cleaned.

No. These tiles are always on an angle so you'd have a ladder on the "bumpers" (this is what we call them) and on an angle. If you did this you'd likely end up on one of those RUclips "fail" videos.

@mikerickeraz What about if the ladder has the ladder levelers?and a person to hold it for extra support

We offered this option for the homeowner; however, they did not want the extra cost.

Great question... The customer on this job did not want to pay the extra cost if it would make the cinderblock completely smooth. Block filler is good... but it's not that good! Thanks for the question and the feedback.

Apsolutli annesesery tu do block filer on that type of fence

There are a few variables... but $8/l.f. for a 6' high fence.

We typcially do not use "additives" to paint. On this particular project we actually used two different primers. The first was "Peel Bond" followed by Dunn-Edwards Ultra-Grip. We then painted atfer both primers were applied.

Your comment is the most preferred way to go. However, most homeowners will not pay the additional cost for this. We've had great success with this method. We've had this solution long before I did the video on it. I believe the last cracked tile we had was about 4 years ago. Additionally, if the homeowner won't pay for a roofer to remove the tiles we let them know that while we take great care not to break any, we do not take responsibility if any are broken.

You posted a great video with perfect execution⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️🌠

Where or what kind of foam did you used?

@@user-oi4dh2zf8h I bought 5" hi density foam from Amazon. It came in a 8 foot roll which I cut into 2x2 foot squares and glued 1/2' thick plywood squares on top that Home Depot sells.

Yes. This is a problem. The issue is the most typically the "other side" of the fence is not my owned by our customer. It's owned by their neighbor. And the neighbor can do whatever they want. They could, if they were spiteful, hook up a sprinkler to soak the wall day and night... This is the difficulty with these types of barriers. Does that make sense?

so I have this exact wall ( Rancho Mirage, CA) I am planning to paint. our neighbors have a hedge on their side which does get watering everyday. We have drilled paths the mortar on the bottom cinderblocks to allow of water to 'escape', but still water comes through a little on the first block or 2. Is there an additional primer, or step I can take before painting our side that will help with possible future peeling/bubbling? @@mikericker3434

looks like a foam mattress cut into squares.

We were using a Graco 490 airless sprayer. There is no air tank for airless sprayers. Let me know if you have additional questions.

What tip are they using

@@rolandorod7811 Most of our projects (exterior home repaints) use a 517 to 619 tip size. We don't purchase larger tips for these projects but you could go higher.

@@CrashOfRhinosPaintingAZ how much would a project like this be for that big wall u were not done with

The short answer: There are no great options. Fences and retaining walls are almost always going to fail early. The primary issue is water is disrupting or destroying the substrate from the inside out. So, anything that is applied to your side of the fence only helps with your side of the yard and not the water entering from the soil on the neighbor side of the fence. Simply put, expect this to be a regular maintenance item. Not the news you likely wanted to hear but knowing this you may be able to chat with the neighbor if they happen to be watering close to the fence and have them stop or slow it down. Even if they are not watering near the fence there is normal moisture in the ground that will seep through to your side. Let me know if you have any more questions.

@@CrashOfRhinosPaintingAZ thanks for the feedback.

I used reclaimed upholstery cushion or matress latex foam.

It really depends on the specific application. We do residential re-paints... Anything that is at least 3000 p.s.i and 3 GPM should work just fine. There are specialty applications in which the water is heated and others that use chemicals but we don't need any of that on our jobs. Plan on spending $1500 to $3000 on a decent unit.

You can use old bed, too.

I bought hi density foam on Amazon 5" thick. It was 2 feet wide by 8 feet long. It came compressed in a roll which expands upon opening. I bought precut plywood from Home Depot in 2 feet by 4 foot sections and cut these in half to make a square 2' by 2'. Bought Flex Glue that comes in a caulk tube and slathered it on the plywood then put each plywood square on top of the foam and weighted the top down for good adhesion. WORKED GREAT!!!!! I have double barrel tile roof and needed to paint the eaves that couldn't be reached by ladder because of different roof levels being in the way on a two story. I could walk on the plywood squares and didn't crack a tile. I had to keep moving them as I moved along the eaves so should have made up three but got along with two squares. I still have enough foam for a third square so can get that made up for next time. This process works, give it a try!

@@SusanHumphreys-iy3hbWhat thickness of plywood did you use? I weigh around 196lbs…do you think I should go with 2 or 3” thick foam, or do you think it matters?

@@Bizzoness I used 5” thick hi density which is more stable than thinner foam. 4” probably would work as well. I used the precut 1/2” plywood from Home Depot and was glad I didn’t buy the 3/4” which was much heavier. Definitely make three so you can line up two to stand on and a third to move onto. It was tricky to get used to the process but it worked with no cracked tiles.