Видео

I really need to start posting some more videos of my fixtures.

I have one and love it.

This is a beauty.

I love these. I love the starter holder on yours.

wrapped in vinyl, these are "RED" - they use a similar type in meat fridges for that RED meat look

This Champion is a totally different company from the spark plug maker. They did use components like bases from GE. The early Westinghouse MAZDA fluorescent lamps up to about late 1939 were made for Westinghouse by GE because they weren’t tooled up to make their own MAZDA F lamps. So it wasn’t uncommon to do that. Champion made incandescent bulbs as far back as the 19-oughts and in the carbon filament and sintered as well as early drawn wire tungsten filament era. This lamp is post war just after the availability of brass returned. These still used the early beryllium activated Phosphors. I have a Westinghouse F15T8/PK in an early 1950’s illuminated nature scene wall hanging light. Still works. Cheers!

I like the history of fluorescent lamps. The 40's is when they really got them figured out. I just got a case of F40T10's to try out. I've only tried one so far. It starts up real nice in a preheat fixture.

There actually is a European version of this turntable running at 220V/50Hz, which is also silver. I have and use one of those. In Europe these players came fitted with the DL-160 cartridge, which sounds awesome. But that had become unobtainium nowaday. The DL-110 cartridge is virtually the same and still available, but highly overprices (they used to be sold for around $80, nowaday's for around $300). I run this table with a DL-301 MKII cartridge and also used the DL-110 and DL-160 (bought them when they were still widly available and cheap). I would advice you to pair it with a Nagaoka MP-100 or MP-200. These cartridges suit the compliance of the player and will sound amazingly good on this turntable.

Hey man, I had a question I hope you can help me with. I was playing my freestyle bumpboxx and out of no where it started smoking from the vents and the smell of buring electronics got strong. I turned it off and took it outside. Any ideas on what do you think could be the problem?

That's a beautiful turntable. It's such a shame that they don't make anything like this anymore.

Hey man, awesome video, I have a questions and hopefully you have an answer or idea, my bumpboxx like that one charges and off the charger it only last 30 min, works while charging but off of it it’s only 30 min. Thank you in advance

I just love the look of the new impacts with the tri lights

Should have chose a tool, that battery is outdated

someone help me i cant stop watching tool videos...

As an electrician you dont need m18 anyway, the m12 would be way more useful. Anyway definitely an incredibly late video but I always like seeing peoples opinions

! The Batteries Last a long while on a Single Charge and if I Knew that earlier I would have gone for the extra Tool option. Plus the extra Battery just Lying around may go dead so you end up buying a tool to use it with anyway!

Very cool. We had one over the kitchen sink that we never turned off. I think it was an 18" bulb. I replaced the bulb one time in like 15 years of continuous service.

So neat to see another very old fixture! I have one that is almost identical to this one, but mine was hound in a salvage yard probably 30 years ago. Main difference is mine has the original Advance ballast that is a high power factor! To this day, that is the only high power factor preheat ballast for a single F20T12 lamp that I have seen. I have no idea how old the ballast is as it is old enough that it does not have a date code! And the fixture is old enough that the knock outs were not a standard size! I did end up repainting the fixture as the paint was literally turning into a powder.

A suggestion,junk boxx,put it in the trash😂 really i expected great electronics and so many people put the bass and treble up and need usb to sound good,these people dont know sound

I have opened up a few ballasts for repairs. I replaced capacitors in a couple 90's HO ballasts mostly just to get a feel for it. I have had a 1940's ballast open for wire repair. Liquid electrical tape is a good solution for frayed wired also.

It could have had an early CFL bulb in it.

My bumpboxx plays but after 30 min it makes a loud beeping noise what can it be ?

I swear my grandmothers house had a 3 foot version of this that was still in use in the 1990s.

I really love preheat fluorescent. I found my first one about 10 years ago and have gotten quite a few more over the years. I try to install them in places where I can use them fairly regularly. Really nice to have stuff that just lasts for decades. Most 4' preheat stuff is pushing 80 years old. The shorter lamps stayed preheat longer

That is so cool! I love old flourecent fixtures, I have a very old fixture that I bought from an antique shop. I'd date it from the 1950s! And it works great. Exact same construction too with all the hardware mounted on the cover. And It was made in South Africa! Where I used to live, Now I live in Scotland so I have to find more vintage fixtures to put in my new workshop as I could not take many of my old ones from South Africa sadly. But we will get there in the end! Great video, Keep it up!

That would look cool hanging from a corded socket in a dark room...I think I remember seeing Christmas themed bulbs like that.....

That looks like the one over the kitchen sink in the trailer I lived in as a teenager in the '70s..as I recall, it created a lot of radio interference. I also had one of the newer ones from the early '90s in a floor lamp... ultraviolet from the lamp rotted the plastic, and it sort of crumbled, but it lasted a long time.

I had one exactly like that in high school back in the '70s...it was in a wall sconce ( think Frankenstein's castle) I built in shop class. As I recall, it lasted quite a few years...

That fixture might have been made for 35 years with little or no change. There's no a lot to change, really. Two jobs ago, they had the oldest fluorescent light I have ever seen...you pulled a chain to rock the entire fixture to start it! Turn the switch on, nothing happens...until you rock the fixture and get beads of mercury rolling inside the tube, then it glowed a weird greenish white color....it looked late '20s or early '30s... That fixture you have hasn't been used much. ...cool find.

Please throw out those wirenuts, they are banned in many countries for a reason...

This exact fixture hung over my mom's sink for over 40 years!

Very sweet old little fixture! I have a couple of those old General Electric tubes too, in use in my 40’s era daybrite lighting fixture over my electronics workbench! Operating on 120V via a step down transformer since I live in Sweden where we use 230V mains. It has a sweet old General Electric ballast, it’s an absolute beauty. It has so much iron in it that it has almost a perfect power factor, and doesn’t even need a capacitor! It doesn’t seem to mind 50hz operation either, doesn’t get hot and doesn’t overdrive the tubes!

I think @TechnologyConnections made a video about one of these at one point

I also like @Parrot175 and I recently started a lighting channel called Owen’s Lights And More. I think that’s a very cool fixture.

OH!! The ITT lamp is made by Sylvania, and not original. It is a replacement. The original was probably a GE. The ITT ones are pretty scarce. Too bad it is crap 4150 K headache inducing COOL WHITE, thouhj. 😫

It is actually a ceiling fixture that was made into an adapter. You can see the mounting hole in the back made to fit a 3-1/4 inch or a 4 inch octagon or round box. This is early 1950’s. The 22 watt 8 inch and 40 watt 16 inch diameters circline lamps appeared on the market in 1952, and the 32 watt 12 inch diameter lamp was put on the mary in 1945. The potted GE choke/reactor ballast is a late 1940’s to late 1950’s item, so most likely made between 1952 and about 1958. Usually the actual specs for them are on the backing plate of the ballast, earlier ones with a paper label, lager ones stamped into the metal. The number you see is the order code. Ad for the brittle rubber/cloth wires on old ballasts, just be sure the wire isn’t touching the inside of the hole in the case of the ballasts and apply good quality clear or white RTV in a squeeze tube package around tge wires and onto the case, and up on the wires a bit and let it set up. Be sure the ballast case is clean so it sticks well to hold and insulate the wires, and apply and shrink heat shrink tubing up to where the wires are still flexible and use the ballasts. I do it a lot. Works fine. The lamp is not pronounced “Circ-YOU-Line” but merely “Circ-Line.” Nice adapter, it is a very early one! Also, one more Circline bulb was the 20 watt 6 inch diameter one introduced in 1977. Cheers!

Another nice application for these circline fluorescent adapters would include a long chain swag lamp or a ceiling mounted pendant lamp if the shade is large enough.

I also have a 22W T9 preheat circline fluorescent adapter similar to this one and decided to replace the ballast with an Advance LC-25-TP ballast in order to allow the lamp to run at full power on a 120V 60Hz supply since the original Robertson SP2 ballast underdrove the lamp quite a bit. I also like how they have replaceable P21 base starters. An interesting fact about the base designation of 2 pin fluorescent starters is that while most countries do bot have an official base designation for the standard 2 pin twist lock starter base, Japan somehow gives these fluorescent starters the “P21” designation for standard 2 pin starters.

Got a few PL adaptors, that are a magnetic ballast in a case, that has a B22D base on it, and which will operate any self starting PL lamp from PL7 to PL10, and gives a good lamp life. Ballast will have a date stamp in ink under the ballast, the top stamping is a part number, and you will also likely will also find there is another rubber stamped ink number under the ballast on the actual base as well, showing the assembly date of the fixture as well.

Wow, that is one sick adapter! Definitely the oldest 22 Watt adapter I’ve ever seen. Those 20 W linear fixtures you were talking about I’m pretty sure I referred to as “kitchen units”, and I would almost dare say that adapter you have right there could almost classify as one as well. 20 W linear tube kitchen unit seem to be the most common, I actually happen to have an interesting interesting single foot three lamp half pipe variant which seems to be extremely uncommon. Someday I should shoot a video of it.

I think these mercury vapor bulbs use a quartz envelope

Lol 😂 I have one in my bedroom in a newer package (also Sylvania) because I swapped it out from an old Deitz oil lantern with a red lens my Uncle made into an electric lantern in the early 1970’s, so that’s when this was made. Circa 1970-1974. The American ones all had perforated electrode plates. St lest GE and Sylvania. Westinghouse never offered these. The GE ones had a different plate shape. Duro Test made these too and they had solid plates like the imported ones. The one in the lantern is imported and has solid plates. I took it out to preserve it as they are really hard to find. I have the spare to this one still, my uncle gave it to me on Christmas day 1972, and it is an ABCO madd in Japan and it is beautiful and incredibly well made. I don’t have the box for either bulb but both work perfectly, and I have the very flicker flame ever made and sold-Aerolux brand, circe early 1960’s! My Duro Test ones are in thar era too. The Areolux is in a T10 tubular bulb with ivory paint from the flame plates down to the base. Rate lamp! Avoid using these too much. They flicker because they are essentially burned out even brand new, with the “hunting” of worn out electrodes typical of neon glow lamps when the emission material on the plates gets depleted, so the life in use is unpredictable, some will do up to 1000-1500 hours ( still short life) or can fail in a few minutes. So keep this in mind. If it was mine it would stay in the package. Cheers!

Open circuit to at least one cathode. Either one or both cathode filaments went open from possibly a stuck starter making the ends glow until they burned out, or one of more of the Dumet leads to the stems have corroded out. The black socks on both ends indicate a lot of use. Nay be out of an exit sign, who knows.

I have one but it is missing the lens and was when I got it. Works fine though. As for the 1000 watt metal halide ballast-YES IT WILL correctly run a 1000 watt H36-18 mercury lamp no problem!! They are rated for both! Don’t let the shorter arc tube of the 1000 watt metal halide lamp trick you! They actually require MORE voltage to start than a mercury lamp. It os the OPPOSITE way-a 1000 watt metal halide MAY start on a 1000 watt H36 mercy ballast, but it is not guaranteed, and it will likely become unstable as the lamp gets near full brightness, causing the lamp to drop out and cycle like an HPS lamp at end of life. In my experience 1000 watt metal halide won’t even start on a 1000 watt H36 mercury ballast. But a 1000 watt H36-15, or just H36 on newer lamps will run happily on a 1000 watt metal halide ballast, and ditto for 175, 250 and 400 watts as well. Both lamp ballast codes will be on the MH ballasts. So you DO have the proper ballast! But note-if you come across a pretty scarce these days, 1000 watt H-34-12 mercury lamp, just be sure you realize that these are NOT electrically interchangeable with the very common H36-15 lamps. The H34-12 lamps have a lower arc voltage and higher are amperage and that is 8 amps. The high voltage common H36-15 are 4 amp. The H34-12 lamp was designed for industrial buildings that have 240 volt delta 3 wire with no neutral systems and used 240 volt simple choke ballasts. The H36-15 lamps have a 480 volt starting voltage and run on 120, 208, 240, or 277 volts with auto transformer or constant wattage isolated secondary ballasts, or on 480 volt simple choke ballasts. They are considerably more efficient and brighter than the lower pressure H-34-12 lamps, so took the market. Also, 240 volt delta services aren’t very common in this country either. And a 240 volt or multi tap CWA or CWI ballast for H36-15 high voltage common lamps can work in place of the less efficient H34-12 lamps so many were swapped out. But yup your MH ballast will happily run an H36-15 mercury lamp perfectly and actually run cooler too! One final thing-the 150 watt rating on your H39 ballast is indeed for HPS retrofit bulbs for mercury fixtures. GE, Westinghouse, Philips, and EYE made them. Standard HPS lamps like LU150/55 won’t work. Cheers!

I have a GE 201 SA from 1987 with that logo and Made in USA on the fitter as well. These 101SA used to be common around the older part of town here, but most got changed to LED, I did find one that’s still there, not sure if it works.

I have a 1938 Westinghouse MAZDA 15 watt BLUE brass ender that is NOS and is one of the very first fluorescent lamps ever made, likely shortly after the commercial introduction of fluorescent lamps on April 21, 1938! Also, Westinghouse MAZDA fluorescent lamps are GE made and re-labeled, at least until mid-late 1939 when they got equipment to make the lamps themselves. Sizer were only 3 until mid 1939-the 18 inch both T8 and T12, the 24 inch T12, and the 36 inch 30 watt T8. Colors were: Blue white, soon called Daylight (6500K), White (3500K), blue, pink, green, and gold (yellow). The 4 foot 40 watt T12 was introduced in mid 1939, and the uber rare 36 inch, T-17 65 watt and the early 100 watt T-17 100 watt (later reduced to 85, then 90 watts) came out about 1942.

It is late 1940’s (1946-1949) to early 19650’s. I guarantee it was either lying around or came out of an old desk lamp thar either got a newer lamp or was crap-canned because the rubber type POSJ cord had the rubber either turn to goo or dry so hard it shatters of the wire when flexed. I had to replace the pedal ligjt and main power cord in my Hammond C-3 organ because of it getting brittle like that. People don’t know how or want to replace these cords, so they chuck the lamp but save the bulb. The WHITE fluorescent lamps are 3500K, which is neither cool nor warm, so in the middle. The restart thing is known as “hung lamp” and is the STARTER causing it, because it has too fast of an action in the actual preheat mode when the contacts are closed, and the cathode filaments don’t have enough time to glow and emit free electrons, and the lamp starts off the inductive kick of the ballast with cold cathodes and won’t fully light so it drops out and restarts. It is very bad for the lamp! Will cause rapid end blackening with short run cycles. Try another different starter with a longer preheat period, ESPECIALLY on very early MAZDA lamps made between 1938 and 1945. Inadequate preheat periods will almost instantly destroy these! Better to use a manual push button start desk lamp and a minimum 3 second preheat period (until both ends glow the color of the phosphor) on old lamps! Also, early fluorescent lamps have very short lives! Early MAZDA lamps are only about 1000-1500 hour! This Sylvania is about 3000 hours, modern ones from late 1950’s to present are 7500 hours. Cheers!

Real nice Sylvania you got there! My only brass end tube is my 1951(?)Sylvania F8T5, which came in the first ever fluorescent lamp I ever bought, and was no doubt original. Very high hours, but it still works. a true testament to the quality of these old tubes and how gentle a manual preheat circuit is on a lamp. I should also note that that tube is of a smaller diameter than the modern F8T5s which is interesting… I also have my 1944 Sylvania F15T12 steel ender, a relic from the aftermath of World War II’s metal rationing.

Hey Tyler have you ever heard of a company called Sylvania ? There obsolete now but they made a par 38 mercury lamp a bit back 100 watts ?

This is likely an still is an old beryllium activated phosphor lamp and that type of phosphor is not very efficient nor is the material very stable. I have an early era for the aluminum base of this style base, standard warm white that has a good amount of of hours on it, but little end blackening that is just as dim. It is post-beryllium phosphor, but early standard warm white, and obviously the only thing that is wrong is the phosphor or certain components of it, as “white” lamps are always mixes of 2-3 saturated colors, so red and blue or red and blue with a minute amount of green as well, have lost their ability to produce light because the UV from the mercury arc destroyed it I said red and blue, but meant pink and blue since there is no saturated red phosphor for these lamps available. The degraded components drastically reduce light output as well as shift color. I noticed this lamp is pinkish now, so that means the blue phosphor is degraded. Not unusual as blue fluorescent tubes quickly dim out. The blue Sylvania fluorescent Christmas lamps were VERY prone to dimming out faster than the green, pink, etc. if there wasn’t enough mercury, the lamp would be not only dim, but unstable. It is not, so scratch that. If was pumped poorly and air or foreign substances were present, the arc would “snake” and the collisions with the foreign gas or matter will cause the lamp to get HOT, calked “gas cleanup” which also happens when an electrode sputters and traps the the gas in the lamp and lowers the pressure and reducing the pressure in the lamp. Actually a common failure in neon sign tubes. So it is none of tge above EXCEPT ONE! Degradation of the BLUE phosphor in the 2 component mix! You have basically a dimmed out low pressure phosphor coated mercury lamp here. The phosphor is simply worn out. The pinkish color tells the tale! Cheers! 👍🏻