- Видео 26
- Просмотров 36 415
Theo Amvrosiadis
Великобритания
Добавлен 19 окт 2014
Videos related to climbing, training, hiking/mountaineering, general fitness, and sometimes mixed with themes from neuroscience (motor skill learning, technique, focus, etc).
I'm a full time neuroscience postdoctoral researcher, so I will have time to upload longform videos twice a month or so.
If you have any subjects that you'd like to hear about from me, let me know!
I'm a full time neuroscience postdoctoral researcher, so I will have time to upload longform videos twice a month or so.
If you have any subjects that you'd like to hear about from me, let me know!
How I fixed my brachialis tendon injury (as a climber)
In this video, I share my journey, from how I originally injured my brachialis (holding kickboxing pads for 100kg guys) to the bad habits-like skipping warmups and poor sleep during my PhD-that made it worse. But it’s also about how I turned things around.
I’ll explain a bit about the anatomy of the brachialis muscle, what sets this injury apart, and the changes that finally helped me recover. Today, I’ve gone from not being able to lift a glass of water to doing one-arm pull-ups and muscle-ups.
What you'll hear about in this video:
• Why the brachialis is important for climbers.
• How stress, bad habits, and poor technique can make injuries worse.
• How the POLICE approach (Prevention, Opt...
I’ll explain a bit about the anatomy of the brachialis muscle, what sets this injury apart, and the changes that finally helped me recover. Today, I’ve gone from not being able to lift a glass of water to doing one-arm pull-ups and muscle-ups.
What you'll hear about in this video:
• Why the brachialis is important for climbers.
• How stress, bad habits, and poor technique can make injuries worse.
• How the POLICE approach (Prevention, Opt...
Просмотров: 459
Видео
Read this book to improve your climbing technique
Просмотров 1,6 тыс.14 дней назад
In this video, I explore "Rock Climbing Technique" by John Kettle, a book that’s had a big impact on my climbing approach. If you’ve ever struggled to understand why you’re falling or felt your progress plateau, this book could be a game changer. Kettle emphasises awareness and mindful practice, encouraging climbers to find their own solutions through a method called the “constraints-led approa...
Making more intentional climbing decisions
Просмотров 87021 день назад
Climbing is full of trade-offs, and each decision we make comes with its own opportunity costs. Should you specialize or aim to be a generalist? Project hard problems or focus on volume? Live close to your job or move near the crags? In this video, I explore some of the key trade-offs we face as climbers and why it’s crucial to be intentional about our choices. By bringing awareness to these de...
Average climber vs 5-minute pullup challenge
Просмотров 806Месяц назад
In this video, I'm going to be doing the 5-minute pullup challenge, in which you simply try to do as many pullups as possible. I will let the video of the pullups play uncut with a timer, but to keep things a bit interesting I will be talking about how you can train to do your first pullup, if you haven't managed to do one yet. Try to guess how many pullups I'll be able to do before watching th...
How to train for the one-arm pullup (as a climber)
Просмотров 3,9 тыс.Месяц назад
In this short video, I give some exercise progressions as well as related training guidelines to achieve your first one-arm pullup. Even though one of the premises is that you can already do regular, unassisted pull-ups, if you can't do those yet, you can adapt what is shown here to achieve those too! I'm also assuming that you have access to weights, a weight belt, and a pulley system, but mos...
Get stronger and avoid injuries with this climbing warmup
Просмотров 271Месяц назад
Get stronger and avoid injuries with this climbing warmup
How long did it take you to Heal the injury?
I'd say that from the time I first saw my physio (and started implementing the rehab exercises and proper warmups) the pain went dramatically down within a month. However, I want to note that for a long time after that I wouldn't really be able to climb 2 days in a row without risking to "reawaken" the pain. Probably 1-2 years before I could climb 2 days in a row relatively safely (with the 2nd day being less intense). Unfortunately, since the damage accumulated over time for me, it was also a long process of recovery. I hope it's not as bad for you!
Facing the exact same injury for almost an year but from badminton. I did similar exercises for 2 and half months, resumed badminton and pain came back within a couple of days...what would you advice me??
I have so many questions, brother. Would really appreciate it if you could clear them all... 1) How long does it gonna take to fully recover?? 2) How many reps and sets of these exercises?? Can we do 'em 4,5 times daily?? After how many days shall we shift to dumbells from resistance bands?? 3) Please tell us more about dry needling and kinesiology tape (you used it daily before climbing sessions??). 4) Every doctor suggests the same RICE method as you mentioned. Your physio suggested that you continue with low intensity and high volume?? How can I do it with badminton?? 5) Compression and Elevation??
I have pain on the inside of brachialis.
I'll reply as best as I can, but first I want to emphasise that I'm not a health professional, so please seek support from a doctor and a physiotherapist (ideally with applied sports-specific experience). First of all, I have no experience with badminton. From what I can guess, the main problem comes from the forceful extension of the elbow when you hit with the racket. This type of extension exactly caused problems for me in climbing when my feet would slip, so my advice in this video is to improve footwork technique to avoid this unexpected extension completely. For you.. I don't see how that would be possible, since it's part of the movement patterns of the sport. But I still definitely think it's worth thinking about whether it's possible that your technique can be improved so as to avoid aggravating the injury. Then, we go to the next option which is 1) gradual strengthening of the associated structures 2) adequate warmup before your games/practice. Ideally, you would start from eccentric exercises (just lowering the weight/band, raising with help from the other arm) and progress to concentric exercises as you get stronger and the pain is disappearing. Do as much warmup as possible before your games (including a bit of general warmup to increase temperature and bloodflow to the area and also specific warmup with the band/light weights). Avoiding days in a row and optimising your nutrition and recovery will probably help as well. Now I'll try to answer your numbered questions. 1) I really can't give an exact answer, it heavily depends on the extent of your injury and how much your sport aggravates it.. But see also my reply to another comment here asking about the timeline. 2) I started with very little load. I did only 8 reps per arm, 2/3 times a day (and in the beginning these were eccentrics as I said above). I added reps only gradually, like the second week I went to 10, then to 12, then to 15. Then I slowly started using the band under more tension to increase the intensity (i.e. I stepped on it closer to my hand if that makes sense - you can use a marker to be consistent and monitor your progress). Only after a few months I started actually using dumbells of 4kg, then later 6kg. It's not an exact timeline, and it will largely depend on how your own body is responding to the rehab. 3) The dry needling was done by the physio on 2 occasions only if I'm not mistaken. It's supposed to release trigger points and increase bloodflow to the area if I understand correctly. I'm not sure how effective it was for me, but I have never done again in 4-5 years and I don't seem to need it since.. For the k-tape, I used it for a few weeks during my climbing sessions, I was shown how to apply it by my physio, but again I haven't used it for more than 4 years, with seemingly no long-term need for it. Maybe it helped a little bit in the acute phase though..? 4) Yes, the RICE is a bit outdated, especially in the prescription of complete rest. It's actually better to apply some load for recovery, but obviously this load needs to be applied progressively. But it's really hard for me to say how you'd do it with badminton, because I don't know the mechanics of the sport. I would really seek an expert on it. 5) I'm not sure elevation is really relevant after the acute injury phase when there is potentially inflammation present in the tissue. Compression did help me a bit with the pain, I was using this elbow sleeve that is in the video. However, I'd say that it's best not to become too reliant on it, because it might make you overly confident, leading you to reinjure yourself. Hopefully the above is helpful in some way. As I said, please seek professional help if you can ideally. For me, it was very helpful to adopt a long-term mindset and accept that it will take a long time and consistent effort to get better. And it did! I hope you can resolve it as well!
First of all, thank you so much, brother, for giving a detailed answer. Much appreciated. It looks like I'm out for 6,7 months, or possibly won't even be able to play badminton daily for the next couple of years, definitely not if I keep on playing with pain and hurting the muscle time and again.... I have pain on the inside of the elbow, not the outside btw, is there any difference??
Ive been having the same issue as you and it seems fateful that you have just released this video! I will definitely use this advice, great video 👍
Thanks! I'm sorry for your injury and hopefully you can resolve it soon!
5:25 Leda got too excited:"It's two of them!"
Haha I'm glad to entertain her! Maybe I've found my target audience 😂
@theoamvr She definitely enjoyed it! At first she was like: "I know him, I've been there!... Where is Lily?" and by the end of it she insisted on putting our shoes on and coming to you!
You're always welcome back!!
Βασικα πράγματα, που ειναι ομως και τα πιο σημαντικά να εχει καποιος στο μυαλό του και να μην ξεχνάει. Ακομα και οταν ο τραυματισμός ειναι πλεον εμφανής μονο στο 1% οπως είπες. Ίσως οι τραυματισμοί ειναι ωστόσο και η καλυτερη αφορμη για τις σωστες επιλογες, που οποιος θελει να προοδευσει καπου θα αναγκαστει να τις παρει. Και ειναι ισως και το πιο συχνο φαινόμενο, καθως πιθανότατα το σκαρφάλωμα(και οχι μονο), σε καποιον που δε το κανει απο παιδι, αργα ή γρηγορα θα εμφανισει τις αδυναμίες του. Και στην αρχη, σχεδον ολοι, τις πιέζουμε βλακωδως. Αλλα ετσι αναγκαζεσαι να μπεις στον σωστο δρομο, οπως ανεφερες, και να βελτιωθεις και συνολικα. Ουυυφ πολυ μπλα μπλα (λόγω ταυτισης)
Ισχύει! Ακριβώς επειδή είναι τόσο βασικά, νομίζουμε συχνά ότι δεν είναι τόσο σημαντικά και ψάχνουμε για το πιο πρόσφατο χακ... Και όντως το να ξεκινάς στα 27-28 απαιτεί τελείως διαφορετική προσέγγιση σε σχέση με το να ξεκινάς ως παιδί. Τα comp kids κάνουν ό,τι θέλουν και δεν τραυματίζονται χαχα
Amazing video as always!
Thank you! And thanks for your continued support of the channel, it means a lot!
Inspired me to re read the book!
Ah great! I actually did get more out of it the second time I read it
Nice! Very smartly explained
Thank you! I'm glad you liked it!
Climb to increase your climbing technique
Agreed 😁
do you think the book can be helpful for someone starting out ?
I do, with a small caveat: It can be a little bit overwhelming with the amount of exercises it includes. I'd say to spend most of your time trying to climb with as much focus as possible, and then potentially choose one exercise per session and play around with it. You will get more value out of the book as you progress further
Great video ! Could you review "Vertical mind" or "The rock warrior's way"?! 🙏😊
Thanks! Sure! I've already read the Rock Warrior's way and I definitely think there are useful takeaways. I haven't read Vertical Mind yet, but I'll add it to my list!
Do you think I should start posting my climbing vids? I have a whole gallery full rn lol
Sure!
I really like your style of video dude Between the really practical advice in the other videos and this one with the more general outlook on climbing, I feel they are going to resonate with a lot of people Especially this one, really down to earth in spite of the broad topic Congrats, and thanks!
Thank you for this feedback, it's really great to hear! And, indeed, you've called it exactly right, going forward I'm planning to make a mix of practical and conceptual videos. Both interest me, and hopefully other people as well
I just wanted to thank you for this video. I've only been bouldering for a little less than a year, and as I learn, I’m constantly revising my training routine-either to avoid common pitfalls or to improve on newly exposed weaknesses. In my line of work, those who know how to ask the right questions tend to make the most progress. Your video doesn’t directly promote any specific training method, but instead, it outlines important questions I’ve been struggling to organize. It really helps.
Amazing! I'm glad you found it helpful! Just out of curiosity, what's your line of work that requires asking the right questions?
Such good advice!
Glad you thought so!
Just for fun, the phrase "No free lunches" has its roots in 19th-century American saloons, where bars would offer a "free lunch" to attract customers. The catch? The food was free only if you bought a drink-so, in reality, you always paid in some way. And the food was salty, so you ended up drinking more 😂Economists later adopted the phrase to highlight that everything comes with a cost, even if it's not obvious.
going to try this tomorrow. im currently doing 80 pull ups a day for a fundraiser which takes me 30mins with rest inbetween sets of 8-13.
Damn, that's many pullups. Is that for an entire month? You're gonna crush this challenge for sure
@theoamvr Thank you man no its actually up until February or mid January. I'm raising money so I can do Christian ministry abroad in Australia and I took the challenge of doing 10,000 pull-ups. I'm at 3000ish rn. for your 5min challenge I managed to do 42 pull ups! Happy with that for now lol. I have never seen 5 minutes go by so fast 😅
@@Striker498_ wow, that's so impressive seriously 🤯 good luck with it, sounds brutal. Good job on the challenge as well 💪💪
@theoamvr thank you man glad I found your channel btw I'm implementing a lot things I've learnt for my 1 arm pull up and climbing in general. Yeah it is brutal but mainly on my skin lol. my hands are destroyed rn 😅
That's great to hear and good luck with your future progress! Ah, I know, my hands were destroyed too after the challenge haha
Deadass V3 in my gym
@@SKRRRR393 😂 not v2??
Road of ants?
@@creiziklu yes!
Great stuff Theo Hilarious intro and perfect timing. I am heading for a climbing session now and this is a perfect way to change up my warm up routine!
Thank you for the kind words! I hope it helped you have a better session! 💪
You should definitely do a full oap when making a tutorial video. Even in some of your progressive exercises, you stop at about 3/4 of the way up, which is not ideal for demonstration. The last part that you're leaving out is definitely the hardest and holding the lock-off at the top should be the end position. Even in your isolated lock-offs you don't hold the true top position, but about the middle position. I recommend you try ring-one-arm-chin-ups to test if you can really pull yourself up with one arm, because that way it's easier to "feel" when you reach the final lock-off position. You still look really strong on the bottom half of the oap, so with a bit of training on the top half you should get really good at oaps rather quickly. For practicing the top part, I recommend either holding the (true) top position, or using a resistance band to do 3-5 full reps. A resistance band is good for that as it helps you less at the top than the bottom, because the band contracts as you pull up.
Thanks for taking the time to write such detailed feedback. It's true that in my little "gimmick" intro I didn't go all the way up and didn't really hold it, because I got fried from doing multiple takes of it haha It's strange, but actually the bottom part of the oap is the hardest for me. For the left arm for example, that's where I get stuck, but if I start a little engaged, then the rest is no problem. But I think it varies for different people. But your point about the band helping with training the top position is definitely valid, it certainly provides less help up high
My guess is 53!
@@alexamvrosiadis3700 very close!
80 for u , 25 for me :)
@@vincentsimonis2316 haha very generous of you, but I'd need to train much more for that!
judging by your first I'd recommend lowering the weight and doing your 3 rep sets with a pause at the bottom for your deadlift. just an opinion tho 👍
Thanks for the feedback. And you're right, I have been thinking the exact same thing, to incorporate an explicit pause in my deadlifts too 👍
thanks man this will hopefully help my 1 arm pull ups
I hope so too! If you get it, come back to let me know!💪
Thanks for the training tips!
Thankyou
Amazing. I just watched all your videos. Straight to the point. Solid advice! Please keep this up!
Aw, thank you! That's nice to hear!
Thanks for the information, you just got a Like and Subscribe from me. If you can make like a training regiment with progression for like a month video it would be amazing.
Ah, cool idea, thank you! I can try to do that for sure, even though it will then need to be adapted to each person's level
Bravo 👏
Good stuff man!
Good, quick, simple explanation. Very nice 👍
Thank you, that's what I aimed for!
I only just realised a new channel! Love the production quality of the video!
Thank you so much, it means a lot!
🙏
Nice climb
Yeah, I enjoyed it as well!
Molodec!!! 👌
beast
🤭 👏👏
🖐️
👍
what’s the grade on this? looks like v5 or so
@@Saurusss my current gym doesn't grade the problems anymore, but I'd agree with you. Probably a bit softer for the tall even (because they don't have to cut for the last move)
@@theoamvr i like the dynamic a lot though, i’d probably do the problem like that anyhow. a lot more elegant and difficult.
@@Saurusss agreed, and requires much more precision too
👌 👏👏
Cool!
@@alexamvrosiadis3700 you recorded this hehe!
This training has to many ups and downs for me 😅
Haha definitely! It's not something that I'd choose if I had access to hills (like I do now e.g.). But if you have some nice music/podcast/audiobook, you can get into a rhythm
Ja genau
Glad you liked it (as far as I can tell 😅). Machst du auch muscle-ups?
Sweet moves. Love that you didn't pick whatever the algorithm song of the month is.
Thanks haha, I wouldn't even know what the "algorithm" wants 🤷🏽♂️ it probably also wouldn't be my kind of music 😅
Did you know? A man’s leg broke into two pieces here! Hahahaha its really safe! Lol
@@probloxizza oh wow! I didn't know, and it's lucky I didn't know because I would have been scared shitless
I'm no weight lifter but my brother is, keep that ass down and back straight!
👍
great! you can do more💪