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Thank you! I've definitely done this as well, for example I spent a year and a half in Cambridge far from both outdoor climbing and hills/mountains..definitely counterproductive 😅

Yes, and tell me what you took away from it!

@@theoamvr I think you did a great job summarizing the actionable insights from the book and I would agree on the four points you picked. Personally the book was also a big inspiration to pursue ice climbing. His adventures were gripping and it convinced me to invest in proper gear before my first ice trip coming up soon.

Definitely! It's high up on my list for the next book

Haha I know eh, I feel like I've collected all of them by now

Damn, impressive!! 💪💪

Hi there! It's pretty hard for me to say just from this.. Have you seen a physio/doctor? Do you have weakness/pain when doing curls in a pronated vs supinated position? In general, the exercises I recommend here, which are pronated curls with a band (starting with eccentrics and progressing to concentrics) and then with light dumbells are safe and they're not going to injure you by themselves, as long as you introduce them with a reasonable load for you (you shouldn't be feeling pain when doing them). I hope this helps and good luck with your recovery! (p.s. for me the pain was mostly on the outside and deep, but also on the inside..)

I'd say that from the time I first saw my physio (and started implementing the rehab exercises and proper warmups) the pain went dramatically down within a month. However, I want to note that for a long time after that I wouldn't really be able to climb 2 days in a row without risking to "reawaken" the pain. Probably 1-2 years before I could climb 2 days in a row relatively safely (with the 2nd day being less intense). Unfortunately, since the damage accumulated over time for me, it was also a long process of recovery. I hope it's not as bad for you!

I have so many questions, brother. Would really appreciate it if you could clear them all... 1) How long does it gonna take to fully recover?? 2) How many reps and sets of these exercises?? Can we do 'em 4,5 times daily?? After how many days shall we shift to dumbells from resistance bands?? 3) Please tell us more about dry needling and kinesiology tape (you used it daily before climbing sessions??). 4) Every doctor suggests the same RICE method as you mentioned. Your physio suggested that you continue with low intensity and high volume?? How can I do it with badminton?? 5) Compression and Elevation??

I have pain on the inside of brachialis.

I'll reply as best as I can, but first I want to emphasise that I'm not a health professional, so please seek support from a doctor and a physiotherapist (ideally with applied sports-specific experience). First of all, I have no experience with badminton. From what I can guess, the main problem comes from the forceful extension of the elbow when you hit with the racket. This type of extension exactly caused problems for me in climbing when my feet would slip, so my advice in this video is to improve footwork technique to avoid this unexpected extension completely. For you.. I don't see how that would be possible, since it's part of the movement patterns of the sport. But I still definitely think it's worth thinking about whether it's possible that your technique can be improved so as to avoid aggravating the injury. Then, we go to the next option which is 1) gradual strengthening of the associated structures 2) adequate warmup before your games/practice. Ideally, you would start from eccentric exercises (just lowering the weight/band, raising with help from the other arm) and progress to concentric exercises as you get stronger and the pain is disappearing. Do as much warmup as possible before your games (including a bit of general warmup to increase temperature and bloodflow to the area and also specific warmup with the band/light weights). Avoiding days in a row and optimising your nutrition and recovery will probably help as well. Now I'll try to answer your numbered questions. 1) I really can't give an exact answer, it heavily depends on the extent of your injury and how much your sport aggravates it.. But see also my reply to another comment here asking about the timeline. 2) I started with very little load. I did only 8 reps per arm, 2/3 times a day (and in the beginning these were eccentrics as I said above). I added reps only gradually, like the second week I went to 10, then to 12, then to 15. Then I slowly started using the band under more tension to increase the intensity (i.e. I stepped on it closer to my hand if that makes sense - you can use a marker to be consistent and monitor your progress). Only after a few months I started actually using dumbells of 4kg, then later 6kg. It's not an exact timeline, and it will largely depend on how your own body is responding to the rehab. 3) The dry needling was done by the physio on 2 occasions only if I'm not mistaken. It's supposed to release trigger points and increase bloodflow to the area if I understand correctly. I'm not sure how effective it was for me, but I have never done again in 4-5 years and I don't seem to need it since.. For the k-tape, I used it for a few weeks during my climbing sessions, I was shown how to apply it by my physio, but again I haven't used it for more than 4 years, with seemingly no long-term need for it. Maybe it helped a little bit in the acute phase though..? 4) Yes, the RICE is a bit outdated, especially in the prescription of complete rest. It's actually better to apply some load for recovery, but obviously this load needs to be applied progressively. But it's really hard for me to say how you'd do it with badminton, because I don't know the mechanics of the sport. I would really seek an expert on it. 5) I'm not sure elevation is really relevant after the acute injury phase when there is potentially inflammation present in the tissue. Compression did help me a bit with the pain, I was using this elbow sleeve that is in the video. However, I'd say that it's best not to become too reliant on it, because it might make you overly confident, leading you to reinjure yourself. Hopefully the above is helpful in some way. As I said, please seek professional help if you can ideally. For me, it was very helpful to adopt a long-term mindset and accept that it will take a long time and consistent effort to get better. And it did! I hope you can resolve it as well!

First of all, thank you so much, brother, for giving a detailed answer. Much appreciated. It looks like I'm out for 6,7 months, or possibly won't even be able to play badminton daily for the next couple of years, definitely not if I keep on playing with pain and hurting the muscle time and again.... I have pain on the inside of the elbow, not the outside btw, is there any difference??

Thanks! I'm sorry for your injury and hopefully you can resolve it soon!

Haha I'm glad to entertain her! Maybe I've found my target audience 😂

@theoamvr She definitely enjoyed it! At first she was like: "I know him, I've been there!... Where is Lily?" and by the end of it she insisted on putting our shoes on and coming to you!

You're always welcome back!!

Ισχύει! Ακριβώς επειδή είναι τόσο βασικά, νομίζουμε συχνά ότι δεν είναι τόσο σημαντικά και ψάχνουμε για το πιο πρόσφατο χακ... Και όντως το να ξεκινάς στα 27-28 απαιτεί τελείως διαφορετική προσέγγιση σε σχέση με το να ξεκινάς ως παιδί. Τα comp kids κάνουν ό,τι θέλουν και δεν τραυματίζονται χαχα

Thank you! And thanks for your continued support of the channel, it means a lot!

Ah great! I actually did get more out of it the second time I read it

Thank you! I'm glad you liked it!

Agreed 😁

I do, with a small caveat: It can be a little bit overwhelming with the amount of exercises it includes. I'd say to spend most of your time trying to climb with as much focus as possible, and then potentially choose one exercise per session and play around with it. You will get more value out of the book as you progress further

Thanks! Sure! I've already read the Rock Warrior's way and I definitely think there are useful takeaways. I haven't read Vertical Mind yet, but I'll add it to my list!

Sure!

Thank you for this feedback, it's really great to hear! And, indeed, you've called it exactly right, going forward I'm planning to make a mix of practical and conceptual videos. Both interest me, and hopefully other people as well

Amazing! I'm glad you found it helpful! Just out of curiosity, what's your line of work that requires asking the right questions?

Glad you thought so!

Damn, that's many pullups. Is that for an entire month? You're gonna crush this challenge for sure

​@theoamvr Thank you man no its actually up until February or mid January. I'm raising money so I can do Christian ministry abroad in Australia and I took the challenge of doing 10,000 pull-ups. I'm at 3000ish rn. for your 5min challenge I managed to do 42 pull ups! Happy with that for now lol. I have never seen 5 minutes go by so fast 😅

@@eric_calisthenics_05 wow, that's so impressive seriously 🤯 good luck with it, sounds brutal. Good job on the challenge as well 💪💪

​@theoamvr thank you man glad I found your channel btw I'm implementing a lot things I've learnt for my 1 arm pull up and climbing in general. Yeah it is brutal but mainly on my skin lol. my hands are destroyed rn 😅

That's great to hear and good luck with your future progress! Ah, I know, my hands were destroyed too after the challenge haha

@@NDRobinson 😂 not v2??

@@creiziklu yes!

Thank you for the kind words! I hope it helped you have a better session! 💪

Thanks for taking the time to write such detailed feedback. It's true that in my little "gimmick" intro I didn't go all the way up and didn't really hold it, because I got fried from doing multiple takes of it haha It's strange, but actually the bottom part of the oap is the hardest for me. For the left arm for example, that's where I get stuck, but if I start a little engaged, then the rest is no problem. But I think it varies for different people. But your point about the band helping with training the top position is definitely valid, it certainly provides less help up high

@@alexamvrosiadis3700 very close!

@@vincentsimonis2316 haha very generous of you, but I'd need to train much more for that!

Thanks for the feedback. And you're right, I have been thinking the exact same thing, to incorporate an explicit pause in my deadlifts too 👍

I hope so too! If you get it, come back to let me know!💪

Aw, thank you! That's nice to hear!

Ah, cool idea, thank you! I can try to do that for sure, even though it will then need to be adapted to each person's level

Thank you, that's what I aimed for!

Thank you so much, it means a lot!

Yeah, I enjoyed it as well!

@@Saurusss my current gym doesn't grade the problems anymore, but I'd agree with you. Probably a bit softer for the tall even (because they don't have to cut for the last move)

@@theoamvr i like the dynamic a lot though, i’d probably do the problem like that anyhow. a lot more elegant and difficult.

@@Saurusss agreed, and requires much more precision too