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I saw the earlier post on the 3d print, thanks for your video!

You can do that. Using the spunding valve is better because you wont have pressure spikes that cause the carbonation to shoot out of solution causing a bunch of foam

Hey mate, ever since getting the Guten 70L I've never made a single batch, only doubles. Saying this, I have previously fermented a single cube in another large fermenter without issues. I don't see why it would be a problem at all, I say go for it!

They are from Kegland, they look good with the hidden mounting plate.

Sure thing, I found it here www.thingiverse.com/thing:1679507

@@tophatbrewing7884 Thank you very much!

I generally go over with my volume since I use 2 cubes which hold 22L each, but only fill 2 19L corny kegs. I've never really had the chance to empty it completely.

Yes I do. The entire boil, and all ramping is done at 3000w, the mash is 1000w or something close. I don't find that I get much scorching.

It's still pretty warm when I end up using it, I'll try remember to take a measurement next time. Some people cold sparge so I'm not too concerned about the temperature. For the additional costs/effort involved, I don't see the need to change my set up at the moment.

My understanding is that it is the hops in beer that get oxidised easily, shouldn't be a drama with cider made like this. That being said, I still use my normal methods of transfer which should minimise oxygen exposure just to be safe.

@@tophatbrewing7884 thanks, that makes sense. Looks like an easy brew. I’ll put one together in the coming days. Not normally what I drink, but think my wife owes you a thank you. 😂

This one is 500L, pretty good size I think.

@@tophatbrewing7884 yep, looks big. Just asked as I’m looking at a similar build, but only expect to go 6 kegs max. Rather go too big than too small though. Why did you decide to keep the Co2 inside in the cold, wouldn’t it be more beneficial to keep the gas in ambient temp, especially when level gets low? Maybe it wouldn’t make much difference?

@@jens5934 The only reason it is inside is because looking at a gas cylinder in the dining room isn't something I would like. It's also out of reach to anyone who thinks they know what they are doing or children. As a bonus, when I take it to get filled it's already cold so they can usually refill on the spot annd fit a little more in.

@@tophatbrewing7884 I didn’t even think on any of those issues you mentioned, especially the tank being cold for refilling. 👍

Hi Jens, I haven't tried it yet but I will soon. Need to get back in to it and make more beer, I've had a break for too long!

@@tophatbrewing7884 your problem is not enough lockdowns in your area! 😁 I’m just wondering if you think the keg enter would fit ok on the bucket blaster stand and support it alright ? I really enjoy your videos, very informative and to the point. Thanks

@@jens5934 I think it would be alright, I'll try and test it out soon for you.

@@tophatbrewing7884 FYI, it fits and balances okay. It does sandwich the pumps power cord between the bucket rim and the top of the Kegmenter though, so recommend putting something around the cord to protect it. I used a bit of split hose tubing.

I haven't tried corn, but it doesn't mention it in the description of the ad.

The orange ones? They are just from a hardware store.

Hey mate, I make all my own recipes.

I got the file from www.thingiverse.com/thing:1679507 and printed it at home. They call it a poppet popper, pretty catchy.

I find the false bottom requires less messing around once it is in place. The helix worked well but most of the time I would need to use the paddle to open it up.

@@tophatbrewing7884 I've just bought my first guten and going to give the helix a crack first up. If I have to keep splitting the rings with the paddle then I'll go for the false bottom. Really liking your videos mate, would like to see more.

@@jello1977 Definitely give it a go, I would like to hear your thoughts on it. You may have more success than me. Thanks mate, I've had a bit of time off but I'll be back making more videos soon!

Did you have to remove the tap to get the helix on?

@@jello1977 You need to loosen it to get an elbow or tee on initially. But you can then leave that on between brews and just remove the helix each time for cleaning.

Hi Ashley. No complaints so far, I would definitely recommend it.

I'm lucky enough to have a partner who works in a lab. Should be able to find similar on eBay though.

If it aint ghetto, I aint interested!

Thanks mate. Send me a link to some pictures when you build it!

Hi Dave, adding oxygen at pitching or just prior has no detrimental effect on the finished beer. Many people actually buy an O2 cylinder and use an aeration stone to get as much oxygen as possible in the wort to help the yeast.

Hi Mick, yes I am. I started by moving everything 20 minutes closer to flame out and tweaking from there. A hop stand after flameout seems to work really well for hop forward beers. Let me know how you go!

@@tophatbrewing7884 Thanks mate

Hi Timo, yes just regular 12mm silicone hose. Brouland or Bahnik might stock the same stuff that I use www.kegland.com.au/heavy-duty-silicone-tube-2m-roll-10mm-id-x-15mm-od.html

Hi Paul, it was a little over 12 months, can't remember how many batches sorry. I'm told that this is a rare occurrence, and a 3 year warranty on the product should provide some piece of mind.

Hi Shane, there are a few places around, this place is quite popular though peopleinplastic.com.au/product/tapiac_-_58mm_tap_in_a_cap/