Theo Amvrosiadis
Theo Amvrosiadis
  • Видео 26
  • Просмотров 36 415
How I fixed my brachialis tendon injury (as a climber)
In this video, I share my journey, from how I originally injured my brachialis (holding kickboxing pads for 100kg guys) to the bad habits-like skipping warmups and poor sleep during my PhD-that made it worse. But it’s also about how I turned things around.
I’ll explain a bit about the anatomy of the brachialis muscle, what sets this injury apart, and the changes that finally helped me recover. Today, I’ve gone from not being able to lift a glass of water to doing one-arm pull-ups and muscle-ups.
What you'll hear about in this video:
• Why the brachialis is important for climbers.
• How stress, bad habits, and poor technique can make injuries worse.
• How the POLICE approach (Prevention, Opt...
Просмотров: 459

Видео

Read this book to improve your climbing technique
Просмотров 1,6 тыс.14 дней назад
In this video, I explore "Rock Climbing Technique" by John Kettle, a book that’s had a big impact on my climbing approach. If you’ve ever struggled to understand why you’re falling or felt your progress plateau, this book could be a game changer. Kettle emphasises awareness and mindful practice, encouraging climbers to find their own solutions through a method called the “constraints-led approa...
Making more intentional climbing decisions
Просмотров 87021 день назад
Climbing is full of trade-offs, and each decision we make comes with its own opportunity costs. Should you specialize or aim to be a generalist? Project hard problems or focus on volume? Live close to your job or move near the crags? In this video, I explore some of the key trade-offs we face as climbers and why it’s crucial to be intentional about our choices. By bringing awareness to these de...
Average climber vs 5-minute pullup challenge
Просмотров 806Месяц назад
In this video, I'm going to be doing the 5-minute pullup challenge, in which you simply try to do as many pullups as possible. I will let the video of the pullups play uncut with a timer, but to keep things a bit interesting I will be talking about how you can train to do your first pullup, if you haven't managed to do one yet. Try to guess how many pullups I'll be able to do before watching th...
How to train for the one-arm pullup (as a climber)
Просмотров 3,9 тыс.Месяц назад
In this short video, I give some exercise progressions as well as related training guidelines to achieve your first one-arm pullup. Even though one of the premises is that you can already do regular, unassisted pull-ups, if you can't do those yet, you can adapt what is shown here to achieve those too! I'm also assuming that you have access to weights, a weight belt, and a pulley system, but mos...
Get stronger and avoid injuries with this climbing warmup
Просмотров 271Месяц назад
Get stronger and avoid injuries with this climbing warmup
Weight Training for Climbing
Просмотров 3112 месяца назад
Weight Training for Climbing

Комментарии

  • @brian1575
    @brian1575 3 дня назад

    How long did it take you to Heal the injury?

    • @theoamvr
      @theoamvr 2 дня назад

      I'd say that from the time I first saw my physio (and started implementing the rehab exercises and proper warmups) the pain went dramatically down within a month. However, I want to note that for a long time after that I wouldn't really be able to climb 2 days in a row without risking to "reawaken" the pain. Probably 1-2 years before I could climb 2 days in a row relatively safely (with the 2nd day being less intense). Unfortunately, since the damage accumulated over time for me, it was also a long process of recovery. I hope it's not as bad for you!

  • @noornabi5904
    @noornabi5904 3 дня назад

    Facing the exact same injury for almost an year but from badminton. I did similar exercises for 2 and half months, resumed badminton and pain came back within a couple of days...what would you advice me??

    • @noornabi5904
      @noornabi5904 3 дня назад

      I have so many questions, brother. Would really appreciate it if you could clear them all... 1) How long does it gonna take to fully recover?? 2) How many reps and sets of these exercises?? Can we do 'em 4,5 times daily?? After how many days shall we shift to dumbells from resistance bands?? 3) Please tell us more about dry needling and kinesiology tape (you used it daily before climbing sessions??). 4) Every doctor suggests the same RICE method as you mentioned. Your physio suggested that you continue with low intensity and high volume?? How can I do it with badminton?? 5) Compression and Elevation??

    • @noornabi5904
      @noornabi5904 3 дня назад

      I have pain on the inside of brachialis.

    • @theoamvr
      @theoamvr 2 дня назад

      I'll reply as best as I can, but first I want to emphasise that I'm not a health professional, so please seek support from a doctor and a physiotherapist (ideally with applied sports-specific experience). First of all, I have no experience with badminton. From what I can guess, the main problem comes from the forceful extension of the elbow when you hit with the racket. This type of extension exactly caused problems for me in climbing when my feet would slip, so my advice in this video is to improve footwork technique to avoid this unexpected extension completely. For you.. I don't see how that would be possible, since it's part of the movement patterns of the sport. But I still definitely think it's worth thinking about whether it's possible that your technique can be improved so as to avoid aggravating the injury. Then, we go to the next option which is 1) gradual strengthening of the associated structures 2) adequate warmup before your games/practice. Ideally, you would start from eccentric exercises (just lowering the weight/band, raising with help from the other arm) and progress to concentric exercises as you get stronger and the pain is disappearing. Do as much warmup as possible before your games (including a bit of general warmup to increase temperature and bloodflow to the area and also specific warmup with the band/light weights). Avoiding days in a row and optimising your nutrition and recovery will probably help as well. Now I'll try to answer your numbered questions. 1) I really can't give an exact answer, it heavily depends on the extent of your injury and how much your sport aggravates it.. But see also my reply to another comment here asking about the timeline. 2) I started with very little load. I did only 8 reps per arm, 2/3 times a day (and in the beginning these were eccentrics as I said above). I added reps only gradually, like the second week I went to 10, then to 12, then to 15. Then I slowly started using the band under more tension to increase the intensity (i.e. I stepped on it closer to my hand if that makes sense - you can use a marker to be consistent and monitor your progress). Only after a few months I started actually using dumbells of 4kg, then later 6kg. It's not an exact timeline, and it will largely depend on how your own body is responding to the rehab. 3) The dry needling was done by the physio on 2 occasions only if I'm not mistaken. It's supposed to release trigger points and increase bloodflow to the area if I understand correctly. I'm not sure how effective it was for me, but I have never done again in 4-5 years and I don't seem to need it since.. For the k-tape, I used it for a few weeks during my climbing sessions, I was shown how to apply it by my physio, but again I haven't used it for more than 4 years, with seemingly no long-term need for it. Maybe it helped a little bit in the acute phase though..? 4) Yes, the RICE is a bit outdated, especially in the prescription of complete rest. It's actually better to apply some load for recovery, but obviously this load needs to be applied progressively. But it's really hard for me to say how you'd do it with badminton, because I don't know the mechanics of the sport. I would really seek an expert on it. 5) I'm not sure elevation is really relevant after the acute injury phase when there is potentially inflammation present in the tissue. Compression did help me a bit with the pain, I was using this elbow sleeve that is in the video. However, I'd say that it's best not to become too reliant on it, because it might make you overly confident, leading you to reinjure yourself. Hopefully the above is helpful in some way. As I said, please seek professional help if you can ideally. For me, it was very helpful to adopt a long-term mindset and accept that it will take a long time and consistent effort to get better. And it did! I hope you can resolve it as well!

    • @noornabi5904
      @noornabi5904 2 дня назад

      First of all, thank you so much, brother, for giving a detailed answer. Much appreciated. It looks like I'm out for 6,7 months, or possibly won't even be able to play badminton daily for the next couple of years, definitely not if I keep on playing with pain and hurting the muscle time and again.... I have pain on the inside of the elbow, not the outside btw, is there any difference??

  • @joeaustin3312
    @joeaustin3312 3 дня назад

    Ive been having the same issue as you and it seems fateful that you have just released this video! I will definitely use this advice, great video 👍

    • @theoamvr
      @theoamvr 2 дня назад

      Thanks! I'm sorry for your injury and hopefully you can resolve it soon!

  • @creiziklu
    @creiziklu 3 дня назад

    5:25 Leda got too excited:"It's two of them!"

    • @theoamvr
      @theoamvr 3 дня назад

      Haha I'm glad to entertain her! Maybe I've found my target audience 😂

    • @creiziklu
      @creiziklu 3 дня назад

      @theoamvr She definitely enjoyed it! At first she was like: "I know him, I've been there!... Where is Lily?" and by the end of it she insisted on putting our shoes on and coming to you!

    • @theoamvr
      @theoamvr 3 дня назад

      You're always welcome back!!

  • @tsioko98
    @tsioko98 4 дня назад

    Βασικα πράγματα, που ειναι ομως και τα πιο σημαντικά να εχει καποιος στο μυαλό του και να μην ξεχνάει. Ακομα και οταν ο τραυματισμός ειναι πλεον εμφανής μονο στο 1% οπως είπες. Ίσως οι τραυματισμοί ειναι ωστόσο και η καλυτερη αφορμη για τις σωστες επιλογες, που οποιος θελει να προοδευσει καπου θα αναγκαστει να τις παρει. Και ειναι ισως και το πιο συχνο φαινόμενο, καθως πιθανότατα το σκαρφάλωμα(και οχι μονο), σε καποιον που δε το κανει απο παιδι, αργα ή γρηγορα θα εμφανισει τις αδυναμίες του. Και στην αρχη, σχεδον ολοι, τις πιέζουμε βλακωδως. Αλλα ετσι αναγκαζεσαι να μπεις στον σωστο δρομο, οπως ανεφερες, και να βελτιωθεις και συνολικα. Ουυυφ πολυ μπλα μπλα (λόγω ταυτισης)

    • @theoamvr
      @theoamvr 3 дня назад

      Ισχύει! Ακριβώς επειδή είναι τόσο βασικά, νομίζουμε συχνά ότι δεν είναι τόσο σημαντικά και ψάχνουμε για το πιο πρόσφατο χακ... Και όντως το να ξεκινάς στα 27-28 απαιτεί τελείως διαφορετική προσέγγιση σε σχέση με το να ξεκινάς ως παιδί. Τα comp kids κάνουν ό,τι θέλουν και δεν τραυματίζονται χαχα

  • @beelzebub2808
    @beelzebub2808 5 дней назад

    Amazing video as always!

    • @theoamvr
      @theoamvr 4 дня назад

      Thank you! And thanks for your continued support of the channel, it means a lot!

  • @beelzebub2808
    @beelzebub2808 6 дней назад

    Inspired me to re read the book!

    • @theoamvr
      @theoamvr 5 дней назад

      Ah great! I actually did get more out of it the second time I read it

  • @maldjia
    @maldjia 8 дней назад

    Nice! Very smartly explained

    • @theoamvr
      @theoamvr 8 дней назад

      Thank you! I'm glad you liked it!

  • @notalaka7002
    @notalaka7002 13 дней назад

    Climb to increase your climbing technique

  • @Ethan-3080
    @Ethan-3080 13 дней назад

    do you think the book can be helpful for someone starting out ?

    • @theoamvr
      @theoamvr 13 дней назад

      I do, with a small caveat: It can be a little bit overwhelming with the amount of exercises it includes. I'd say to spend most of your time trying to climb with as much focus as possible, and then potentially choose one exercise per session and play around with it. You will get more value out of the book as you progress further

  • @lilyt5244
    @lilyt5244 14 дней назад

    Great video ! Could you review "Vertical mind" or "The rock warrior's way"?! 🙏😊

    • @theoamvr
      @theoamvr 14 дней назад

      Thanks! Sure! I've already read the Rock Warrior's way and I definitely think there are useful takeaways. I haven't read Vertical Mind yet, but I'll add it to my list!

  • @Striker498_
    @Striker498_ 18 дней назад

    Do you think I should start posting my climbing vids? I have a whole gallery full rn lol

  • @AscendanceNocturne
    @AscendanceNocturne 22 дня назад

    I really like your style of video dude Between the really practical advice in the other videos and this one with the more general outlook on climbing, I feel they are going to resonate with a lot of people Especially this one, really down to earth in spite of the broad topic Congrats, and thanks!

    • @theoamvr
      @theoamvr 21 день назад

      Thank you for this feedback, it's really great to hear! And, indeed, you've called it exactly right, going forward I'm planning to make a mix of practical and conceptual videos. Both interest me, and hopefully other people as well

  • @IMadeDis2Vote
    @IMadeDis2Vote 22 дня назад

    I just wanted to thank you for this video. I've only been bouldering for a little less than a year, and as I learn, I’m constantly revising my training routine-either to avoid common pitfalls or to improve on newly exposed weaknesses. In my line of work, those who know how to ask the right questions tend to make the most progress. Your video doesn’t directly promote any specific training method, but instead, it outlines important questions I’ve been struggling to organize. It really helps.

    • @theoamvr
      @theoamvr 22 дня назад

      Amazing! I'm glad you found it helpful! Just out of curiosity, what's your line of work that requires asking the right questions?

  • @beelzebub2808
    @beelzebub2808 25 дней назад

    Such good advice!

    • @theoamvr
      @theoamvr 25 дней назад

      Glad you thought so!

  • @theoamvr
    @theoamvr 25 дней назад

    Just for fun, the phrase "No free lunches" has its roots in 19th-century American saloons, where bars would offer a "free lunch" to attract customers. The catch? The food was free only if you bought a drink-so, in reality, you always paid in some way. And the food was salty, so you ended up drinking more 😂Economists later adopted the phrase to highlight that everything comes with a cost, even if it's not obvious.

  • @Striker498_
    @Striker498_ 27 дней назад

    going to try this tomorrow. im currently doing 80 pull ups a day for a fundraiser which takes me 30mins with rest inbetween sets of 8-13.

    • @theoamvr
      @theoamvr 27 дней назад

      Damn, that's many pullups. Is that for an entire month? You're gonna crush this challenge for sure

    • @Striker498_
      @Striker498_ 25 дней назад

      ​@theoamvr Thank you man no its actually up until February or mid January. I'm raising money so I can do Christian ministry abroad in Australia and I took the challenge of doing 10,000 pull-ups. I'm at 3000ish rn. for your 5min challenge I managed to do 42 pull ups! Happy with that for now lol. I have never seen 5 minutes go by so fast 😅

    • @theoamvr
      @theoamvr 25 дней назад

      @@Striker498_ wow, that's so impressive seriously 🤯 good luck with it, sounds brutal. Good job on the challenge as well 💪💪

    • @Striker498_
      @Striker498_ 25 дней назад

      ​@theoamvr thank you man glad I found your channel btw I'm implementing a lot things I've learnt for my 1 arm pull up and climbing in general. Yeah it is brutal but mainly on my skin lol. my hands are destroyed rn 😅

    • @theoamvr
      @theoamvr 24 дня назад

      That's great to hear and good luck with your future progress! Ah, I know, my hands were destroyed too after the challenge haha

  • @SKRRRR393
    @SKRRRR393 Месяц назад

    Deadass V3 in my gym

    • @theoamvr
      @theoamvr Месяц назад

      @@SKRRRR393 😂 not v2??

  • @creiziklu
    @creiziklu Месяц назад

    Road of ants?

    • @theoamvr
      @theoamvr Месяц назад

      @@creiziklu yes!

  • @JoseTheReject
    @JoseTheReject Месяц назад

    Great stuff Theo Hilarious intro and perfect timing. I am heading for a climbing session now and this is a perfect way to change up my warm up routine!

    • @theoamvr
      @theoamvr Месяц назад

      Thank you for the kind words! I hope it helped you have a better session! 💪

  • @duuplo
    @duuplo Месяц назад

    You should definitely do a full oap when making a tutorial video. Even in some of your progressive exercises, you stop at about 3/4 of the way up, which is not ideal for demonstration. The last part that you're leaving out is definitely the hardest and holding the lock-off at the top should be the end position. Even in your isolated lock-offs you don't hold the true top position, but about the middle position. I recommend you try ring-one-arm-chin-ups to test if you can really pull yourself up with one arm, because that way it's easier to "feel" when you reach the final lock-off position. You still look really strong on the bottom half of the oap, so with a bit of training on the top half you should get really good at oaps rather quickly. For practicing the top part, I recommend either holding the (true) top position, or using a resistance band to do 3-5 full reps. A resistance band is good for that as it helps you less at the top than the bottom, because the band contracts as you pull up.

    • @theoamvr
      @theoamvr Месяц назад

      Thanks for taking the time to write such detailed feedback. It's true that in my little "gimmick" intro I didn't go all the way up and didn't really hold it, because I got fried from doing multiple takes of it haha It's strange, but actually the bottom part of the oap is the hardest for me. For the left arm for example, that's where I get stuck, but if I start a little engaged, then the rest is no problem. But I think it varies for different people. But your point about the band helping with training the top position is definitely valid, it certainly provides less help up high

  • @alexamvrosiadis3700
    @alexamvrosiadis3700 Месяц назад

    My guess is 53!

    • @theoamvr
      @theoamvr Месяц назад

      @@alexamvrosiadis3700 very close!

  • @vincentsimonis2316
    @vincentsimonis2316 Месяц назад

    80 for u , 25 for me :)

    • @theoamvr
      @theoamvr Месяц назад

      @@vincentsimonis2316 haha very generous of you, but I'd need to train much more for that!

  • @Striker498_
    @Striker498_ Месяц назад

    judging by your first I'd recommend lowering the weight and doing your 3 rep sets with a pause at the bottom for your deadlift. just an opinion tho 👍

    • @theoamvr
      @theoamvr Месяц назад

      Thanks for the feedback. And you're right, I have been thinking the exact same thing, to incorporate an explicit pause in my deadlifts too 👍

  • @Striker498_
    @Striker498_ Месяц назад

    thanks man this will hopefully help my 1 arm pull ups

    • @theoamvr
      @theoamvr Месяц назад

      I hope so too! If you get it, come back to let me know!💪

  • @lilyt5244
    @lilyt5244 Месяц назад

    Thanks for the training tips!

  • @aatoks
    @aatoks Месяц назад

    Thankyou

  • @beelzebub2808
    @beelzebub2808 Месяц назад

    Amazing. I just watched all your videos. Straight to the point. Solid advice! Please keep this up!

    • @theoamvr
      @theoamvr Месяц назад

      Aw, thank you! That's nice to hear!

  • @nahalnikbe4122
    @nahalnikbe4122 Месяц назад

    Thanks for the information, you just got a Like and Subscribe from me. If you can make like a training regiment with progression for like a month video it would be amazing.

    • @theoamvr
      @theoamvr Месяц назад

      Ah, cool idea, thank you! I can try to do that for sure, even though it will then need to be adapted to each person's level

  • @irinaabelian3632
    @irinaabelian3632 Месяц назад

    Bravo 👏

  • @AscendanceNocturne
    @AscendanceNocturne Месяц назад

    Good stuff man!

  • @iimaginewagons632
    @iimaginewagons632 Месяц назад

    Good, quick, simple explanation. Very nice 👍

    • @theoamvr
      @theoamvr Месяц назад

      Thank you, that's what I aimed for!

  • @m0n0x
    @m0n0x Месяц назад

    I only just realised a new channel! Love the production quality of the video!

    • @theoamvr
      @theoamvr Месяц назад

      Thank you so much, it means a lot!

  • @TheDardanius
    @TheDardanius Месяц назад

    🙏

  • @noahpoynter172
    @noahpoynter172 Месяц назад

    Nice climb

    • @theoamvr
      @theoamvr Месяц назад

      Yeah, I enjoyed it as well!

  • @irinaabelian3632
    @irinaabelian3632 Месяц назад

    Molodec!!! 👌

  • @TheDardanius
    @TheDardanius Месяц назад

    beast

  • @irinaabelian3632
    @irinaabelian3632 Месяц назад

    🤭 👏👏

  • @irinaabelian3632
    @irinaabelian3632 Месяц назад

    🖐️

  • @irinaabelian3632
    @irinaabelian3632 Месяц назад

    👍

  • @Saurusss
    @Saurusss Месяц назад

    what’s the grade on this? looks like v5 or so

    • @theoamvr
      @theoamvr Месяц назад

      @@Saurusss my current gym doesn't grade the problems anymore, but I'd agree with you. Probably a bit softer for the tall even (because they don't have to cut for the last move)

    • @Saurusss
      @Saurusss Месяц назад

      @@theoamvr i like the dynamic a lot though, i’d probably do the problem like that anyhow. a lot more elegant and difficult.

    • @theoamvr
      @theoamvr Месяц назад

      @@Saurusss agreed, and requires much more precision too

  • @irinaabelian3632
    @irinaabelian3632 Месяц назад

    👌 👏👏

  • @alexamvrosiadis3700
    @alexamvrosiadis3700 Месяц назад

    Cool!

    • @theoamvr
      @theoamvr Месяц назад

      @@alexamvrosiadis3700 you recorded this hehe!

  • @scottypenman5687
    @scottypenman5687 Месяц назад

    This training has to many ups and downs for me 😅

    • @theoamvr
      @theoamvr Месяц назад

      Haha definitely! It's not something that I'd choose if I had access to hills (like I do now e.g.). But if you have some nice music/podcast/audiobook, you can get into a rhythm

  • @Ectorius
    @Ectorius Месяц назад

    Ja genau

    • @theoamvr
      @theoamvr Месяц назад

      Glad you liked it (as far as I can tell 😅). Machst du auch muscle-ups?

  • @machinegunmax100
    @machinegunmax100 Месяц назад

    Sweet moves. Love that you didn't pick whatever the algorithm song of the month is.

    • @theoamvr
      @theoamvr Месяц назад

      Thanks haha, I wouldn't even know what the "algorithm" wants 🤷🏽‍♂️ it probably also wouldn't be my kind of music 😅

  • @probloxizza
    @probloxizza Месяц назад

    Did you know? A man’s leg broke into two pieces here! Hahahaha its really safe! Lol

    • @theoamvr
      @theoamvr Месяц назад

      @@probloxizza oh wow! I didn't know, and it's lucky I didn't know because I would have been scared shitless

  • @dwightschrute491
    @dwightschrute491 Месяц назад

    I'm no weight lifter but my brother is, keep that ass down and back straight!

  • @irinaabelian3632
    @irinaabelian3632 Месяц назад

    👍

  • @aerivenjiki7843
    @aerivenjiki7843 Месяц назад

    great! you can do more💪